What NOT to do when veneering

[1BigBore]

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On 5/10/2005 10:11:35 AM Olorin wrote:

Wow.

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My word(s) Exactly. I love the face frame! I must remember that idea.

1BB

[Yesfan70]

(like Frank Barone..)

"Holy Crap" Those look very nice Cueman!

[cueman]

See the thread 'Bubinga La Scala's' in 'Updates and Modifications' to see the finished (almost) product

[arfz28]

You have done one fine job on those la scalas. Very nice work.

[texican58]

That's too much, tremendous, awesome, what a job!!!

Cueman, you rock! I dare you to advertise 'em. They'll easily bring $1600 - $2000.

I, too, will be up considering something similar. Out of curiousity, do you have to disassemble the cabinets to do this project? If not, how do you get the exact dimensions for the veneer?

I'm lost as to where I would start on such a project.

Meanwhile, I finally got my Walnut veneer from CertainlyWood.com. Before I screw this up, what cement should I be using?

Contact Cement?

Titebond II?

etc?

Mitch

[cueman]

I did not disassemble the cabinets, no. You simply measure the veneer and cut to size. Give yourself an extra inch or so. On the inside pieces, like the doghouse roof, you need to measure and cut it exact. I used contact cement. It is not the right stuff for raw veneer. Is your veneer paper backed? I think contact cement is right for that. Wood glue wood be best for raw veneer, I think. Heck I don't know.

[Dylanl]

Any backed veneers are good with contact. Tightbond glue types are good for raw wood veneers.

[BS Button]

Could you do some Bubinga "Cornscala's"?

[cueman]

Who, me?

[Tom Mobley]

I could do that for you. That stuff is not cheap though. come to think of it, neither am I. I'd recommend using the baltic birch to build the cabinets, use veneer over that. The baltic birch is sonically dead compared to regular plywood and much stronger. The inner plys are birch, whereas regular hardwood plywood is just softwood with hardwood face veneer.

See this thread

for my Belle built in mahogany to match my '60 Khorns. Turned out pretty good, if I do say so myself.

[texican58]

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On 5/20/2005 4:55:14 PM cueman wrote:

I did not disassemble the cabinets, no. You simply measure the veneer and cut to size. Give yourself an extra inch or so. On the inside pieces, like the doghouse roof, you need to measure and cut it exact. I used contact cement. It is not the right stuff for raw veneer. Is your veneer paper backed? I think contact cement is right for that. Wood glue wood be best for raw veneer, I think. Heck I don't know.

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I'm planning to use the Titebond glue. My veneer is raw (no paper backing).

I'll post pics as this project moves forward.

Thanks...mitch

[Rockets]

Can I ask a dumb questiion? I've never worked with veneer before, but am planning on it. There seems to be a problem with seams pulling apart (sometimes) when using the Titebond method. I'm thinking the cause is the heat of the iron is evaporating the moisture from the veneer. If this is true...could one not pre-iron/pre-shrink the veneer??

Like I said, I have no experience in this...