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K-Horn False Corner


Mick Bell

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On 7/6/2005 6:56:27 PM Mick Bell wrote:

Anyone know what the dimensions of a K-Horn false corner should be??

Mick
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You are opening a can of worms. The Dope from Hope has a plan design that utilized standard 4' wide plywood. It is now the gospel that false corners must be 4' wide on the outside (and a cooresponding 44" wide on the inside if 2x4's are used per the instructions). This may or may not be true. I built a set that is less than 4' long and I am happy and my wife tolerates them (please note that she says that my Belle's are big and ugly). I think that the 4' dimension was chosen because wood comes in 4' wide sheets. However, because I have never heard a set of K horns built with 4' corners, I cannot comment on the advantage. The one thing that everyone seems to agree on is that simply enclosing the open portion of the back will cause a sharp rolloff below 100hz.

Do a search on False Corners on this site. Dean built a really nice set and there is a long thread on them. I typically follow Dean's advice and have been happy every time that I have done so (although I ignited a feud about the Behringer DEQ 2496).

Chris

PS: Now that I mention the DEQ, I should run a pink noise check and measure the low end response of my False Corner (I like to call them True Corner) design.

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Ideally you'd have 40 inch (inner) sides, which will take you out even to the front of the Khorn, by 39 inches high. The height need only be as tall as the bass bin.

Chris is absolutely correct, the 4-foot thing was simply to correspond with plywood dimensions and a nice easy figure to deal with.

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On 7/6/2005 10:32:26 PM Mick Bell wrote:

Chris and Parrot: Thanks. I remember the subject being discussed in "Dope from Hope" but I didn't remember the specifics.

Mick

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Mick,

I did some measuring with a mike and an RTA. I am getting response down to 40 hz and below. The signal rolls off below 40hz, but so does the source (I did not try it with pink noise, my wife was getting annoyed). I adjusted the bass up about 5 db on my Behringer EQ and even with a Teac 7000 (30 wpc) the bass can be felt in my chest. The bass has a huge amount of slam with my QSC 1202 amp.

If you cut the false corners off before the front of the speaker, they can look pretty nice (at least in my opinion). Check out a thread that I started entitled "False Corners (I like to think of them as truse corners)" in the two channel forum -typo in the name.

I fabricated grills for the front of mine. The final look is kind of a cross between a K Horn and Jubilee. I really love the way that they look now and I can place them anywhere like a normal speaker. I researched false corners like crazy before building mine and have not been dissapointed.

Chris

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Funny, I never noticed before, and I don't think anyone else has commented on it either, but the picture in Dope From Hope of the finished fales corner does *not* correspond with the measurements given on the left diagram!

If you trace a line across the front of the Khorns and continue, a 40-inch (inner) side will hit the line. I estimate both sheets in the DFH photo to be only about 32 inches!

As a matter of fact, the dimensions in the photo look very similar to TigerwoodKhorns dimensions (although not anywhere near as good looking). TigerwoodKhorns doesn't have the same exact design, though, doesn't have the 4-inch thick dual layer walls.

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I'm presently building a false corner myself. My Khorns will be around 19 ft apart by the time everything is done. Has anyone here use a 3 inch foam to seal the back of the Khorns. I'm thinking of getting a 3 inch foam 8 ft. by 4 ft. from a bed manufacturer.1.gif I will fold it right up the corner and slide the khorns against it1.gif Would this idea work or a pipe insulation is just s good??9.gif

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On 7/7/2005 10:01:44 AM Parrot wrote:

Funny, I never noticed before, and I don't think anyone else has commented on it either, but the picture in Dope From Hope of the finished fales corner does *not* correspond with the measurements given on the left diagram!

If you trace a line across the front of the Khorns and continue, a 40-inch (inner) side will hit the line. I estimate both sheets in the DFH photo to be only about 32 inches!----------------

Parrot,

You have a great eye there! I never noticed that either. I think that I used about 35 inches on the inside but cannot remember. The way that I determined the length was the width of the plank of tigerwood that I have that I used to "cap" the top of the horn.

I knew that I wanted the front grilles to angle back a little, so I extended the rear as far as I could with the board and it all fell into place. Even if the plank that I had was wider, I would have still angled the grills back a little. I think that it gives them a sleeker look.

If you check out the AES paper on the Jubilee design, they show a top plate for the K Horn that angles back at 45 degrees (or 135 depending on your perspective). I came farther forward, but "risked it" and did not come all the way forward to the front of the bass bin. Luckily, iy worked.

Chris

post-10861-13819267133056_thumb.jpg

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Hello Raptorman and Mick

re: use of pipe foam

http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=67901&sessionID={3BE7C389-DE43-450C-9878-E386C7E418B6}

Try this link. It shows an alternative false corner (that was heavily copied from others) and also has pics on how to attach the pipe foam. I hope it is helpful.

Good Luck,

-Tom

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********************************************************************

Bad idea. You don't want foam-absorbing "walls" behind your Khorns. You want just a little strip of fairly sturdy foam to seal the tailboard tightly.

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Good. I just save myself 100.00 can. That's how much they want for the foams 50.00 each. Thanks Parrot.

2.gif

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Seems to me that if I was going to build a false corner it would be a good idea and would also had to the integrety/strength of the corner if a person just added a board across the back corner that would match the width of the tailboard and basically be in parallel with the tail board and would thus seal up the empty space thats behind the tail board and a regular corner. This way there would be no worry about seals.

mike1.gif

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Mark, Thanks for for helping me out on the link (My brain was not engaged)

I'll try again.....

Hello Raptorman and Mick

re: use of pipe foam

Try this link. It shows an alternative false corner (that was heavily copied from others) and also has pics on how to attach the pipe foam. I hope it is helpful.

http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=63165

By the way, simply screwing wood panels to the sides is not sufficient. At first glance it seems like a good idea; however, there will be problems. 1) attaching it to the cabinets will cause some irreversible damage, 2) it needs to be fairly sturdy and massive so that it does not vibrate. An approximation of that strategy had been done (I believe) for some theater systems. However for audio at home you really do need some version of a false corner.

Good Luck,

-Tom

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I gotta say that it doesn't get any better than this (I forget whose this is from the forum, but this is something!):

2channelcomponents914.jpg

I drool everytime I see this; I even saved a copy! Technically speaking, there is no sonic reason that the false corner needs to be any taller than the bass bin.

As you can see from the pic, any taller and it would actually be "in the way" visually...

DM2.gif

post-13458-13819267133736_thumb.jpg

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On 7/7/2005 5:00:13 PM D-MAN wrote:

I gotta say that it doesn't get any better than this (I forget whose this is from the forum, but this is something!):

2channelcomponents914.jpg

I drool everytime I see this; I even saved a copy! Technically speaking, there is no sonic reason that the false corner needs to be any taller than the bass bin.

As you can see from the pic, any taller and it would actually be "in the way" visually...

DM
2.gif
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Wow!! What finish is that?

Chris

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On 7/7/2005 4:30:20 PM PrestonTom wrote:

Try this link. It shows an alternative false corner (that was heavily copied from others) and also has pics on how to attach the pipe foam. I hope it is helpful.

By the way, simply screwing wood panels to the sides is not sufficient. At first glance it seems like a good idea; however, there will be problems. 1) attaching it to the cabinets will cause some irreversible damage, 2) it needs to be fairly sturdy and massive so that it does not vibrate. An approximation of that strategy had been done (I believe) for some theater systems. However for audio at home you really do need some version of a false corner.

Good Luck,

-Tom

Love it! Thanks! I have to build something later this summer and that looks good. For now, I'm using a solid pine table-top from IKEA (about 1.5" thick). It covers just about the full height of the speaker (probably 48") and extends a little past the KHorn edge. If I made one it would be a little longer on that axis. It doesn't vibrate. It's thick enough. But a more permanent and nicer looking solution is required. Your idea works for me!

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