jcmjrt Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 I remember seeing a post with pics and info about using a "new" method to veneer. As I remember, it was titebond glue maybe yellow glue (?) and an iron to melt/set the glue. Does anyone have a link to what I'm talking about? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duke Spinner Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 make sure to get the veneer hot enuff .... it may not adhere in spots Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marting Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 I don't have a link for you but I found an article in the Oct 1994 (#108) issue of Fine Woodworking. I got it from our library. Haven't had a chance to delve into it yet. You're public library might have a copy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BS Button Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 Go to Oakwoodveneer.com. Lots of advice in there. I'm getting buying some veneer tomorrow and still haven't settled on the method to attach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcmjrt Posted August 2, 2005 Author Share Posted August 2, 2005 Thanks guys. The one thing that I know that I don't want to use is contact cement. It dries and tears the veneer apart. YMMV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
popbumper Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 Contact cement applied properly is a VERY sound way of attaching veneer. Look at the Cornwall cabs I just did in the "Upgrades and Modifications" section, under the thread "Cornwall cab rebuild revisited". I had NO problems with this method at all, and/or the veneer. It turned out beautifully. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcmjrt Posted August 3, 2005 Author Share Posted August 3, 2005 Pop, as I said YMMV, but that's not my experience and when talking to someone who was supposedly expert on veneer, he said that one of the problems with contact cement is tearing apart the veneer because it contracts when it dries. I'm sure it doesn't happen every time or noone would use the method but it does happen. If I wanted to get into veneering big time, I'd have to get a vacuum press and use those materials but I'm not at that point yet so I'm just going to try a different method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJkizak Posted August 3, 2005 Share Posted August 3, 2005 I have never heard of that problem with veneer. I would not worry about that at all. All veneers are installed with the typical rubber cement including Formica. Then there is the "iron on hot glue method" which I used on the K-horns and Cornwall and it worked just fine but it is very difficult to apply evenly. You have to drag/pressure a clean white rag behind the iron to keep the stuff from popping back up prior to it cooling down. If you try to reheat a certain area you will be in big trouble. Sometimes I have ripped off three sections in a row before I was satisfied, and that gets expensive. The surface also has to be perfectly flat. Sometimes the veneer (wood) has rounded out soft surface areas in between the hard grain places and if you block sand it too much to even them out you go through the wood and hit the backing. Been there, done that. If the glue is not applied evenly the humps and waves will show up nicely. If I had to do it again I would use Formica or a veneer at least 1/8" thick or thicker. Even Veneered plywood only has the veneer about 1/32" thick (top layer) and you have to be carefull not to sand through it. The iron on stuff did turn out well though but it was a lot of work. If you use the Minwax stain and the polyurethane clear you can buff the clear like a mirror after wet sanding with 1200 grit paper using a foam 8" buffer pad on a body grinder with a "clicky on/off trigger finger". Learned that after painting the 1969 Corvette with polyurethane basecoat/clearcoat. JJK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BS Button Posted August 3, 2005 Share Posted August 3, 2005 In response to jcmjrt: I am no expert here, but I will soon be veneering with the iron on (Titebond II) method. Today I was in a specialized woodworking shop givin 'em the business, with all of our concerns. The manager did say that shrinkage is a problem with contact cement, but it can also be a problem with iron on, if you do not let the adhesive set long enough. That setting time is also the iron on's advantage, because and as he stated, the shrinkage is done after the adhesive dries...then you activate it with heat. In addition, these problems are magnified greatly when using a non-backed veneer. Paper is a fiber, and these so called paper backed veneers are actually fiber backed, quite strong, and will greatly resist splitting. I've also heard that some finishes (other than oil and poly)can interact with some veneering methods and ruin a project. For finishing, I'm hearing great things about a company called "General Finishes" (you cannot get it at the big box stores) and right now, I've got a can of their wipe on "Salad Bowl Finish". Like oil and lacquer it becomes part of the wood, with a tough outer coat, however. Tough enough for the dishwasher, kids wooden toys and cutting blocks. You control the sheen by the number of coats, wiped on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcmjrt Posted August 5, 2005 Author Share Posted August 5, 2005 It seems that every method has it's issues. Too bad there isn't a foolproof method because I could definitely use that I'm seriously looking at the iron on method (titebond) and may give that a try and see if I like those issues any more than the contact cement ones. I'll have to check out the backed veneer. Maybe that will help. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm Posted August 6, 2005 Share Posted August 6, 2005 Hmmm... I am not an "expert", but I have used contact cement with many kinds of veneer, including Brazillian Roseword, Santos Rosewood, Mahogany, Nara, Imbuya Burl, Ash, Walnut, Oak, etc. and never had the veneer tear because the contact cement shrank. And some of these veneers were awfully thin. Maybe I just have a better touch than your "expert". But then, I have never seen anyone else's work tear like this either. The only thing I have seen is seams and pre-existing cracks open up when they weren't properly glued and taped before applying the veneer to the substrate. And that can happen with any method. I have used most methods of veneering at one time or another, including wet glue which requires a veneer press. FWIW I found contact cement the easiest to master and the most convenient for most projects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted August 7, 2005 Share Posted August 7, 2005 I have to agree with Malcolm on this one. When applied to raw veneer the water in PVA glue upsets the moisture balance aquired when the veneer is allowed to sit a few days in it's intended envrionment. Even with overnight drying, the heat, cool, redrying process can and most likely will split raw veneer requiring the use of visable filler in the splits. I have had the best results with high solids contact cement. With adequate drying time allowed, I have had no problems with splitting or raising with 1/42" raw veneer on MOST of my projects, Klipschorns included. I have to reveneer my Heresys though. I think I got lazy in the surface preperation leaving areas of finish on the raw birch. Over time even contact cement loosened. especially at the edges. Paper backed veneer is very animinable to contact cement. Since it is the easiest method to use, there is little reason to attempt anything else. Especially anything which is water based like PVA glue. My experiences only. As always YMMV. Here are a couple of things to look at: The first is Greg928s4 's site where he shows his handiwork. www.dcchomes.com/Heresy.html Then there is this which shows before and after pick of my Khorns as well as more discussion on veneering: http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=43318 Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcmjrt Posted August 7, 2005 Author Share Posted August 7, 2005 Thanks for the info and links. Greg did a nice job on the speakers and detailing the project! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockets Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 This may be what you're looking for http://www.dcchomes.com/Heresy.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 I would recommend to any beginners out there to use NBL backed veneer with contact cement. It is relatively easy to do and will yeild very good results. I only had two complaints with it, which is why I moved on to raw veneer. I didn't like seeing the backer edges, and I didn't like how thin the actual wood was. Tapeease. When I get back into my shop this winter, I'll be trying the contact cement with raw wood veneer. It's good to hear that other forum members have had success with it. Raw wood veneer is much harder to work with, but I like working with real wood. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BS Button Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 I'm having some real good success with the iron on method and paper backed. Will post pics, soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.