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Beam damage: is this OK?


damonrpayne

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I would force the issue and have it repaired. For the amount of money

you have spent it would be wise to have it fixed. It may be ok for now

but what happens after the house settles. I would be concerned. Looking

at it, it would not take much for it to be removed and replaced with a

new block. It almost seems as if it may have been a defective block for

it to crumble like that. Have it replaced.

scooter

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Gee imagine what it'll do when the weight of the WHOLE HOUSE sits on that beam, do ya think the wimpy wall of the block or a little mortar will hold it then? I like JacksonBart's idea that there should be a pocket or lintel of sorts to spread that load over. (Lintel is like a 4-6 block long single solid block, used over window openings and the like, you probably have a few in your basement already.)

Are you kidding me? You have to pay to go to arbitratrion for something simple like this? These guys are idiots! Have they ever built a house before? Who is your building subcontracting the work to?

I feel for ya man.

Michael

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Around here... you NEVER see a beam supported on block wall like

that. The proper way if this is truly a loading bearing object

and not just a an add-on to quite bouncing floors... is to have a

support column poured all the way down to the footer!!!! The beam

rests on that. The alternative is a floor level poured

support (again joining the footer) that has a steel jack post that then

supports the beam. And of course there would be posts every 6-8

feet or specified by the beam support load specs.

I would not ***** about the busted up block... more importantly what is

the purpose of the beam... if carrying the load for walls supporting a

second story or other HEAVY objects... if it rests on your 4" poured

crawl space floor... you are gonna have some problems.

Call your local building inspector and have him review the intended

purpose and install of the beam. Also find out who makes the beam

and what its load carrying specs and support needs are.

Good Luck!!!

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I can't tell from those images what your load requirements will be, if your blocks are filled or hollow, or if they have a lintel beam to rest the beam on. For example, the top coarse on the second picture is filled.

- If the blocks are hollow... tell them that it'll bug the cr@p out of you if they leave it like that. Ask, nicely, if they can fill them up (at least the three surrounding cavities) with mortar and a rebar. A couple bags of mortar and rebar should cost well under 100$. Offer to supply the material if they don't realy want to do it.
- If they are already filled or there are lintel blocks across, a repair with some non-shrink structural grout should do.

This shouldn't be reason for arbitration... you got to try to work with them.
Rob
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RayoVac has it right.

Damon, first, my experience in construction is as a residential remodeler, not a builder. However my Father was a structural engineer and I do have some theoretical knowledge in this area. You might need to consult with your local building commission to see if they have details available on how this load should be carried in your area. Codes will vary from place to place, but the local code is the MINIMUM STANDARD. If it were my home, items such as this would be designed well above that standard.

Remember, all loads must eventually find the earth, ie the footers under the block walls. The block walls should not be set on a 4" slab itself. Generally, in our area, footers are poured first, then the walls built, then the floor is poured within the walls. This may vary in your area.

The roof weight bears down on walls and some interior walls and floor systems bear part of the house load also. I dare say that an I-beam of this size is carrying the ends of floor joists, so at least the weight of occupants, furniture and fixtures, floor system and interior walls is being carried by the beam. Possibly some of the roof and snow load if any interior walls in this area are load-bearing. This beam is only as strong as what supports it. Having it placed on crumbly concrete blocks and mortardoes not appear to be a viable solution.

I imagine that you might have asked for a larger beam so that no supporting posts would interfere with your HT area. That is fine SO LONG AS THERE IS AMPLE SUPPORT for the beam at both ends. This does not appear to be the case as the block wall wouldn't even support the weight of the beam itself. Block in that area should be reinforced with rebar, poured solid with concrete, and a lintel set along the top course of block to spread the weight along a wider section of wall.

Michael

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I will not have a pole in the middle of the room, note where the footings have been poured for the vertical beams. I paid a lot extra for my stronger beams (longer span without needing the vertical one) and my higher walls.

I went out and looked when I got off work today and the blocks do seem to be filled where the beams will rest. I called the city building inspector to look at it today, if he says its OK then its going to have to be OK.

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Oh, to answer Michael's comments:

Code here requires that the blocks are reinforced with steel bars all over the place; I'm no concrete dude but it looks to me like the damage to the wall was caused by "dropping" the beam, not just seating it there. My 2nd vertical support is not on the site yet, so whoever delivred the steal beam likely broke my wall.

I hear you guys, thanks for the advice, and I've got the appropriate people checking it. If they **** up my movie room I will cry, then sue, then cry some more, then sell this house, then embark on the greatest slander campaign the world has ever seen.

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Have them put rebar in that area, then fill those blocks, then let is set up for a couple of days minimum to gain strength before they CAREFULLY sit that beam in place.

You should be okay, it's just that these guys seem to be jacking around every step of the process. Lets hope the framers and drywall finishers are better grade.

Michael

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First off, the contractor should have constructed masonry pilasters at each end where they support the beam. Did he construct the pilasters? And what size are they (width and height)? How are they reinforced? Per code, the vertical reinf. in a pilaster must have ties, did he provided them?

Also, the contractor should have installed an steel embed for the beam to bear on. I don't see one, where is it, because it's required by code (ACI 530). The contractor will also have to place some non-shrink grout beneath the embed to provide a uniform bearing surface. Did the contractor provide any horizontal masonry joint reinforcing? Many crappy home building contractors will blow it off, and let it be your problem a few years down the road..... I could go on and on, but there's alot more information I'd need to know.

How deep are your basement walls, how much backfill will be placed against them? What is the typical vert. wall reinf. size and spacing? Were your wall foundations designed, or is he just doing it the way he's be building them for the past 20years....yadayadayada, typ. contractor.

What drainage previsions have been incorporated on the fill side of the wall? What is he going to use for waterproofing on the vertical face? What is he going to use for fill? Will you have a mud slab, you probably should if moisture is even the slightest concern. I could on, and on with this. What ever you do, don't rely on the city inspector, 99.999% of them suck. They don't even know what's required by code. Unless your home is built in CA, OR, WA, AZ, or MD odds are, your city inspector is a moron. Structural design is my specialty, my love, and my life.

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icon_post_show.gif From07-21-2005, 7:51 PM

colterphoto1 is not online. Last active: 9/5/2005 2:49:24 PM colterphoto1
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Bad omens all, get a new builder NOW. Just my .02.

Michael- I know just enough about building a home that I could never hire it done, I would KILL THEM ALL before it was done....


The 'House of Klipsch'

From my post 7/21/05. Sorry for your troubles.

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