michael hurd Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 Lol, when you have acres and acres of prime birch to cut, you can be self-sufficient for a long time. And you are right, they do pollute, and this is the reason that you just can't plunk one down beside your townhouse. [] But just think for a minute how many tonnes of polutants a coal-burning power plant produces? And the kilotonnes that major industry produces? [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonfyr Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 Most places have required catalytic converters on wood stoves for almost 30 years now - they don't need to be a problem! And the new high efficiency stoves are not![] Besides, I thought "Quietrock" was some new name for SET powered rock music...[] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 I have gas-fired boiler in my 1950's home. Chose the radient heat home (which is pretty rare around here) because it's quiet and comfortable. It's baseboards here, the little pump makes some noise, but much quieter than any forced air system (have that for A/C- HATE it). Had gravity fed hot water radiators in the country home I last lived in- beautiful warmth. MH, out in rural Indiana where I used to live, all the Amish neighbors went to those wood burning boiler systems. Don't know what trash they burned in theirs, but it created the most hideous smoke that drifted around my home all winter. It was one of the reasons I left that county. Maybe your's is cleaner burning or you're more remote, but having one of those like 300 feet from my home was horrid. Of course they had the massive diesel generator too- just another anger for me to drag around. If I ever build new, It'll have infloor radient heat, it's the best. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picky Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 I think you will find that a more significant source of sound transmission contributing to your ambient noisefloor is actually via the ductwork for your HVAC system then via the walls! As usual, another excellent point, dragofyr: I'd actually considered this in my room's design. In addition to adding 90-degree bends (wherever I was able) mentioned by my pal, Michael Hurd, I encased my ductwork in soffets made of 2x4 framing and covered by a layer each of the GAF membrane, 1/2" Homasote and 1/2" Drywall. The result: what ducts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedball Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 Shameless picture of the theatrical effect not having a typical door handle adds to going into the room.... That is one beautiful piece of door hardware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bimmeup Posted November 8, 2005 Author Share Posted November 8, 2005 Hey everyone, it's me Bimmeup, the one who started the thread. I guess this turned out to be an exciting thread afterall and very informative. As for the Quietrock use in my home theatre, I did decide to use it since I'm in the construction phase and it seemed cost effective to me to have a drywall replacement than to put the cost of labor into resilient channels and layering the room with all sorts of other things. And yes, in new construction, the Quietrock is used in place of drywall and is not layered over existing drywall unless you have an existing room where you want to use it! As for me, I wanted the room to be as quiet as possible both from inside and out since I have a family of 5 kids! My main goal is to be able to have friends over and go into the theatre to "Rock Out" until whatever time I want and not worry about waking up my wife and kids who are upstairs. And after researching every method that's out there, it seemed to me (and I could be wrong) that Quietsolutions was the best "tested" method out there. It also seemed to me that a lot of companies are out there trying to sell their products as sound deadening and sound absorbing, but just don't have any testing to back it up. So, in a nutshell, I'm giving it a go! I'll also let you know what I think when it's up and running in about a year from now! And hey PICKY, it's me Matt from Arizona. I probably should have put that on my signature from the getgo!!! Anyhow, I'm out Bimmeup Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted White Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Consider double 5/8" drywall and a field application of damping compound. The resulting wall / ceiling will be more massive and less than 1/2 the cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artto Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Essentially, the Quietrock is used in place of drywall and if used according to the spec sheet, can have a STC rating of as high as 80. Matt STC ratings are usually given at various frequencies. What really matters is how well it blocks at the lowest frequencies and most STC rating don't go down low enough and the ratings also depend on how they measured it. Appropriate construction principals still apply and are your first best defense against sound transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 STC is a single number and represents an average reduction measured at several frequencies between 125Hz and up to about 4kHz (I forget if it is 4 or 8kHz). The notion of an STC rating of 80 for this type of product is fanciful at best. For practical reasons, at low frequencies you will probably need to rely on adding mass (double sheets of drywall), staggered stud construction (look it up) or a layer of green glue sandwiched between two layers of drywall (as mentioned above), or limp mass loading (essentially a rubber sheet between the studs and drywall). As with most things, proper implementation of these techniques is critical. For instance, if you starting cutting into the material for recessed lighting, then you have just wasted a great deal of money. Let me underscore Art's comment: getting good attenuation (or absorption for that matter) at the lower freqeuncies is especially difficult Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted White Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Agreed. The biggest driver here is mass. The problem with factory-damped drywall is it's a lot of $$ relative to the final mass. Field-damped drywall uses double 5/8" resulting in a much less expensive and more massive result. Field apply for higher performance at a lower cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 We are probably in agreement. But let's be clear for others. Doubling the mass (eg double sheets of drywall) is very effective for attenuating sound transmission at higher frequencies. It is less effective at lower frequencies. However, a layer of green glue between the sheets of drywall (it is an adhesive that remains flexible, similar to sub-floor adhesive) will provide some dampening. It is this dampening that further helps minimizing sound transmission at the lower frequencies (in addition to the increased mass). Using this technique for dampening (and there are others also) also helps to absorb low frequencies (similar to a bass trapping). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted White Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Decoupling the large mass is key for LF isolation. The primary low frequency resonance point of the new partition must be significantly below the potential sound waves it will encounter in order to have a shot at containing them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_benjammin Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 Am I the only one that noticed this was a 6+ year dead thread that got bumped by a bot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted White Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 I later noticed this, but by then there were already other replies... I did report that post as well as another as SPAM, but no reaction from mods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 Am I the only one that noticed this was a 6+ year dead thread that got bumped by a bot? Ya the only time a bot is good. But I must ask while I am here, My ht room mainly has concrete walls so for sound proofing through them is not a big issue. But sound proofing through the celling to the upstairs is a issue. I was planing on use 5/8 drywall, but I was looking at other things I can add that will help as well, such as adding a rubber membrane, or even using some of that green glue everyone has been talking about on the rafters that the 5/8 drywall will attach to. I will have to check prices but it might be more cost effective to add the second layer of 5/8 drywall then to use a rubber membrane. I all ready priced out the green glue so that isn't a extra cost. But I was told just adding any r value insulation will make a dramatic deference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted White Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 Membrane would be used on top of the floor, not from below Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 So just going with double layers of sheet rock with green glue would be best. Is there anything that can be added In the rafters between the floor and celling, that would help such as fiberglass insulation or something of the sort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted White Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 If you have impact noise, you might consider the following: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 wow did you draw that up, I take it the green damping material is green glue, what is the dyrwall furring channel oh wait the furring channel would be like furring strips to attach the drywall to. I have seen the isolation clips that makes since. I would think you would need a solid layer of the green glue so would/could you but a 5 gallon bucket with a roller to apply. The hardest part would be to install the strips of drywall between the rafters over all the duct work, but is a very good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted White Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 This is a very popular solution because it's very comprehensive. You damp the subfloor where the vibration starts. You would not use a roller, and instead use a Speedload. Drywall strips is pretty fast if you leave the drywall strips 1/4" narrower than the joist opening. They fit right up there quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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