Cornwall 511B "voice of the Corn"[:)]

[travisc]

ok guys bid all you want I found a pair.

Bob I will want those modded B's but it is going to have to wait, I got rent this week.

[travisc]

Yes, I am going to need some plumbers caps to cap the 600's off, what diameter and thread pitch is the horn?

[BEC]

The thread is 1 3/8 18. It may be pretty hard to find a plug to fit that.

Bob Crites

[J.4knee]

I just swapped in a set of 511B's in my main La Scala's. I am gong baffle-less at the moment and they are sitting on top with the K400 still screwed inplace. I am also using the K55M drivers. So far I am impressed they are noticeably more detailed than the K400 to me. I have not done any tap adjustments in my networks yet they don't seem to need it. There seems to be a better definition b/t the mid range and bass, seems kind of like the 511 horn rolls off steeper than the K400 does. Not sure if it does but it sounds that way.

[Duke Spinner]

You ....

Traitor ....[]

[tofu]

so, how do you plan on integrating them into the scalas? going to cut the hole larger? or are you going to make a seperate box for it and the tweeter ontop (because i'm assuming you'd want the tweeter higher than the squawker)

[J.4knee]

You ....

Traitor ....[]

LOL Yeah I am thinking about changing my first name to Benedict.

[J.4knee]

so, how do you plan on integrating them into the scalas? going to cut the hole larger? or are you going to make a seperate box for it and the tweeter ontop (because i'm assuming you'd want the tweeter higher than the squawker)

Right now I am running a set of prototype tweeters inside the LS cabinet where the K77's mount, I actually like it that way I do not see any special benefit to placing the tweeter on top at this point. These tweeters seem to be slightly less efficient but noticeably cleaner. I may have to hook up the K77's and do a direct comparison and then hook up the K55M driver to the K400's and run each tweeter to get a good evaluation of them. As far as the 511b's go I have a strong feeling they are going to be a permanent change once I get done testing. I may retract my earlier statement about not needing to adjust the taps in my ALKs, that may become necessary in the long run but for now I am leaving them as is.

[travisc]

The thread is 1 3/8 18. It may be pretty hard to find a plug to fit that. Bob Crites

Then I shall make them

Thanks again Bob

I was wondering if a paint job by a qualified auto body guy would be depremental to the sound of these, what should I take into consideration?

What are peoples thoughts about the welds and the silicone mod?

[sfogg]

"What are peoples thoughts about the welds and the silicone mod?"

If you are going to be bolting the 511Bs to a baffle don't worry about

doing the above mod. Some plumbers putty in one of the insides of the

'lips' really quiets them down. Compared to a factory modded unit in

free space there is a big difference in ringing. But when bolted down

with the plumbers putty there is very little difference.

Shawn

[sfogg]

"so, how do you plan on integrating them into the scalas? going to cut the hole larger?"

The 511B will fit in the top half of a LaScala but won't leave any room

for a tweeter so if you stay three way the tweeter would need to be

mounted up top in a separate box. Mounted in the top the 511B looks

like it was made for the LaScala. *Big* improvement over the K400. With

the original drivers I needed to lower the squawkers level somewhat

using the ALK Type A crossover.

Details on the cuts needed for the 511 are here:

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/420134/ShowPost.aspx

Shawn

[J.4knee]

"What are peoples thoughts about the welds and the silicone mod?"

If you are going to be bolting the 511Bs to a baffle don't worry about doing the above mod. Some plumbers putty in one of the insides of the 'lips' really quiets them down. Compared to a factory modded unit in free space there is a big difference in ringing. But when bolted down with the plumbers putty there is very little difference.

Shawn

What levels are you driving that you hear teh ringing? Mine are just sitting on top of my La Scala's in free space essentially and I notice no ringing. One thing is for sure you get a lot more clarity and detail from 511b than the K400.

[J.4knee]

Here is an other thought for improving the CW's midrange and maybe a better fit. The 811b only I am not sure how low it will go. If it will drop to 650 Hz it may work with a crossover mod. Has anyone (namely AL K) tested/plotted it's range?

[tofu]

"so, how do you plan on integrating them into the scalas? going to cut the hole larger?"

The 511B will fit in the top half of a LaScala but won't leave any room

for a tweeter so if you stay three way the tweeter would need to be

mounted up top in a separate box. Mounted in the top the 511B looks

like it was made for the LaScala. *Big* improvement over the K400. With

the original drivers I needed to lower the squawkers level somewhat

using the ALK Type A crossover.

Details on the cuts needed for the 511 are here:

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/420134/ShowPost.aspx

Shawn

hey, that looks good. i didn't know they would mount from the front. i figured i'd screw up horribly since i'm really terrible making perfectly straight lines with my jigsaw, and i don't own a router. i see it doesnt need to be PERFECT since that big metal plate around the horn is going to cover everything.

what are those four slots for? i'm assuming i could just use my jigsaw to make those too, and i don't need a router.

i'm putting together ALK networks once my parts arrive, so i guess i'd stick with a three way version or else i'd feel my networks were a waste. i guess it would be okay to use the stock k55 in the 511b and use the k77 tweeter in a little box ontop of my speaker to preserve the three-way orientation.

unless of course there is a way to easily/cheaply convert an ALK to a two-way crossover.

i figure there's no harm in modifying my speakers, as long as i don't permanently screw them up of course.

[tofu]

oh my, didn't realize how inexpensive the 511b's were. makes this even more interesting

[sfogg]

"What levels are you driving that you hear teh ringing?"

With the 511Bs in the LaScalas and no damping I could clap my hands

from the other side of the room and set a horn to ringing. A little

plumbers putty on the inside of one of the lips got rid of it. Don't

bother with it anywhere else on the horn though... didn't see

to make a difference there.

Shawn

[sfogg]

"what are those four slots for? i'm assuming i could just use my jigsaw to make those too, and i don't need a router."

Sure, you could cut them with a jigsaw. When you get a 511 you will

understand what they are for... it has four slots like that on the back

of the horn.... you need to make them in the wood so the 511 will fit.

Your cuts don't have to be very precise as they will be hidden by the

511 itself. The most important ones are the two bottom slots. Just keep

their relative height the same as the horn will rest on them till you

mount it. If you have them level it makes the horn level and easier to

mount it.

Shawn

[TRiv]

travisc,

Painting them would'nt change the sound at all unless the paint was

something like non-skid paint, even then probably not much. I have

thought about painting them too, and I used to do custom car painting

and collision repair/painting some time ago, and I am not sure how

difficult it would be, at least to my standards, to get a good even

finish going down the throat of the 511's. Painting these is going to

be like painting the side strakes of a Ferrari Testarossa without

taking the strakes out, could be difficult. I don't know the thread,

but a recent one here, someone had pics of some exotic looking salad

bowl horn that was painted some tone of maroon/stawberry pearl color

that was just wow ! in the looks dept. That particular horn didn't look

to hard to get paint down the throat, it was more open. I might give it

a try if I could find a damaged horn to experiment with, still think

that even with base/clear coat using a gravity feed gun may not get

paint in there to look even.

Another possibility may be powder coating, will have to check with

someone who does this, there may be a better chance this could work,

though colors will be more limited than auto paint, but there are many

colors available.

Getting these horns to look more appealing is

a challange if you or wife/girlfriend don't want that look in your

home, I am lucky, like them as is, and fiance does'nt care, so I will

try to make them more something, just not sure at this point, don't

really want them to look like giant boxes, so leaving the 511's exposed

to us is fine ( plus it makes it impossible for nik naks, water

dripping plants, beer cans, etc. from being on top of cabinets!) Like I

posted earlier, I turned the Cornwall cabinets upside down, and mounted

the 511's to plywood, then set them on the factory risers which are now

at the top of the speakers (still factory attached), and like this, the

511's look like they are supposed to be there, they are the same width

as the risers. First and formost though, this was done for sound, to me

anyway, there seemed to be a hole in the sound when the 511 was just on

top of the cabinets in standard orientation, so I flipped them, this

puts the bass ports right below the 511's, I like it! and at this point

I would'nt even consider mounting the 511's inside the cabinets, there

is a way, but the sound is more off the floor, big, and life like!

especially if you like being near or in the front row of a performance!

Anyone else try to paint these? not just flat black either, something more exotic in color?

[IB Slammin]

............."there seemed to be a hole in the sound when the 511 was just on top of the cabinets in standard orientation, so I flipped them, this puts the bass ports right below the 511's, I like it!"...................

TRiv,

Interesting.......Could you post a photo?

I always felt that the ports should be coupled to the floor plane, or in a "dbb" application, to fire down the side-wall length.

Regards,

Terry

[travisc]

Terry,

I appreciate the input so far. I will let you know when all my ducks are in a row. 511b's ship tomorrow and the adaptors shipped today.

Shawn,

thanks for the tips on the ringing. and the link, those Lascala look like they were meant to have the 511b's

TRiv,

I will see what the options are when I talk to the painter. I have seen some of his work, and its impressive. I think they will be a cream color to match the painted sections of my Corns.

very excited, have a feeling this mod is going to be a huge improvement over the 600 horn