rplace Posted December 27, 2005 Share Posted December 27, 2005 I recently purchased a set of DeanGs crossover for my AK-2 equipped Khorns. In order to swap them out I needed to unsolder, desolder (what ever the correct term is) my tweeter and squawker from the old AK-2 network. They come from the factory hard wired with out nice terminal strips like my Belle and Heresies have.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> For my own education and general messing around I would like to do two things with my old AK-2 networks.1 replace the old, outdated caps with new, fresh ones of the correct values. 2 install a terminal strip so they can easily be swapped in and out of my khorns. I pretty much know nothing about crossovers and electronics overall. I do have a soldering iron and in general I am pretty handy. Can any of you out there take a look at the pix of my AK-2s and tell me what the various parts are (i.e. little black boxes, white tube, rectangular metal things with windings of wire and black round things with windings of wire), what I should replace to bring them back to factory fresh condition and how to properly wire them with a terminal strip so the right signal goes to the tweeter, squawker and LF sections? I know Bob/Dean could do this for mebut I want to play around with them myself. If I break something I am really not out much other then my time. Thanks, Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rplace Posted December 27, 2005 Author Share Posted December 27, 2005 Another angle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rplace Posted December 27, 2005 Author Share Posted December 27, 2005 3rd and final picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted December 27, 2005 Share Posted December 27, 2005 Do you have a schematic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rplace Posted December 27, 2005 Author Share Posted December 27, 2005 No I don't have a schematic. I was hoping it would be something simple like remove those 3 plastic loops in the front and put your terminal strip there. Next connect your tweeter/squawker leads to the terminal strip and run wires to the correct parts (need help on this) on the existing networks. See that piece of metal just about dead center with the fattest black wire running to it. That is where I desoldered some of the old wires from. There was also a wire connected to one of the black boxes if I remember correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikebse2a3 Posted December 27, 2005 Share Posted December 27, 2005 rplace wrote: Can any of you out there take a look at the pix of my AK-2s and tell me what the various parts are (i.e. little black boxes, white tube, rectangular metal things with windings of wire and black round things with windings of wire), what I should replace to bring them back to factory fresh condition and how to properly wire them with a terminal strip so the right signal goes to the tweeter, squawker and LF sections?<?XML:NAMESPACE PREFIX = O /> ---------------------------------------------------------------- Hi rplace looking at your 1st picture (the 3 little black boxes) these are in the tweeter circuit and they are all 2mfd 250vac capacitors. the (2 black round coils) are also part of the tweeter network. the (white tube) it is a 13mfd capacitor and is in the squawker circuit and feeds signal to the autotransformer. the (rectangular metal thing) the one on the left is a 4mh coil and is in parallel with the squawker the (rectangular metal thing) located in the middle is the autotransformer and should be a T5A. This sets the level of the Squawker I'll try to post a picture af my AK-2 converted to an AK-3 with barrier strips like you want to install. mike[] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikebse2a3 Posted December 27, 2005 Share Posted December 27, 2005 here is the AK-2 changed to an AK-3 with barrier strips installed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rplace Posted December 27, 2005 Author Share Posted December 27, 2005 <?XML:NAMESPACE PREFIX = O /> I'll try to post a picture af my AK-2 converted to an AK-3 with barrier strips like you want to install. mike[] Mike, that would be great. As you know a picture is worth a 1000 words. I did not think it would be that difficult. Perhaps I will do it in two steps. First get it wired up and working wit the just the barrier strip (Not sure where I came up with terminal strip name) modification. Then when I am happy with that I will replace the caps to bring it back up to snuff. Thanks! EDIT, man that was fast...you posted while I was typing - Thanks. One question. In your picture it looks like you have two sets of wires going to each spade on your input connections, why is that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikebse2a3 Posted December 27, 2005 Share Posted December 27, 2005 here is the AK-2 schematic AK-2.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted December 27, 2005 Share Posted December 27, 2005 I'll only help if you do it right, I don't train hacks. Don't do it halfway -- build something you'll be happy with yourself about. Start by removing ALL the parts. Clean the boards and get as much glue off as you can. If you want, I can send you some new boards, I have to send you those screws anyway. Clip the ends off all the leads of the inductors and autoformer (about 3/8"). Strip back and retin the fresh leads. When you're done we can go to the next step. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikebse2a3 Posted December 27, 2005 Share Posted December 27, 2005 <?XML:NAMESPACE PREFIX = O /> I'll try to post a picture af my AK-2 converted to an AK-3 with barrier strips like you want to install. mike[] Mike, that would be great. As you know a picture is worth a 1000 words. I did not think it would be that difficult. Perhaps I will do it in two steps. First get it wired up and working wit the just the barrier strip (Not sure where I came up with terminal strip name) modification. Then when I am happy with that I will replace the caps to bring it back up to snuff. Thanks! EDIT, man that was fast...you posted while I was typing - Thanks. One question. In your picture it looks like you have two sets of wires going to each spade on your input connections, why is that? rplace that was some old audioquest wire(if your talking about the blue looking spades) that I was temporarily using and it used 2 wires for (+) and 2 for (-) legs. Also rplace I'm not really sure the capacitors have the same ageing problems as the older oil caps of the A and AA networks but you might want to try some higher quality caps like Dean uses. mike[] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rplace Posted December 27, 2005 Author Share Posted December 27, 2005 ...I don't train hacks - LOL - I have been called worse. see pic Dumpster Fodder - 2X LOL - Good one [] I was thinking I just might go the barrier strip route with current parts for a quick trip back into my khorns. If I don't blow the khorns up or burn down my house then my plan was to make them pretty and replace the earlier named "little black boxes" and "white tube" now known as Dumpster Fodder. Note that I do like the look of Mike's big winding of wire on his in the upper left corner. My current DeanG networks have two of those each. Even my wife thought it was a "great looking improvement" over the old ones. BTW, for those interested here is one of my before and after pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rplace Posted December 27, 2005 Author Share Posted December 27, 2005 rplace that was some old audioquest wire(if your talking about the blue looking spades) that I was temporarily using and it used 2 wires for (+) and 2 for (-) legs. mike[] Mike, yes the blue spades. Just to be clear for each set (+ and -) you have them going to the same place at the other end? No biamping, bywiring or any other sort of thing going on like they split off and go to seperate locations at the other end of them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikebse2a3 Posted December 27, 2005 Share Posted December 27, 2005 rplace that was some old audioquest wire(if your talking about the blue looking spades) that I was temporarily using and it used 2 wires for (+) and 2 for (-) legs. mike[] Mike, yes the blue spades. Just to be clear for each set (+ and -) you have them going to the same place at the other end? No biamping, bywiring or any other sort of thing going on like they split off and go to seperate locations at the other end of them? Yes,( No Bi-Wire or Bi-Amping), they are just in parallel to equal a larger effective gauge size. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rplace Posted December 28, 2005 Author Share Posted December 28, 2005 I'll only help if you do it right, I don't train hacks. Start by removing ALL the parts. Clean the boards and get as much glue off as you can. If you want, I can send you some new boards, I have to send you those screws anyway. Since I have a circular saw and some plywood I think I would rather make my own board and use the current ones as a guide. So let's assume I have a clean board. So Yoda, what is my next move? A parts list perhaps? I'll need to order ASAP so I can have the stuff to "play" with this weekend. Will my Weller soldering gun work or do I need something more sophisticated? The weller looks like this: and has those three tips you see in the picture above. I also have one of those super high tech things that looks like a pencil with an electrical cord on one end and a hot pointy thing on the other. I believe "hot pointy thing" is the correct technical term. While we are at it...do I need any special "audio solder"? Keep in mind I am just looking to learn a little about crossovers. Keeping the cost reasonable would be a good thing since I already have the DeanG's in my khorns and plan on keeping them for a while. All kidding aside thanks for any and all help, Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garymd Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 Rich, After you blow your house up, will you come over and blow up mine next?[] Good luck pal.[8-|] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rplace Posted December 28, 2005 Author Share Posted December 28, 2005 Sure, no problem Gary. I could start with yours if you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rplace Posted December 28, 2005 Author Share Posted December 28, 2005 DeanG, did my last post on the first page go unnoticed due to the back and forth between Gary and I? I feel like Grasshopper in Kung Fu waiting for the words of wisdom from Master Po Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 Let's start with parts. I'll post more later when I have time -- they're killing me at work this week. You need a 13uF, and no one makes or has one except Michael Percy. He carries a 13uF Auricap: http://www.percyaudio.com You need two of those and six of the 2uF's. You will need to have him 2nd Day them if you want them in time for the weekend. Another option is to just go with Bob's GE oils. They are too hot sounding to me in the Type A but I'm using them in some Super AA's I just built for myself and they sound very good. I suspect they'll respond equally well in the later series of networks. Just do the caps -- the rest of the parts are fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Klappenberger Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 Hey Dean! Are you ready for a "Super AK-2"? []Al K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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