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Heresy crossover question


Kriton

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Ok, I have had the unique opportunity to A/B a couple of pair of Heresy

2's, one pair is stock (albeit beat-up) 1985s, and the other is a pair

of 2006 brand new H2's.

Given that the speakers have a 20 years difference, I didn't expect them to sound *so* different.

SO my question is this...the 85's sounded dull and there was a lot more

noise in the sound; is this a direct result of the old

crossovers? Can older caps actually introduce noise into the

sound? The 85's were muddy and just not clear...the 06's were

clear as a bell...is the crossover the difference?

I will tell you that the tweeter diaphragms on the 85's have been

replaced with new BEC diaphragms within the last month due to my

receiving the speakers with blown tweeters.

Does anyone have a diagram of a refreshed H2 crossover, with cap values

and any suggested mods? I also have some franken speaker H1.5's

with k-77M tweeters but with an E-2 network on a wooden board, does any

one have any upgrade plans for these?

Thanks in advance...

K

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Kriton,

I think there are two issues at work for the "difference".

Old caps become resistive and that does kludge up the sound. Fresh caps would resolve that.

The other issue, changes in crossover design, could also account for some difference, but not nearly so much as caps drifted off spec. IMO.

Major congrats on the new HII's. Sweet.

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Dee, thanks for the response.

Why did I think that an H2 was an H2? I guess I just figured that

the H2 crossover stayed the same, pretty naive of me...I really don't

want to bust these things open, but I guess I need to just to figure

out the differences...

The 85's 2's just sound like crap, very interesting comparison let me tell you.

I would like to try to refresh the crossovers myself but I don't know if I am up to that quite yet...

K

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The only way into an H2 is by removing the woofer. That cabinet is all glued together. The crossover is mounted to the input cup. You may not have the same drivers in both of those. There was a bit of a transition between the original and the HII. Do your '85s have the round input cup on the back?

Mine are '89, and I like the way they are, but the only comparison I have is to some original Heresys. Big difference in sound to me on that front. I actually like mine better. To me they are smoother. Both are great speakers IMO.

Bruce

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Marvel,

The 85's have the round cup, the new H2's have a square cup...larger

crossover perhaps? Interesting...I need to pop it to find out,

the curiosity is killing me.

I also have a pair of H1's that I will use to AB with once I ahve them

refinished...they sounded fine when I go them, so I am curious as to

how each sound when sitting next to one another ..

K

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Thanks for the picts Bob, saves me from having to pop this thing.

Those caps look mighty small...Do you think it would be a noticeable

change at this point to upgrade the caps on the 2006 H2?

Thanks again,

K

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Can't really answer that because I haven't seen which caps got the low bid on the 2006 models. I can say both the ones I show above could have benefited from a cap change when new.

Bob

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The most obvious change to the H2 network would be replace the electrolytic with something better. The other capacitors are metallized film and IMHO much better than the paper in oil motor caps used in the older Heresys. You could replace them with polypropylene caps, or whatever "audiophile" caps you like. Values should be printed on the current ones.

Same comments apply to E2. You could also replace the iron core inductor with an air core one, but I don't think it will make much different.

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Malcolm,

I have never found a paper in oil cap in any of the Klipsch crossovers. Some may have been PIO in the 50s and 60s, but by the 70s, I think all the metal can type were film and foil in oil.

Bob

post-9312-13819283934592_thumb.jpg

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OK, what is the general concensus on caps? Auricap, Sonicap,

what? I just need to find capacitors that have the same values?

I really wanted to try and do the old H1 crossovers (labeled E-2)

myself, they look pretty simple, actually very simple - the only caps

on them are the square upright stadning things, I think. I have

years ago done some circuit board work, putting together hexidecimal

projects in college...

Should I replace the other components (I think autoformers or coils)

too? Do some AF's work better with some caps, and vice

versa? I think I remember someone saying (maybe you Bob) that the

AF's didn't go bad, not to worry about them?

Thanks,

K

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Kriton,

If I were doing them, I would just change out all the caps with good polypropylene caps. Dayton or Solen would be fine. For the woofer cap, just a cheap non-polorized cap will be fine.

Here are what I would use. You can go to partsexpress.com and search for these part numbers.

027-412

027-356

Bob Crites

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The only way into an H2 is by removing the woofer. That cabinet is all glued together.

Actually, on mine the back is attached with screws.

My crossover is mounted on the round cap, and some caps don't have

anything printed on them. I guess I'd have to pop in a completely

new crossover if I wanted to refresh them (which would ironiccaly cost

more than I paid for the speaker, but what the heck).

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The caps in all the Heresys I have had up through the mid seventies or so were all originally PIO, just about every make, and every voltage between 50V and 200V. The later E and all the E2 networks had metallized film of some sort.

FWIW I replaced all the caps in my Heresys with Solen metallized polypropelene caps. As to "any" nonpolarized cap, I don't think going to a nonpolarized electrolytic for the woofer cap would be a good idea. Even if there is no initial sonic difference with a better cap, electrolytics have a nasty habit of degrading significantly over time.

Really no reason to replace the autotransformer. If it is the same T2A used in many of the other Heritage series, you can try ALK's version. It has additional taps that give you more options for balancing the levels of the woofer, squawker and tweeter.

The coils appear to be air core wound on a plastic bobbin. There is really no reason to replace them. If you go to a coil with larger wire but the same value, you will wind up reducing the resistance and possibly changing the sound a bit because you altered the relative signal levels going to the woofer, tweeter and squawker. But it won't "improve" the sound per se.

If the coils were iron core, replacing them with air core would at least be a theoretical improvement in terms of hysteresis and saturation. OTHO I don't think it woild yield an audible result in the case of Heresy or Heresy II.

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Interesting! I thought all H1's were screw in backs, and H2's were glued too. I learn something new every day.

Thanks for the values Bob, I appreciate the information.

OK, so I souldn't touch the coils, how bout the formers?

K

Does anyone have any pictures of modded H2 or H1 (especially) refreshed crossovers?

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Peter,

My bad. The HIIs with the round input cap were those in transition. I hadn't thought that the backs were screw on for those. Are the woofers mounted on the back of the motorboard then, or still front mounted like the later HIIs (like mine)?

Bruce

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Hey Bob, the three caps on my crossover are:

Two square caps which are 2.0uf -+ 5% / 250 VAC connected to the

T2A AF, and a round can cap in the woofer with a value of 100V

33uf...does this sound right to you? I just need to find caps of

the those values, correct?

THis is an E-2 H1 crossover...so the H2 crossovers have a 68uf caps in the woofer circuit? What is that about?

Thanks,

K

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