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How to attentuate HF in AA crossover (La Scala) / horn deadening


cscmc1

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Hello gents (and ladies) -- I suspect this has been covered already, but a cursory search didn't turn up the info I am looking for. Apologies if this is a redundant topic, but I just picked up a commercial (read: painted black) pair of LaScalas and while I love the sound, they are far too "forward" and "bright" for my liking. Some of this may well be due to the fact that I have a very small listening room. Am I to understand that the AA crossovers are somehow adjustable, or do I just need to add L-pads to the mid and tweeter horns? For the moment, I stuffed a few cotton balls into the horn throats and it's better, but I'd like to find a proper fix.

I have owned several horn systems in the past, and most recently was listening to a pair of Fostex full-range drivers in TWQT cabinets. While the Klipsch aren't as detailed and pure, they are certainly more efficient, and I'd like to explore their potential. Do any of you "deaden" your horns with putty or anything? I used window sealing putty on my old Altec 811 horns to good effect. Just curious....

Many thanks!

Chris in IL

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I'm not 100% sure (because I have yet to see or hear a pair of Scalas), but that forwardness and brightness you hear may not be coming from the tweeter at all, but from the squawker. If it's anything like the way my CWs used to be, then it's definately coming from the squawker.

Again, I could be wrong about this.

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As Chops alluded too you are likely experiencing a very forward sounding squawker in you La Scala due to the signal level sent to the K55 driver. You can adjust the squawker level by selecting a different tap combo on the T2A autofomer in the squawker crossover section.

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I would first replace the old caps in the AA crossovers. They are almost certainly bad by now and you may find things blend and sound lots better just getting the old crossovers back into spec.

Bob Crites

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You should NOT try to adjust the level of the squawker by changing the tap on the autoformer without making corresponding changes in the capacitor/resistor portion as well in order to prevent shifting of the crossover point of the squawker. Changing the crossover point can very easily destroy the K-55-V.

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Chris, The others are right. The first step is to replace the thirty something cap cans. Then, no one will arrest you if you decide to add a pair of L-pads to custom tailor the Scalas to your room. A pair of these for each speaker, 16 Ohms for the mid, 8 Ohms for the tweeter work well.:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=260-261

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=260-262

And a face:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=260-274

Once you find a setting to your liking, you may consider a pair of adjustable constant impedance networks from Al K. In these you will find better clarity and detail.

http://alkeng.com/ (click Klipsch icon)

Rick

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Some people think the LaScalas have too much high end. I think there are two main reasons for this.

First, the attempt to use solid state amps. The big Heritage designs predate the introduction of SS to the commercial public and they often don't match well together. Big horns like tube amps. Apart for some well known exceptional designs, mass-fi SS can be quite hard on the ears.

Second, most people that have been listening to non-horn loaded bass speakers have been listening to too much bass. Real bass does not sound like 'bass', it sounds like the sound of the real bass instruments. It is very unfortunate that the common practice of 90% or more of all music listeners is to crank up the bass. Fortunately, the real bass from a horn-loaded speaker is ultimately satisfying if you are willing to listen and discover it. Many here that sought to overcome this 'missing bass' with subs only to discover in time that the LaScala really does fine without a sub for all but the most low frequency demanding music (old pipe organ music and modern ultra bassy new kids' music). In fact the sub may detract from the clearity and tightness of the horn bass for normal music.

For older speakers, a network refresh will almost always be a joy to hear - especially the handmade one's put together especially for Klipsches by a few folks here on this forum.

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For cap replacement, I used Solen and Auricap from www.partsconnexion.com, and Hovland come recommended too:

Solen 62368 (13.0 mfd, 400V, PB1300) for US$5.25

Hovland 51707 (2.0 mfd, 100V, Speaker, 0.70" D x 2.25" L) US$22.83

Auricap 62338 (2.0 mfd, 200V, .78"D x .90"L) US$9.95 each.

Prices may not be current. They are from last summer when I did mine.

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Some people think the LaScalas have too much high end. I think there are two main reasons for this.

First, the attempt to use solid state amps...

Second, most people that have been listening to non-horn loaded bass speakers have been listening to too much bass...

For older speakers, a network refresh will almost always be a joy to hear - especially the handmade one's put together especially for Klipsches by a few folks here on this forum.

A ha, but I am using tubes! 300B's, in fact. And as for natural bass, I concur entirely. I was listening to 5" Fostex full range drivers before the La Scalas, and those are tough to beat for "natural bass!" They extended quite impressively.

I agree with your final comments and have been in touch with BEC as recommended re: his replacement kits or service. Thanks for the comments, nevertheless!

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For cap replacement, I used Solen and Auricap from www.partsconnexion.com, and Hovland come recommended too:

Solen 62368 (13.0 mfd, 400V, PB1300) for US$5.25

Hovland 51707 (2.0 mfd, 100V, Speaker, 0.70" D x 2.25" L) US$22.83

Auricap 62338 (2.0 mfd, 200V, .78"D x .90"L) US$9.95 each.

Prices may not be current. They are from last summer when I did mine.

Thanks for the tips...

"Klipschorns mains, La Scala surrounds and Heresy II center." Are you kidding??? WOW! Now THAT'S home theatre!

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I attenuate the mid driver by moving the squawker tap from #4 to #3 on the autoformer. This drops the spl by 3db, which I find pleasing.

Though this does lower the frequency of the signal going to the K55, it is still well above the lower range limit of the driver. It has worked well for me for two and a half years.

I second the recommendations to refresh the caps in your crossovers. This is very important and will yield a pleasing result.

On my K400 horns, I have damped them with Dynamat purchased at BestBuy. Works fine.

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"Klipschorns mains, La Scala surrounds and Heresy II center." Are you kidding??? WOW! Now THAT'S home theatre!

Thanks, but you'll notice my setup was far from the top on this forum! Nevertheless, I'm quite happy with it!!!

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Dynamat is designed for acustic damping, rope caulk is designed for insulation. Dynamat does a neater looking job than white globs.

I knew where to buy rope caulk locally, Lowes. I didn't even think to try BB for dynamat and their stores are on the same road about 1/2 mile apart..

It's tough to get old.[:$]

Rick

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Replacing old caps in the stock crossovers with new ones actually makes the sound brighter, and dampening the old horns to reduce harshness is like trying to put out a three alarm fire with a garden hose. If you're staying with the stock horns and drivers then the best sound comes with using one of the constant impedance networks from Al or myself.

You'll probably end up having your capacitors changed out, spend a half a day sticking dynamat all over your horns, and fall victim to trying various oddball tweaks to get the sound you're looking for. After you're done, you'll either decide to sell the speakers or buy a better network.

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