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Amateur (and professional!) photographers wanted!


Amy

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Amy, I am sure you have some specifics laid out on what viewpoints, what level (eye, above, below) etc etc you have for the criteria of the photo?

Colter, I am sure you can also tell us how to give pointers and properly shoot the picture, as well as the criteria amy is looking for.

I'd shoot my rf-83 but then again....... I bet there is one in the office already.

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Hi Amy. I think Klipsch Web site looks good. [:)] I can't imagine a lot of major improvements. What I may suggest is haveing a more up to date Dealer Link Page and have your dealers have Klipsch specified material on the linked page to their Site

An Idea I had was for you to have a contest with all of your dealers in different countries. Have them submit 3 links to Klipsch oriented sales pages. Give them incentive to make attractive local ads for door prizes. Give away at least a Contest Winner (or maybe even a 1st 2nd and 3rd ) Prize. I bet you could find some forum members to help judge the contest.

If these folks (i.e. dealers) have anything close to what I am experiencing as I write this at home ( watching Pulse for the umpteenth time) then the inventory will move itself if they get the people in the door. Imo, it would be an extremely cheap and effective ad campaign. [H] I'm sorry the only vintage pics I have are of the KSB-3.1's [;)].

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Just out of curiousity, would the photographer get credit for the pictures used on your website, or would any submissions used automatically become the property of Klipsch Audio Technologies? No big deal...just wondering. Frankly, if Michael or Gary or anyone who's images are selected and used on your revised website, I think it'd be great to see their names up in lights so to speak...for example, "Copyright 2006 Michael Colter" for each of his photos displayed. I think it'd be a nice touch, and it would give everyone who views them an idea of what that particular photographer owns, et al.

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F8?

aperature size....

Its a good balance between wide open (shallow depth of field, think colter's photo from the wedding where the delicate wedding dress back was shown and how some of it was slightly out of focus) think 2.8 and below and anything higher than f11 where almost everything is in focus in the picture.

F8 is a good balance and is used very often as high aperatures (lower numbers mean higher) needs proper focus or it will all be blurry. and to small an aperature and everything is in focus and the main focus is lost in the picture

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Do you have that many old Klipsch speakers photo-ready that you need a comprehensive list?? [;)]

Have you been to my house or something??? But seriously, I think I've figured it out now. I was looking through all the sections, not the discontinued section. If I would have followed your instructions, I would have found that it's not difficult to find the ones that need photos. [:P]

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I know this is tacky but I remember seeing a mercedes benz ad where they showed actual owners standing next to their automobile proudly displaying their loyalty. How about a section to show a picture of us standing next to our speakers? Even give a brief model, year, and such statement

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Very good Jay, I was hoping someone else would take Doc's bait. Good pickup.

'F8 and be there' is an old photogs answer for how to get great photos.

You must of course, be at the correct place at the correct time, but to some that must be stated.

To elaborate, F8 is often called the 'aperature of convenience'. Nearly every lens has it, it is close to the center aperature on most as well. Sometime in the design of lenses there are concessions taken at the outer fringes of the settings, so the center setting of F8 usually contains the least amount of distortion and chromatic aberation.

For photographers using manual flash, it's simple to memorize the flash settings for a single F-stop for speed. If you have to, you can adjust the lighting based on various F-stops, but F8 gives a nice depth of field, not to shallow, not too deep. It's also handy for manually focusing in the dark. With my usual candid lenses it gives a bit of margin for error for getting people in focus when in totally dark ballrooms and such. I just set the lens on about 5 feet and blast away.

Michael

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Just out of curiousity, would the photographer get credit for the pictures used on your website, or would any submissions used automatically become the property of Klipsch Audio Technologies? No big deal...just wondering. Frankly, if Michael or Gary or anyone who's images are selected and used on your revised website, I think it'd be great to see their names up in lights so to speak...for example, "Copyright 2006 Michael Colter" for each of his photos displayed. I think it'd be a nice touch, and it would give everyone who views them an idea of what that particular photographer owns, et al.

I've thought about that, but haven't come up with an answer yet. This basically just started out as a casual, "hey, we need pics, but no longer have the product."

We have also been kicking around for a long time having a "customer testimonials" section, or something like it, where we can display photos, customer reviews, Klipsch stories, etc, but we'll need to do some serious planning for it, and the redesign is all consuming and top priority right now. Once it's done and all the bugs are worked out, I'll be pushing hard for a fun customer section of some kind.

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Colter, I remember my father mentioning the f8 scale to me or so once.

F2.8 = 500

F4= 250

F5.6= 125

F8= 60

F11= 30

F16= 15

F22= 10

All 1/*

Note F8 is the middle

My father mentioned this as a good starting point of moderate amount of lighting, say outside not midday. And then from there on you can adjust to what your eye percieves as how much light is in the environment

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Jay, the old school, back when I was just starting out, who needs light meters, rule of thumb was the

Sunny 16 rule.

To calulate exposure you use 100 ASA (ISO for all you younsters) film (yes film, it is that stuff that still in the top drawer of your dresser waiting for someday to take it in for processing[:P]) You used F16 for shots in unshaded daylight sun with a shutter speed of 1/100 of a second. To calculate from that, F8 would be twice as much light so the shutter speed need to be twice as fast (1/200 second) OR if your film was faster or slower, you adjusted as needed.

This will always get you in the ball park.

You need to ballance the 3 things that can change. Speed of film (or CCD) size of F stop and Speed of the shutter.

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honestly I do not own a light meter but I have used them.... Its not always the sunny 16 rule but then again you can always just step the developing of the film.....

To be honest I haven't used the Hasselblad for 2 years now...... Have the film (which exp date is over still in the freezer.

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