Guest " " Posted July 30, 2006 Share Posted July 30, 2006 The back bracing on this cab is installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted July 30, 2006 Share Posted July 30, 2006 Fast forward to the completion of front bracing installation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted July 30, 2006 Share Posted July 30, 2006 Cab "B" is all braced up. Cab "a" is in the back ground. When you see these cabs again, we will be sizing the back access panels as well as the front motorboard and front grill panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlton Posted July 30, 2006 Share Posted July 30, 2006 Are you going to raise the woofer like the factory does on the CW III? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted July 30, 2006 Share Posted July 30, 2006 rcarlton Yes and i will be using modern xover points on the custom B-1 type network. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted July 30, 2006 Share Posted July 30, 2006 Wiring harness will be monster Xp HP cable. Check out the price. 8.97, Radio shack is blowing this stuff out. regular price is 30 bucks. They are blowing out the 20 ft stuff for a dollar more. regualr price of the 20 ft stuff is 39.99 This is 300 conductor 99.9 pure copper. At this price, it is cheaper than the home Depot lamp cord. Don't want to get into any snake oil discussions, this is cheaper than lamp cord. I bought up about 20 rolls of this stuff for future projects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 We want to use the B-1 crossover network. Notice that the drivers are not reversed for the sqwuaker and tweeter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 We will convert a Type E xover to type B-1 with a few modifications. a. replace the 2uf cap located befor the autoformer with a 4uf cap (may wind up adding 2uf and leave the existing one in place). b. Move the tweeter from tap 3 to tap 4 c. move the squawker from tap 2 to tap 3 d. change the polarity of the squawker and tweeter so they are not reveresed We are not making the indicated resistor mods. That should get us a B-1 balancing network. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Dee Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 speakerfritz, great thread. Thanks! very cool work, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 Daddy Dee Thanks. Since the Cornwall is such a favorite amoung many, figured it would be a good project to document from scratch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamS Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 I am totally impressed! Obviously a lot of patience and skill goes into this work. As a Cornwall owner, I am eager to see the end results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 SamS Thanks. Ok, then back to work on the cabs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 This is a motorboard from a cornwall designed for upright placement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 This config has horn arranged differently so that you can lay the cabs on their side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 We will use the standard config as a template. Only change is moving the woofer up higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 To use the original motorboard as a template, the rotobit will be adjusted so that the teeth cut thru the new wood while the bare shank rides the template. The new wood will be clamped down with the template on top, the roto tool will ride on the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 This is the tool with th handle attachment. We will remove the handle and use the tool like a large pen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 Bit is in the correct position. The washer will prevent the tool from grabing the template and taking off on it's own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 We need 4 more pieces of 3/4 inch 11 ply birch to be used as fronts and back baffles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 2 more additional pieces of 1/2 inch brich ply to be used as grill motorboards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.