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Sealing Klipschorns into the corner


km5gn

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I used pipe insulation to seal the bass horn into my corners along the vertical backboard and the horizontal board that makes up the top of the bass horn. The change was noticable and a serious improvement. But I'm wondering if I'm done...

In order to make them easy to slide in and out of the corners as I was rebuilding the crossovers and applying a few coats of Linseen Oil, I put some of those felt furniture sliders that you find at home depot or lowes under the corners , so there's about a 1/16 to 1/8" gap between the wood floor and the bottom of the horns.

Should I remove them, or maybe better, get enough of it to seal the gap at the back of the horns?

Steve

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The sealing that you've done is pretty much a classic case of how to do a good job. Many people report of the merits of it.

I've never seen any reports on making the bottom seal, but obviously it makes a lot of sense and completes the project.

I'd suggest that you go with your very last thought. Keep the sliders on the bottom surface but then do work out a sealing gasket along the place where the bottom, back slab abuts up against the wall.

= = =

Dr. Bruce Edgar is a designer and manufacturer of horns. He described a project where he added extraordinary sealing to the back chamber of a horn. He said, roughly, it might be more than is necessary, but I can sleep at night, and not worry.

So too with any project. If it bothers you and has technical merit (and here it does) please do it. It is part of the pride of doing the job correctly down to the last detail.

Gil

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Intresting and very relevant thinking;

As a Khorn "newbee" I asked the same question some months ago.
I was informed that it was important NOT to introduce a gap under the horns!

What I have done, is to glue a 2mm rubber mat under the horn. The result gives the horn a very solid and "nonslip" footprint. By doing so, it's take some jiggeling to get the horns all the way in to the corner, because the horn almost fixes itself to my wooden floor. But after all, that is not something I do every other day.


Erland

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I sealed the K'horns to the floor using strips of the same furniture pads that I used for the 3 corners, and it was a noticable improvement. I expected better bass, but got even more. The bass is deeper and a bit punchier (of that's a word) and the upper end of the sound from the bass bin seemed to get a boost too.

It's funny, but I wonder if the guys who sold me these would have let them go if they'd been installed correctly. He didn't even have proper corners, much less sealed into them.


Steve (a happy camper)

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I always wondered why Klipsch didn't cut a relief in the backboard to fit over baseboards (which I have done) to get the K-horn closer to the walls.

JJK

 


What model year do you have?

My 1985 models have such a relief stock from the factory.


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I am perty sure I used 3/8 inch foam pipe insulation. Usually comes in a pack of 4 about 3 feet long each. Walmart has it or any hardware store. No glue is needed, just slide the foam pipeing on the edges of the tail pieces and you are done, it was the cheepest tweek I made too my k-horns cost me 3 or 4 bucks.

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I think that I used 3/8" pipe insulation too. That's the size of pipe it's meant to go around, Outside diameter is close to 2 inches. I'll attach a couple of pictures. I didn't permanently attach the insulation. It held onto the backing board easily without making it permanent.

post-25216-13819325928464_thumb.jpg

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Yup, that's the deal. IndyKlipschFan came over and did mine for me when I first bought them. He also got the sticky 'gripper' footies and stuck them over the 'domes of silence' to protect my hardwood floor and keep the Khorns from slipping out of position. Nice pix!

A few weeks later Steve P was over and insisted that we take the side grilles off of my Left Khorn. It was being held out about 2" from the wall because of my baseboard radient heat. Wow- what a difference! You HAVE to get them tight in the corner or there is quite a suck-out of bass frequencies, not the low bass like you'd think, but around 300Hz I think he said. Someone has measured it.

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Yup, pipe insulation works perfectly; You can also use 1/4 size (also comes with the "peel off" tape for the sticky edge).

To seal to the floor.... I replaced the factory metal gliders (they will tear up a hardwood floor....) with teflon "gliders", but used more of them, including three "inboard" in the center; then used a piece of 3/16" thick x 3/4" wide closed cell foam weather stripping, but did not peel off the the "floor" side "sticky" cover. Slides around perfectly. Cheap to replace after several "move out for spring cleaning" moves that will tend to wear it off.

I'm also debating about doing the same thing on the edges instead of pipe insulation next time around. Easier to trim and gets them very close to the wall.

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G Day Mate!!!! That's why were here!!

Thanks for the tip, it has worked really well. I have 'sealed' the top board of the bass bin of my '04 Khorns to the wall and now have added depth. Unbelievable when you think about what this small tweak will do!

Yes.... Another happy customer!

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