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POLL: Fun with bias/voltage meters? What is your wall voltage?


meagain

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meagain

" I'm curious as to what your Monster is doing to deal with that 109 number"

Easy, there are 3 meters, one indicates the voltage leaving the box, one indicates what the correction was, one indicates the power consumption. If I press a button, I get the ac wall outlet. On an RMS volt meter (the one inside the avs 2000), I'm showing a voltage corection of 10.9 volts, on the output meter (RMS) I'm showing 120.1 volts. On my HTPS 7000 (which is connected to the AVS2000), I'm showing on it's peak voltage meter 124.8 volts. The meter on the AVS 2000 and HTPS 7000 operate differently.

"I read on the Voltage Regulation thread where you mentioned desireing 117v for some tube amps there and you somehow created an add-on or modded the Monster to change the tap settings to run a bit lower"

I no longer have the amps that I did this with. But how it was done is simple. I put a 1500 watt transformer in between the AVS2000 and the amps. I wired the transformer in step down mode to provide a reduction of what was coming in.

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Prior to today, 126 was my highest. 136.1 is really bad. Somewhere in today's voltage fun, the meter showed low battery. This was somewhere between around between the 130-136 testings. I shut everything off including the TV. Got a new battery and am testing at 120. Now..... would a low battery make the meter read high like that? I find that a bit hard to grasp. So 2 goofy things.......

1. Would a low battery on a meter produce sky high readings? Or, did my volts just go down? I've no clue!

2. I have a Furman voltage regulator now that was just installed about 5 days ago. Mostly, when I test, I can see the results of the regulation. I've been getting very odd numbers here and there to indicate it's not regulating like almost 126. At that number, it should regulate down. Even odder is that I've gotten wall voltage (same circuit) that was LOWER than the Furman. As if the device was ramping UP the volts. Today as well. So about 3 days ago I got high numbers (not regulating), then working ok, then today it goes crazy again. The meter didn't say low battery till today.

I saw my tube bias go from .640 to .750 quickly. I figured I got a defective voltage regulator, but now I wonder if it's the meter not working sporadically. I tested today ad nauseum and the bad numbers were consistent. Basically, now I'm just plain confused. Yes I'll be calling the electric company for sure now. If only to leave a paper trail in case my house fries to cover my butt for insurance.

Anyone think my meter gave me these readings today and a few days ago? I just can't imagine - but IDK.

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You know how hard it is explaining this to the forum? Try laying it out to the ComEd guy that answers the phone (when you actually get someone to talk to!). Man alive that is going to be a conversation! I'm pretty certain that no one who answers that call is going to be of much help. I say it's time to call an electrician for looksee and an opinion.

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If my readings today were accurate, the electric co. 'better' do something! They can at least come out and make sure their gear at the pole is ok. I've blown lots of tubes and fuses here and if they're shooting me 136 volts - I'd think that would be damaging to ANY electronic gear. Plus, it's costing me more than normal to run lightbulbs, etc. Al Gore wouldn't be happy with me. ;) IDK, it's working now at 122 at the wall (and regulator's outlet). Sounds fantastic.

Unless the meter's battery was at fault. Am I wrong to find that hard to believe on first blush?

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Well, 136 does seem high so I am skeptical of the reading.

However, this does bring up the issue about how worried one should become about a voltage that is not "exactly" 120 volts (or whatever). IOW, is there a problem? There may not be since the devices (amp, source, etc) have power supplies and when they were designed, the engineer understood that the voltage from the wall would not always be rock solid. Your power supply at a minimum will include a huge transformer, a rectifier and a huge capacitor. So the "working end" on the amplifier is buffered from the "inconsistencies" of the utility company. That said, yes it is possible that the device (amp etc) had a poorly designed power supply. However, in that case not all the blame should be placed on the utility company, rather you need to use competently designed equipment. Look at all the devices in your house, including computers etc, that are getting the same hiccups in the power at the wall (I am excluding major ones like brown outs and surges). They still work. Why would an amp be different?

Good Luck,

-Tom

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Well my tube gear now has been working fine. No blown fuses/tubes, etc. I talked to Craig today about some stuff and he said it could've very well been my meter. IDK. I just tested again and all the walls read at 121. Furman outlet is 123 which I don't feel it should be at. Have to test more.

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