User Name Posted January 11, 2002 Share Posted January 11, 2002 Of all the postings I have seen on this site I haven't seen one about feet so I will ask. I'm assuming most of the Klipsch owners use the threaded speaker feet/rods that screw into the bottoms of floor standing speakers? Maybe my assumption is wrong but that's why I'm asking it here. Can anyone tell the sound difference between speakers that rest on the floor and speakers that rest above the floor because of the threaded feet in use? If so what is your opinion? My KLF 30's sound awesome right now and I haven't taken the time to install the feet yet. So I was just wondering before I upset my setup to install the feet, I'd like to hear your opinions. Will I hear a dramatic difference? How many inches should be between the floor and the bottom of the cabinet? I will also be moving soon to a home with wooden floors, so I'm a little more worried about the speakers tilting with only 4 points of contact on my wooden floors, the carpet I have now makes me feel a little safer. Thanks and Happy New Year! User Name Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boa12 Posted January 11, 2002 Share Posted January 11, 2002 un, i use the spikes on my 30s & rf-3. i think it makes the bass tighter, better defined. but then again I have thick carpet under the 30s, but i hate to think what it's doing to the hardwood underneath. oh well, can always refinish them if exposed. but heck don't want to expose them because i like the spikes. use the feet at the least. ------------------ My Home Systems Page This message has been edited by boa12 on 01-11-2002 at 04:03 AM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
User Name Posted January 11, 2002 Author Share Posted January 11, 2002 That's what I meant by feet, I have the spikes too. I was just wondering. I'll have to try it now. Boa12 you answered every one of my posts in the last 2 days. You are very helpful. Thanks a lot. Have a good weekend everybody. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kilowatter Posted January 11, 2002 Share Posted January 11, 2002 The purpose of the spikes isn't to elevate the speakers. Their purpose is to "anchor" the cabinets to the floor. When I bought my T-5000s from a co-worker, he said he had some spiked "feet" for them that he had never used and when he located them, he would give them to me. I had had the speakers for about a month when he brought them in to work. I put them on the next day and noticed a immediate improvement in the bass response. It was definately tighter and more defined. My living room floor is carpet over cement slab and the spikes penetrated the carpet, anchoring the speakers to the cement thus eliminating the speakers "floating" on the carpet. If you have a carpeted floor, then the spikes are a improvement in my opinion. ------------------ Denon AVR-3802 Denon DCD-1520 Sanyo DS31590 31" TV Panasonic A120U DVD Sony SLV-N71 Hi-Fi VCR RCA Satellite System Klipsch Tangent 5000 mains Klipsch Tangent 1000 rears Klipsch Tangent Center Theater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boa12 Posted January 11, 2002 Share Posted January 11, 2002 sorry un, was afraid u meant spikes. if u go to hardwood floors it should have come w/ the lil pegs/feet too. as kilo says the spikes or pegs concentrate the weight to specific points & should anchor them better to reduce speaker/cabinet resonance. ------------------ My Home Systems Page Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BobG Posted January 14, 2002 Share Posted January 14, 2002 When speakers rest on carpet, they have a tendency to oscillate back and forth in opposition to the motion of the woofers. This is especially true in music with strong, repetitive bass lines. The movement of the speaker may seem insignificant, but it's typically greater than the excursion of the midrange/tweeter; inducing lots of Doppler distortion. It also reduces bass impact. If you have floors which will be marred by spikes, use the supplied rubber tipped adjustable posts or put dimes (pennies can be pierced) under the spikes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boa12 Posted January 14, 2002 Share Posted January 14, 2002 would dimes be 2small? iow, should we upgrade to quarters or 1/2 dollars? thanks bob! great tip! ------------------ My Home Systems Page This message has been edited by boa12 on 01-14-2002 at 03:17 PM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beemer Posted January 14, 2002 Share Posted January 14, 2002 Interesting comments on this thread... I have a set of Kg4's which currently utilize the factory supplied riser "to better couple the speaker to the floor for maximum bass". These speakers currently sit on thick carpet with heavyweight underlay over concrete slab. Would feet be an improvement or a detriment in this particular case? I have also read in other threads that some members have used ceramic tile over carpet to anchor their speakers. Would this be effective in my case (with the risers as opposed to feet)? Comments? ------------------ System: Technics SA-DA8 Sony CDP-C435 CD Sony DVP-NS300 DVD Hitachi UX617 VHS Klipsch KG4's Fronts Klipsch KG2.2's Surrounds Klipsch SC-1 Center Yamaha YST-SW100 sub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boa12 Posted January 14, 2002 Share Posted January 14, 2002 beemer, use spikes for your layout. or is that what u already have? don't know what the risers look like for the kg. ------------------ My Home Systems Page Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lindsey Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 Boa, All it is a 4" flat platform that the speakers sit on. My Chorus I's and II's sit on these as well. There are no spikes or legs underneath the platforms either. I was wondering the same thing... Mike ------------------ My Music Systems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boa12 Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 thanks mike. can't u screw spikes right into the cabinet holes? i think the idea is to have the weight concentrated in the smallest area. hence dimes instead of quarters ------------------ My Home Systems Page Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BobG Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 One of the mods I did to my Forte's was to seal all the joints of the riser bases and then fill them with dry sand and put a bottom plate on the whole assembly. Then used Tip Toes between the bottom plate and the carpeted floor. About 40 pounds of sand in each speaker located at the very bottom, in combination with the points did a very nice job. More transient impact and focus. Worth the time and cost to do. By the way, I see this is my 1999th post! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cc1091 Posted January 16, 2002 Share Posted January 16, 2002 I used spikes on both of my RP-3s until my building maintenence people decided to work on my air conditioner (damn Minnesotans don't believe in central air since it rarely gets very hot here). They managed to break the feet on one speaker moving it out of the way. Anyhoo, the result is that I did notice less accuracy in the bass (especially since that speaker was in an actual corner, where the other is not). I'm working on a design that uses steel plates on the bottoms of the speaker to screw the spikes into. Why Klipsch designed the feet out of flimsy plastic is beyond me (aside from being too cheap that is). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boa12 Posted January 16, 2002 Share Posted January 16, 2002 cc, u probably got a new foot by now, but that happened to an rf-3 of mine too. called klipsch parts & they sent me a new 1 - free of charge. ------------------ My Home Systems Page Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BobG Posted January 16, 2002 Share Posted January 16, 2002 And the newer feet have been beefed (plasticked?) up so even when tipping the speaker onto just one or two feet, they don't break. The feet are plastic to keep cost down. The cool brass cones we supplied with the KSP-400's were crazy expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BobG Posted January 16, 2002 Share Posted January 16, 2002 And the newer feet have been beefed (plasticked?) up so even when tipping the speaker onto just one or two feet, they don't break. The feet are plastic to keep cost down. The cool brass cones we supplied with the KSP-400's were crazy expensive and there are tons of aftermarket choices available to any body who chooses to spend more money. It truly is a balancing act between performance and price with most people on this forum willing to spend more to get additional performance but not representing the 'average' Klipsch customer. Wish it were otherwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lindsey Posted January 16, 2002 Share Posted January 16, 2002 Bob, Where might I find those tip-toes? Did you just open up the passive radiator and put the sand in from the rear? Did you use ziplock bags or something? What is the metal plate for, how is it used and where did you get it? Thanks in advance, Mike ------------------ My Music Systems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edster00 Posted January 16, 2002 Share Posted January 16, 2002 Mike, et al: aabernathy posted this mod here a few months ago...I copied it here- Ok Guys and hopefully gals, I have had so many e-mails on the subject of Forte mods that I have decided to post them as promised on the Klipsch BB - so here they are. Depending on free time I will post one today and a major one tomorrow. In and effort to tighten the bass on the Fortes, I placed sand in the riser bases and created a new bottom. Some people use spikes, but I have beautiful hardwood floors that I didnt want to mar. Forte Mod # 1 Materials All materials were purchased at a local Home Depot. 1. Clear Silicon for caulking gun 2. 36 - 1 1/2 wood screws 3. 36 ¾ wood screws 4. 7 ½ of oak 2 X 1 wood 5. 2X4X1/4 Red oak plywood (Home Depot lists this as ¼ B-4 Rot Red Oak 2X4 CFP) 6. 20lb bag of horticultural grade sand (playground sand) Instructions Note: After reading through instructions please recheck measurements. This was written down from memory, although I have performed this mod on seven different sets of Fortes. 1. Flip the Fortes over so that the riser bases are facing up and you can see inside them. 2. Cut the 7 ½ of oak wood into eight pieces (Four that are 13 and four that are 8 ½ long) Use the 1 ½ screws to secure these pieces of wood one at a time into the interior walls of the riser bases making sure that the 2 side is flush against the riser wall. 3. So, looking down into the riser bases you will see the 1 side facing up toward you make sure that this side is flush with the top of the plastic corner braces of the riser base. This is done so that the plywood you are going to use, as a bottom will sit level on both the plastic corner pieces and the rails you have created. You are securing the rails through the 2 sides into the riser base walls. 4. Silicon the interior cracks where the riser base meets the speaker and the riser base corners. Smooth with finger. 5. Cut the plywood to make two pieces that measure 15 X 10 ½. The 2 X 4 plywood will make four of these bottoms, so go buy more Fortes to modify. 6. Fill riser bases with sand and level with a ruler so that the top of the sand is level with the top of the rails and corner joints. 7. Place plywood piece in place and use smaller screws to secure in place. Secure plywood piece into the rails that you have created. This creates a bottom that should be completely flush with the Forte riser bottom. 8. If you are a real anal retentive, obsessive compulsive Klipsch freak like me, you can even stain the plywood bottom so that it matches your speaker cabinets - although no one will ever see it. 9. Silicon the cracks between the riser base walls and the plywood bottom to keep the sand from leaking. 10. Let dry. Turn the speakers over and enjoy until the next rainy day when you can tackle the next mod. Now, can someone tell me how I could have put the link to the old thread instead of copy and pasting the actual text? TIA! ------------------ Ed W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lindsey Posted January 16, 2002 Share Posted January 16, 2002 Ed, Thanks for posting that info but I think it may be more than I'm capable of doing. I would also have to think the sizes would be different for my Chorus's. He never did say what kind of results he got with this mod (what did it do?, etc). I will cut and paste it into a word doc for future reference, however. Thanks again, Mike ------------------ My Music Systems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edster00 Posted January 16, 2002 Share Posted January 16, 2002 Mike, Sorry, I thought this mod was what you were talking about. This is the same mod BobG was describing earlier in this thread. You would have to adjust the dimensions to do the Chorus. ------------------ Ed W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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