edwardre Posted January 18, 2002 Share Posted January 18, 2002 Stripping,sanding and refinishing my new CW's. Looking forward, I was thinking of whether or not to fabricate risers as mine did not come equipped. Was wondering what other members think on this subject? I think that I definately want to make some sort of risers, in the very least to project the sound over the back of the couch (using as rears). How high? Kicked slightly upwards? Filled with sand or something to anchor? What are the dimensions of stock risers and are you pleased with them? Thanks ------------------ Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audible Nectar Posted January 18, 2002 Share Posted January 18, 2002 I've had a similar idea. I'm thinking about doing the same with a yet to be acquired set of Chorus or Fortes, for the same reason - to get the tweeter/squawkers to play over my couch. I located nice square oak boxes at Oak Express that would fit the bill well - they are about 16" square. ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll! This message has been edited by dndphishin on 01-18-2002 at 09:14 AM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frt8dog Posted January 18, 2002 Share Posted January 18, 2002 In regards to the Cornwall risers. They are 23 1/2 inches X 14 1/2inches X 2 inches. They are not angled just 4 pieces of birch plywood with the above dimensions mitred at the corners. They are screwed to the base of the cabinet. They are great to have and will save the bottom of the cabinets from getting chipped when moving them around. Hope this helps, enjoy a piece of Klipsch history! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan Songer Posted January 18, 2002 Share Posted January 18, 2002 I have old (1964) Cornwalls and used them for years just sitting on the floor, but about 5-6 years ago I got the "tweak" bug and built what has been the best tweak "for the money" to date. I fabricated a pair or risers out of sheet-steel, walnut and sand that are the some size as the later factory risers. The walnut frame is sandwiched by the steel and the void is filled with play sand. These stands (which weigh in at about 60 lbs ea!) sit on "spikes and cones" and the Cornwalls in turn sit on the stands. The improvement in bass clarity was ASTONISHING. I can't reccomend this enough! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Good2BHome Posted January 18, 2002 Share Posted January 18, 2002 Hi Ed, I too am interested in adding risers both for sound and appearance reasons. quote: In regards to the Cornwall risers. They are 23 1/2 inches X 14 1/2inches X 2 inches. They are not angled just 4 pieces of birch plywood with the above dimensions mitred at the corners. They are screwed to the base of the cabinet. The description above leads me to believe that the original risers are hollow (i.e. open on the bottom) since there are only four (4) pieces of plywood. Is this correct? It would seem that an additional piece on the bottom would be better? I would hope someone would post a picture to confirm. I would appreciate comments about the changes (good/bad) in sound quality. Mike ------------------ 3 Channel Audio: 1980 Cornwalls Klipsch Quartet as Rear The following I bought NEW in 1971: McIntosh MR-74 McIntosh C-26 McIntosh MC-2505 This message has been edited by Good2BHome on 01-19-2002 at 10:47 AM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Good2BHome Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 Gentlemen and Ladies: At the risk of commiting a Forum social blunder, I'm bring this thread to the top. I would appreciate additional comments/information on the sound differences with and without Cornwall risers. Any pictures or construction information would also be appreciated. Respectfully, Mike This message has been edited by Good2BHome on 01-25-2002 at 08:36 PM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edwardre Posted January 28, 2002 Author Share Posted January 28, 2002 Hi Mike, I finished refinishing one of my CW's. Well almost, still need to Watco. Anyway, I ended up fabricating these risers. They are 4" along the front sloping to 3" at the rear, giving the CW a 'kicked upward' stance. Evidently, not unlike a Heresy riser. I have had the opportunity to preview them side to side with the as yet unfinished CW and I can hear a difference. The sound now projects up over the back of the couch better and I don't know if it's subtle room placement variances, but both the missus and I 'feel' the sound more. ------------------ Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted January 28, 2002 Share Posted January 28, 2002 it helps if the mid-range horn points directly at your ears, at the same level, but it also helps if the tweeter does too, so a compromise would be to have some spot between the two aimed at your ears ... ------------------ Colin's Music System Cornwall 1s & Klipsch subs; lights out & tubes glowing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frt8dog Posted January 28, 2002 Share Posted January 28, 2002 Good2BHome: Indeed the risers are hollow. The dimensions are correct. I bought the risers them when I bought the Cornwalls in "82. Klipsch didn't build junk. The cabinets are well built, as we all know, and the risers are plenty strong enough to hold the weight. No sagging of the cabinet base after all these years. As far as the sound goes...I have nothing to compare them to, they still sound as wonderful as the day I bought them. I guess you can build angled risers like another member did. I guess experiment and see what you like. Hope this helps. Cheers frt8dog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Good2BHome Posted January 29, 2002 Share Posted January 29, 2002 Ed Great picture and great work. It helps me with the visual aspect of the risers. It looks good with the 4" front dimension. My desire is to make them 2 1/4" high (the thickness of 3 layers of 3/4" plywood or other denser substance(s) ). This will work visually based on your picture. I must allow for a future WAF. "Love me, Love the Cornwalls." Applications are currently being accepted. frt8dog Thank you for the confirmation on the factory dimensions and being hollow. Allan Songer You and I are on the same page as to increased weight and added stiffness. These are also my thoughts. I appreciate the confirmation. My additional thought is to attach the risers through the bottom of the cabinet, so they may be detached if necessary in the future. I haven't given this much thought yet, but realize I will have to deal with the port. This would help in moving or returning to stock condition. Can anyone provide a description and/or picture of how the factory risers are attached to the bottom of the speaker? Thanks to all, Mike This message has been edited by Good2BHome on 01-29-2002 at 12:54 PM 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edwardre Posted January 30, 2002 Author Share Posted January 30, 2002 Don't know about the CW as I have 'aftermarket' risers. However, my Belle has the riser (think they all did to allow for the bass hatch) and it's attached with wood screws screwed into the bottom of the bass bin. Removable indeed. ------------------ Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Disc Posted September 5, 2003 Share Posted September 5, 2003 Bumped to revisit this topic. I wish to build risers for my Cornwalls. Anyone have photos of their custom built risers.... I need inspiration.. Thanks in advance. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobile homeless Posted September 5, 2003 Share Posted September 5, 2003 Ask Allan. I am sure he could do some pics of his setup. I have stock risers on mine. Although all my speakers are spiked to the floor, the Cornwalls actually sounded best in my system on WINE CORKS! I had spiked them and done various tests. The wine corks, strangely enough, sounded the most natural and provide precise imaging in addition to a clean low end. For a cheap experiment, try three tennis balls under each speaker. It would raise the CW and provide an interesting comparison. I would have attempted this except I found great sound with riser and cork solution. Cut the balls in equal halves or use footers for furniture to keep from rolling. kh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted September 5, 2003 Share Posted September 5, 2003 I believe Clipped & Shorn has his up on a couple of slabs of granite, acquired from a countertop manufacturer. Recycled sink cut-outs, I believe. fini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Disc Posted September 5, 2003 Share Posted September 5, 2003 Allan is sending me pics of his stands. Can't really visualize what the cork solution would look like. Tennis balls... With or without the Risers in place? Is this something that would make a difference on carpet, or more for bare floors? I have that wonderful Purple carpet under my Cornwalls. Already rope caulked the Cornwalls woofer basket and squawker last night. Sonically I heard an improvement. Also having the grills off seemed to help. I'm planning to implement all the mods described in the "Equalizing the Cornwall" article except for the vent area mods. I'm also thinking of of a granite top for the Cornwalls to get some weight on the cabinet. Allan's stands have the spikes, and I think that is the way to go. Seems most all current high end speaker designs incorporate some spike system. Anyone know what the principle behind this and why it works? - tb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobile homeless Posted September 5, 2003 Share Posted September 5, 2003 As I said in my post, I spike EVERY SINGLE ONE OF MY SPEAKERS AND STANDS EXCEPT the Cornwall. I tried spiking the CW ans was not happy with the results. I put CORKS on their side under the CW RISE edge. I liked this result better than the spikes in my room. I have the stock risers and noo the solid, filled risers that Allan has made. Why do spikes work? A number or reasons. First the spikes act as a coupling device to the floor to give it just three or four points of contact, and only a SMALL pinpoint at that. This keeps movement of the speaker to a minimum and also REALLY improves imaging. Imagine the speaker playing and vibrating and transmitting that energy to the floor. It is is still on the floor, you have something gained already. This is also why some might opt for that mod to the back in that article I linked to online. It's VERY important to get the spikes set so the speaker is both level and without any rocking whatsoever. Spiking the speakers almost ALWAYS is a major plus. Ditto with your stands although, like others have found, I like the puddy or Blue-Tak option between stand and speaker. In the case of the CW, if you MAKE Allan's risers, you can have spikes on them or use the Blue-tak variations to connect the sand/lead filled base with the CW bottom. You can order spikes at a number of places online. Or you can use the cone option. As I remember, your CW backs do not come off? Pity. BTW, did you ever look into the Silverline Sonata II? kh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Disc Posted September 5, 2003 Share Posted September 5, 2003 Kelly, The backs come off. Mine are '85s with the B-3 crossover. I already rope cauked the woofer baskets and squawker. Going to try some new wire soon too. Along with the other mods I mentioned. Weren't you paying attention? - Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobile homeless Posted September 5, 2003 Share Posted September 5, 2003 Yeah, I realized that right after I sent it but was too lazy to edit it since I already edit too much as it is. Indeed, I was coming here to edit it now, sadly enough. Give me credit for answering your post, froot. Lord. This place takes you for granted in a sec! Glad Allan is helping you here. I dont know how you feel about this, but I really love the basic Type B with the oils. You could make one easily enough too. It really is very nice sounding. I dig the Type A mod for the Khorns too. As you may guess, I am a big fan of oil caps. One thing you have to remember, my CW are almost completely stock and do VERY well with my 2A3 Moondogs. The Moondogs have more heft and extension, are are a bit more quiet too. My room is much smaller than yours and I dont know what is going on over there. Why you cant get 90dB of VERY pure and clear sound is troubling. I wonder if something is amuck with one of the crossovers or drivers. My buddy system with the CW and Wrights sounds extemely open and detailed and is very clear and pure sounding. Of course, he is listening to classic jazz which is a diff. His room is double the size of mine. His 76 are BONE stock as well with Alnico and Type B. I hope some good things come up. Did you ever look into the Sonata II? kh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
@silverfox@ Posted September 5, 2003 Share Posted September 5, 2003 Have you try raising them about 8" off the floor and ease then in the corner 15' apart toed in & 15-18' to listening position. if you cannot understand the language of the cornwall proberly its not for you. unfortunately the 7'S might eventually pose the same type of synthoms you're experiencing now, its not Fesiable to do all the mods that are posted. find the strenght that you're able to admire in these boxes,listen to those and you might be suprised how gentle these cornwalls are.IT MIGHT NOT BE THE SPEAKERS. They dont cover any thing up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Disc Posted September 5, 2003 Share Posted September 5, 2003 I give you credit. You don't let much slide yourself, so I'm just keeping you honest. Ok, you like the oil caps in the Type Bs... May I ask why? There is a bit of an update in order on my observations. I rope caulked the Cornwalls last night. Did both the woofer baskets and mid squawker. Along with that, and taking off the grills while playing, seemed to make a noticeable change. Seemed tighter and clearer. I took out my SPL meter, and played the 1812 torture CD. I recorded 96db peaks which for some reason I though was lower before. I didn't use a meter before, but my guess was the Wrights choking before must of been at a higher setting. 100+ db? Last night at that level they seemed to do ok. I read some stuff on the Sonata, still compiling the information though. - tb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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