efzauner

All joking aside, the currents are so darn small that 30 gauge or larger or smaller makes no difference. It is only a cost/manufacturing or other issue. Go ahead and put larger wire if it is easier for you to handle...But dont overdo it. You shold not have to go bigger than 22 gauge. If you go bigger then you need alot of heat to melt solder and you may melt otherhtings along the way. But dumb question? Are the input wires not Coaxial or twisted pair for shielding? The link to the wire gauge page was so that one could easily calculate the resistance that the 30 gauge wire added to the circuit and conclude that it makes no difference. I dont even bother doing the calculations. I am curious why you did not make the calculations yourself? . Audio is not rocket science. Simple application of Ohm's law can be used to solve so many of the standard audio questions whenever wire is concerned. Input voltage is about 1 volt Input resistance could be from 10KOhm to 1M Ohm. lets use 10K Ohm as a worst case Using ohms law: V=IR or I=V/R you get 1/10 of a milliamp.. Using the wire gauge tables for 30 gauge is 100ohms per 1000f So even if you have a foot of wire you have 1/10 of an ohm Using ohms law again: V=IR 1/10 miliamp times 1/10th of an ohm equals 1/100 of a volt drop.. Or 1% loss. which is inaudible.

Dear Spkrdctr. Oh my GOD. Like Bones on Star Trek would say you are using barbaric tools from the dark ages of hifi. With my wires at the front end, the electrons get alligned and STAY aligned! Dont put your money into a tool in order to align your electrons over and over again like a crappy Craftsman radial arm saw. Put the right kind of wire at where the signal comes into the amp and fix the problem once and for all!

Quite simple and common sense actually.. If you use big thick wire, there are too many electrons in that wire for the low voltage and current present at the RCA inputs to move. Its like trying to push a Mack Truck with your fingertip. It simply wont work. 30Gauge wire is still on the thick side. I have some 40 gauge Platinum Crystal core, boron-gold sputtered wire. The high vacuum sputtering technique is used extensively by advanced Galium Nitride Space qualified semiconductor labs as it is far far superiour to the normal electroplating techniques to deposit uniform atomic layers. This technique as far as I know is unique in the esoteric ultrafi world: no one has been able to get access to the high tech equipment needed before. It significantly increases the skin depth and thus reduces the mutual self-inductance due to concentric fields. The wire is then weaved into a patented lattice that is critical it reduce the autoreluctance of current flow. The directional weave keeps the electrons field aligned and in simpler terms, prevents them from bumping into each other due to brownian motion. This also increases thier mobility and makes for much faster wire. The sound improvement is really incredible! I would be happy to send you a sample but I just sold my last batch to a well known audiophile. I would tell you who he is but he is working on some custom modifications to his super high end amp that will appear in an upcomming magazine, and he is bound to secrecy because they want exlusive rights to the amazing sound breakthru that he will show. Mind you it is not inexpensive stuff, but well worth it, and those who have used it are quite happy to tell me that had they known about it sooner, it would have been the first modification to do since it affects the signal the moment it leaves the interconnect. And I am sure you would agree that it is best to work on the signal as early as you can, before it enters the more complex portions of your amp. My next batch is delayed as the lab that is making it was just hired to fix some of the recent Space Shuttle problems. But if you send me your deposit of $10 I would be happy to put you on top of the waiting list!. How many mm do you need?

HI Klipsch lovers I am looking for a pair if Tangent T10s. I found a pair on craiglist in seatle but the guy wants local pickup.. Could someone pick them up for me and ship them to me in Montreal either boxed or just the drivers and xovers.. Would use papal or could send you a money order. Thanks

That is an interesting approach.. Why not just use a HP tuned below FS.. Why the need to channel those low freqeuncies to a resistor? The load just consumes amp power supply current. Why not just use a HP that presents high impedance to the amp for anyting below FS?

In most industries, the company will concentrate on the home market first, and going thru distributors in other countries. I suspect that Britisch speakers companies may have a head start in ahum... "ex colonies" such as HK and other asian markets. You still see colonial connections in politics....for example France having better relations with its ex colonies and other countries in the middle east such as Syria, lebanon, Northern Africa where it did have more influence before WW1. Hope this thread doesn turn into politics..

It would depend on what is doing the D/A conversion. Almost any DVD player outputing CD digital audio will sound very similar when your HTreceiver is doing the D/A.

I just designed and build a sub. Searching the internet for typical voice coil temperature rises in order to simulate that in WinISDPro, I found that they can go up to 300dec C .... Even in small speakers. I suspect that even if you do not need the ultimate power handling, selecting a sub that can handle 1000w vs 300w means that the VC is kept cooler and thus reduces the power compression due to temperature rise and the resultant increase in resistance of the VC. I wonder if the same thing happens in tweeters and midranges and is at least part of the couse of reduced sound quality at higher levels (in addition to cone breakup and other non-linearities. I think that some of the DSP controlled subs may even change the frequency response at higher power levels to compensate for VC heating. It seems a no brainer....

Hope he's OK.. I got my LaScala's from him.. drove from montreal to Rochester and back in one day with the minivan.. Left home at 1 am..got there at 6 am .. and back home at noon in time to take my kid to skating...showed me all his gear ... Nice guy!

its how often your wife sends you to the corner of the room because you spent another day in the garage building another speaker and did not even have lunch with the family and kids.../

Would it be possible to email them to me too? I am fiddling with some tangent ideas efzauner@yahoo.ca thanks

Anyone have a set to spare? Thinking of the 8"woofer with 2 tweeters on either side in a trapzeoid config to use as a surround in a all Heritage system.. The K76 is the same as Heresy 2, perhpaps the xover is in the 5Khz range and there is no mid horn.. But it should work.

I agree with Dr Who... The only mechanism that I can think of that would cause an amp to blow up instantly would be instability at very low impedances. But even there, I am wondering how a lower load impedance would cause loop gain to meet nyquist instability criteria. But then it deserves to die as it is a crappy amp Just connecting 3 ohm speakers to a 4ohm amp will not instantly blow it up. 4-8 ohms are just a nominal rating and most are lower anyway. But I am always open to learning new things, So SpearkerFritz... would like a more detailed reasonaing as to why say what you do...

Wow...that is a nice offer. Thanks.. This is my first ported sub design and I know it wont be my last. It is for a temporary HT room (actually kids playroom) and it will be some time before I get the real HT room finished... I dont expect to go to such high volumes so I dont expect to need your nice port flares at this time... Maybe in year or so i would be interested....what do you do for port end correction? Is this considered a flanged? Or does it require manual tuning to get it right? I will make the cabinet bigger and make the port lentth adjustable. Will mostlikely have a bend in it. The WAF factor and Kid factor means that I will make a triagular box about 4ft high that fits in the corner behind the sectional sofa. Thus the sub will be protected from feet.. pens... and other things. Once it is made I can dabble with volume and port lenght and even try to model NL performance so the next iteration for the real HT room is better. But the plots as the are are pretty flat... withing a db or so.. I suspect that the room will make the biggest difference. I am not sure what difference chasing 1db flatness will make in the real room... Thanks for all your help...will probably cut MDF this weekend.

You mean the upper peak will go down because of increased resistance and lower Q? But you think the overall design will work. I am not missing anything here. It seems too easy! Dont know what parameters to use to model the heating.. did not come with the TS parameters. are there some rought figures?

and port velocity port vel.pdf

thanks...but do you see the SPL.pdf? I cant ? I also have cone excursion and port velocity..also added a hp filter to redue excusion under 20 Hz cone ex.pdf

Hi... So I picked the Infinity Perfect 12.1 . It seemd comparable to Dayton titanic 12" and I got a pair cheap in Canada on ebay for under $100 each. (retail list is $400) I also got a Crowne comtech T400 250watts x 2 into 4 ohms for $150... have an electronic cross over or to use the HT receiver. Here are Win ISD Pro alpha results. Green in automatic WinISD result and red is my tweek. to reduce port lenth, increase efficiency... Please comment on the results if this is the right track before I cut MDF... Note PE is 350w but the design is with signal of 200w SPL.pdf

Was wondering if a pair of Tangent 20s with K74-K tweeter and K7K 8" woofer (plus passive radiator) would be a good timber match for surrouinds for an all Heritage system. I could build smaller sealed cabinets and just use the woofer and tweeter. The cabinets could be easily placed up on the walls (much easier than a Heresy!) Any ideas? theres a pair on ebay.

OK on the settings. I just looked so bad that I am scratching my head as to how home power can be that bad.... But once it is rectified and filtered by the capacitors in a power supply....Who cares? The harmonics get rectified too and just add to the DC... In theory , the higher freqeuncy harmonics would filter better anyway since a capacitor in series with the transformer winding resistance and diodes is a low pass filter.. I must be getting blind not to notice the Tek logo.... I personally have an HP 54501 Digital scope on my bench... got it on ebay about 5 years ago for about $400.. what a deal! Automatically measures voltager, RMS Peak, frequency risetime etc etc.

well I was needing a new DVD player....and since I only have a projector with Compnent input I did not need anything with DVI or HDMI...So I just got a Denon DVD2900 universal player on ebay for $250... It was top player in 2003-4 and am very happy with it. Check it on Audioholics or Secrets of HT...great reviews.

hello What was your scope settings...range, sweep time. attenuation setting How did you connect it to the wall outlets.. What kind of probe did you use. Did you calibrate the probe first. Nice HP scope...I sold lots of those...I still work for Agilent.

thats why CDs where invented...I hated scrates on my lps...even if the trick mentined worked at stoping gross skipping...the pop and click would be unlistenable...

Um putting up walls is the easiest part. its all the work ahead and after Heating ventilation, electricity, plumbing. header insulation, proper vapor barrier (what climate/temperature basements is this system made for? is it up to code in your area?). Building wall around obstructions, building around ceiling around obstructions etc. how much acoustical insulation does this system actually have? Will a subwoofer make it rattle? If you lack carpentry skills, you have probably never tackled any kind of renovation or basement finishing, then I would think that you should hire a contractor.

comming from a company that has been selling snake oil cables for a decade, I wouldn't touch it with a 10 foot pole!