Deang

Beautiful setup Jazman. I am a little concerned about the lamp sitting next to the right Belle. Don't you think that thing screws with the acoustical balance of the system

Kris- you need to up your medication and relax The AE-3 has nice big gummy rubber feet. Heck, I've got my stuff sitting on the floor right now less than 2 feet from the RF7's. Microphonics be damned!

I personally spoke with Dennis Had about the shunt volume control mod and he said it was "Kirk's thing". When I asked what he thought about it, he said, "I don't like it." He told me that any perceived increase in bass is due to "the midrange being pushed down." I sensed I had hit a sore spot with him.

The AE-3 is a tremendous bargain. It walks all over the Line 1. As I'm typing this I'm trying to scrape together money to buy another. I think everyone would agree with me that the oil caps make an already good bargain even better.

Mr. Hirsch never wrote a poor review for any speaker he ever tested. It was because of him I bought my Sansui AU-717 amp. He said they were "state of the art in integrated design". Yeah, right. What a fool I was. I was stuck with that stuff for years because of him. I never read another Stereo Review after that. This message has been edited by deang on 08-11-2002 at 10:57 PM

To do my DQ crossovers with the Hovlands is $573. A little too rich for my blood. Maybe someday. So Solens and Aeons it is. I think I will splurge on my 80uF caps and go with the AudioCap PPMF's -- but mostly because the value is dead on.

Thought I would pass these along since they seemed to have just about everything I needed in the way of resistors. Percy Audio had all my caps. NTE Electronics Global Electronic Supplies

Like most things in this hobby -- you just have to try it and see. I don't get the "stereo processing" feature though. I mean, how can you "turn off" stereo. Whether it sounds better or not, will to a large degree simply depend on what's really happening with that signal. If it's just a shortest path kind of thing but still utilizes the preamp section, it should sound good. If it's not using any of the buffering components in the preamp, it will sound relatively flat and uninvolving.

Sounds simple enough. So, how does doing this to bring in the proper ohmage value impact the watt value -- or does it? In your example, "A parallel ten and a five would be 1/10 + 1/5 or 0.3 -- in series 15." -- if the 10 and the 5 are both 5 watters, and they are put in parallel or series, are they then together still 5 watts -- or do I need to use two 2.5 watters?

Just wondering if some of you genius' have a favorite wire that you use for rewiring the drivers to the crossover boards?

I should have posted this here to begin with -- but the 2 Channel forum is where I live. What a completely frustrating experience it is trying to find exact matches for the resitor values that are on my DQ-10 schematic. I went to all the sources posted in the "sources" thread and then some. There is plenty to choose from in the low wattage arena, but as you climb up in wattage -- the selection shrinks down considerably. I also have the problem of finding the same type of resistor. The resistors found in the crossovers are the bar type resistors (sand or cement I can not tell for sure). The most trouble has been the 5.5 ohm 7.5 watter. I found a 5.6 ohm 7 watter. 30 ohm 5 watts, and 33 ohm 5 watts -- I found 27 and 30.9. These are Mills non-inductive wire-wound resistors, instead of the bar types actually used in the crossover. What troubles me is the thought that "close" may not be close enough. How about just a 4 ohm type. Jeepers, one would think these would be everywhere. I needed this in a 15 watter. After 45 minutes, I managed to find a 3.9 ohm. Much of this same type of thing seems to apply to the capacitors as well. I initially was going to buy the cap upgrade kit from Regnar for the DQ's, but thought I might save some money and get slightly better parts as well -- if I found them on my own. This isn't working out exactly as I planned. Good parts cost good money. The Solens and Wondercaps look like good values -- everything else is pretty much ridiculous. How about $56 for one 80uF Hovland? I've been mindful of Mdeneens statement regarding many "audiophile" parts just being repackaged generic goods. However, if there is a Solen generic cap -- I sure can't find it. I have to admit that this is quite a bit of fun. Sort of like working on a jig-saw puzzle with some of the pieces missing.

What a completely frustrating experience it is trying to find exact matches for the resitor values that are on my DQ-10 schematic. I went to all the sources posted in the "sources" thread and then some. There is plenty to choose from in the low wattage arena, but as you climb up in wattage -- the selection shrinks down considerably. I also have the problem of finding the same type of resistor. The resistors found in the crossovers are the bar type resistors (sand or cement I can not tell for sure). The most trouble has been the 5.5 ohm 7.5 watter. I found a 5.6 ohm 7 watter. 30 ohm 5 watts, and 33 ohm 5 watts -- I found 27 and 30.9. These are Mills non-inductive wire-wound resistors, instead of the bar types actually used in the crossover. What troubles me is the thought that "close" may not be close enough. How about just a 4 ohm type. Jeepers, one would think these would be everywhere. I needed this in a 15 watter. After 45 minutes, I managed to find a 3.9 ohm. Much of this same type of thing seems to apply to the capacitors as well. I initially was going to buy the cap upgrade kit from Regnar for the DQ's, but thought I might save some money and get slightly better parts as well -- if I found them on my own. This isn't working out exactly as I planned. Good parts cost good money. The Solens and Wondercaps look like good values -- everything else is pretty much ridiculous. How about $56 for one 80uF Hovland? I've been mindful of Mdeneens statement regarding many "audiophile" parts just being repackaged generic goods. However, if there is a Solen generic cap -- I sure can't find it. I have to admit that this is quite a bit of fun. Sort of like working on a jig-saw puzzle with some of the pieces missing. This message has been edited by deang on 07-28-2002 at 10:02 AM

What is IPA?

Understood. No more touchy on the AE-3 until I know what I'm doing. Thanks!

I was bidding on an Eico last weekend and got cold feet, mostly because of this type of thing. The vintage stuff probably does sound great, but the pieces are old and due for failure. I think one really needs to have an idea of what is going on inside those things before wiring them up to our beloved Klipsch. Can anyone imagine anything more frightening than someone like me poking around in there. That's right, give ole Dean, "Mr. Fix-it", a whack at that thing! This message has been edited by deang on 07-27-2002 at 09:52 AM

Thank you very much guys. Great posts by everyone. I had read several online soldering tuturials before I started. I also practiced on the old PCB for about 45 minutes before I started. I didn't really use the solder as "glue" to connect the lead to the land. Once the leads went through the holes, I ever so slightly splayed each one. I didn't want to press them flush against the PCB, because I knew there might be the possibility of having to redo them. I wanted to make sure I could get them out with relative ease. When I said I used a "drop of solder" on the end of the iron before I made the connection -- it wasn't so I could "paint" the joint to make the mechanical connection, but simply to aid in the transference of heat. Using this method I was able to get the solder to flow around the joint after about 5 or 6 seconds. I have not yet had my digital camera returned to me. I will get it on Monday. What I will do is take some pictures of my "handi-work" and post them here for evaluation. If you all say "nay", I will start over. I would probably order another PCB from Cary (only $1.50), so I can start with a clean board. I agree that the AE-3 is a pretty pricey item to developing my skills on. However, it did look relatively easy. Of course, most things usually do look easy to me until I actually put my hands into them! Will I be able to you the Kester for soldering my new caps onto the crossover boards of the DQ-10's? I'll put my order in for the Kester today. Randy -- braid sucks! I was practicing with that stuff last night and the only way it would work was if I left the iron on the braid for 20 or 30 seconds. Too long!! Think I just need a higher wattage iron? This message has been edited by deang on 07-27-2002 at 09:43 AM

Can I flux the tops of my questionable joints with a pen and then go back over them with the iron? Or do you think it better that I desolder, clean the PCB and resolder? I was "told" a 15 watt iron would be enough. I guess it would have been if I'd used a lead based solder. I've been practicing on an old PCB and bare copper wire. I just learned about soldering pots to make tinning the leads easier. I think the reason my joints held up was because I hung a drop of solder off of the tip of the iron before I applied the iron to the joint. I didn't have any problem getting the solder to flow, and all appeared normal until I removed the iron. I talked to several people who solder without flux, as they said there is already flux in the solder itself. Isn't it possible if I left the iron on the joint too long, that the flux might burn away and leave me with a dry joint, as opposed to a cold solder joint?

I've been reading some online tuturials and practicing my soldering tonight. One thing I am not clear on is solder types. When I spoke Dennis Had on the telephone, he told me NOT to use any solder with lead in it. The only thing I could find at Radio Shack without lead was some solder that is 96% tin and 4% silver. So, now I've been reading about melting points of various types of solder and what not. I also found some pictures of proper and improper P.C.B. joints. I took the bottom plate off of the AE-3 off tonight and re-examined my joints. It appears I may have left the heat on too long, and probably used a little more solder than I needed. I have several questions. What is the proper solder type for audio connections? When I de-solder, there is solder on the wire. Can the wire be re-soldered directly, or should one clip the leads? More times than not I'm finding there is not enough wire to afford me the luxury of clipping away. All of the tuturials have contradictory information regarding the amount of solder to use on a joint. I've read everything from "a few milimeters" (which I find ridiculous unless the solder has the circumference of a garden hose), to an inch or so. How does one know "when to quit" feeding the solder? What should I be looking for that tells me to "stop". I can only get the shiny appearance about 1/2 the time. Usually I have to reheat the joint to get it to look right -- and then I get the teardrop effect. I just learned this means heat as been applied for too long. Of course, none of the material I'm reading tells me if this is "bad". I know the joint is not moving because I tape the wire to stop it from moving. I apply the heat, wait a few seconds, then feed the solder from the other side of the joint. It runs in, I feed about an inch of solder in, then pull away. The solder immediately begins cooling, and then the very top of the bead turns a little grey while the rest of the joint is silver. I can't for the life of me figure out what I'm doing wrong. I'm trying to figure out the "rosin" and "flux" thing. Should flux always be employed? Does all solder, regardles of "type", contain rosin? Opinions?

However, you will never realize the full potential of your RF3's until you get a set of Hyper-glizoid-molecular-aligned-cryo-silver-coated-lead-jacketed-speaker-cables. For less than $1000 -- they will really blow your mind.

I biwired again today after work just for grins and giggles. I don't know what to think. It sure looks cool though.

Seem folks can't get rid of these earbleeders fast enough

Welcome to the family drdiaboloco!

I received the same information from my local Klipsch dealer regarding the elimination of the Heritage line at some point. I did not hear any information regarding the Cornwall however. Logic dictates that if Heritage sells, they will continue to produce. It does seem completely odd to me that Klipsch would spend so much time finding replacement drivers and gearing up for production -- only to shut everything down. I think interested parties regarding this information should email Bob Gassel -- who has a reputation for being on the level.

Nothing directed towards you Boa. Just my opinion having gone down the road and what I have come to believe about it. It is an inexpensive tweak -- as long as one doesn't go completely goo-goo-ga-ga with the cable expenditure.

Scooting through the archives over at the asylum, I was left with the impression that inexpensive 12AX7 preamps really don't sound all that great. I feel that considering the original retail price of the Thalia, to build that same preamp now would put it around $1200 or more. It has a great sound, and comes with an excellent phono section. Sorry HD, although I don't mind getting into some 10 or 20 year old gear, I'm really not interested in the prehistoric stuff. As good as some of it might sound, I'm not really prepared to watch my speakers go up in smoke. As far as I'm concerned -- most of that stuff is just an accident looking for a place to happen. Let's face it, nothing lasts forever. I am by no means locked into this decision. I mean, if it ends up not sounding as good as I expect, I can always sell it and go for the tubed preamp later. At this point though -- I'm not overly concerned about it. I sent checks off for both the Aragon and the Thalia earlier today -- I won't see either unit for a couple of weeks. The DQ-10's show up on Tuesday.