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Deang

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Everything posted by Deang

  1. Well Craig, the ears don't lie -- so I accept what you are saying. ------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Metal drivers make metal music shinef>c>s>
  2. "...Again I realize that Sony doesn't make the greatest decks..." They do now. With the bizarre compression scheme employed by MP3 it does seem hard to believe it could sound anything but mediocre at best. I don't know how old your Sony is -- but I guess it's not beyond the realm of possiblity that well done MP3 might keep pace with the sound of somewhat older DAC's. Which ES do you have Craig? ------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Metal drivers make metal music shinef>c>s>
  3. Hgs10 ------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Metal drivers make metal music shinef>c>s>
  4. I knew I wasn't going to vertical biamp because of the differences of the two amps. I was going to horizontal biamp -- putting one on the tweeters and the other on the woofers. My question was really just asking what advantage vertical biamping had over horizontal biamping. Thanks for the link Mobile -- I'll dig in later this morning. ------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Metal drivers make metal music shinef>c>s>
  5. Tripod -- Maybe you could go back and read my edited post. After some reflection I just decided I couldn't let it go without saying something. Maybe some thought should be given to why the line was added in the first place. ------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Metal drivers make metal music shinef>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-26-2002 at 09:10 PM
  6. Kenrat Please change your topic title and remove the reference to a bundle of sticks. I'm afraid Forrestgump2 may ask that you be banned. BTW -- I believe they should declare the Declaration of Independance unconstitutional, because it includes the word(s) "Creator", "Supreme Judge", and "Divine Providence". While they are at it, they mind as well declare the Constitution unconstitutional. Heck, "The Bill of Rights" has been turned into the "Bill of Privilages". As far as "Separation of Church and State" goes, the Supreme Court's interpretation of that is completely bogus. As most know, this verbiage cannot be found anywhere in the Constitution. Where it is found is in a letter from Thomas Jefferson to the then leader of the Danbury Baptist Association who had some legitimate concerns regarding the meaning of the 1st amendment. Thomas Jefferson wrote him back saying that the intent was to put up a wall between Church and State. The thrust of the letter was to reassure the minister that it was to protect the Church from Government, to stop it from drafting legislature that might allow Government to impose its will upon the people through the Church. When looking at the first amendment, it is also clear to anyone not having been brainwashed with all this getting God out government nonsense -- that the intent was to prevent Government from making any law that favors one religion over another. Keeping Government separated from the Church is one thing, keeping the faith(s) out of things Government is something else entirely. This idea that the Framers intent was to keep things of God out of Government is completely ludicrous. Everything from the Federalist Papers, to the Declaration of Independance, to the Bill of Rights (which is the list of things given to us by the Creator) -- clearly shows the Framers intent to include God in the process of independance and governing. Should we also now include laws that say no one of any religious faith can run for office? I mean, God forbid anyone bring their religious bias' into the governmental process. So, whether Muslim, Jew, Christian, Hindu, whatever -- all are protected from Government, and no one religion or denomination has to worry about Government making laws that favors one over the other. More often than not, a good thing gets taken too far. Government should recognize the Divine Will -- the Framers sure did. f>s> ------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Metal drivers make metal music shinef>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-26-2002 at 09:05 PM
  7. Poor Mobile...I feel one coming on myself.f>s> Trespasser The answer my friend is blowing in the wind... If you are going to do HT, then you need the decoder. If you are doing straight up 2 Channel, then find a receiver that has a 4 ohm rating as part of its specifications, stack your KG's, and be done with it. BTW -- If you stack your KG's, you won't need a sub f>s>------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Metal drivers make metal music shinef>c>s>
  8. I'm sure many of you remember my AE-25 Super Amp having been outfitted with a volume control by the previous owner. When I tried running it CD direct with both my Anthem CD-1 and Marantz DV-7010 -- I found the sound somewhat compressed and thin sounding. From this experience I deduced that I would probably not be one to go for the sound of a passive device. Well, last night I pulled my SF Line 1 out of the rack so I could clean the tube sockets and swap the 6922's around because I'm trying to track down that slight crackling sound I hear at low volume levels. After I pulled it out, I was thinking about some of the posts from the past, and some more recent, about passive devices. I started thinking about gain and impedance matching and just said the hell with it and hooked the 9000ES into Super Amp inputs. I didn't have time to listen last night, but when I got home today I gave it a whirl -- not really expecting much. Hey, if you don't expect much, you don't get disappointed. I am now feeling somewhat confused and a little unsettled because what I found was a completely different experience than the one I experienced the last time I tried this. As a matter of fact...I feel hard pressed to tell any difference at all between running CD direct and having the Line 1 in the system. I'm at a complete loss to explain this. Later tonight I'm pulling all my manuals out to compare the numbers between the Sony and my other now departed decks. I will probably listen to it like this for a couple of days and then throw the preamp back in. It would be nice if I found I could live with CD direct, that way I could put the Line 1 with the DJH Super Amp I have coming next week. Gee, sure hope I win those Klipschorns f>s>------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Metal drivers make metal music shinef>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-26-2002 at 07:42 PM
  9. ...options of 500hz and 1000hz absorbive sheetsf>s> I'm sorry, but that has got to be one of the most ridiculous things I have ever heard. This is what I did: I used my daughters full length mirror and laid it against the side wall adjacent to the right channel. I sat down at the listening position and looked into the mirror to see if I could see the drivers. I kept sliding the mirror along the wall until the drivers came into view. This area on the wall is the source of the first, or primary reflections from the drivers. I repeated this procedure for the left channel. I then found some packing foam at work, already sized in small rectangular squares. I took my RF7 grills and turned them around and set the foam inside the grills -- then set the grills against the side walls where the mirror dictated the first side wall reflections occured. I really didn't want to change the sonic character of my RF7's, but instead just wanted to do something that seemed reasonable. Any soft material will do to absorb wall reflections, and this material will effect ALL frequenies to some degree. To what degree will be determined by how much you use. When I get my digital camera back, I will post a picture. f>s>------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Metal drivers make metal music shinef>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-26-2002 at 07:48 PM
  10. It's actually a great question and we had a great thread on this some time ago.f>s>. Why do we use preamps? Enjoy. It's a kick butt thread.f>s> ------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Metal drivers make metal music shinef>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-26-2002 at 06:38 PM
  11. uhh...that ringing takes place quite a bit higher than 7Khz. It's actually beyond the range of audibility in a tweeter. There was extensive discussion about this at the Asylum about a year or so ago. If you don't mind me asking, where did you get this 7Khz figure?Just for the record. Klipsch Reference Speakers use air core inductors in the crossover. As far as the discussion in general, I don't see so much the strength of horns being in the reproduction high level dynamics, but more so much in the area of microdynamics. Their strength lies in their ability to take low level detail and push it to the top. The quieter, low level elements of the music are brought up to a level where they can be clearly heard. f>s>Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Metal drivers make metal music shinef>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-26-2002 at 08:01 PM
  12. What, this one too tough for the 2 Channel Forum ------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Metal drivers make metal music shinef>c>s>
  13. I was out at the Cary Site earlier reading Dennis Hadd's link at the bottom of the home page regarding vertical biamping with two of his Rocket 88's. Pretty soon here I will have two Super Amps, and I figured while I have them both, I mind as well biamp and see how it sounds. What I don't understand, and what he doesn't explain, is WHY go vertical biamping, when horizontal biamping achieves basically the same thing without having to resort to goofy "Y" interconnects in order to combine the inputs of the amps. Anyone have any insight into this? I am curious about the impedance characteristics of the individual drivers when you biamp. If I put one amp on the tweeters, and another on the woofers -- are both of my amps still seeing a nominal 8 ohm impedance, or something all together different? ------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Metal drivers make metal music shinef>c>s>
  14. The TLC-1 is a nice unit, though for that same $600 you can get a pretty decent tube preamp from www.audiogon.com. I decided some time ago that the use of a preamp nets better sound, especially in the areas of dynamics and HF detail than passive units. I think most here feel the same way. ------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Metal drivers make metal music shinef>c>s>
  15. The killer is that potential buyers have to factor in $350 - $700 for packing and shipping costs. I can do $2200 max. ------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Metal drivers make metal music shinef>c>s>
  16. Tubes will last about three years, give or take 6 months. I based this on a little over 3000 hours of total usage. The power output tubes will go first, followed by the drivers in both amp and preamp, and then, the tubes for the buffer stages. It's not really good to power on and power off everyday. OTOH, it's not good either to leave them on all the time. The best approach, and the one I use -- is to schedule your listening time. I leave my gear powered up for four days and powered off for three. I listen Monday-Thursday and kill it Thursday night before bed. Too much chaos around my house through the weekend -- so this works best for me. No sonic risk at all running any combination of SS and tubes. Most folks find the greatest benefit in a combo situation by running a tubed preamp with SS amp. Of course, both tubed preamp and tubed amp is better than combination schemes. f>s> ------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Metal drivers make metal music shinef>c>s>
  17. I bought the 9000ES and decided to keep it based just on it's Redbook performance. Seems to me there is quite a bit of classical on SACD. f>s>.------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Metal drivers make metal music shinef>c>s>
  18. What in tarnation is a triode wired pentode? Let me guess -- my AE-25? Hey, you know what I just found out? The DJH version of the Super Amp is class A/AB. What's up with that? f>s>------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Metal drivers make metal music shinef>c>s>
  19. Now Ray, I was really trying to avoid bringing up the issue of fluctuating impedance with frequency. Now you went and muddied up the waters He's right though. But it's better if you don't think about. Just know that if a speaker is rated at 8 ohms, it mostly is, even though is may dip down to 4 ohms or lower at a certain frequency. It's usually only for a mirco-second though. This idea of wiring two sets of speakers in 'series' or 'parallel' is more applicable to us old hippies who used to stack our 2 sets of Advents and drive 'em until our receivers caught on fire. Think of wiring 2 sets of speakers in parallel as being the normal way of doing it. You stack two speakers, hook'em up to the left channel, then grab the other two, stack'em, and hook'em to the right channel. That's parallel. Doing this with 2 sets of 8 ohm speakers changes the impedence to 4 ohms. 'In series', you hook up one set of speakers to the reciever as you usually do, but then you do something really different with that 2nd set. This works best if you keep the extra speaker used for each channel close to the first one -- or else you will have cable everywhere. You use another speaker cable (usually a short jumper like a foot or so), and connect the extra speaker directly to the connectors on the rear of the speaker that is already connected to the receiver. You do the same thing for the other channel and like magic, you now have two big ole 8 ohm speakers. You could wire your KG's this way -- but you would only have about 30 wpc. It would however be easier on your amp, and maybe 30 watts might be enough. At any rate, you can also go ahead and just hook them up to the spring clips on the back of the sub, which would be in parallel -- and run them at the 4 ohm impedance your amp normally sees, but like Ray said -- be careful. Don't drive it to loud and get that receiver. f>s>------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Metal drivers make metal music shinef>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-23-2002 at 10:51 PM
  20. ...I was thinking of using a pair of Marantz ma6100 THX Ultra Certified mono-blocks for one speaker rated about 125 watts. Should I use one amp for the tweeters and the other amp for the woofers (bi-amping)....OR....should I bridge the amps together...f>s> Tom is right. To biamp with a monoblock you would need four of them -- one for each driver. In order to 'bridge' you have to have amps that are bridgeable. This term is applied to stereo amps that have a left and right channel, and a switch that combines them. You are talking about mono amps that only have one channel, so what is there to bridge? What you want to do is get two of these monoblocks, one for each channel -- and then birwire, which is simply running 2 additional speaker cables for each channel. Four cables come off the binding post of the amp for the left channel and go to the four binding posts on the back of the speaker (negative/tweeter, positve/tweeter, negative/woofer, positive/woofer). You repeat the same for the right channel. Also, like Tom said, you can buy four monoblocks and use one for each driver. However, you don't need an active crossover if you tie right into the back of speaker (because you will be using the crossover inside the speaker). f>s>I am still a little confused to how bi-wiring works? you mentioned the "MIT Terminator 2 Bi-Wire cables from Audio Advisor...How exactly do they work? What does the passive network box do?f>s> If you read the MIT white papers you will lose half of your chromosomes. What they do is deliver signal engergy as in-phase power.f>s> Currently I have 8 AWG speaker wire running from the amp to my KLF-30's. Can I run 2 strands of wire to each speaker or do I need the passive network box?f>s> The network box is something specific to MIT cables and has nothing to do with biwiring. Just my opinion, but you should be using at least 12 gauge zip cord for all your speaker connections. BTW, you will need (4) fours strands to each speaker!f>s> Tom saidf>s> An outboard crossover is definitely needed when bi-amping otherwise you would be relying on the natual frequency rolloff of the drivers which may not sound the best.f>s> I don't understand what you are saying here. If you have two amplifiers, you can biamp by simply designating a channel for each set of binding posts on a biwirable speaker, and use the crossover in the speaker.f>s> Maybe MIT's passive networks have a kind of a high-pass and low-pass filter to prevent too wide a frequency signal going to their repective driver(s). I say this because the four leads coming from the passive networks are definitely marked "High Output" and "Low Output" (meaning HF and LF).f>s> The parts inside the networks are basically inductors. They are tweaked for HF and LF respectively, but they don't really do anything as far as tailoring the actual frequencies. There is no filtering, because the inductors are in-line with the signal, and not in the signal path.f>s> ------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-23-2002 at 10:05 PM
  21. Damn Trespasser, don't you trust me?f>s> ------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s>
  22. Klipschitisf>s> ------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s>
  23. Check these out. You can probably talk them down.f>s> http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cl.pl?miscrcvr&1029691234&class&3&4& http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cl.pl?miscrcvr&1029421997&class&3&4& http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cl.pl?miscrcvr&1028928142&class&3&4& http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cl.pl?miscrcvr&1027876203&class&3&4& ------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-23-2002 at 08:27 PM
  24. Well, as recently as six months ago I would have said you can never have too much power, and then I got sucked into this tube thing. Still, more speakers are blown by having to little power than too much. This is because a lower powered amp will go into clipping sooner and clipping will destroy a tweeter right quick. With more power, you have more headroom and can avoid clipping. Notice the KG 2.5's take 375 watts peak. The peak rating is closer to what music actually does. It goes up, it goes down -- the input signal is never 'continuous'. It would be tough to get 375 watt peak with a 75 watt reciever. So, you got these pretty nice speakers. You are probably going to want to do HT and multi-channel sound. More power would be good, but more power costs more money, and you are on a budget. Also, you need to know that not all watts are created equal. It's an odd principle to explain, but a receiver using discrete outputs instead of IC op amps will sound better and have more headroom for any given power rating. I would take 40 watts of Onkyo or Sony ES over 100 watts of Pioneer or JVC. I still think NAD comes to the top as far as receivers go. Why don't you buy a used unit. You can save big time money and get more receiver? You posted this in the 2-channel forum. Are you doing the HT thing with your next reciever and multi-channel sound? How about a 2-channel receiver with a 4 ohm rating so you can stack those babies and make some noise. f>s>------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-23-2002 at 08:17 PM
  25. The speaker determines the impedence. Most receivers are rated for 8 ohm speakers. The situation with a multi-channel receiver is a little different. There are 5 separate and distinct amplifiers inside, and each is designed to run a set of 8 ohm speakers. f>s>------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s>
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