Deang

I can't possibly imagine me driving one to those levels. I just landed one off of ubid for $429. Is the 'leak' problem the surround on the driver itself or just the gasket between the basket and cabinet. Is it just the active driver or the PR's also? ------------------ deanG

they are showing up on ubid anyone know why klipsch abandoned this design ------------------ deanG

just curious ------------------ deanG

Actually, you mean the RB7. Here it is: ------------------ deanG

I cannot possibly imagine anyone buying SB3's over the RB5's. The SB3's sound about what one would expect at that price point. RB5's sound like speakers costing $2K or more. Enjoy the great sound of the RB5's now and get your separates later! ------------------ deanG

I have no experience with the Carver stuff - but your main concern seems to be the power issue. Too much power is better than not enough. Speakers are typically damaged from amplifiers being overdriven rather than being fed too much power. I ran RB5's for some time with a 200 watt amp and they loved every watt This message has been edited by deang on 12-27-2001 at 09:16 PM

It was said to me recently that the small subs with the class D amps and equalization circuitry have a tough time accurately reproducing in the 30 - 50 HZ range. I was told that since they are tuned to play so low - they dog out on music in that critical range. What say you submeisters? If I wanted to buy a sub for Rock music (strictly chest thumping purposes) - which one should I be looking at? ------------------ deanG

...compared or heard a set of RC7's in comparison to the RF7's. Outside of the bass of course - is there any real difference in their sonic signatures? ------------------ deanG

Power button feels O.K. - I mean, it goes 'in' and 'out' like it is supposed to but it doesn't do anything. Is this a mechanical failure of the button or could dirt cause this? ------------------ deanG

I am somewhat fanatical when it comes to my gear so the amp is in excellent condition with no scratches or dings. On occasion I pull the cages off of my gear and blow the dust away. The Luxman was just 'cleaned' last month. The amp is a bipolar design using Darlington radio grade transistors in matched pairs. The amp is a high current design, carries a two ohm rating, and is bridgeable - that is, it can become a 'mono' amp. This makes it a good candidate for someone looking at the SVS subs. I paid $1300 for this amp new and I will let it go for $375 + shipping. ------------------ deanG

Having recently purchased a B&K 4420 - I've decided to part with my Luxman M117 200wpc amplifier. I bought the B&K because I had never heard a MOSFET amp before and curiosity got the best of me. I have spent the last week comparing the two amps to one another. I could not keep both and had to decide which one to sell. I believe the B&K to have a 'fuller' sound with more authority in the nether region. The Luxman is actually smoother sounding although a little 'thin' or 'flat' sounding in comparison. I could actually live with either amp but the B&K is 'new' to me if you know what I mean. I am somewhat fanatical when it comes to my gear so the amp is in excellent condition with no scratches or dings. On occasion I pull the cages off of my gear and blow the dust away. The Luxman was just 'cleaned' last month. The amp is a bipolar design using Darlington radio grade transistors in matched pairs. The amp is a high current design, carries a two ohm rating, and is bridgeable - that is, it can become a 'mono' amp. This makes it a good candidate for someone looking at the SVS subs. I paid $1300 for this amp new and I will let it go for $375 + shipping. ------------------ deanG

Which amp would you keep? H&K 4420 - 225 wpc MOSFET design. Luxman M117 - 200 wpc using Darlington radio grade Bipolar transistors. I have to sell one of them but I like them both for different reasons. The Luxman has such a smooth sound. Yes, it's electric velvet - but alas, no balls. The B&K beats it on the bass hands down - but it seems a little grainy in comparison. The luxman weighs about 25 lbs more than the B&K. The transformer is massive. Sure wish I knew more about amp design. What do you think? For the first time in a long time I have no idea what to do. Dean, This message has been edited by deang on 11-26-2001 at 03:58 PM

Why are you filling our board with clutter? A simple post telling us where to find you would have sufficed. I for one would appreciate an apology for 'invading' our board with your nonsense. ------------------ deanG

About a month ago I posted that I was buying an Anthem AMP1 45 watt tube to mate with my RC7's. I had commented that if I didn't like the bass I would take advantage of the RC7's biwirable crossover and just biamp instead - putting the AMP1 on the horns and my Luxman 200 wpc SS amp on the woofers. The experiment failed miserably. In fact - it sounded pretty bad. I'm not even going to waste keystrokes trying to describe the sound - but trust me - it don't work. So - I just put the Anthem 'tubey' with the RC7's and left it that way - giving my ears a chance to get used to it. I tried running it with my Boston PV1000 sub and ended up liking the sound better without it. This kind of surprised me. Well, Now I had this extra amp I wasn't using, and a sub that was just sitting there. I had recently upgraded my DVD player to a Marantz DV7010 and got thinking that I was really only a preamp and speakers away from another decent system. While I was shopping for a preamp on AudioGon. Earle Decker decided to sell his B&K 4420 - and always wanting a good MOSFET amp - I gobbled it up. I got lucky and found another Anthem Pre1L and scooped it up. That left getting the speakers and I was just about out of money. What to buy? I decided on a set of SB2's to mate with the PV1000 and B&K. After trying every different combination possible I ended up doing the following: We live in a Cape Cod and so the whole upstairs serves as our bedroom - below is the system I built upstairs: Klipsch RC7's Anthem AMP1 Anthem Pre1L Anthem CD1 Toshiba DVD Player 27" Mitsubishi Downstairs system: Klipsch SB2's PV1000 Subwoofer B&K 4420 Anthem Pre1L Marantz DV7010 32" Toshiba I will probably upgrade those SB2's to a set of RB5's before January. What I think is that tubes sound magical. I don't have the lower end control that the B&K or even my Luxman gave me - but I don't care. The lows are good enough and the mids and sparkling highs make up for it in spades. I have no idea what people are talking about when they talk about the 'rolled off highs of tube amps'. The downstairs system is primarily for HT now - though the SB2's sound surprisingly good hooked up to that B&K 4420. It's a nice dark, rich sound. ------------------ deanG This message has been edited by deang on 11-12-2001 at 12:07 AM

I may be a CCNA but I don't know squat about code. Under the FAQ of this site (and many others) it shows you how to use ubb code to link to graphics files at other sites - fine. But then goes on to say that you cannot attach files. So how did iwillwalk attach the JPEG image here: http://216.37.9.58/ubb/uploads/iwillwalk/moonovermanhattan.jpg ------------------ deanG

ooops - wrong forum This message has been edited by deang on 10-21-2001 at 04:05 PM

any concensus yet on a verdict? I'm especially wondering if a cheapy SACD player playing SACD will really sound better than my $$$$ Anthem CD1? ------------------ deanG

thought it might be time for a change of pace - sitting here listening to Alice Cooper's Welcome to my Nightmare on my Sennheiser's and out of the blue wondered what other 'normal' folks listen to - ------------------ deanG

If the speaker is rated at 8 ohms as a whole - what happens to the impedance of the drivers if I biamp? I am thinking about driving the woofers on my RC7 using my SS 200 watt Luxman - but running the horns with my new 40 watt Anthem. I would just use the already in place connectors faciliting the biwiring option. Know what I mean? But I'm wondering about the impedance. Since I'll be using two seperate amps - does that mean the impedance will go to 16 ohms and so cut my power in half? ------------------ deanG

or another way of saying it would be: Do the KLF 20/30 Series and Heritage speakers share the same basic sonic signature? ------------------ deanG

The RF7 is 102db/w and the RC7 is 98db/w - isn't 4 db/w a fairly substantial difference? Looking at them, the only difference is that the RF7 has the 2 10's and the RC7 has 2 8's - It would seem that if the RF7 is more efficient because of the 2 10's - then we should expect to find them overpowering the horn somewhat - but that is not what I hear when I listen to them. They are very well balanced. If we say the RC7's are less efficient than the RF7's for the same reason (because they have the 8' instead of the 10's) - than we might expect to have the horn overpowering the 2 8's - with a balance tipped to the highs. But I don't hear that either when listening to the RC7's. What accounts for the difference in efficiency? Is the horn in the RC7 'throttled' back somewhat using the crossover? ------------------ deanG

... and was just curious what some of you think about that. I will be using the Anthem AMP1 with 40 watts pushing my beloved RC7's and I truly have no idea what to expect. I mainly did it because I already have the Anthem Pre1lL and CD1, and at the time I bought them I could not afford either the Anthem tube amp or the hybrid design they make. I recently ran across the AMP1 at a fantastic price and could not pass it up. I'll still have my Luxman M117 200Wpc SS amp and I figure if I disappointed with the 'punch' factor I can always biamp - using the Anthem on the horns and the Luxman on the woofers. At any rate - what is the verdict? Are the differences in tubes vs. SS overstated? let the flames begin ------------------ deanG

...a pair of RC7's as mains? ------------------ deanG

I like to watch movies after the kids go to bed - and well - the one year old likes to stay up with me. She always seems to be on a different schedule. Debbie usually can get her asleep around 10 or so and will lay Temple on the couch. The problem with putting her in her own bed is that it resides on the second floor and it's just not really safe to do so since we are downstairs. Deb will then hop on the computer and I'll pop my DVD of choice in - and then come the complaints. "Too loud...still too loud...lower...lower" - and right about the time the volume level hits the acceptable level - I have to press my ear against the drivers to hear anything. I decided I need a set of headphones. I learned that most decent headphones are designed for listening to music and not watching movies. Why is this a big deal. Well, I wear glasses. Most headphones I tried out were horrible when wearing glasses. Most headphones designed for my budget did not sound all that good - or were very uncomfortable. Now a funny thing is - I remember many years ago that decent headphones always sounded better than decent speakers. And very good speakers were usually compared to headphones. I spent all day looking for a set under $100 that could best my Klipsch and I couldn't do it! Some of the highly rated ones sounded very mediocre to me. The bass on both the Grados and Sennhiesers sounded artificial and exaggerated. The surprise of the day were the Sony MDR-V600's. A full size, very comfortable fold up design. A very crisp and clean sound. Highly recommended ------------------ deanG

Today started out pretty much like other days - listening. Ever since I traded the RB5's in on the pair of RC7's I've been becoming more and more aware of the differences. The one and only area where I had felt the RB5's actually sounded better was in the balance of sound. The RC7's seem a little 'hot' sometimes. With some material they come off sounding a little 'thin' - as with most things related to sound it is difficult to peg down. Now I had been using the high pass crossover on the sub and with the RB5's this certainly was the superior configuration. Using the high pass with the RB5's really opened them up. The high pass on my sub is 6db/octave @90Hz, which I believe put the RB5's down -3db @45hz. I'm usually not a big fan of the high pass but with the RB5's it definitely sounded better using it than running them full range. So...when I hooked the RC7's up I just figured on using the high pass again - I mean, sounded better with the RB5's - so it's bound to sound better with the RC7's right? Well...huh... I got to thinking (still trying to recover) - and was looking at those bad boys and thought that maybe I was cheating them. Even though they are only rated to go 3 cycles lower than the RB5's - there is a lot more speaker there. So I figured what the hell. So, out with the high pass and in with the full range signal. Too my dismay the 'all there' sound is back and though still a little hot at times - it certainly sounds better than going through the high pass on the sub. Where the RB5's benefited from having the bass knocked out from under them - the RC7's almost seem to need it. Any two-way speaker benefits from the reduction in IM the high pass provides - but then I guess the 2 1/2 way RC7 isn't your typical two-way either. ------------------ deanG