AceDeuce

Gran Centenario Plata for margaritas; Sauza Hornitos when I'm out of the Plata. El Jimador Reposado is nice for sipping. I'm not into the $70 tequilas.

I use Audacity (with the lame_enc.dll encoder) and it'll do this job pretty well. From what I've heard the LAME encoder isn't the best even though it suits my needs (voice podcasts). iTunes can certainly do it, too, and the quality might be better. http://audacity.sourceforge.net/ http://www.apple.com/itunes/download/ Audacity Beta 1.3.2 (Unicode) seems very stable. I've yet to have it crash, unlike 1.3.0 Both of the above are FREE

Slim Devices Squeezebox. Got one last week. Love it.

I flipped channels and caught this in the middle. Amazing music. The guy playing the six-string bass was outstanding. I wish I'd Tivo'd it from the beginning.

Nice work. I'd love to see more pics.

I have an HLS center that I'm not using. I stripped the vinyl and covered it in oak veneer. It looks pretty decent. If you want it to match the 820s you can just paint it black. $100 plus shipping and packaging. I also have 4 610s and 2 410s if you're interested. PM me.

For those of you who post URLs to web pages (on the Klipsch Forums or elsewhere) and notice that the actual address is sometimes many, many characters long, there's a simple solution. . . www.tinyurl.com . . . will take ANY size URL and shrink it to a very manageable size. My own trivia related forums are normally reached at: http://www.totallylivetrivia.com/cgi-bin/Blah/Blah.cgi But tinyurl shrinks it to: http://tinyurl.com/45h2q It's a great service. It's free and no advertising. Try it and you may like it. Mark

While you're at Parts Express, enter "dust cap" in the search box and you'll find a bunch of them. Paper, poly, 2 in. to 5 in., and they cost between $1 and $2 each. No need to live with missing or poked in dust caps.

I defer to Dr. Who. My experience was tip and ring short, but my memory is fuzzy now that I try to remember where I knew that. The good thing about this forum is bad information is usually corrected quickly. Sorry for my mistake.

I have a pair in my kitchen. Don't even ask why. I just do. Here's how they measure: 11/16 plywood (including veneer) back is 5/8 in. high front is 2 3/8 in. high Rectange is 12 1/8 X 14 All corners are mitred, and there is a glue block 3/4 X 3/4 X 1 1/4 in each of the front corners. Any other questions, just ask.

Another woman said: KG4 --> Quartet --> Heresy I or II --> Forte I or II --> Chorus I'd switch the position of the Heresy and the Quartet. And there is a Chorus and Chorus II. I think you'll be hard pressed to find any but the KG-4 in your price range. It's possible, but you might have to be patient. A non-Klipsch alternative might be a used pair of JBL 4311s. If you go that way make absolutely sure that all the drivers are operating. Tweeter rebuilds are $120 each and woofer rebuilds are $270 each. Replacing anything in a Klipsch is a bargain by comparison. Good luck.

A double RCA to either a two or three contact 1/4 in. phone plug will work. If you use the three contact (stereo) phone plug, the connector on the amp will almost certainly tie both the tip and ring contacts together. No harm to your player. It'll be fine.

Wire nuts (aside from sounding like a really disturbing medical condition) are fine. They just look tacky.

Lucas, Prince of Darkness

Don't forget Chorus (or Chorus II). I got a beautiful oak pair from a member here and they eat Heresys and even Quartets for lunch. Your room sounds like it was made for Khorns. I wish you had the $$$ for them. I wish I had the space for them.

I'd rather wear a REAL Timex than a FAKE Rolex.

Shure EC2. They're about 9 dB more sensitive than most headphones or earbuds and that makes a huge difference with my iRiver (who made or makes the iPod). They're about $100 and I'd never think of using a mp3 player without them.

You're right, Frz, it shunts across the woofer output and when I took it off (it fell off actually, the leads were total spongecake) the PCB underneath says 68 MF. So that part is cleared up. I'll dig up some kind of 68/70 uFd 100v NP here locally, but does anyone have an opinion on what would be better than "any old cap?" Since these XOs come out the back, they're easy to get to. I wouldn't mind at all replacing all the caps on the "it can't hurt" theory. And on the same theory, I'll condition them just to make leok happy. BTW. . . the speaker sounds fine without that cap, but then I never claimed to be a golden ear. I just like music. Oh, and while I have the attention (I hope) of the XO mavens, can anyone tell me if measuring DCR on a cap is a worthwhile metric for matching them? Since caps have 10% or even 20% tolerances, maybe matching DCR will give me at least a chance of getting two that are ballpark similar. Thanks, again, in advance for your help. ---------------------------- Your post crossed mine, Bob. Thanks for your help.

There's a blue capacitor in my new Chorus crossover that looks leaky and the leads are corroded and loose. It's an radial type (leads both on one side) with a blue plastic insulator. Size is about 9/16 X 1 1/4 inches. The marking shows "6 8 uF" with no "." between the 6 and 8. My guess is that it's a 6.8 uFd (sorry, I don't know how to make a micron in html) because, in my recollection, a 68 uFd would be MUCH larger. It's 100v NP. The only other markings are 13k (insulator, I suspect) and the initials "T I." Please confirm that this is a 6.8 uFd and, since I'm replacing it anyway, what brand would you guys recommend? Thanks in advance for your help.

. . . the Lacquered Oak Chorus that I bought from GUNMAN on these forums. I am very, very pleased. Nice contented smile eclipsing all the rancor of the election. As much as I liked my Quartets and Heresys, the Chorus are a whole 'nuther thing. No more weenie speakers for me. . . ever.

That would be BGW. The guy was Brian G. Walker or Wilson. I remember talking to him once or twice back in the 70s. I can't remember why, though. Powerful solid state amps. I have no idea how they compare to what's out there today. Google "BGW Amp" and you'll find a lot of links. BTW. . . welcome to these forums. ----------------------------------------- Wachner. Brian Gary Wachner. And they're back in (still in) business: http://www.bgw.com/ I'm sure they can help you.

Over a forty year period, experimenting with Dynaco, Eico, Leak, Scott, and Harman Kardon tube amps, I've tried different output taps and never really noticed a difference in sound. As dodger noted, impedance varies with frequency (even more than he says, actually) and it may be that any advantages of proper tap selection are more theoretical than factual. I'm sure others will feel differently. When I used nominal 8 ohm speakers, I used the 8 ohm taps. When I had 16 ohm Tannoys, I used the 16 ohm. But it was more of a "might as well do it by the book" thing, than any real conviction. Of course, working on AA Fuel Dragsters and years of Rock n' Roll have probably taken their toll on my ears. I may not be the best one to judge.

Behind every outlet or wall switch in your home is a wire-nut or other kind of inline splice. If there were any but a negligible amount of resistance that splice would be a fire hazard. Splicing a speaker wire operating at a few volts should be just fine. It just looks tacky, is all. Solder, as far as I know, only oxidizes on the surface. I don't want to start another discussion about current at audio frequencies traveling on the surface of the conductor. But. . . I haven't heard of even the tweakiest of audiophiles saying that they regularily reflow the solder connections inside their electronics be be certain of that "pure" sound. A solid mechanical connection, nicely done solder, heat-shrink tubing. . . good as new.

Sometimes, as a result of having been severely overdriven, the cone can partially detach from the spider, or the cone from the surround. This can result in a really loose and floppy cone. Both the damage and the resulting bottoming happens most frequently in a ported box, which lacks the "air spring" to restrict cone motion. What you can hear, in my experience, is a sharp "crack" noise, not really a dull thud. Most drivers can be driven to bottoming, but if you hear it at less than extreme levels, you probably have the "partially damaged" speaker that you asked about. Look into it.

The instructions come with the replacement diaphragm. It's a piece of cake. Just three nuts to take off. And it's a LOT cheaper than a new tweeter.