TheEAR

As always Jackson...INCREDIBLE input! This looks like the narrator who's doing Bin Laden voice overs in his recent clips!!

I am here to monitor fanatical posters in the BS forum and get under the skin of the infidels. [] Seriously, I am here to monitor the subwoofer forum. Why would I stay all these years on Klipsch forum,maybe because I find the Klipsch sound quite to my liking. []

Artto, Yes you may very well have very fine acoustics,the finest? On this forum yes. There is still road to travel to have THE finest. What I have is the most capable subwoofer in a home install. And I will travel further to reach where no sane human has reached.

With subs pro amps are the way to go to power them. I like Velodyne but when you compate the amp they sell with a pro amp of the same price,you get alot more with the pro amp. You can get a QSC PLX2 3602 or RMX5050 both beat the caps,transistors and resistors off the Velo. Whe I started looking for viable power amps for sub duty it became clear and fast,pro amps are the best choice. I would NEVER take a pro amp over my trusty SimAudio MOON W5 for two channel audio ,but for sub duty the RMX5050 beats the W5 with ease. For sub duty clean output ,alot of clean output DC-100Hz counts. Who cares the amp does not qualify as liquid in the midrange..who cares? It has only to deal with frequencies often 80hz on down.

This looks like the box with the four 18" Fi BTL's in the SMD SUV. The tune is not the lowest,main goal SPL monster .

I think they do,call them. Before you buy anything inspect the driver to make sure that is the source of the rattle and the problem.

Internal rattle! I would take the driver out, inspect the driver,it may be a driver issue. Any kids home that may have used the port as hideout for various objects? Maybe it is just "undesirable" items inside,agan take driver out and inspect(always unplug the sub to do this).

Any receiver or preamp/processor can be configured withrelative ease in the menu to handle the number of speakers you want to use. Five speakers with a 6.1 or 7.1 capable receiver or pre/pro not an issue at all. You go in the menu and select 5.1.Today even modest receivers have more flexibility upscale models from a few years back had.McIntoshmaking only upscale units you should have all the options to set it up to meet your needs.

The Integra DTR9.8 is a very good performer on all fronts,I just purchased one for my PC(you read that right) sound system. I have tested this unit in my systems driving Dynaudio and Klipsch speakers. The amp section is quite competent for a receiver,the sound quality very good. Video section is great,as expected with a upscale receiver.Connections on the back panel plenty for all but the most complex systems. The two extra zone outshave sub outs,very welcome. Overall a great buy at the price it retails for. Often people will pay a good deal less making it a major great deal.

The good Dr HSU, why is there a bad doctor HSU? [] I will have to buy two of the new sealed 15's they offer,tempting and a must own.

Nearfield placement for the MBM should work best in most rooms,try it. The MBM is a small and light weight unit,not a chore to move around and experiment. I would stick it in front under the center channel,or use it as center channel stand. []

You want LOUD, quantify LOUD. To some loud starts above 90dB ,others over 100dB and yet a few who are hard of hearing ~110dB. LOUD is relative. A single RT-12d can get plenty loud in a room your size,try one. Set it in the proper spot where you get teh most even bass at and around listening position. With proper placement a single mid sized but capable sub can acomplish alot.

A great plasma beats a great LCD by a wide and very obvious visible margin. A great plasma combines the color rendition qualities of a CRT tube with teh precision of an LCD. An LCD is not even close to matching a plasma's color gamut. When it comes to a natural window on the world,ne it fiction or Discovery channel HD...the plasma beats the LCD each time. I have now a Pioneer KURO 50" and a Sharp AQUOS 46" ,the Pioneer KURO puts to shame all LCD's and beats all competing plasmas(these do alot better than LCD's). And I have both sets adjusted properly,calibrated. A calibrated plasma is simply gorgeous.

The Royal Device is older than the internet itself. [] I have The Sealed Array of Devices... [] That will do.

Localisation it is. However a "sub" crossed above 150Hz is a bass module. I the pro audio world "subs" roll of sharply from 30Hz down. These are used in the woofer's range and since they work as a team with larger sats mounted on top or sit spread below the mains it is fine. In a home system a crossover point this high (over 150Hz)simply does not make sense. Since when would anyone serious use sats not capable of a a solid 80Hz extension??? I am always refering to home systems,as this is not the pro audio section.Even with all my subs spread across the fron and side walls I cross no lower than 80Hz,as it stands at 60Hz. The ideal crossover point sits where the mains/sats are not stressed by LF signal(even close to the max XPL they are capable of) and the sub(s) can not be locaised (blend in perfectly).Only tiny sats work better with a higher crossover point.

Electrical engineer. WOW I am in awe of his knowledge. Just him arguing about a "sub" being crossed this high tells me he needs to learn to stay in his field. A sub woofer is a woofer responsible for reproducing the frequency below a simple woofer.In this case commonly 80Hz. Anything over 100Hz starts to get quite directional. I hope this engineer has more know how in his field or serious accidents will happen.This fella has little concept about directivity! A crossover point of ~250Hz is very directional,250Hz would be from a woofer to midrange. Even bass modules are crossed lower! High crossover points are used in cheap PC speakers as the sub is not capable of much below 50Hz and the sats use 2" full range drivers limited to 1-1.5mm of Xmax.

MBM modules do well when placed next to mains in front IMO. You can free the mains from work under 80Hz and let the MBM work 40-80Hz.

It is useless overkill,will not improve anything at all. If you had very long runns and at least an amp capable of 8KW per channel with speakers capable to take that much power maybe. A little VSX-812 ...10 or 12 guage is fine. I use 10 guage 15 ft runns off Crown iTech6000 and QSC PL380 power amps capable per channel of more output two Pioneer receivers can on all channels. Why not use the thickest wire thickness you can buy(used to send juice to automotive power amps. []

These will be used for ground control of crowds...playing the BROWN NOTE! Demonstrators will poop in their pants and run. Vote MeeKain or suffer the BROWN NOTE. []

Correct box size is dictated by driver parameters supplied or measuring the driver(this is not a real option as you would have to buy gear to measure).

Cambridge SoundWorks or M&K have little extension,low output to be of much help for large Klipsch Heritage speakers. It is funny people with HUGE mains have no space for a matching sub or a four pack of subs capable of keeping up to 124dB @ 20hz @ listening position.Large Klipsch mains deserve much better than a tiny sub. It only looks funny,like matching wheels from a Toyota Tercel on a Porsche 911 Turbo. Read my signature again people...I FLIP WHEN I HEAR A SYSTEM .... LACKING BASS. Yes I know I am crazy. []

Also a reminder... DIY Cable sells the X series sub drivers,unless I am mistaken they have the 12" and 15" on special,amazing buy. Longer throw compensates for smaller piston area. Just to keep you informed on the various roads you can take to reach the goal.

I can guess you have other gear connected and the other gear works fine. It is not an electrical problem...sub amp problem. You had bad luck, sometimes it happens. If you have a surge protector with ~2000 plus joules rating you h should not worry. I had two Sunfire subs die on me,one in one day the other in ~ month,bad luck and I got lemons. Heck I even had a JL Audio f113 amp go bad (connection),that JL replaced (whole sub). You see failing electronics do not ahev a price tag,you may have a little Sub10 or a multi G sub and it may fail.

$300 is a very limited budet. Here only a little plate amp applies. This said you can get surprisong performance still,I would get Mach 5 Audio new MJ18 revision 2 driver. For around $150 you have a great driver,now for ~150 you should be able to find a nice plate amp,the canadian made Bash 300 would be ok,or better an O Audio(check the best pricing)would be better as it has a PEQ built in(big advantage).I would go sealed(quite compact ~5cu ft) or ported (on the large side as EBS is the way). An 18" with a solid 15mm Xmax(each way) beats the little Sub10 with total ease. Sealed you have a great sub,ported you have a large monster that will stomp a Sub10 or Sub12 with utter ease(output). I would gos sealed,simple to build and with the O Audio plate amp the PEQ will be there to flatten the frequency response.

artto, Dynaudio makes cheap and overpriced speakers...for cars! Who told you these lies? Dynaudio makes some of the finest speakers ,that they do not suit your taste is another thing. SimAudio MOON W5 drivers Contour S5.4's and makes them sing.It is all in the match and you know it, take K-Horns andmatch them with a zippy japanese Technics amp...you will be running to mute it and fast. FYI The Dynaudio Esotec component speakers are the finest speakers designed for car use,you would have to use Audiotechnology coupled with ribbon tweeters(RAAL for example) to surpass the "cheap" Dynes. []