BillH2121

I have a Denon AVR 1705 receiver and Scientific Atlanta HT/DVR cable box. On the audio digital out settings on the the cable box, I have "Dolby Digital" selected (selctions are "HDMI", "Dolby Digital", and "Other"). In the last couple of days, certain channels including all HT and movie channels have no sound thorugh the HT system. If I select "other" instead of "Dolby Digital" in the box settings, then I get sound, but no dolby digital, just dolby pro logic. If I by-pass the Denon receiver, and run straight through TV, then I get sound when "Dolby Digital" selected. First, can I assume the problem is with my Denon and not the cable box since I get sound with the "Dolby Digital" selected when running through the TV and not the reciever? Two, have I got something selected in the menu of my Denon that's creating my problem or is there something wrong with the receiver? Thanks for any help as this is driving me nuts - and yes, I checked all my connects and wiring.

Get your checkbook out, have few drinks, and repeat after me: "McIntosh, McIntosh, McIntosh." An MC 2102 and C2200 will make you smile and solve all future upgrade problems - you won't need to.

Anytime you adjust the VTA (arm height) you'll have to recheck and probably adjust your tracking force. I use the Shure gauge, I think its reasonably accurate but likely never right on. To locate the cartridge screws, check with any audio equipment store that's been in business for awhile - chances are they have a drawer full of old screws from the numerous TTs they worked on "back in the day".

jacksonbart - please stop posting these highly controversial, emotionally-charged subjects. This one is bound to induce more bile-dripping responses and attacks than a tube vs. ss thread. ..........Oh yeah, I almost forgot....I do - but only if I hear it through my tube amp.

jazman - I thought the Scoutmaster could accomodate the 10" arm. [Later - Just checked the vpi site - I think you're right, Scoutmaster d/n list longer arm as upgrade - my bad] Raptorman - I took a look at your pics. First of all, nice stuff. Second, I'm going to do a little experimenting in a couple weeks and incorporate some of your suggestions. Thanks for the info.

I use the mirrored alignment tool from turntable basics. I run a black thread from the spindle to to the pointed arm base on my Scout TT - makes it easy to square-up the line on the alignment tool. After aligning with the mirrored tool, I've found that its also dead-on with the cardboard tool that comes with the Hi-Fi test record.

Joe - sorry to hear about your lost opportunity. I had a similar event occur a year or so ago. A guy agreed to trade my Mac amp for his Mac C32 preamp. After a week of waiting for him to ship, he finally admitted that he had changed his mind and didn't want to trade. More surprising to me - no one on another Board really seemed to think there was a problem since no money or merchandise had changed hands. I guess I'm a small minority who thinks a person should live by their word and display some integrity in life. Keep looking - you'll find a another great deal.

Well, it looks like I'm going to be the only person here to stand up for the Scout. I purchased a used Scout with the 9 arm for $1200. I put a Benz ACE cart on it and have been very happy with the results considering the relatively small amount of cash invested. Will I upgrade in the future? - sure I will - probably a Scoutmaster with 10 in arm and a Benz woodbody cart when I get a new preamp. But right now, its not a major priority. There seems to be a nice used Scout on Audiogon every week and I think that path is a good way to go money-wise and sound-wise.

I moved my Scout TT to a cheap audio rack a few months ago and the change in sound was surprising and somewhat counter-intuitive. I previously had my TT on a very heavy brass and glass table on a carpeted slab floor. On the table I layered foam computer mouse pads, a 30 lb garden tile, mouse pads, and then a two-layered maple cutting board with TT on top. When I got the audio rack, I noticed it was primarily wood with a steel tube inner frame and glass shelves sitting on rubber posts. I expected the sound would be horrible as is (glass shelves and all) - BUT, it seemed as if the sound opened up with added detail not present with the other set up. It wasn't a slight difference, it was a big difference even my wife noticed without my comment. It shouldn't sound that good without all the dampening, etc, but it does and I'm not going to mess with it.

Well crap - the problem occured once tonite, but just briefly. Don't know where to go from here.

Petrol - I haven't had much chance to watch TV the last few days, but my wife and daughter report that they didn't notice any problems. The cable to my box was not tight as with your neighbors, but it was running under all the speaker connects for the HT system as well as power cords etc running to the TV, cable box, dvd, etc. I rearranged so that the cable was not buried under the other lines to minimize possible interference. Another thing though is the cable company reburied my ourdoor cable on Tuesday - it could be that some of my problem was associated in someway with the outdoor cable. So far, so good - I'll watch this weekend and see if any problems. Thanks

ok - I'll check that - thanks

The last few days I've been having an on and off again problem with my Sony losing red color. The loss is usually preceded by some bands of light red across the screen and then complete loss of red color in picture - lasts a few minutes then goes away. During one of these problem periods, I played a dvd and there was no color problem. Am I correct in assuming that because the problem didn't exist with the dvd, this is a signal problem (line, box, etc) or could it be a problem with the set itself? Thanks for any help.

Yeah - I'm a die-hard Mac fan. I'm matching it up to my MC 2102.

OR.... just found a C42 that looks interesting on Audiogon for the same amount as the C41.

I floated this question over at AK - wondered what Boardmembers here think. I plan on getting a used C2200, C200, or C46 next year to replace my C26 preamp. I have the itch to get something now to fill in until I can get the higher price preamp. I noticed Audio Classics has NOS C41 for $1999. I listen to vinyl 95% of the time. Should I upgrade to NOS C41 or just wait. Anyone have experience with C41? I imagine the phono section of the C41 has to be much better than the ole C26. Thanks for opinions.

I changed to the ACE HO last year and currently use it with a Scout TT. I used Shure M97xE and my beloved V15 III prior to the Benz - it blows them away! Leo, the best is yet to come - wait about 40-50 hours till that baby gets broken in - you'll be amazed at the increase in bass and overall soundstage.

I still use a C26 with my MC2102 - I plan to upgrade in the future but I've had that preamp for close to 30 years and it still checks out great. I think you'll be pleased when you get your Mc amp and preamp cleaned up.

I used regular super glue to repair one peg and haven't had any problems with it since.

KlipsDude - if I accept your premise that a power source of at least 200 watts is needed to adequately drive the RF-7s, then I must also accept that a tube amp is, in all cases, insufficient power (since there are few, if any, tube amps putting out those kinds of watts) for use with the 7 and, therefore, no one with a tube amp should purchase 7s. I simply refuse to accept that. Again, I'm not saying that powerful amps don't sound good with the 7, I'm simply saying that a good quality amp with less that 200 watts can make the RF-7 "sing" and that people should not be dissuaded from purchasing the 7s simply because they don't own a 400 - 1000 watt rig. This argument, in many ways, spins into the tubes v. SS argument - are you saying that if you've got a tube amp, don't buy RF-7s? I really have to disagree with you on that and think the many people on this Board who enjoy tube amps with their RF-7s would also.

"It's hard for many to understand this with RF-7's, but if you want to go from good to superb, you are going to need an amp with atleast 200wpc or more with a very good amp, not a cheap one!!!!!!!!!! You will hear the difference in many areas, not just volume!!! It is what the RF-7's really need to sing in the superb sound enjoyment. I've been there, done it, and had to do it myself to get to where my RF-7's are today. For the RF-7's to give it's very best, there is no other way around it. It's very much worth it to give what the RF-7's need for it to sing superb from just plain good. " Quality, not quantity - both together are nice, only one is necessary.

Let me clarify my point - I'm not saying 400, 600, or a 1000 watts through the RF-7 sounds better or worse than 30, 60 or 100 watts. The only thing I'm trying to say is that a person shouldn't be discouraged from getting RF-7s just because he doesn't have or want the big power amp. My comments are directed at those who are telling people if they don't have at least a 200 watt amp, don't bother with RF-7s. I disagree with that - I've heard the 7s with a Conrad Johnson 30 watt tube amp and they sounded wonderful, but different, than with my Mac. I recognize that difference, but I would't recommend not getting the 7s if all you've got is the Conrad Johnson (we should all be that unlucky!!).

Recently, I've noticed a few threads regarding RF-7s that instruct the questioner of the need for "at least" 200 watts to make the RF-7 "sing". I believe this constitutes misinformation that may result in some looking to another speaker and missing the opportunity to enjoy the beautiful RF-7. I don't think the RF-7 needs anywhere near 200 watts to sound great. I have a Mac 2102 - a tube amp rated at 100 watts per side, but which, I understand, routinely tests at 120 -125 watts. I run my RF-7s on the 4 ohm tap and they sound fantastic in all applications I routinely use - symphonic, jazz, and classic rock played at loud (really loud) levels. According to the Mac blue eyes, I'm usually cranking around 10 watts - rarely 100 watts. As has been discussed here before, its not always the amount of power but the quality going to the RF-7 that 's important. To any of you who are contemplating the purchase of RF-7s, don't worry about running out to grab that 1000 watt amp - there are other alternatives - get the 7s, you'll like them. BTW - I have nothing against pwerful amps, I just don't agree they are necessary to run the 7s.

I'm not going to dive into the debate of which is better (I prefer tubes). BUT, for those of you SS people that truly believe tubes can't produce glorious bass, I offer the Mac 2102! It digs deep - and no constant need to adjust bias, etc. Just turn it on an enjoy!

I'm always a little embarrased to discuss my set-up compared to some of the others on this Board (especially Max!!). But, I run a Scout TT with a Benz ACE cart through a Mac C-26 preamp, Mac 2102 amp, and RF-7s. I listen to mostly jazz and some classic rock and classical. Lately, I'm really into Joe Sample's solo albums (without the other Crusaders). I don't possess the technical expertese to engage in the contining analog vs. digital debate - all I know is I enjoy the sound of vinyl immensly and I derive great comfort from the ritual of putting on an album and watching it spin as great music fills the room.