Southern

Welcome to the Klipsch Forum Mike, this is Ray. I have the same experience with my bi-amped Forte's, certain recordings sound great while others sound so-so. I might have to try using my tone controls for a change with the so-so recordings. Can't wait to hear your bi-amped Chorus's.

I would take the Ferrari since the Corvette comes with a Bose sound system. Sorry Willand someone had to point that out.

Welcome to the Klipsch Forum Michaelhigh and fellow Forte owner. Dont worry about the debate of SS vs Tube, I enjoy both. I modified my Forte's and I am powering my woofers with the Pioneer SS and the mids & tweeters with the Dynaco tube amp. I get the SS low end punch and the smooth mids & highs.

Thanks wuzzer for pointing out the dates of the threads, I usually don't look at them as you can tell.

I bi-amped my Forte's with 270 watts from my Pioneer SS reciever powering the woofers and 35 watts from my Dynaco tube amp powering the mids & highs. I have pleanty of punch and pleanty of low end omph as well as silky smooth highs. I spiked my Forte's and noticed that the bass has tightened up a little bit. After you get you spikes in try experimenting with the positioning of your speakers. I have very little toe-in and my speakers are about 13" from the back wall. Good luck and enjoy your Forte's.

Measure the restance of the midrange with it disconnected from the crossover. I believe that you were reading the resistance of the inductor.

Welcome to the forum. This link has many Dynaco documents: http://dynacotubeaudio.forumotion.com/basket-f2/ We are always interested in projects especially if you have pictures to post. Good luck with your project.

If you have a meter measure the resistance of the resistor that you soldered back on. Also measure the resistance of the midrange driver. If you don't have a meter then swap the midrange driver from the working speaker to see if the problem is with the crossover or midrange driver. Here is a link to crossover schematics: http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/130178.aspx

If I lived in Hope in the summer I would use my tube amp to hold a door open as well, but for the Chicago winters I perfer to use my tube amp to power my Forte's.

SkyDover, I would like to hear the XPA-1's someday, I've read nothing but praise on these amps. My experience with the RF-7's is that with alot of clean power they come alive, like a hidden subwoofer comes out to play. If you ever have a chance to run your RF-7's with a tube amp give it a try. I was very impressed on how smooth they sound with my Dynaco ST-70. I had a chance to listen to the RF-7II at a local dealer and because they didn't have any RF-7's I couldn't due a direct comparison. I did notice that they sounded too bright in comparison to the Cornwall III's. I was very impressed on how deep they dug. They sounded better then the RF-83's they had but my favorite were the Klipshorns.

SkyDover, Thanks for sharing your review of the RF7-II's. What are you driving them with and how much power do you typically feed them?

Klipsch recommends that the top mounting screw be a minimum of 1.75' from the ceiling which is were mine are at with no tiliting and with great results. I recommend the movie Twister to test surround speakers. Since the horns are angled 45 deg, I see no point in tilting the RS-7's.

Rugerdog, My computer screen only shows one photo. I e-mailed you the remaining photos of my DeanG RF-7 crossover. If all you are doing is adding a resistor to your existing crossover then don't confuse my modified DeanG crossover with the stock crossover. With modified crossovers it is common to use 2 parallel capacitors to get the correct value.

The DeanG mods use the round black mills resistors that replace the square/rectangular ceramic resistors that were stock. I tried to attached a photo of my DeanG modded RF-7 crossover. You can't see the parallel resistor since the mod requires that the resistors be placed on the back side of the circuit board since the new caps are much larger then the stock caps. Since the resistor is on the back side of the circuit board clearance is an issue so the resisitor is soldered in parallel on the side of the 2 ohm resistor. Since you are modding a stock x-over you can use ceramic or mills resistors, the mills are considered an upgrade over the ceramic resistors. By connecting a10 ohm resistor with the 2 ohm resisitor is the same as using one 1.66 ohm resistor which brings down the resonant peak a little. Since I purchased my RF-7's with the DeanG crossovers I can't comment on how the resistor mod will sound on a stock crossover. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

When I got home I realized that the audio feed was intended to be sent to my amp however in my mind I thought it was a millivolt signal so I had it feeding my pre-amp so I believe that I was feeding too much signal to the amp. When I get my Dynaco back up you are welcome to stop by and give my bi-amped Forte's a listen. I plan on a Chicago gathering in the future, I have a charcoal smoker and a decent rib rub receipe that goes well with a few beers.

I'm the one in the red Blackhawks shirt to my right is Doobie (Scott). Thanks to Mike & Mike for hosting a great gathering. I enjoyed the company & the speakers (industrial Cornwalls, custom Chorus's and the Emotiva sub was also impressive). I still havn't listened to stock Chorus's. I finished testing my tubes and fortuneately the least expensive tube (rectifier tube GZ34) failed the grid leakage test.

Mike, Count me in if you are still taking reservations. I'm only about 15-20 minutes south of you.

When I first bought my Forte's several years ago I thought why waste my time and money on upgrades since the Forte's sounded so good. Eventually I upgraded the caps in my crossovers (I also set them up for bi-amping) and noticed an improvment. Next I upgraded to the Crites tweater diaphrams and was impressed again with the high end. Then I upgraded to the Crites midrange diaphrams and was impressed on how well they blended with the Crites tweater diaphrams. Finally I installed spikes and noticed a tighter bass. Fortunately after all this time and money I am still enjoying my Forte's.

Thanks for the info.

I measured 160 deg. (using a IR thermometer) pointed at the output tube of my Dynaco. I wouldn't worry about the right channel being warmer then the left since you have more heat sources on the right side. Keep in mind your tube amp doesn't have heat sinks like SS amps which tend to dissipate heat more evenly.

Thanks for the input. I know what you mean about hearing loss over the years, I was at the Scorpions concert in Chicago recently with my son and his ears were ringing after the concert and I was thinking that they should have turned up the volume more. I will need to pick-up Slash's new CD to try on my RF-7's & Forte's. If you like very low bass I suggest Godsmack Faceless CD. There are a couple tracks that made my Klipsch speakers appear to have a built-in subwoofer.

My ST-70 is stock except for eliminating the selinum diode and replacing the quad filter cap, input and speaker jacks. I recall reading that the ST-70 is Class A up to 15 watts and Class AB from 15 watts to 35 watts. Since I bi-amp, my ST-70 doesn't get pushed that much.

Are the RF-7's bi-amped or are they straight off the XPA-2's? How much of the XPA-2's power have you feed into the RF-7's?

Nice set-up, I wish I had you as a neighbor. How many gallons can you brew at a time (15 gal)? Can you fit 8 cornelius kegs in your fridg?, I see that you have 8 taps.

Scott, Different type of tube amps run hotter then others (provided the output power is about the same). Class A tube amps tend to run hotter then class AB tube amps. My Dynaco is a class A so I just make sure there is nothing on top of it (especially a shelf) and use it as a room heater. My SS amp can run hot as well. Back in my college days my Pioneer's heat sinks would get so hot you couldn't touch them for any lengh of time, I never ran any fans on them just made sure it had pleanty of breathing room, after 30 years it is still working fine.