wuzzzer

If that sub retails for $1199 and you got it for $479 and anyone thinks the dealer made any money on it, I think you're nuts. If not I'm opening my own stereo shop tomorrow. Higher markups than jewelry apparently!

That would be best in your case. Technically 110Hz is a little high to set a sub because you run the risk of being able to localize the bass since the subwoofer is playing at a higher frequency than is ideal. Unfortunately if you set your sub's crossover much lower than 110Hz you'll end up with a hole in the sound between your crossover setting and the 110Hz lowest point of your Mirage's.

Hey neighbor! What amp comes with these? Is it one from Klipsch? I'm not too familiar with the THX subs. Got any pics?

Check your DVD menu to see if you can disable the audio signal from being sent through the HDMI output. Otherwise, why don't you want the audio going to your TV? Your DVD player will send the audio through both the HDMI and the coaxial digital out at the same time.

Set all the speakers to small including the fronts. Set the sub setting to LFE. If I'm not mistaken, setting it to LFE+main will send the lowest bass signals both to your subwoofer and your front mains. You want the sub to be handling all the bass in your case. Try setting the crossover to 80Hz or so and adjust up or down to what you like the best. Turn the sub's crossover as high as it can go (120Hz or whatever the highest point of it is) and let your receiver control the crossover setting. Connect the LFE input on the sub. Have fun and enjoy that sub!

For the sub I'd suggest the 20-39 PC-Plus instead of the PCi. I have the 16-46 PC-Plus and it is unbelievable how deep it goes.

Lots of nice looking wood in that pic! With my setup I could easily hide that sub behind my TV stand and no one would ever see it. Hmmmmm......

Fortunately with my setup it works great. That's the nice thing about a 2 channel setup, you don't have to worry about fickle things like distance adjustment of speakers. Just give me a volume up and down button and I'm set. []

That article is 50/50 as far as correct/incorrect. Generally a 10 decibel difference is said to be twice as loud. Generally, each time you double the wattage that a speaker will see a 3 decibel increase will occur. Your receiver is not always putting out 100 watts. Most people using Klipsch speakers are probably using 5-25% of the total output capability of their amplifiers at any given time. Your RF-35s will output 98 decibels with 1 watt of input, 101 decibels with 2 watts, 104 decibels with 4 watts, 107 watts with 8 watts, 110 decibels with 16 watts, 110 decibels with 32 watts, 113 decibels with 64 watts, 117 decibels with 128 watts. By comparison, a speaker that is 89 decibel sensitive would output 89 decibels with 1 watt, 92 db with 2 watts, 95 db with 4 watts, 97 db with 8 watts, 100 db with 16 watts, 103 db with 32 watts, 106 db with 64 watts, 109 db with 128 watts, 112 db with 256 watts, 115 db with 512 watts, 118 db with 1024 watts. So your speakers need 128 watts to put out 117 decibels, and an 89 decibel sensitive speaker needs around 1000.

I've had my Oppo DVD player now for a couple weeks, about a few days shorter than I've had my new TV. The model I have (DV-981HD) is an HDMI-only output, so in case anyone thinks they like the sound of my review make sure your TV has either an HDMI or DVI input that is HDCP compatible. It does not have any component outputs. One double-edged sword about the DVD player is that there are SO MANY options you can change around. Its a good thing because it allows for quite a bit of customization, but it can also drive you crazy trying to get everything dialed in just right. I've decided to leave most everything at the factory default settings and use the adjustments on my TV as far as color, brightness, etc., instead. I'm listening to The Wall on CD right now and it sounds excellent. I haven't done a worthy A/B comparison between the Oppo and my Cambridge Audio CD player however. You can select upconversion anywhere from 480p, 720p, 1080i and 1080p. I've found that on every disc I've watched 1080p looks the best. This is probably due to the 1080p native resolution on my TV. Older DVDs looks ok, but newer ones look fantastic. Star Wars III totally blew me away. The player is very thin allowing for installation in almost any place you could want it. The blue front panel display lights are cool and match my HK receiver nicely. The front panel lights can be turned on or off through the player's menu. I was able to pick up a refurbished player for $183 plus shipping directly from Oppo. In my opinion it is an incredible value for the money.

The biggest goal of a surround speaker setup is timbre matching of all the speakers used. An ideal setup would have 5 or 7 (or whatever number the x in your x.1 system is) identical speakers. I think the dynamics and capability of a tower speaker would overshadow any small difference in the horizontal dispersion of it. Considering the perfect blend it would make with the front mains, if you've got the space and the $$ it really is the best way to go.

My wife had an emergency appendectomy a few years back. Not a fun trip to the emergency room. Get well soon!!

Dan's 3.5s are on sale for $200 through the Minneapolis craigslist for anyone interested.

Me.

Wouldn't you want to leave the jumpers on and hook the RF-7's to the Bryston? I have never had a separate Amp hooked up to my Denon, but that was how I assumed it was done.[^o)] Correct, but the original poster said "I have my Rf-7's connected to my Denon 3805 receiver as well as a Bryston 4B ST connected in to the Denon for a little bump in power." It sounded to me as though the RF-7s were connected to both the Denon and the Bryston at the same time. I was trying to figure out exactly how he has everything configured so we could give the correct advice.

Inflation sucks, doesn't it? []

I suppose if I really wanted to I could hook up my Forte IIs AND my RF-7s AND my friend's KLF-30s and run them all at the same time along with my SVS sub. I think the Fortes will do just fine on their own, however. [] Plus the 56" TV will help things out nicely.

How do you have the RF-7s hooked up to both amps? Do you have the LF/HF jumpers removed and have the Denon hooked up to the LF and the Bryston hooked up to the HF or vice/versa?

Decent RCA cables are what you want. I looked at a pic of the back of your receiver and it shows the 7.1 channel inputs in the lower right section of the receiver's RCA input section. The outputs on your Denon DVD player should be color-coded the same as the inputs on the Marantz to make hookup easy.

From what I've read on here Outlaw has a great reputation and is recommended by nearly everyone who's had their gear. You ask how many WPC is it really putting out in 5.1? Probably MORE than 125 watts as opposed to other manufacturer's inflated ratings. Rotel is another brand to consider. A preamp/amp system can cost more than a standalone receiver and many times takes more research to figure out which components work best with each other, but it does give you the best flexibility as far as easily upgrading your system without having to start over from scratch as is many times the case with a receiver-based system. There are many sonic benefits of having a preamp/amp system as well.

Depending on the TV, some are set up to decode HDTV signals through the coaxial input on the back that is connected to an antenna that picks up HDTV channel feeds. No hdmi/dvi cables needed in this case. In fact my new JVC tv came with a coaxial cable splitter and a short run of cable to hook to the TV for this exact purpose.

Try it both ways and see what you like best. I have a feeling you'll probably decide on setting them to 'small' though.

Someone on eBay sells nice-looking Klipsch signs. I haven't seen them in person, though.

They've been reported.

Well, I went ahead and spent a whopping $7.44 including shipping for a 3 foot DVI-D to HDMI cable from monoprice.com I guess I'm not out much even if the pic quality looks the same. []