Z4!

The parrot probably needs to have his cage cleaned again.

Here it is resized to 650 pixels wide - I don't see anything wrong with the one dtel's wife posted though []

NICE looking pair of Cornwalls!

Sounds like a really good time! Nice pic!

<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> I'm not understanding this. Surely the mods you made were intended to improve the amps? Why would anyone alter an amp to make it worse? If someone happens not to like the "Mandeville," should he be told, "Ah, but you should have heard it in stock form"? In my experience, a gung-ho 100% SET fanatic is never going to be dissuaded from the topology no matter what other amp thoroughly trounces it, so have no concern. For those of you who are interested in the Parrot's droppings, let's look at Eriks post a bit differently than the Parrot did: Erik said:Since the amps I made were described earlier as being among those that are going to be in heavy rotation, I would think it appropriate to refer to them as the 'Mandaville amps,' or whatever you all prefer, but perhaps not 'Horus.' Here's why: Low-power single ended triode amps have not exactly been described in the most flattering terms here by some in the past, but the fact of the matter is that the amps I made are not really 'Horus' amplifiers. As some have modified Moondog 2A3 amps from the original design, the same is true with these amps and the original Horus. In terms of power and bass slam, the chance that they are going to be out-gunned are probably favorable. Moreover, if they are thought by some to be sluggish, overly detailed, weak, rolled-off, or whatever else compared to the heavier artillery (or ANY amp present), it would be wrong in my estimation to refer to them as JFL Horus amps. To do so would not only be incorrect, but unfair -- kind of like someone building a pair <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" />ALK ESN networks with DIY inductors made out of rusty iron wire that had been spray painted for insulation, and then hand-wound around a wooden spoon as a former (however, I would like to think my execution of the pair of monoblocks was not so haphazard as that) The point being that the DIY version of either the amp or the network is not an accurate representation of the 'factory built' version of the component. It is apparent that Erik is saying his DIY amps based on the Horus design were not made by JFL so Erik thinks it probably isn't a good idea to refer to Eriks amps as JFL's amps. Erik probably didn't/couldn't use the exact same parts (Cobalt trannys?) as the JFL Horus so Eriks amps are a bit different. Different by definition is different, not necessarily better or worse. What sounds good to one person does not necessarily sound good to everyone this is a highly subjective hobby. The Parrot continues to try to stir the pot with cherry picked incomplete quotes and general disinformation. [] Oh and Parrot you dropped: In my experience, a gung-ho 100% SET fanatic is never going to be dissuaded from the topology I know it doesn't fit your agenda but many on these boards have switched both from high power to low and low power to high. Have a great day! Is this site slow this afternoon or what?

FWIW I agree with sunnysal wholeheartedly (as long as you're gonna bi-amp)!

Of the three choices offered, I'd go for the 100wpc 2200. I'm sure others will advise to go with the 2600 and that is surely fine too; I'd just go more than the 50wpc if I had the option.

Can you post pics of the Moondogs...even if they are already spoken for? TIA

I'll add my 2¢ [] Good luck!

Cleanliness is next to Godliness. We even put newspaper under our cuckoo clock. That's cool Parrot, I didn't realize. That ought to keep you busy...be sure to check the paper every hour.

The Parrot's envy is obvious. His imagination is limited to soiling the newspaper at the bottom of his cage. (heartfelt [] of coarse!)

Via a google search: http://www.woodworkerssource.net/Merchant3/merchant.mv?Store_Code=WS&Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=Prima_Vera

Welcome to (posting) the forum! I haven't seen any RF-3s at ebay in awhile, there is a pair at AudiogoN offered at $400. RC-3s have sold at ebay in the past few weeks at $182 and $202. I sold a pair of RF-3s, a RC-3 and a pair of RS-3s at Craigslist a few months ago for $1000. Hope this helps and good luck!

IMHO the notes that sneak through would depend on at what speed said fan is revolving...[:S]

Terry Dewict at www.mcintoshaudio.com is an excellent bench tech and an autorized McIntosh repair site. His prices are reasonable to boot! I don't know if he does the screening though.

Sorry to hear about your surgery; here's wishing you a speedy recovery! Which Lexicon do you have?

I also trust Brendan at http://www.tubeworld.com. Not the cheapest but he really knows his stuff, test well and stands by what he sells. I'm going to have to check out some of the other tube purveyors mentioned!

THD specs are quoted at their best, which is usually at high power for SS amps, not at a watt or two (or below). If you contacted NAD's egineering department they may be willing to tell you what the THD is at a watt or less. []

This thread may be of some value: http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/679673/ShowPost.aspx

Bummer, I'm really sorry to hear that - I missed the earlier thread. I have heard the Magnum gear and it is really pretty good IMHO.

Great photos, thanks for sharing!

What are you replacing it with?

AudiogoN listings expire after 30 days, the post you replied to was from March... []

I'd go with a tube preamp for sure. There are several great options at many price levels. Off the top of my head I'd check out Juicy Music (natch), Wright Sound, Welborne Labs, Transcendent Sound, or Doc Bottlehead.

If not a Juicy Music offering you might check out the Transcendent Sound Grounded Grid! Not pretty to look at but a great pre at a budget price.