CO1

I'm still waiting to receive my Reference Sats but just based on specs alone the Reference Sats are a better speaker. I also have the big Reference speakers, a Synergy System 6 with better sub, ProMedia 4.1 and a fourth 5.1 system that I won't bother to mention because my wife made the decision on purchasing it. The speakers in the System 6 are also much better than the Quintets and would be a good alternative if the Reference Sats are too expensive. Personally I would not get a KSW-10 as there are other brands in the same price range with better performance. I'm not saying the Quintets are crap I'm just saying the other two systems are better.

You should try the ATI HDTV adapter some call it the ATI dongle. With the CAT 3.7 drivers you can select a 1080i resolution which would/should scale perfectly to your TV. The best thing to do is to go to the avsforum.com and under the HTPC section ask the guys if the dongle is working correctly with the 3.7 drivers just to make sure. A lot of guys are using it over there so it would be your best source for info.

A very well known Canadian ISF tech told me that out of the box Hitachi & Mitsubishi were the best with just basic user calibration. Panasonic was one of the worst out of the box but a good tech could make it look like a Pioneer Elite and Pioneer Elite was the benchmark for PQ. That's if you're talking CRT RPTV's now if you're talking DLP RPTV's it's a different story.

We need to post this in the ProMedia forum because those are the guys that would have it.

If you have a PC you could go the HTPC route which in my case will beat any of the other options mentioned so far.

If you can't totally control the light in the room get a DaLite High Power screen. One of the best deals out there is a High Power pull down. A lot of people buy it and cut the material off to stretch over their own frame because of the price difference in the manual and fixed High Power screens.

lol, sorry had to laugh at that one. I actually copied and pasted the TV from his sig into Google to see if it had DVI and was getting pretty pissed when I wasn't getting the results I was expecting for "Mirsubishi".

I'd stick with the Goo as the Firehawk doesn't impress me when you consider the high cost difference and the low PQ difference. A former co-worker has a Firehawk and it's nice but I don't think I would waste my money on it when you can get better PQ by using GOO and spending the money you saved on a better projector. At the Canuck Shootout there was no Fire Hawk on hand but there was a Greyhawk and it didn't fare too well. Here are the results. Da-Lite High Contrast Cinema Vision Goo Digital Grey Lite Da-Lite Hi Power Goo - CRT White Stewart Greyhawk Da-Lite High Contrast Da-Mat Parklands Plastic Behr Stag/ Pearlescence combo Celtic Cloth Of course the projector itself can have varied results from one screen to the next but I really don't see any reason to buy anything other than the top 3 unless you're shooting with the big boys.

---------------- Second best would be a card with component output and a tv with component input. I stole a graphics card out of my dad's older avid and tried it out with tremendous results. These cards are very pricey. ---------------- What component output card are you talking about? Second best way would be connecting your graphics card's VGA out to your TVs VGA in. (If you're lucky enough to have a VGA input on your TV.) I don't think his TV has DVI so S-video is the cheapest way to do this. If you have an Nvidia card look for a program called TVTool, gives legible text over S-video. Personally I would never use this because S-video is interlaced so your TV's average deinterlacer will be involved. If you have a Radeon the ATI HDTV adapter may be your next cheapest route. If I'm not mistaken the latest CAT 3.7 drivers has it working pretty well but I never had any real problem even when it first came out. Your last option would be a transcoder though more expensive it will probably give the best results but is the hardest to setup. The Audio Authority 9A60 or the Key Digital KD-VTCA2 are the two I would recommend. Of course you will need powerstrip to set up your custom resolutions for your TV as well as several other utilities that would be useful. If you go to use any methods other than TVTool/S-video I suggest you PM me because there is a lot to know not to mention little things like removing all icons from your desktop, setting your mouse pointer to auto hide after a few seconds or the proper color your background should be all of which help to prevent burn in on a RPTV. Anyway good luck and let me know if you need some info.

what graphics card? BTW check the name of you TV in your sig.

Me too please! I'd actually enable the screen saver on my HTPC if I had a Klipsch one. I already use the gold and black Klipsch logo for my wallpaper on my projectors so a screen saver would be nice. Ok enough begging now. Thanks.

---------------- I wonder if they would be timbre matched for the RBxx speakers? ---------------- Doubt it. The main thing is that your mains and center are matched. For the rears it's not as important.

Interesting info there Ear. I guess the Polk subs aren't too bad for the money. I once had an ear ache for 3 days after fooling around measuring different output levels. You better go easy on the testing or you will have to change your name from TheEar to TheEarAche.

Hey maybe that's what happened to my posts from back when I first joined! ---------------- Please name your topics like you would talk to your mother. ---------------- I know some people will be upset by this but if you want to stress yourself out go ahead. I don't consider this topic to be a joke but I did find the quote funny. Trey you should edit your post because it gives me a loophole to say anything I want. I use profanity with my mother and grandmother. Now before you all start typing I should mention that I do this because it reminds them of their dead father/husband who was the master of the four letter verb/adjective and they receive great enjoyment from it. He never spoke in vein nor do I use it in that way with them but he had a colorful way of speaking that never offended even the ones you would expect. The question I have is where do you draw the line? I have been offended in other forums by people who used no vulgarity what so ever. Does that make it OK? The religious quote by Marvel could also be offensive to some people so maybe we should delete this one too. It scares me when I see some people so quick to to jump on Ken, who is a contributing member of this forum in his own way, only to turn around and suck up to the Mod. What exactly is your motive? I'm guessing Trey is trying to convey that members should take care not to offend other members in order to keep this a friendly forum but I bet some of you have offended Ken with your replies. I guess that's OK too because no one swore. I probably have been offended by profanity more than any other member of this forum because everyday it is used on me along with threats of harm to my family and myself but you won't see me jumping on the take a dump on Ken bandwagon. I agree with Trey that this should be avoided but some people need to lighten up. I mean how do you cope in the real world because at some point everyone has to leave their bubble. If I have offended anyone with my response I apologize but come on guys this has to be one of the cleanest forums on the net let alone the endless filth you can find when doing a simple google search for an innocent topic. I'm sure someone will come back and cut everything I have said to pieces but that's exactly what I'm talking about.

Nice screen shots. I assume you went with the digital grey.

How big is the Do-Able? My screens are 60x80. I wanted to go with Goo but I don't have a wall I could paint. I had to go with a pull down which comes down in front of my TV. I'm guessing that the Do-Able is light weight so it would be easy to move.

mkl you should get the latest firmware for the X1 because I doubt yours came with it. You proably have 3.6 or 3.8 and the latest one is 4.1. Enjoy 4000 hrs of bulb life. Here is the link http://www.infocus.com/service/x1/software.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&

Waiting for new gear to arrive sucks but it could be worse. I have to wait for my dealer to get the stuff in which is no big deal but then they have to ship it to me which is where the real fun begins. It can take anywhere from a week to a month+ depending on how much freight is being moved. The whole time it sits in a warehouse until there is room on the plane. During this time I'm worried some drunken cargo guy is going to run into my stuff with a forklift. Last year I had 4 21-inch monitors delivered to me before I got one that wasn't smashed. Waiting is one thing but when you finally get it and it's fubar, that's when the real depression sets in. Enjoy your new gear.

I'm a little on the tard side too. I didn't like the color of the new ProMedia Ultras so I bought about 5k CAN worth of audio gear for my PC. That's system #4 in my apt not counting the ProMedia's I already have.

You don't have to split your sub out but someone mentioned that if you do and use both inputs you will gain 2-3dB. I don't know if that's true and I have not tried it out because I get enough complaints now as it is. would be interesting if someone could confirm this.

Sorry, didn't see your other question. The new version's MSRP is $100 US more.

"how many watts is it rated at max and rms" 1200w/400w RMS Yes that's a good price because the original version was considered a good price between $700 to $800 CAN.

I agree with dougdrake on this one. My bro sits 5.5ft from an 80-inch diagonal 4:3 screen. He is one of those dudes that likes to sit in the front row at the movie theater.

If I'm not mistaken all Pioneer receivers have at least 5ch stereo. I have one of the cheaper models, VSX-D511, and it has it. I know the latest consumer grade Pioneer models have it and I'm pretty sure all the Elites have it or at least the 53tx I have ordered does.

Refer to this post for some info regarding the RSW-12 and the PW-2200. http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=38778&sessionID={5782D875-F828-424C-B879-E6FBE1A52D40} The RSW-12 is a better sub than the RW-12 and it looks like TheEar favors the PW-2200 over the RSW-12, at least below 35Hz. I would assume the PW-2200 is the winner against the RW-12 especially when you consider that the PW-2200 TheEar was referring to was not the upgraded PW-2200 v2. I have not heard the RW-12 so these are just my assumptions but the RW subs are not the best Klipsch has to offer if you are looking to go that route. Personally I would choose a PW-2200 v2 over the RW-12 or RSW-12 which is why I have one ordered. TheEar of course is the man to give you the real answers on this topic because I'm pretty sure he has heard all of these subs and in my opinion is only biased when it comes to performance not brand. BTW was the PW-2200 that you heard the new v.2 model? It would say right on the box.