rlr267

I can't speak to the RF-7 because my wife cut off my budget before I got there. But, I do have the RF-82s paired with a RW-10 Sub and I can tell you it will fill a good sized room very well. I listen to an eclectic mix of music, from Celtic to 70's rock and 80's hair bands to blues. The combination sitting in a 20X21 foot room with 10 foot ceilings is amazing and everyone who hears it compliment the system on clarity. When I was shopping a couple years ago, the RF-35 was still available and only one shop in the Dallas/Fort Worth area had the RF-82s on the floor at the time. Lucky for me, they had both and while I am no audiophile, I really think I could hear a small difference, the 82s were more crisp in the high tones. I don't think you will go wrong with either the 35's or the 82's but I would lean more towards the 82's.

The RF-83 replaced the RF-7. The two are very similar and I am sure someone can give the technical differences, but the most notable physical difference is the cabinet is more narrow on the 83s and I think it is deeper too. Internally, if I remember correctly, the 83s have a new (read improved) tweeter. As for still being on the website, I think the RF-7s are still in stock at many stores, so that stands to reason. <> <>

I think you should dump the ML and get an RC-62 you will not regret it. Out of curiosity, if you are running a center channel, why not rears?

I have a new question. I have read post that say separate components are better than a single integrated receiver/amp. So, which of the separate components has the volume controls on it? I am still trying to power those four AW-650's I bought. I secured a 2 channel amp with enough power, but no volume controls. I can come out of my Yamaha's zone 2 pre-out but I need volume controls, alternatively, I can use the analog output on my CD and bypass the HTR altogether. So, what component am I looking for now. Any help would be appreciated.

This thread seems like a good place to ask my question. I have four Klipsch AW-650's still in the box that I just don't have anything to power them. So, I need a recommendation on a two channel amp that won't break the bank. I am running a 7.1 reciever inside, and think that since my outside speakers only have to do music, I could run cables from my CD player (Pioneer PDF-1009) which has both coax and optical outputs to two different recievers, one to my Yamaha inside and the other to a second high amp reciever. Then I could connect the outdoor speakers to a second 2-channel amp. I am thinking I need to run one pair of outdoor speakers to the "A" and one pair to the "B" switche. The advantages, if I am correct, are(1) I could choose to play one pair or both outside; (2) no need for a speaker selector on the outside speakers; (3) a second amp provides volume control for the outside independent of the inside (4) this setup would free up my A/B/A+B switch on the main/inside amp so that I could put speakers in the garage, master bedroom, my daughter's room, etc. via a speaker selector switch (considering the need of running more than one pair at any time on this amp (B switch mode) would be rare. First, am I correct on my application analysis? (IE: Will it work?) Second: Suggestions? I have a tight budget so I have to find used and even then, I am not going to be able to go high end.

If asthetics are a real concern, the Klipsch CDT-5800s are a great option too.

Are you looking to sell it as an all or nothing set, or will you split up? If you are willing to split it up, what color are the 83's?

xdetroitx, I don't know much about the RS42s but I have the RF-82s and RC-62 on a Yamaha. You mentioned only 100 watts 7.1 so probably the same one, and I can tell you it sounds great. You cannot go wrong with the RF-82s. I know the purist like the non-Reference line, but read a few postings in this forum and everyone tends to agree on one fact, the RF-82 is the best bang-for-the-buck. When you run set-up, the receiver will likley default the 82's to "small", reset that manually to "large" and then when asked during the set-up if you want bass to the sub only or to both, I recomment you select bass set to "Both", I stumbled into this by accident and not knowing choose these settings, it makes a huge difference. Of course that could be because my sub and mains are separated by 20 feet.

I am not sure if the line up, did the AWs replace the SAs? Either way, I have four AW-650s in my back yard, two on the patio and two on the corners of the house to cover the pool area. No complaints from the neighbors yet so I either don't play them loud enough, or they just sound so darned good they can't complain. I can't attest to rain, I live near Dallas we are in second year of drough but I can attest they hold up well to the sun and heat. [H] Worst case, if you are worried, they mount on brackets that make them fairly easy to remove, just put some banana plugs on your cables, and if the rare storm does appear, take them inside. Alternatively, mount them under the roof eaves so as to create a watershed, only blowing rain could reach them that way. P.S. AW stands for All Weather, 650s have 6.5 inch drivers, 500s have 5 inch drivers, etc. All have horns so they all sound Klipsch sweet. They are very efficient like all the Klipsh speakers too.

Diana Krall, now that is music that you can feel; try a little Mazzy Star or Nina Simone to go with Ms. Krall and the only thing missing will be a cold pint of Guinness. Although she is not a jazz artist, I have to give honorable mention to Liz Phair too.

Yes, the price I paid was for a pair of RF-82s. My dealer is just a few miles away and has to pass my neighborhood to get home, so I got real good service. He did not have them in stock and had to order them in for me, so when they arrived, he called and brought them to my house on his way home. I don't expect all dealers to act that way, and I am sure this one does not do that for everyone. Check for local dealers in nearby towns if you have to, but don't buy from unknown sources. You can get legitimate equipment with a little shopping for the same price as on-line (questionable equipment) if you consider the shipping cost. Here is what I did after I decided I had to have Klipsch. I auditioned a pair at a local dealer that has a good inventory, but not so good prices. Then I shopped around until I met Kelly (the dealer I bought from). Kelly told me that he would match or beat any legitimate price. I explained that I could buy from an unauthorized seller on-line for X price plus shipping. He grabbed a calculator and told me he could sell me speakers and save me a few dollars. Even after sales tax, and a higher sale price, my total came out a few dollars less than buying on-line and paying shipping. Plus, I have legitimate speakers, no B-stock, full warranty, and a dealer to talk to if a problem occurs.

The new Reference IV line is much smoother than the line it replaced and almost anyone on this forum will tell you the Series III line was superb. So, yes, the newer models are better, improved tweeters, and the speaker boxes themselves are different dimensions which unlike automobiles, is not just an asthetic change to make your model "the old style". You cited some prices, those are list. You can buy for less than list with some shopping. As an example, you reference $750 for a pair of RF-52s; I paid $720 for a pair of RF-82s. I had to call every dealer in town, but it was worth it. I have also heard other claims of similar deals. I love my RF-82s and think they are excellent for music. My application is 90% music in fact. If your dad has the room for floor standing speakers, I would highly recommend the RF series over bookshelfs.

"There is a boom that sounds loud but then there is a bass that shakes you and rattles your teeth. If you ever heard a locomotive pass with that bass you can barely hear but can defintely feel, that is true bass. The term Boom is for weak and lesser subs." Again, it is a matter of prefernce and application. I don't want my teeth to rattle and I don't want to feel my seat vibrating. I use my sub for one thing only . . . low frequency sound effects, if the crash sound real, then it has done it's job and that is all I ask.

Just curious...have you actually heard what a better sub can do in your main listening environment (aka, not at the store)? I have no doubt that you're more than satisfied and everyone has different tastes, but "volume" and "extension" are two very extremely different things. I just have a hard time believing someone has heard something way better and thought it was a waste of money...not trying to argue or anything - if you're satisfied then that's all that matters. Like you said, "different tastes". I personally don't want to feel the music in the phisiological sense. I think if you want to feel the music, listen to something that has soul and feel it inside. My application is 90-95% music and for that, I run only the front mains in 2channel. Don't get get me wrong, home theater is nice, and I love mine, but my speakers were selected based on the way they sound for music. The only reason I have a sub at all is for the occassional car crash . . . ie: the boom. I turn it on for movies, then turn it off when the movie is over. I don't even use it when watching the Mavs (there is a definate energy/vibration in the stands that no HT can re-create, no matter how big the sub). I think the question that started this was what sub would be recommended for the RF-82s, and I stand by my response. I have a RW-10 and it works great for my application and tastes, I will continue to think any larger sub would be a waste of money.

I have to agree. Klipsch created a real prize with the RF-82. As for the center channel, I wish they had made a RC-63. I have space constraints and a RC-82 would be too tall and the RC-64 was too long/wide. You asked about the RF-82/RC-62 match-up . . . I have the RF-82/RC-62 set-up and love it. Note, however, I use the speakers for 90% music (unless the Mavs are playing, then I may use more HT). As for the sub, I bought a RW-10 and it has enough boom for my use. I was told when I bought my system to get as big a sub as I could afford. Personally, that was poor advice and would have comprised a total waste of my money. In fact, last night we watched "The Island" and my wife had me lower the sub's volume. I think it all depends on how large is your room? Where will the sub be placed? And, how much bass do you like? I have a large room with my sub corner loaded and I am not a bass freak, so a RW-10 works great with the RF-82's in my application. But, that is for my room and my taste.

Thanks for the input. I do have a 300 disc CD player, so that is already taken care of and I don't need volume controls in the Master, patio, or pool areas. I was planning on either using the volume on the receiver or getting a speaker selector with volume controls on it. My question involves setting up to run all speakers at the same time for parties. At least the Main speakers in the house and the outdoor speakers at the same time. My yard is too small for the speakers I bought, so volume will not be a problem, the speakers running off the selector switch will be for background use only. If I am wanting to sit and enjoy music, I listen in the living room. I just want to be able to set music for outside when we are entertaining on the patio or having a few friends over to play in the pool. I know I could run into a speaker selector and power one pair of speakers at a time, or if it is an impedance matching box, run no more than two pairs. As I understand, to impedence match, the speaker selector uses some of the power to create an artificial impedence. IE: 100 watts output at 8 ohms from the receiver will be divided between the speakers (assuming I am running two pair) the power will be split 50watts per speaker, then the selector box has to create resistence and uses 1/2 of the power for that purpose, meaning only 25 watts makes it to the speakers. I don't need a lot of sound at the pool, but I want it to sound good and I just don't see these speakers operating well on only 25 watts. With this information, what amp should I use? I saw one made by Alesis that looks good, 300 Watts at 8 ohms X 2 and if I understand correctly, it has built-in impedence selection, so if I run 3 pairs of speakers at once, the amp selects the proper impedence. Is this possible? Should I get an impedence matching speaker selector anyway? What about suggestions on amps that will fit my needs without breaking the bank. I have everything I need, except the selector and the amp.

Summer is here and I still have not installed the speakers on my deck and pool areas. Here is the problem, I don't think my reciever will drive these speakers and I need an amp and speaker selector. So, I need advice. I have a Yamaha RX-V757 with two zone output, and pre-out on both zones. I am running a 7.1 Home Theater on the main zone but at this time, the zone B speakers are not installed. I bought four (2 pair) of AW-650 speakers to put outside and my wife wants to put speakers in the master bedroom area, so I will have at least 6 speakers (3 pair) and possibly more later that I need to drive off the Zone B selector. It is power assignable, but I would rather run to an amp and be able to run more than one pair at a time. My question is this: Can I come out of my receiver's pre-out jacks into a two channel amp, then to a speaker selector with volume controls then to the speakers? Or, do I have to find an amp with 6 channels output and use my receiver as the input source? Considering both options, which is best? I am on a budget too, I told my wife I could put the HT in for $1000, then busted that budget all the hell (when she heard the Klipsch speakers, she told me she wanted them even if it cost more . . . I love that woman []) but she now has me on a short leash when it comes to more audio gear. I know Onkyo makes a M-282 which is two channel 100 Watts per channel at 8 ohms (140 at 4 ohms). Anyone have an opinion on this unit? Alternatively, can anyone tell me if the Alesis or Crown amps are any good? Suggestions are welcome.

I think you may want to look at the CDT line of speakers. The driver pivots in a gimble and they tweeter articulates from it's position, so that the speaker can literally be aimed to any location (within reason). Of cousres as stated above, nothing will fix the problem if your sitting position is against the wall and you cannot get the speakers behind you.

I am sure that asking for CD/DVD recommendations will be similar to asking about receivers, everyone has a favorite. BTW, I am interested in recommendations for a new DVD player too (I am not HDTV and do not plan to buy one anytime in the near future), but I do want DVD/R with a hard drive built in. Is there one that will let me watch a DVD while recording from the Satelite? As for CD players, I have the Pioneer PD-F1009. It holds 300 CDs plus has a sigle play slot, but will not hot swap (a feature I wish it had). But it is user friendly and sounds good so I can recommend it.

You will get lots of suggestions, and IMHO, asking which reciever is best, is akin to asking who makes the best car, everyone has a favorite. That said, I was advised, and I think it is good advice, so I pass it along . . . get a reciever with enough features to let you grow, specifically, you want pre-amp outs for every channel that way, you can amp or not amp as you want later. I run the Yamaha RX-v757 and like it.

I'm with you there Buckeye. I have had my RF-82s just over a month too and love them. My use is 99% music and they are working from sun-up until late evening every day. I have only gotten to use them for two movies (we have a newborn, so movies are on temporary hiatus while classical, blues, and jazz music fills the void). I did like them for those two movies though and love them for music. IMHO, the Klipsch RF-82 is beyond a doubt, the best bang for the buck on the market. I looked at speakers that cost half what I paid for my RF-82's and speakers that cost 5 times the RF-82 list price. Nothing I looked at in the same price range sounded near as good, and those that cost substantially more, only sounded nominally better to me. Plus, they the highest WAF. (I felt like I was shopping with Goldie Locks, my wife said the RF-63's were "too skinny" and the RF-83's are "too tall" another brand was "too fat" , the Gallo was "too everything" whatever that means, and Blose "cost too much to be that small" . . . . ) Which is lucky for me, since I wanted the RF-82s and I wanted Goldie Locks to be happy. LOL

I did not hear the RF-63 but I have auditioned the the RF-35 and later bought the RF-82. It is not a fair comparison since the 35's were on the showroom floor and 82's are in my home but the 82, IMHO, sounds better than the 35 if that helps any.

First, I agree, if you can afford the 35's or 82's you should go for it I love my RF-82s (the 82's replaced the 35's and the 62's replaced the 25's). Like you, my wife limited my budget, but when she heard the 35's she gave me a bigger budget. How I wish the dealer had a pair of RF-83's that day. . . . If you have to buy on-line, buy from an individual on this forum. My personal advice is BEWARE of internet dealers. First and foremost, Klipsch does not authorize any dealers to sell via intenet. See the "Unauthorized Dealer" link at the bottom of every page on the Klipsh web site. Additionally, and this goes for more than just Klipsch, you have no way of knowing what is real and what is not. Counterfieting is a huge industry, certain countries who don't care about patents or trademarks can and will make counterfiets of anything. You asked earlier and I have not seen an anwer, about the retail on the RF-62's. The RF-62 list for $399 each and the RF-82 list for $499 each. The RC-62 list for $449 each. Dealers vary, some demand full retail others compete. Call around you have several dealers in Reno. Street prices vary but don't be afraid to ask for a discount off list. It's your money, the dealer doesn't make money unless he sells the product and smaller profit is still a profit.

I am going to get in trouble one of these days for this, but I paid $230 each for the CDT-5800's I bought. I paid $185 each for the 5650's. I bought them from a dealer here in the DFW area.

You should check the spec sheets to verify this, but I think the RF-35 and RB-35 have the same tweeter/horn (K137) and driver (K1123). If so, the RC-35 is designed as a match for either speaker. As for the RC-62 sounding/working better, I have read a few posts on this forum and another about the importance of matching timbre of the speakers. Most of these post were on another forum in regards to mixing speakers (ie: one brand up front and another brand for side or rear, etc.). I really don't know how much difference it makes one way or another since I am positive that even with the new tweeter, the RC-62 is going to be a good match for the RB-35 even if the RC-35 would be a closer match in tone/timbre. It will really come down to a personal choice. The best thing you can do, if possible is listen to both and even better is if you can incorporate your RB-35s into the audition. You may consider talking to a local dealer, see if he/she has one of each and if they will let you take them home for a day, even if you have to buy them both with the understanding one is coming back for a refund the next day.