Groomlakearea51

My vote's for Dtel; Cracker Florida style.. Get a 55 gallon drum, cut off one end, make a flap hinge, punch about 4-5 small holes to breathe on both ends, small hole on top on far end, maybe about 1"; put in a piece of expanded metal grill 'bout in the middle, stoke her up with Live Oak deadfall, fire her up, and when the coals are grey, put in your bird, dressed as you see fit, but with some Everglades seasoning, a pan of well water with a grapefruit or orange slices, and walk away. 'Bout every hour, throw in another deadfall stick, check the water in the pan, and sit back and grab another cold one and watch the game, etc.. After about 3-4 hours (small bird), or more as required, pull it out and it will be smoked, nice red/pink first layer, very moist, and good 'eatin'.

Quick thoughts from a "wood head"...[] The laquer shot from the factory was a #40 sheen to protect the veneer. A very good way for "resurrecting" laquered veneer (but not the easiest...) is to take the tops apart; not hard, just a pain, takes about an hour or so. Tape off everything that is not in "public view"., same for the bass bins, etc. Very, very lightly, using a hand sanding block and say about 400 grit, go over all of the laquered surfaces. Be very careful with the edgebanding. When completely finished, wipe them down with a very slightly damp rag with laquer thinner, and then wipe completely dry with a dry cotton cloth immediately. Let them sit for a couple hours and the shoot a very, very light coat of clear semi-gloss laquer. Let dry for at least 24 hours and put everything back together. Factory uses OPEX/ Valspar #40 semi-gloss laquer. You can use any semi-gloss laquer, but you will likely have to thin it and spray it with a fine nozzled spray gun (1.3mm is good). All that aside, if you don't feel comfortable with doing that, or maybe not have the experience you are comfortable with, or especially the tools (compressor, finishing gun, nozzles, etc.) you might be able to find a local woodworking shop/ cabinet shop who can do it for you. I have two concerns for you (based on a pair of KB's that had the same problem). First, would be if the previous owner used a polish, furniture oil, etc., and as Silversport mentioned, the laquer itself has been degraded, damaged, removed, or simply worn away, exposing the veneer itself. Quick test. put a drop of water on a horizontal "dull" part; if the laquer is intact, it will bead up and wipe away. If not, it will spread out a little more, and when wiped away will look like it went into the veneer. Just wipe it off well and no harm done. At least at that point you know what you are dealing with. Second concern would be that while the laquer was intact, it had become "milky" (or dull...) because of some polish, etc that got into it. In either case, if the laquer has been removed or degraded to that point, and assuming you want to to recreate the WL finish, they would have to completely and very carefully sanded, and fresh clear semi-gloss laquer, or a similar clear semigloss finish (urethane, etc.)applied. Hope that is of some assistance.

Michael (Colterphoto1) is correct; #40. Also, current manufacture for Klipsch is Valspar/OPEX. It's "SSG" or satin/semigloss, #40 sheen. To really get "exact" you would also need to obtain some of their black laquer primer. Both the primer and the SSG have to be sprayed, usually with a finishing gun. You can use a HVLP gun such as a DeVilbiss F3, etc. (I use a 1.3mm nozzle and it works perfectly. Short version: Very lightly sand the raw oak with maybe with 180 or 220, dependent upon how aggressive you want the grain pattern to be. Shoot the primer, and after it dries, very lightly sand again, say with 220, to bring out the grain, then shoot one or two (I do two) light coats of SSG. Factory also shoots one or two light coats #40 clear laquer on also to protect the SSG. It's a good idea, and looks great. If you would like, you can email me and I'll email you a photo of my KC-BB's that I just finished, and a "refinishing" instruction sheet. After dragging them around all over the world with me for 28 years, they needed re-doing. The end result is that they probably look like the day they came from the factory... Hope that helps.

Correct on positive from the amp to "red" on the terminal/binding post which then goes to the "red" input screw on the distribution block, and black to black, and so on. It's a polarity thing regarding the tweeter, and Bob Crites can explain it much better that I can.

You have email

The old 50% rule is also a good starting point. If you have a pair of speakers that are "rated" or it is suggested that the amp has a minimum of 35 watts, then look for an amp with 70 watts RMS. As you have seen on the forum, however, Klipsch are very, very efficient. Look at the SPL rating also. If a speaker, like a Klipschorn, produces 104 dB of sound at 1 watt/1 meter, then at 30+ watts it's probably going to get louder than a F-18 on takeoff... Klipschorn, as an example, is "max rated" at 100 watts (older ones anyways), I use an old 115 WRMS amp, but never have driven it past about 25-30 watts because the loudness simply becomes unbearable. Also, check your amp's specs, while it is rated at 110, what's it's "peak" power, or what does the manual or factory say it produces for transient peaks. Compare that number to the speaker's "peak" power handling capability. Lotta factors. I'm sure that when you've narrowed your search down to a couple of models, forum members with those types can help you make sure the amp you've got will either do the job, or give you suggestions for something that will drive them without any problems. Good luck.

Thanks Mike!! These are really great articles for those new to the problems that area associated with power problems, solutions and some of the technical "stuff". For those of us getting ready to go down that road of building a "room", HT room, etc., or simply interested in protecting our investments, well worth reading!

Mike's absolutely right!! After assembly with the GLS' types, I also got some large shrink tubing (in red and black) for the "metal". Thanks for posting the "heads up" on problems that can be encountered with using metal shell bananas (GLS brand). Selection was actually made due to the strain relief. I also use wire ties by the gross (they are cheap now), and make "harnesses" for the amps and speaker wire "bundles" to keep things organized. For any "new person", the #1 axiom should be, turn everything off, and unplug before doing any connections.

At the risk of "lowering the bar" for some of us "electrical challenged" folks, a very good article is in the November issue of Live Sound International: Denny Van Der Mulm's, "The Real World of Power Quality Problems - Outages and uninterruptible power". Van Der Mulm's article is, as titled, more focused on UPS systems, but is an excellent primer for those new to the problems of power. For a number of folks who may not be able to "mess with" their power until it leaves the wall socket (renters), or are not technically proficient to build something like SF, a line interactive UPS with an isolation transformer, while pricey, may be a good solution.

Agree with bananas, BFA's; also on eBay is a couple of folks who also sell the GL Audio ones; little more pricy, but are good quality. I've just finished upgrading my amps from their old original "insert then screw down" bare wire types to Dayton brand speaker terminal jacks/ binding posts that take both 12 gauge+ or bananas. Those came from partsexpress if I'm not mistaken. I have also converted all of my old "spade clip" terminal jacks/ binding posts on my Klipsch speakers to these "dual" types. Like Mr. Colter, I move stuff around all the time, it's extremely convenient, and I don't get the wire leads mixed up.

Rob; in re: "the insides will just get a healthy shot of flat black spray (I don't know why, they will never show" One reason that's a great idea is that, over time, dependent on humidity, etc., the unfinished or raw sides can absorb moisture at a different rate and can actually warp. Given your 'overkill', while probably unlikely, you never know..... On my Heresy's (and the K'horn restore/rebuild project), I always shoot a good primer on all non-veneered/non-facing, or inside surfaces. Seals them, and keeps moisture out, permanently. Also, Kriton has a great suggestion. In the absence of the stain you really want, you can always use the dye method. Go to www.joewoodworker.com for a good discussion and primer on the use of dyes. Hope that helps.

Only offered as "IMHO", but based on years of experience in overcoming problems with odd room sizes and geometry of the rooms (until we build the new house...!) Yes, it works, quite well (I have, essentially, the same "array" system). Depending upon the difference in the distance between the Klipschhorns and the LaScala's, the placement of the LaScala's relative to the horizontal "plane" of the array, and controlling the LS's SPL, the room can be slightly "tuned" in terms of directivity, and depth of the "nice" imaging area.

DTel's Wife and MD Brian You have email Thanks for the assistance,

There's also Bob Crites' type A crossover modification with the mid/tweeter rolloff at 4500 hz (using the CT-125's instead of the K-77's)? I've received a couple of great remarks from forum members about this method, and am planning to do this in a few weeks to a pair of 89' Klipschorns, and I'd like to hear more about how that works from others in different applications, particularly with LaScala's and also other Heritage series. Thanks!

I guess we'll see what MD's decision will be; in any event, Forum members who like to go for bass (or speckled perch) are welcome to visit any time! We have enough space at the "horse farm" for several travel trailers, and a very secure place to park the boat trailers right next to the ramps across from my office (See profile bio info). Lake Okeechobee's fishing is dramatically improving since the Corps of Engineers and the State of Florida finally decided to leave the Lake at it's natural height/ depth (good for fish) instead of using it as a giant reservoir (bad for fish) for Fort Lauderdale/ Miami..... Also, during the hurricane season, the unnatural high levels were extremely dangerous for potential flooding and dike failure from storm surges.

Very very nice! Did you also attach it to the wall?

Just put tonite's batch on; we'll see how it goes.... Murphy's Law prevails....... Thanks for your kind comment.

OB's right about not shipping; While the owner of the UPS store here is a long time personal friend, has always done an outstanding job for me to this point (and we insure everything), once something leaves his store, he has no control.... If you are interested, I will be leaving here (south Florida) for LR Arkansas on 27 December and can always take the I-10 route... Otherwise it's about a 16-18 hour trip from NOLA. MD, it's about 8 1/2 hours to Little Rock from Picayune, MS. We made the trip twice this year. Once to Hope, AR for the Pilgramage and to Hope again to pick up the Cornwall III's we won at the Pilgramage. We went onto to Little Rock for one night from Hope, so 8 1/2 hours is about right. It is a nice trip and can be easily made in two days. The factory is in Hope, AR which right off I-30 on the way to Little Rock. The Crater of Diamonds State Park is on the way. Who knows maybe you would get lucky and find a big diamond on your trip. Crystal Springs is really beautiful also, maybe you can spend the night there. Or check with some other forum members, maybe someone from AR will be heading this way around the same time. BTW, I have heard the Grooms Lake Area is unbelievable. We can always take I-10 and detour through MS, and if MD is interested, leave them with Dtel? 26/27th is for family reasons, carved in stone, and 18 hours from NOLA to Okeechobee is not worth it; fuel alone would cost MD almost what it would cost for the speakers. It'd be about 1800-1900 mile round trip. Dtel's wife: I hope the "unbelieveable" part of what you've heard about Lake Okeechobee is good! Great bass fishing and only 30 miles from the beaches off Fort Pierce!

[:$]First, I apologize for withdrawing the "free albums to good homes" thread a couple weeks ago; and I extend my sincerest apologies to those specific forum members who expressed an interest in the "batches" of 6-10 as I transfer them to CD's. I know some of you were/ are likely upset by the "cancellation", but I had no choice.[] I was, unfortunately "barraged" by a bazilion emails from people wanting them all (would not take no for an answer), telephone calls at all hours of the day and night, too many folks whose "want lists" were about the size of "War and Peace", emails from non-forum members, ebay sellers, commercial re-sellers[:@], etc. It got so bad that I had to wipe out my email address on the Forum "profile", temporarily disable my email address on the server, etc., Big problems!! I still intend to keep my promise, finish the project over the next year or two, and then give them to Forum Members. But, I've learned my lesson. I will post the "batches" only on the "right this minute" thread, after all that's what I would be listening to "right that minute"..., and it will only be first come, first serve; and only for Forum Members. I cannot think of any other fair and efficient way to do this without considering early retirement and a career move into the "used records business"..... Again, if I have inconvenienced or dissapointed anyone, I do apologize and trust that they understand the very serious predicament I was in for about 3 weeks.

OB's right about not shipping; While the owner of the UPS store here is a long time personal friend, has always done an outstanding job for me to this point (and we insure everything), once something leaves his store, he has no control.... If you are interested, I will be leaving here (south Florida) for LR Arkansas on 27 December and can always take the I-10 route... Otherwise it's about a 16-18 hour trip from NOLA.

MDB; how soon do you have to have a pair? Can you wait for a month or so? I'm almost finished with a couple of pairs of H-I's that I have restored. I'll may sell one pair of those, or an otherwise nice pair of H-II's with rosewood stain (I need to replace a cosmetically challenged K-24 woofer where there is a 1" long "scratch" from my stupidity), for only the cost of what I have put into them, and probably could get them to you for under $400 with the shipping. Send me a normal email and I'll describe them, work done, take a picture, etc. ocsosheriff1@okeechobee.com

Agree with SF; Diablo, Freud, etc. Woodtec is very good; Dewalt's are not too bad. Woodmen's recommended blade is very, very good. I'm considering a pro blade for my TS that can be sent back for sharpening. Currently, I use an 80T on my 10" Dewalt miter/chop, and a Freud 80T on the 10" TS; Also, you can use blue painter's tape, or masking tape on the "good" side to reduce potential splintering. Always saw as slow as possible with the table saw to keep the blade from getting too hot. They will warp if not careful. For just "ripping" or reducing full sheets down to slightly larger than the final cuts, you can use a good 40 or 60T blade on your circular. I've got a 25 year old 8" craftsman which works fine for that sort of stuff. Check out www.woodworker.com ; excellent tools, also a great source for watco products. Nothing but walmart here, HD or Lowes for me is 90+ miles round trip, and with the price of fuel, internet sources can be of great assistance.

Seriously, you need to look at Dr. Who's posts regarding similar questions regarding acoustics, posts by mas, particularly the thread regarding small room vs large room acoustics. and go through the threads in the "Architectural"section of the Forum. The room configuration, size, etc. are going to be the key to both placement, or how you will actually "hear" the music, and which surrounds you select. Two approaches... Overkill or the "terminator" approach (it's fun, but not efficient...), or think it through and consider how the sound gets to the "sweet spot". Later, gotta' run, grab a cold one, lay on AC/DC's Dirty Deed's Done Dirt Cheap, turn on all 6 amps, the 3 pairs of K'horns, the LaScala's and the 4 pairs of Heresy's in the 12 x 12 room.... Just kidding... the room's 24 x 16.... Second attempt to

Seriously, you need to look at Dr. Who's posts regarding similar questions regarding acoustics, posts by mas, particularly the thread regarding small room vs large room acoustics. and go through the threads in the "Architectural"section of the Forum. The room configuration, size, etc. are going to be the key to both placement, or how you will actually "hear" the music, and which surrounds you select. Two approaches... Overkill or the "terminator" approach (it's fun, but not efficient...), or think it through and consider how the sound gets to the "sweet spot". Later, gotta' run, grab a cold one, lay on AC/DC's Dirty Deed's Done Dirt Cheap, turn on all 6 amps, the 3 pairs of K'horns, the LaScala's and the 4 pairs of Heresy's in the 12 x 12 room.... Just kidding... the room's 24 x 16.... Second attempt

Seriously, you need to look at Dr. Who's posts regarding similar questions regarding acoustics, posts by mas, particularly the thread regarding small room vs large room acoustics. and go through the threads in the "Architectural"section of the Forum. The room configuration, size, etc. are going to be the key to both placement, or how you will actually "hear" the music, and which surrounds you select. Two approaches... Overkill or the "terminator" approach (it's fun, but not efficient...), or think it through and consider how the sound gets to the "sweet spot". Later, gotta' run, grab a cold one, lay on AC/DC's Dirty Deed's Done Dirt Cheap, turn on all 6 amps, the 3 pairs of K'horns, the LaScala's and the 4 pairs of Heresy's in the 12 x 12 room.... Just kidding... the room's 24 x 16.... Second