InVeNtOr

OK, I thought u were having issues. Well in that case I suggest u just get 1 furman 20pfi and rock on. I would still want a dedicated circuit. Its nice to be able to shut down everything, but still have the lights on!

something i forgot. with the umc having programmable triggers, and the furman having triggers, it turns into a "Green" device. my amps don't sit at idle, ps3 isn't sucking up power, and the Wii isn't sip'n sizzerup. it's nice to be just watching tv, and not having all the dang LED lights light up! another killer of your wallet is Subs in standby. in my Apt. with 1 month of my sub on/standby vs. 1 month with it unplugged and only plugged in while in use, my electric bill was $70 more. in my set up, i couldn't run the power cord to my furman because the cord would have been 50' long (through the walls and up in the attic). normally you can, and you can have the outlets to the sub turned off. this is a little off topic, but to correct this issue i used X10. i purchased a remote outlet and had it programed to only turn on in certain settings. pretty simple solution. taking a low end of savings, my furman paid for itself in less than a year and a half.

no, i agree. i use monoprice 12 awg for my mains. i even replaced the internal wire in my speakers with it. i do take it out of the jacket though.

ok, just got off the phone with Rob, by all means give them a call too, you won't want to plug any of your stabilizers or ups into the furman. bottom line, if you are tripping the breaker, you have to get some dedicated lines. the furman won't help with the breaker tripping. i personally suggest having an electrician run 2 each 20 amp dedicated circuits and split all your HT stuff among those 2 outlets. you could then either buy 2 each Furman 20PFI or 2 each Furman 15PFI. it is a 20a power cord, so yes, you need a 20 outlet. i believe if you buy a furman product, you could sell your monster gear and help pay for the furman. FYI you can buy a "refurb" unit too. Rob suggested i buy one because a "refurb" item is someone buying one, and sending it back. Rob has personally seen every one in the shop, zero has been defective. you can talk to him more about it. looking at your sig, you have a very nice room, and nice gear, and you don't seem the type to cheap out. you buy what you need, and what you need does it job. this item is just another link in your HT chain. here is another suggestion, look into custom power cords. you have spend lots of money making the power going into your gear "good". well, what happens after that power goes into the cleaner and out unshielded power cords???? it gets all the emi/rfi back in. you don't have to pay $500 for power cords either, they can be cheap, especially if you build them. i have every cord remade. all the cords to TV's, projectors, ps3, dvd player, blu-ray players, etc should be a 100% shielded power cord. that cord should have a foil of some type in it. it doesn't matter if the conductor is upocc copper or 3N copper, it won't effect the final result. i don't want to steer this off course, if you are interested pm, i can send you to the right places and help you out (no, i am not selling anything). Call Rob.

i know, i know, i really wasn't making a comment. there is another post that i suggested to Youth he could charge $450 for his. my bad fellas....

right after my house was built, i had an electrician run a 12/3 romex wire to a dedicated circuit (20 amp). if you want you entire system to be able to pull the amps you need, you need 1 item, Furman 20 PFI. with that you get 55 peak amps. with all your gear running you won't have enough amps to power it all. looking at your sig, you have some big boy toys, well you need this to go along with it. another option, run several seperate 20 amp circuits and divide you gear up between outlets. just a thought and suggestion.

ok, i must be wrong. i just posted i thought the umc-1 should sell for at least $400, possibly $450. good luck with the sale.

i hope you are pulling my leg. that makes no sense. the umc200 is $600 + ship and there isn't much difference between them. the xmc is $1499 and one of the main differences between it and umc200 is XLR. i would think $400 should be the lowest price. wow, i am shocked. glad i am not selling mine. i would punch someone in the face if they offered me that. (just an expression). that just makes me sad.....

can you pull them back and re run them? buy new wire? what kind are you using? i prefer mil-spec 12 awg copper/tin plated with teflon. it's sure cheap, twisted, and will last longer than you. side note, i usually get it for free....i work on Airplanes and from time to time can grab extra wire.

couldn't hurt to try. i would run the wires directly and see how it sounds. then if you like it, crawl around the attic.

ok, i have no idea why the computers at work do this. this is the second time i typed a message and got a blank responce. Youth, what i wrote was, if you like the HK more, you can make a pretty penny. the umc-1 is worth about $450 and for someone who whats the xmc-1, you can sell the 40% coupon for $200. even if you sell it at $300, it's still a good deal. the savings on the xmc-1 is $600. good luck, looking forward to the review.....

LMAO! "That's what she said!"

for me, i always suggest a Crossover upgrade. it's simple, easy (if you know how to solder), and in the end gives you a whole new speaker. for the most part, the end result is a new level of clarity. think of it this way, put a pillow over your speakers, listen, then take them off, that's what you get. people around here also neglect their surrounds, upgrade them too. make them more clear and you will hear all new parts of a movie you "knew" were not there. beware, you can fall into a rabbit hole of suggested crossover parts. i have called Jeff at Sonic Craft (www.soniccraft.com) and he has not lead me wrong on any project i have done. there is not one capacitor that fits all. after you tell him what you have, what you like, what you need, and your budget he will make the best suggestion based on that. this way, you keep the speakers you have your room set up for, the gear you know works the way you like, and you don't have to "figure out" how something new will work in the room. just my suggestion.

i originally bought the UMC-1 so i would be "upgrade" proof. sure enough, Emotiva now has 2 processors, UMC200 and XMC-1. the 200 is cool, has zero legacy video connections (finally!) and has a fast video switcher. you know, i never knew my switcher was slow..... i called Emotiva today about the major differences between the UMC-1 and the XMC-1 if i was ONLY going to be using a 3.1 set up. the answer i got was....XLR and faster video switching. so unless i want to throw a bunch of speakers into my tiny Apt, then i don't need a processor anytime soon! YEAH! finally the upgrade bug has no effect! however i did find at least one person that had a UMC-1 and did some kind of capacitor upgrade, so that might be something i try out. that 40% card is nice to hold on too, with the XMC-1 being $1499, i could save a bunch of $$ if i ever NEED it. Youth, let us all know how that HK sounds, as far i have heard on here, it is the AVR of choice pared with klipsch.

well then, you are s*****d. lol. um, well, this is why i am a huge fan of 3.1 or 2.1 set ups. if your room is optimal for surround sound, then just don't do it. i guess your best choice is put them 90degrees from you or slightly infront of that position. see how it sounds and rock with it. some people hang them from ceilings too. they just have them angled down.

stick with RS-42's. place them 90degrees from your seated position. if you need to, move the couch off the wall a foot or so (if possible). you want the RS-42's on the sides because they are designed to bounce sound off the back wall to simulate a rear speaker. the more you can have them not shoved into a corner, the better. test it out for yourself, move the couch, at first in the middle of the room. place the speakers 90degrees from you. keep moving the couch and speakers toward the rear wall until it sounds the best to you. also, keep in mind the vertical height. once you find where you want the couch/speakers, then hang them maybe 40" (from the bottom of the speaker) to the floor. move them at 6" increments until you "hear" the best results. have fun.

i would think since the center channel is near any and all equipement you would want that magnet shielded. ok, so it might not hurt the tv, but will it hurt any of the other products it sits above? just a thought.....

i re-read your first post. if you simply want more "juice" i'd say keep your current AVR and buy an Emotiva amp. go for an XPA-3 or you could go with a UPA brand, either the 700 or 500. difference would be with the UPA-700 only using 3 channels you will get 186w X 3ch and the UPA-500 will be 133w X 3. those amps are $50 difference. have your current AVR power the Rear channels and let one of the Emotiva Amps power the front 3. i'm selling my LPA-1 for $450, it's 125W X 5 and 50W X 2 (7ch amp). so in a nut shell, if you only power the front 3 you get 241W X 3. it's what i did with my Onkyo 805 until i bought the UMC-1. if you got crazy enough, you could bi-amp the 7's with that LPA-1. i also did that, i don't remember having great results. to me, it was costly in speaker wire. i think the detail was a touch better, but i simply didn't want to pay the price in wire. there is an EMO lounge and you might find an amp in your area.

since you are in the 2CH section, i am assuming you are using your 7's for music? i have to say, most people don't do that. they are amazing for HT, not so much for the brandy and jazz..... i own a pair, and i will say this, the single most important upgrade to 7's are the crossovers. there is a ton of ways of doing it, but you have to keep in mind what you are using them for and what you like. i don't believe there is 1 perfect crossover for us all. i personally would stick with what ever gear you have, and concentrate on a crossover upgrade. i use EMO gear, but then again, i'm not sure they are great for 2CH. i love them but i am in a 7.1 set up. as far as subs go, man, that's tricky. how much are you trying to spend? subs can be 5k or so. i had an eD (elemental designs) it was almost the low end at $350. it was really good. i then got a deal of a lifetime, a FREE Bob Carver signature signed 12" sub. yep, it blew it out of the water, but it was a $2900 sub vs. $350, it should. eD has a ton of great subs, even DIY. if you are serious about upgrading your crossovers, give Jeff an email at Sonic Craft. i would first listen to the 7's as is, take notes, what you like and don't and talk to jeff. he will be able to help you build what you need. then again, if you don't know how to solder, this might not be an option. here is a pic of my crossover. i did an upgrade with a different brand of caps, but liked this set up much better. i wanted more detail, zero harshness, more bass, and over all better mid range. you can see that i also replaced the inductor, that made a big difference. i also took Jeff's advice and removed as much metal from everything i could. my RC-7 now has zero metal for the crossover. it's suspended by Teflon spikes. then again, you have RF-7II's, not the original. i believe they took the "harshness" out of them. so maybe everything i said is a moot point.

i have quite a few products, UMC-1, LPA-1, and XPA-3. I love them all. great value. i also have a 40% coupon on a future upgrade. i am toying with the idea of buying the XMC-1 for $899.40 (with my coupon) then hopefully sell my UMC-1 for $350 - $400 (not sure the actual value) all that combined i might be able to buy the XMC-1 for $549.40. it's not bad to be a Emotiva customer. even the UMC200 you get 25% off your next processor. only problem with all that math, i'm looking to sell sell my lovely modded RF-7's and won't actually need a XMC-1. i think i am going down to some RB-61's and doing just a LCR set up. anyways, EMO gear is awesome and affordable. you simply can't go wrong.

any one interested in upgraded power cords? i have some extras i don't need anymore. they are more suited for 2ch guys. i have a post in the garage section, i'll keep it updated there. if you have certain requirements, let me know and i'll see what i have. i'll get pics up once i get all my gear from my home. btw, selling them super CHEAP! $30 + shipping. (i have gold plated and silver plated) many different geometry setups.

I have several custom made cables for sale (except 1). All shipping will be USPS Priority Flat rate (unless you really want something else) Monoprice RCA Digital Sub cable ($10 on their site) Bi-Amp set (3 total cables) 38" long Canare + Belden 1505A Digital Coax (3 total cables, can be sold individually) 49" long Canare + 1694A $10 each or $20 pair RCA 3braid silver + teflon + Calrad Gold plating 28" long (Pair) {given away for free} RCA twisted pair cable. silver plated, silver foil, silver shield, 100% shielded. Calrad Gold plating 28.5" long (Pair) RCA twisted pair cable. silver plated, silver foil, silver shield, 100% shielded. Gold plated, Locking, Compression style, (center and outer) No solder used 27.25" long (Pair) RCA twisted pair cable. silver plated, silver foil, silver shield, 100% shielded. Gold plated, Locking, Compression style, (center and outer) No solder used 31" long and 36" long {sold} Any power cable that doesn't have a utilized a ground pin or has a shield, i can add it to the cable at ZERO cost. $30 each Power Cable P/C-079 Gold plated, twisted 12 awg stranded wire, 12 awg spiral ground 28" long Power Cable P/C-079 Gold plated, twisted 12 awg stranded wire, NO ground, 49" long {sold} Power Cable P/C-079 Gold plated, twisted 12 awg stranded wire, NO ground, 22" long {sold} Power Cable P/C-037 Silver plated. 4ea solid copper plated silver 15 awg. 2ea conductors twisted together, then inserted into tigon tubing. both conductors twisted. NO ground. 40" long Power cable P/C-037 Silver plated. 4ea 14awg star quad. Mil-Spec wire. teflon insulation. No shield, No ground. 40" long. Power cable P/C-037 Silver plated. twisted 12 awg stranded wire, Mil-Spec wire, teflon insulation. shield braid connected at plug end. ground pin not connected. 39" long {sale pending} Power cable P/C-037 Silver plated. twisted 12 awg stranded wire. Mil-Spec wire, teflon insulation. No shield, No ground. 40" long. Power cable P/C-046e Pure Copper. twisted 12 awg stranded wire. Mil-Spec wire, teflon insulation. No shield, No ground. 40" long. Video Power cable P/C-037 Silver plated. 18awg tin plated copper. tinned copper foil, tinned copper drain wire. 100% shielded (connected at plug end), Ground not connected. 37" long. used for digital video/ audio devices (IMOP, doesn't do anything unless it's connected to a good filter unit). Video Power cable P-037 Silver plated + C7 Silver plated. 18 awg tin plated copper. tinned copper foil, tinned copper drain wire. 100% shielded (connected at plug end). 63.5" long and 67" long. used for digital video/ audio devices. (IMOP, doesn't do anything unless it's connected to a good filter unit). I have partial built cables (no connectors) if you really want the conductors, i can sell them as is, or find you connectors and build it up for you. 1 ea. Anti-Cables wire. 12 awg solid copper. 16" long, yeah, it's short! 1 ea 12 awg solid copper. 3N purity. Star Quad design. 31" long. 1 ea 12 awg 4N twisted with shield and no ground wire. 22" long. Klipsch parts Klipsch RF-7/ RC-7 tweeter diaphragm. (DWT 044-8 OHM) all orginial binding posts and jumpers for RF-7/ RC-7 5ea red and 5ea black crossover screws and spacers binding posts for RS-42's. if i left any info you need out, ask away.

+1 for Bob. i haven't purchased anything directly, but other forum members i know have. i haven't heard any issues, in fact all have praised him. i was going to buy his woofer for a CornScala project at one point.

keep in mind, cables, they have to move with this tv. i think a very simple and cheap idea could be drawer slides. there are all kinds of those, you could even call Snap-ON for some of their drawer slides. if it were me, i would build a box, mount the TV to the box. that way, when the TV is up, all you see is the TV mounted in that open box and the slides on the side. you could either have it be a simple manual lift (ie, you pulling it up and down) or maybe rig something up with air. the box will also help hide the wires. how much is the tv lift normally? just the normal one people put in furnature?