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Everything posted by HarryO

  1. DeanG is very capable of the Forte crossover mod. You might want to contact him. I've had his Forte crossovers and it's a noticable upgrade.
  2. You might want to post your location in case someone local is interested in making you an offer on it. Or they might be able to offer up some advice for you.
  3. I guess you've never adjusted points then either. And you could work on the engine while sitting on the fender with your legs hanging down between the engine and wheel well. And not even dent the fender. I had a marvelous c. 1972 Opel sedan. Starter died, and I thought, crap... Took a look and I could lean over the fender, take the six bolts out that held it, and pull it straight up. Took all of ten minutes. Replacing the water pump at a later date was harder...about 30 minutes all told. Those were the last days when the majority of routine R&R of major components was a driveway job. I probably could not even LOCATE the starter in a modern vehicle. Dave I know how you feel on locating components on the newer vehicles.I had to replace the starter in my Cadillac STS and the starter is located UNDER the intake manifold. It took most of the day labeling vacuum lines and wiring as I pulled it down and re-assembled it. I felt like a fool having to call Cadillac to find the location of the starter. I am or should say "was" a fine mechanic and have built numerous custom motorcycles and cars and worked as a line mechanic and body man for about a half dozen dealerships up until '96 or so. Now I don't even change my own oil.
  4. Location always helps and some kind of idea of how much you want for it if possible.
  5. I'm pretty handy with a pocket knife. (Southern boy here) It's quick and not messy.
  6. That would make him a "music master baiter"? if he was. Some of the old A/K speakers were pretty nice. Some were stuffed with EV, Altec, etc.
  7. Nice speakers with a bit of "history and character" there
  8. I've seen a lot of changes in the few short years I've been here. I think most of the changes have been in the sharing of info on mods, character of different caps, refinishing, etc. It's gone far and above the old speaker placement standards, polarity, etc. There's a lot of knowledge to be gained just reading and advancing our systems through all that's available here. On the "MAS" subject...well I guess I did learn a lot about room treatments from him. I guess it was worth all. Nice guy but not what I'd call a "people person". For those that didn't have the pleasure to meet or talk with MAS...well, great guy. My only advice to him would be to "GET OUT AND MINGLE WITH HUMANS" There was always a good arguement to be had with him.
  9. Your apology is a kind deed. BTW, You're the *^#%_ that introduced me to MAS so "Bugger Off" LOL!
  10. Hope all is well my friend. You're not forgotten and my thoughts and prayers include you. Harry
  11. Thanks guys. I'm still looking for a good picture of the A/S system on this. I'm looking for a service manual also. I've "rigged" a rude system for it that works very good as a temporary fix. I cut off a "spinnerbait" arm, filed off the burr from the cut, used a Thorens weight and floss. It's working well as it is but not right. I do have excellent tracking on it and ran a pattern on the scope. The cartridge is sitting in the groove well from start to finish at this point. I tried 3 decent carts on it so far and the best match is the Ortifon OM 30 set at 1.80gms and 3 degrees negative on the arm heighth. The table itself is a very good sounding table reminescent of the early AR "X" models. It still has an issue with the electronic cueing via solenoid. I found a groove in the stem that an "E" clip most likely sits in and I'll pull the solenoid lever off today and dampen the cueing stem with a light grease and install the "E" clip. Hopefully that will get the cueing fixed. I like the auto lift and shut off at the end of the record so I'll try to get it working properly instead of using it as a full manual table. I also see the possibility of a light spring on the solenoid "pivot seat" that activates the stem. I doubt this table is worth the effort I'm putting in it but I've got a place for the table IF I can get all the bugs worked out to my satisfaction. If you run into good pics or a service manual please let me know. Thanks again to my friends lending a hand. Harry
  12. I picked up the T-400s up for Tom from a friend. I played them out and had to replace one tweeter diaphram in them. The cabinets only have one small piece of sound material in each one. I recommended carpet pad to eleminate the reflections in the cabinets and also to brace the rear board (1/2" mdf).t The cabinets are resonating, ports are huffing a little on them, but amazingly the caps still have a good bit of detail left in them. I told Tom to throw some fibrefill in them to help with the port issues and keep the cabinet noise to a minimum. It should help with the bass in the taller T-400 cabinets.
  13. HarryO

    for Fini

    I was wondering IF anyone would know the difference. LOL! Good Catch Gregg.
  14. HarryO

    for Fini

    Four doctors are having a discussion. One is Israeli, one is German, one is Russian and one is American. The doctor from Israel says: "In Israel the medicine is so advanced that we cut off a man's testicles; we put them into another man, and in six weeks he is looking for work." The German doctor comments: "That's nothing. In Germany we take part of the brain out of a person; we put it into another person's head, and in four weeks he is looking for work." The Russian doctor says: "That's nothing either. In Russia we take out half of the heart from a person; we put it into another person's chest, and in two weeks he is looking for work." The U.S. doctor answers immediately: "That's nothing my colleagues. You are way behind us. In the USA we grabbed a person with no brains, no heart, and no balls . . . we made him President of the United States, and now the whole country is looking for work!!!"
  15. "The question with your arm is where the thread starts from -- is there something a loop could slide over, or could it have been permanently attached somewhere on the arm and been torn off? A/S systems have various designs, but do the same thing. Some geometry is built in to exert a stronger outward force at the beginning of the record, and decrease as it moves inward. Here's the Basis Vector's design; in this case, the thread attaches to the underside of the rear extension of the arm, and would probably require a factory reattachment:" I've had a lot of different tables with different anti skate systems and all I can figure out is I'm missing an loop or guide that attaches to the grommet on the base next to the arm. It's a very good sounding table I'd like to keep as original as possible. IF IF IF anyone comes across a pic to let me know how it feeds I'd be appreciative. Harry
  16. Am I missing pieces or too simple of mind to figure out how to run the anti-skate system? Ideas?
  17. I don't really know. I'm old fashioned with TTs and carts.
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