djk

The C1 is a horrible POS.It is full of 4136 op amps that have a unique pin out so nothing will drop in.Polarized electrolytic caps in the signal path.Unregulated power supply. Most of their amps are ok.Change op amps and add a few caps and there you go.

I would take the driver apart and clean the gap.Use masking tape folded back on itself(sticky side out)into triangles.Most likely it is clean.Look at the coil while you have it out.You are looking for scrape marks on either the inside of the former or outside on the wire.If there are scrape marks and the gap was clean you will probably have to buy a replacement diaphragm.Re-assemble the driver and try it again.Try it on the other speaker just to make sure it is not the network.Order a new diaphragm if needed.You only need a screwdriver to clean it.You will need a soldering iron to replace it.

KSC has speaker driver plants in Mexico.Most of their plastic molding is done in the Pacific rim.Polk, JBL, Klipsch, Peavey, Phase Tech,(well you get the idea)use KSC for input cups,networks,wire,and various drivers.

>>2) There is a fixed-delay circuit which is broken. This probably goes back to a different capacitor being broken, but there is really no way to know which one.<< Dried out capacitor in the relay turn on delay circuit is causing the problem.A $1 part and a 10 minute fix.Order service manual from Yamaha(about $8).Send it to me.I'll mark which parts to replace and return it to you.You could buy a cheap soldering iron and do yourself.Or take the marked manual and the part to a TV shop and pay them $10~$20 to do it for you.

>>The target is to build a set of bookshelf speakers on a par with the Heresy 2's I have (or better - so much optimism) with more bass (27 Hz cut off).<< Two points here.If the box size is held constant a 27Hz cut off will be 8dB less efficent than the 50hz Heresy cut off.If the box is not on the floor it won't go lower than 40hz anyway(PWK wrote an article about this in the JAES about 50 years ago). >> Am I barking mad?<< Probably.But so are most of us.

>>I also want a set of Klipsch HEADPHONES<< How about a coathanger and a pair of Heresy?

quote: Originally posted by Jim Cornell: Ill have to say it again, this is the Klipsch web site, is there a White house web site anywhere? WhiteHouse.com seems to be part of the Clinton legacy(*voted #1 adult site on the internet).

MSRP on a K33E is $100.Not only do EV,JBL,Selenium,etc NOT make a replacement woofer NONE are less money either.

quote: Originally posted by talktoKeith: cybergeek,its a shame you are not as greedy with your opinions as you seem to be with your money.Please hoard them all for yourself. Keith Ouch! The truth hurts don't it? Ayn Rand's working title for "Atlas Shrugged" was "The Strike".If you are under 30 and not a liberal you have no heart.If you are over 30 and not a conservative you have no brain.

I've done it that way too.The problem is that you have to enlarge the hole and use a wood chisel to flush mount the tweeter horn so it doesn't hit the grille.

Klipschorn #141 with vertical tweeter.Original University SAHF has been replaced with the later Atlas PD5.I used to own Klipschorn #253 that had the same K5J with SAHF and T35. http://community-1.webtv.net/KerrB/VINTAGETUBEAMPHORN/page4.html

The K55V will handle full range 30 watts program material.It is basically a paging horn driver.Since it is 16 ohms the 2.5mH woofer inductor will cause it to roll off above 1Khz.Been there and done that.The first Klipschorn I bought had a bad midrange driver.It came from a music store.One of the salesman liked to play his electric guitar straight through the midrange driver.They accepted my very generous offer of $90 for the said Klipschorn.

The newer Klipschorns have flush mounted K77s.The Cornwall II has the tweeter flush mounted.I have flush mounted the K77s in old Cornwalls.There are many different ways to do it and all involve substantial woodworking.The easiest way to do it is to order the "Z" brackets used on the Klipschorn, cut the right sized hole, and fill the gap around the back edge of the tweeter with Moretite rope caulk.

>>Are there good years and bad years, (like wine?) << '81 was a really bad year.I think you should send them to me and out of the goodness of my heart I will buy you a pair of Bose 301.

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1242065000

Be carefull.The Altec/JBL aluminum 1" drivers are only rated at 10W crossed at 500hz/12dB/oct.A PD5/K55V is rated at 40W crossed at 400hz/6dB/oct.>>it got slammed so hard by 'oops' (UPS) that it knocked the top plate over<< Alnico magnet compression drivers need to be re-magnetized if the top plate is removed.While they still play loud the frequency response above 3Khz will be greatly diminished.Alnico woofers with weak magnets have diminished midrange response. This message has been edited by djk on 05-26-2001 at 07:27 PM

Randy, the carefull stuffing was to get the loss in the 200hz region and gain in the 400hz region without disturbing the gain at 40hz from reactance annulling.50% foam and 50% fiberglass at a 1lb/cf density would be the best for this.Keep the density of the FG that is close behind the woofer as low as possible.The foam goes on the walls.Souther's Sorghum (from a hobby shop) works well on foam.Another strategy would be to stuff as to destroy the reactance annulling to make it easier to EQ.

>>I like the idea of the trap in parallel across the squawker - it leaves the driver connected directly to the crossover w/out intervening losses, it tames the resonance by keeping the load on the xover more constant<< Actually the series connected trap across the squawker causes the impedance to drop at the resonant frequency.The load on the crossover is less constant.The way you have it now the impedance will dip to around 4 ohms in the 9Khz region(5 ohms || 16 ohms = 3.81 ohms reflected up to 7.62 ohms by the autoformer.This in || with the 8 ohm tweeter will drop to 4 ohms).If you are happy with this,fine.For most people I think the parallel connected trap in series with the driver would be a better bet.If you want more rejection of the 9Khz use 3.9µF and .080mH.

Interference on inverted stacked pairs will be in the vertical plane.Tilting the top speaker slightly down will confine the interference to the area between the focal point and the plane of the speakers.Outwards from the focal point to the listening area it will approach a point source and exhibit less off axis lobing than a single speaker.

>>addition of adiabatic material<< Fiberous tangles(fiberglass, Dacron, wool, etc)change the pneumatic action of the enclosure from adibatic to isothermic.This is from frictional losses and can be quite substantial at higher frequencies.Carefull stuffing will cause losses of 1~3dB in the 200hz region where the Klipschorn has a peak.The same stuffing can cause an increase in output in the 400hz region where the Klipschorn has a dip.This is because the first rear air chamber resonance occurs at this frequency because of the average distance from the cone to the chamber surfaces.At the commonly used stuffing densities the frictional losses will be minimal at the reactance annulling point because of the much lower frequency(40hz).Reactance annulling is largely an art anyway.In theory all we have to do is balance the mechanical ohms on both sides of the equation.The problem is the equation is for an infinite horn.For a finite horn, which the Klipschorn is because it is only half the length and half the mouth area even taking into consideration that it was designed for Pi/2 loading, the reactance can be from 1.5 to 2 times that of an infinite horn.And what are you going to use as the throat area? Because of the multiple taper rate of the Klipschorn the real throat area as far as reactance annulling is not the 3" X 13" slot in front of the woofer but rather the area in the horn where the transition from 100hz taper rate to 50hz taper rate takes place.Lastly, the woofer suspension stiffness contributes as much as 15~25% of the total rear air chamber stiffness(reactance). Another thought, seldom discussed, is are we doing the right thing? If done properly reactance annulling will extend the bass about 1/3rd of an octave, in this case from 50hz to 40hz. We have also created a harder "knee" in the roll-off of the low end. With a softer "knee" it is easier to extend the low end with eq.

Parallel traps that have the LCR in series and then in parallel with the driver work fine.AS LONG AS THERE IS SOME RESISTANCE IN SERIES WITH THE SPEAKER.The series resistor portion of the LCR modifies the Q of the impedance dip.If you eliminate this resistor the LC will be a dead short at its resonant frequency,hence the need for some resistance in series with the speaker.Normally most speakers have some sort of resisive pad but Klipsch uses an autoformer and thus has no resistance in series with the speaker.With the 8 ohm resistor the impedance at 9Khz will be tollerable.Without the resistor the impedance at 9Khz would be 0 ohms plus the DC resistance of the .1mH inductor and the autoformer.A better trap would be to use 3.9µF and .080mH with an adjustable resistor to modify the Q of the circuit.Use a 100 ohm pot with a 4 ohm resistor in series with it and adjust for the best sound.Measure the value and replace with a fixed resistor.Remember the pot goes in series with the inductor and capacitor when you wire the trap in parallel with the driver or in parallel with the inductor and capacitor when in series with the driver.

Adding a second pair inverted on top of the first will increase the volume 6dB in the bass up to about 300hz tapering off to 3dB above 600hz.Can the Accuphase drive a load that will dip down to 2.7 ohms around 250hz?

AFAIK the GFA585 is the only Adcom amp that comes with power supply bypass caps from the factory.It was designed by a different designer than all the other stuff and Adcom decided that the Pass name was more important for marketing purposes.Hence the limited edition.In the stereo equipment business I found 99% of all customers prefered the thick juke box/car radio sound to something that acually sounded like music.The original Forte smoked the Chorus.The Chorus was deliberately tuned to have a big bump in the 60hz region to give it more of a sense of 'slam'.The mkII version of the Chorus was much better but the Forte II was worse.Play with the caps, I think you will be pleasantly surprised

>>Does that neat little trick work for the adcom GFA 555mk II as well? << Sure.The GFA585 limited edition already has them though.

>>amp is GFA 555<< For a huge improvement in the sound of the bass and midrange add a 22µF 100V cap in parallel with each of the 15,000/100 blue beer can sized filter caps.The cheap $1 each electrolitics will give 90% of the improvement that you would hear from $50 each film types.If you like what it does and want the last 10% then spend $200 for the film caps.If you don't like it you are out $4.Try this before fooling with wire.Warning: If you like inarticulate, mushy bass and cloudy midrange do not do this to your GFA555.