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Posts posted by Blvdre
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I don't think this has come up yet, but those crossovers are for the Chorus. You'll need to remove, and swap with the proper Cornwall II x-overs. The schematic is posted in the Technical/Modifications, but it's unusable (low res and too small to read). Someone might have it handy, though. If you'd rather not go the DIY route, you can purchase a pair direct from Critesspeakers,com.
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I would assume this already happened some time ago, as I don't believe Klipsch would be deemed an essential business (some here may disagree).
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You're probably already hip, but I would replace every electrolytic cap in that receiver, and clean all contacts, pots, and switches. Not only are you heading off an inevitable failure, but improving the sound quality, as well. A lot of these old pieces sound lackluster, but really shine once restored.
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Everything I've read says these were Jensen drivers.
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I would jump on these quick $120 shipped is a hell of a deal.
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On 2/27/2019 at 7:01 PM, tbagshaw said:
Would measuring the old caps before removal make sense? Could that be done with a regular multi meter?
No, you need a ESR meter that will measure the cap's ESR (equivalent series resistance). The issue is typically that a cap's ESR increases over time (certain types of caps are more prone to this), rather than the capacitance value changing.
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4 hours ago, rhing said:
I had to purchase a Mean Well LRS-200-36 switching power supply to power this amp since it does not come with a power supply. I had to dial down the power supply's output to 30VDC since the power rail capacitors on the Aiyima amp are rated at 35V.
How did you drop down the voltage; an output pot adjust (like most switchers)?
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On 3/6/2020 at 2:23 PM, Thaddeus Smith said:
I honestly don't care about off axis. My critical listening is just me and everything else is about 2ft left or right of the MLP and it's casual tv/movies at that point.
Smooth off-axis response is still important for balanced reflected sound, though, even if you're in the sweet spot.
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Do you have pics of the actual unit?
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44 minutes ago, glens said:
I'm under the impression young people don't have hobbies apart from social media and/or "gaming".
What an old codger says, Alex. I'm 53, and I know better than that. Does that make me a young 53? 😄
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It's bad (also macbook + safari)
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Have they behaved this was since day one? That sounds like a connection issue, maybe a bad solder joint, crimp, contaminated connector, etc. Are you willing to investigate the driver & crossover hardware/connections?
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On 11/21/2019 at 12:53 PM, Dave A said:
OK whats that tube thing in the middle, a phase aligned espresso unit?
That's the pea-shooter.
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Agree with Edgar and John. I work in a manufacturing environment, and its always helpful to get failed parts back for analysis. Your phone call should have also prompted them to evaluate their current stock & processes, as well. Give them another call first, to check in; they may have already sorted out the problem.
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I'll reinforce what Bubo said; don't purchase any old piece of gear without it having been recapped (or w/intention of DIY). That means at least every electrolytic. A friend just finished a recap/refurb of a Kenwood KA-7300, and let me run it for a few days (nice dual-mono design). I could be happy with this piece (I'm not giving up my Don Allens, though). I checked some reviews of this integrated, and one of the complaints was noise floor. Bullshit. This thing was dead quiet with my La Scalas. The problem is people are commenting on stock units. My friend said the sound quality was night and day after servicing. Refurb is a must.
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Solen also makes a poly film and foil that is reasonably priced. John, I believe Solen caps are manufactured in Ontario, Canada, and distributed out of St. Hubert (just outside of Montreal). They have a french language option on their website, so that might explain the misunderstanding.
Sonic Craft has good prices on AudioCap Theta film and foil caps, and I believe they ship internationally:
http://www.soniccraft.com/index.php/film-capacitors-audiocap-theta-c-301_33
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My suggestion would be to spend the money on music or elsewhere in your system. Your speaker cable is fine, IMO.
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8 hours ago, CECAA850 said:
Scotch is smokey and wonderful.
Fixed that for you 😅
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21 hours ago, moray james said:
did you try the reflex loaded riser mod on your LaScala? Curious to know what you tweaked on your LaScala's.
No, I've never tried the reflex riser. I currently have a Fastlane Tractrix horn with one of Dave's aluminum CD motorboards, with the nice CNC'd transitions (don't think he offered these for long?).
I've had the CT-125s installed for many years now, but they are too laid back for my old frequency-challenged ears, so I'm going to swap the old k-77s back in. maybe I'll try the DE120s at some point.
I've had a few different crossovers in these; The original AA, I've built type A & Als Universals. I'm in the process of building an AP-500/Universal so I can throw the JBL 2470 mid back in. I had used it in the past with a slightly modified type A, and preferred the sound over the k-55.
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3 hours ago, glens said:
A couple of points: If "FMI" is "Fulton Musical Industries", then a "Fulton FMI 80" would be a "Fulton Fulton Musical Industries 80". That's right up there with "ATM machine" and "SSN number".
You forgot my favorite, PCB Board.
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My 4pis are not finshed, but will be soon. If you haven't made a decision yet, I'll offer my opinion. I've owned Cornwalls, and still have a pair of modified La Scalas (which I'm holding on to).
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Bass Crossover Points ?
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
From Wiki:
"The voiced speech of a typical adult male will have a fundamental frequency from 85 to 180 Hz, and that of a typical adult female from 165 to 255 Hz".
And from NMSU website:
"Average fundamental frequency during conversation for males ranges from 100 to 150 Hz, whereas for females it ranges from 180 to 250 Hz.
Harmonics go up from there, and these figures are conversational vs singing, but gets you in the ball park.