bliss53

I have used several DAC and DAC/ADC combinations with Audirvana and Pure Vinyl. Currently there is a Lynx Hilo in my main system. The Hilo is the best I have tried so far at $2,400. As for RIAA correction, PV RIAA applied digitally is my preference for MM cartridges. The Hilo does not have enough gain for MC cartridges, so a MC tube phono preamp or a MM tube phono preamp and step up produce my the best recordings to date. This most likely a function of the fact that my MC cartridges, phono stages and step ups are higher quality than my MM choices. At $400 the TC Electric Impact Twin is very good and can handle MC cartridges. Using the TC, I preferred PV RIAA over all else until a well matched step up was added. Either unit should handle 2 way speaker crossover duties. I have not tried this yet. Would need to drill some holes in my speakers to run direct connnections. Both are 24/192. If you would like to try my impact twin PM me.

Any idea what caused the stain? What is the current finish? If the stain is something that penetrated the wood it will be difficult to eliminate. A light sanding will give you an idea of how deep it goes. A new application of dark stain will help hide damage. I think the best results will come from a complete sanding of all finished surfaces and a reapplication of stain. Given that the stain penetrated, I am guessing the finshing is a oil based stain rather than a harder shell type of finish. Sand with a finer grit (150 or finer) and a palm type sander. Work down to finer grits (320). Be carefull on the edges. This can be easier to deal with because all the finish color does not have to be removed. I would recommend Watco oil finishes. They come in different colors. You can mix two or more colors to get the color you want. I put on 2-3 thin coats with a rag. Let each coat dry a day or so. Then some Butchers wax or bowling alley wax buffed to a sheen. PM if you have any questions.Good luck.

KAB was the inspiration of my planned project. I had intended to measure and and build but I thought maybe I could be lazy and ask for the measurements.

Very nice and also inspiring. I have a piece of cherry waiting for my 1200 as well. I think I will try some dovetail joints. Can you post the measurents?

You guys should get together.

Been there done that.

The K57 and K77 were moved into my second Cornwall project. Before the move the networks were an early version of what Dave has on his site called the ALK Cornscala-Wall Universal. These K57, K77 and this crossover were a bit more forward and that was the goal for the person who asked me to build them. I also tried the ALK AP12-500/ES 5800. This network gave the best separation and accuracy of all. But with my gear the best configuration for me (in place for a few years in my primary speakers) is the K55, Crites 125 and a ALK Cornscala-Wall Universal network that is tweaked to the frequency of the fastrac horn 380hz horn. This set up was the best balance for both my Conrad Johnson gear for detail and very sweet dynamic midrange with may old McIntosh gear. I only tried the original B3 for a very short time. The B3 was bested by a large margin when compared to the ALK designs I mentioned above. The B3 was mushy. I do not know much about crossovers but with the B3 it sounded like the drivers overlapped each other.

I like all of these amber liquids. As for cigars I like Drew Estates, Robustos, Acids and Nectors. I also like some of the milder Fuetes. I may be attending this year. Not definate yet.

These are also 1980 cornwalls. Mostly.

I think i posted this before but here goes. Reversable,

What does this link have to do with Naples FL?

I am in Naples FL for a few days. Any good music/record, new/used audio gear shops? I need to celebrate record store day tomorrow.

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The highest oil content I have applied was some teak. See http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/128981.aspx?PageIndex=1. It did not cause a great deal of problems. I did have to apply a little more heat and some edge areas required a little more heatlock glue. I think the extra heat allowed the glue to move around. I finally found a balance of heat vs. glue movement. I would use and extra coat of glue if I were doing it again. Some areas showed some surface discoloration due to the heat but it came right off with some light sanding. Sanding was a little tougher with the oily wood filing sandpaper more quickly. Hope this helps.

In my situations the labels have been mostly intact. If you want to save what you have you can follow the procedure I used. Glue down the label corners and edges. I also had to cut a couple of slits in some lifted areas to spread glue around. I wiped them down gently with a damp cloth to remove the glue residue. After they dried I cut a piece of paper an 1/8 smaller on all the boarders and taped it down with blue painters tape. This process minimizes the tape contact to the very edge of the label. In your case you could trace the irregular shape after the gluing to make the paper for masking. Then apply some tape to the paper and trim the tape to leave the 1/8 boarder before you apply the paper/tape masking. Then paint with Krylon grey primer then Krylon Satin Black.

I did a couple of similar jobs on a few cornwalls although I did not deal with spray paint. Watco is the way to go. Very easy. You cab get the walnut or cherry tinted Watco as well. You can do one tinted coat to darken the look then the regular watco for the rest of the coats to finish. I waited a good long time for the watco to set (week or more) and then finished with several buffed out coats of butcher's paste wax to get a bit of a soft gloss. I would also study some of the pictures and narratives posted by Greg at http://www.klipschupgrades.com/mkhorn.shtml. I followed a lot of his advice and it worked out great. I have posted some pics of my process at http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/105447.aspx?PageIndex=1. Good luck. PM me if I can help.

I noticed significant improvement of iphone, ipad and ipod performance by adding an outboard amp and a line out plug. I got a battery powered Fiios amp and a patch cord that inserts into the multi-contact power plug of the device and has a 1/8" phono plug that goes into the amp. The un-amplified signal from the multi-contact plug sounds much better that a standard line out from the head phone jack of the device. The Fiios amp improves it even more. I have used this set up with Klipsch x10, x5 and M40s with great results. See the Fiio site for amps and cords. http://www.fiio.com.cn/product/index.aspx

My favorite in ear headphones at the reduced price of $200. http://store.acousticsounds.com/d/42741/Klipsch-Image_10_In-Ear_Headphones-Headphones

The X10s are a bit more dynamic and when fitted correctly and the bass response is bit more accurate. The x10s passive noise cancelling is at least as good as the M40 active function. The M40 seems to bit louder when the noise cancelling is on, The noise cancelling it self works but seems a bit less effective than the sennheisers 450 and even the poor sounding bose over the ear versions.