Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

38 Excellent

About Ray_pierrewit

  • Rank
    Forum Veteran

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I recently spoke with a local gent who is into DIY audio and speaker building who has started to produce "exact clones" of the Fostex H400 wooden horns. From the pictures he's shared, they look exquisite. Very nice craftsmanship. He wants to visit me shortly to show off his wares and hopefully try them out with LaScalas. He says that the current fitting is for a 1 3/8" driver. I believe the cutoff frequency of the horn is 455Hz (though everywhere online seems to indicate 455kHz!). I understand this would mean that it should cross over to the bass bin somewhere around 800Hz, whereas the K400 + K55V is 400hz(?). He told me that he's be ready to build the H200 horn which has a 240Hz cutoff and 2" throat, could this be an interesting candidate for a 2 way system? My main question, is there any danger in temporarily trying these horns out using my (spare) K55Vs in this horn using AA crossovers? I understand it's not ideal and wouldn't be a long term solution. I'll be sure to take some pictures of these homemade horns and share. Daniel
  2. Yes, the builder's background is in EE, from a South Korean University in the 80s. He worked, I believe, at some state broadcasting corporation maintaining and fixing electronics until he moved to Canada where he builds these amps as a retirement project. Just to be clear, I didn't complain about the "too forward midrange" quite in those terms. I first noted the qualities of the amp, great separation, nice tone saturation, and bass texture. If I had anything to complain about, I find the midrange a little more forward than previous amps. I'm coming from a Scott 299B, which to my ears and memory, sounded great if a little soft. The 2A3 is totally silent, even with my ears glued to the speakers, and I find that it has more "jump" than the Scott, a little more dynamic. The Scott had more LF extension, but only because I always had the loudness switch engaged. I will shortly be addressing the LF with a sub or two of the fitzmaurice breed. I can't see any downside to removing the tie wraps and separating the wires, it's true that some important weak signals are in very close proximity to other wires. I can't say whether or not stray fields are enough to alter the signal, but am willing to give it an honest go. If Maynard is interested in commenting I'd gladly send him the schematic and be open to his circuit critic. I have much respect for both him and Jeff. Daniel
  3. Thanks again for replying, I brought all of this upon myself! Cutting the tie wraps shouldn't be a problem, though I'll likely only get around to doing it sometime next week. So once I cut the tie warps and separate the wires, am I leaving them "floating" around? The coupling caps are Mundorf Supreme Silver in Oils. I'll do my best to report on any notable changes, though I can attest to the power of expectation bias. Also I haven't got the best auditory memory recall. The amp is a Fluxion B-6TK and contrary to what Jeff said, is made here in Canada and sold directly from the builder. His background is in EE in South Korea and he claims to build circuits just as he learned at university in the 80s. He is clearly of the "test-bench" and "measurements" camp, which I'm grateful for because I know that the amp "measures" well, at least for a SET. He is very active on youtube and has several amp offerings. The build quality is pretty swell for the price (nice thick aluminium chassis, custom made/wound transformers, simple circuit, PP wiring). Daniel
  4. Strange, I'm not receiving any of your PMs. Can you please try again? Otherwise please send an email to ray.pierrewit@gmail.com Thanks, Daniel
  5. Many thanks for this Jeff, will print this out and keep it handy! Will correspond if I feel the itch to get some of these suggestions done. Daniel
  6. I apologize, didn't mean to highjack this otherwise very enlightening thread. I PM'd you some pretty clear screen captures, you can reply by PM if you care to.
  7. Mr. Medwin, I sent you a PM sometime last week before this thread started with a similar request for your opinions of a schematic. Would you have a look? Many thanks! Daniel
  8. So I just purchased the plans for the Table Tube Long Style. The availability and price of the recommended driver as well as the size are what made me go with the TTL. Also the fact that I don't crave wall shaking bass, at least not yet. Like I mentioned, I want to add to the LF foundation of the LaScalas. I also want to do away with the bass bin mod currently installed. I'm not dissatisfied with the added bass of the mod, I just can't stand looking at them! I find they really cheapen the look of the originals. Well I'll be studying the plans for a while before building and will be sure to keep this thread alive when I start. Thanks for everyone's input. Daniel
  9. Wow, I can't believe how cheap that driver is, even in Canada. Looks like Solen sells them for just over $100CDN. Wow, much cheaper than I anticipated. How many sheets of 1/2" BB do I need for a Table Tuba Long? I'm just trying to figure out a budget before purchasing the plans.
  10. Thanks for the replies, are you referring to the DCS255-4 drivers for a 10" in a Table tuba?
  11. How was the T-18 with the LaScalas? How big was the room?
  12. Yes, I've read as much and it is why I'm leaning towards two subs. I know that on the Fitzmaurice forum I've read him say that a Table Tuba isn't really worth it for the LaScalas as it only adds an octave or so, which would be welcome for sure, just wondering if it'll suffice. I'm not a member of that forum yet, which is why I'm posting here, figure us Klipsch guys are cut from the same cloth, so I value your opinions!
  13. I'm pricing out my options to include a subwoofer or two to my main system. Pretty straightforward question: what would be a better solution, a single Tuba HT or two Table Tubas with 10" drivers (Dayton RSS265HF-4)? Room is 16' x 26'x10', LaScalas corner loaded on the short wall. Music only system, am not looking to have virtual explosions in here, just a stronger foundation in the LF. Any opinions? Daniel
  • Create New...