Ray_pierrewit

Yeah, that makes sense. Plus I've got the serial numbers for the beaters, so getting replacement drivers shouldn't be a problem. Thanks

I picked up a real beater pair of LaScalas cheap, the cabinets are in good shape, but the woofers, horns and crossover were all changed to various unknown garbage. I plan on refurbishing them in the near future and am slowly picking up the required pieces. Found someone local selling these for a great price: 15" Eminence HiFi Woofer #15797. Any chance this particular woofer could be a suitable substitute to the k-33? See the screen capture for details. I know it's a little thin on parameters, so I haven't got much hope. Scouring the web unfortunately did not help. Many thanks!

Sending PM.

Wow! I hadn't noticed this was posted. Thanks so much Chris, can't wait to read it!

Saw this on FB marketplace. Very good prices. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1598234160391737/permalink/2972197579662048/?sale_post_id=2972197579662048

I built them, used them happily for over 3 years, then decided to build Claude's Qpies. If it weren't for the aesthetics I would've kept them, guess I'm kind of superficial! They sounded great though, even without any additional EQing. As long as you are aware that they still won't be producing any sub bass, I say go for it! They are such an easy and cheap mod that if you're not satisfied, well you burn them and go back to stock.

Wow, that's kind of you! Thanks so much.

Would you mind talking about the Ashly unit a little. Since my analog 3 way active crossover developed issues I've been seeking a DSP based alternative and found an Ashly Protea 3,24cl for sale locally. Is it pretty intuitive to use and set up? Are you amps balanced or unbalanced? If unbalanced, are you using XLR to RCA cables? Thanks for any insight you might have! Daniel

So the seller of the DCP3060 has ghosted me. Too bad. I've found a newer Xilica UNO-U1616, does anyone have any input regarding this series of Xilica products? It's got the phoenix terminal block type connectors, 16 in 16 out, only programmable from the computer using Xilica's software. Any opinions? Thanks

Yeah, I'll be aiming for the "pretty" route. I've searched through @Matthews threads with great interest. Thanks! I do still have the Sentry IV-B, those are in my studio and haven't moved around much, still sitting atop my QPie bass bins. Last night my Sony 4300F active crossover crapped out on me, so I wired the factory passive xovers and drivers and brought out my 2A3 SET amp. Simple setup, sounds great. I was looking to get a DSP based active xover and am currently negotiating with someone selling a Xilica DCP-3060. I was on the fence about buying the Xilica, it's an older unit with only 3 outputs, but the timing of my Sony getting sick and the reasonable price of the DCP are really weighing in. Plus @Chris Awrote to me that the DCP should be fine in my setup and is willing to help with the settings. Daniel

Wow, looks like BOTH previous owners of our old beater LaScalas had the same ideas and awful execution! I'll post pictures later of the random bits and pieces mine were cobbled up with. Scary stuff! You did some great work there, it's really useful to have that thread with detailed pictures. I won't be going for an industrial look as these will be in our living room. I've decided to, when the time comes, try @Dave A's method of pounding the side panel off once I've chopped the HF section off. I'll then just use 3/4 BB and replace the sides, the top will need a 1/4" BB to repair some half baked ideas someone had. So Dave, just how easy is it to pound the sides off? Do I just use a rubber mallet and blocs?

I just acquired a ridiculously cheap pair of LaScalas ($250 CDN, so around $200 US). Unfortunately, the previous owner really went to town with some questionable modifications, especially to the top section (added carrying handles, changed the horns, changed the drivers, remove the doghouse access panel... these must of sounded awful!!). The bass bin is very much intact and well sealed. I plan on chopping off the top section, keeping the bass bin only and will purchase a set of the 510 clones from ebay and go two way. Now, I would like to add some 1/4" baltic birch around the sides, top and bottom of the bass bins. Ideally, I'd like to avoid using screws or brad nails. Does anyone have any great ideas how to ensure proper pressure while laminating said bass bin? This project is for well into next year, so no rush. Mostly exploring my options right now.

@babadono Thanks for your comments. It's a DCP 3060 here is a bit literature I found on the unit: The DCP-3060 is a complete 3 input - 6 output digital loudspeaker management system designed for the touring or fixed sound installation markets. The absolute latest in available technology is utilized with 32-bit (40-bit extended) floating point processors and high performance 24-bit Analog Converters. The high-bit DSP prevents noise and distortion induced by truncation errors of the commonly used 24-bit fixed-point devices. A complete set of parameters include I/O levels, delay, polarity, 6 bands of parametric EQ per channel, multiple crossover selections and full function limiters. Precise frequency control is achieved with its 1 Hz resolution. Inputs and outputs can be routed in multiple configuration to meet any requirements. The DCP-3060 can be controlled or configured in real time on the front panel or with the intuitive PC GUI accessed via the RS-232 interface. Software upgrade for CPU and DSP via PC keeps the device current with newly developed algorithms and functions once available. Multiple setup storage and system security complete this professional package. I contacted Xilica and they unfortunately no longer service this model, which is something to think about. For now it will be used in an active 3 way setup, no subs. The subs will happen when I eventually switch to active 2 way. I'm also a little concerned about using the knobs and dials on the front panel to do all the adjusting, as the PC software is no longer available. The seller assures me it's really easy, mind you, he works for a live sound production company and knows way more than I do. I've glanced at @Edgar suggested thread, but honestly didn't take any time to decipher his schematic. I'm still on the fence whether or not to purchase it. I've never heard time-aligned drivers in a home setup before, so I don't even know if it's that important for me. Right now the pressing issue is a bit of EQing and perfecting the crossovers. Daniel

I sent a PM to the resident triamping pro on the forum, @Chris A, though perhaps others could also chime in... Very quickly, several rapid fire questions, feel free to give one word answers... My current setup is as follows: vintage analogue 3 way active crossover (Sony 4300F) and a 6 channel Classe CAV 75 amp. My speaker/driver combo is as follows: QPIE bass bin, Electrovoice Sentry IV-B mid and HF horns, with the A55g as mid driver. The Sony 4300F has allowed me to dip my toes in active crossovers and I love what it's brought so far. Being an analog active crossover it hasn't gotten any provisions for time alignment or EQ, things which I believe are clearly the next step. I have the opportunity to purchase a well priced, functioning second hand Xilica DCP 3060. Knowing that I haven't currently got any subwoofers, do you consider this to be a step up from what I've got, or more of a lateral move? One day I intend on going 2 way with subwoofers, would the Xilica work for that as well? The Classe too? If I purchase the Xilica, I will need to purchase XLR to RCA (balanced to unbalanced) cables, as the preamp and amp are RCA only. Do you see any problem with this? Many thanks for any helpful input! Daniel

I'm not averse to going this route before building some subwoofers. Do you have any experience or DIY recipes to suggest?

I built a dedicated outbuilding/artist's studio/listening room to these exact dimensions. Floating concrete floor, SIP walls with 5/8" plywood on the inside/ceiling. The room dimensions don't exactly fall within the Bolt area, but ease of construction and maximizing materials trumped acoustic theory in my case. I installed lots of polycylindrical diffusors (inspired by a PWK Dope from Hope article) made with coroplast to cut the reverb, which was VERY obvious before. Also installed lots of absorption with 4" rockwool on the side walls and back wall (behind the speakers). I've posted pictures in other threads if you want to see. Measurements of my room still show some pretty nasty FR swings in the sub 300hz range. I know that I'll eventually need some subwoofers to help smooth that out, but in the meantime I can say that it's a real pleasure and privilege to make this room my haven of music! The 10' height is something I've rarely experienced elsewhere. It really seems to let the sound-field develop scale and breadth. My current system is a tri-amped Q-Pie/EV Sentry IV-B hybrid, but I did have my Forté Is in here to demo them to a buyer. WOW! They had been a mainstay for 12 years in my home, in our living room where they made great, mostly background, music. Installing them in the studio was like letting a dog off it's leash for the first time - FREEDOM!! Scale, dynamics, emotion, clarity. The buyer was gobsmacked and frankly, so was I. Interestingly, he spent more time listening off axis outside the sweetspot, I suspect it was to hear how they would fare out for several people on a couch. He remarked how uniform and pleasant the sound was from everywhere. Good luck with your build! Please post pictures as you progress. Daniel

I won't be of much help, as I had to buy the complete Sentry IV-B to get those horns.

Fair enough, I'll keep this thread alive as things have changed quite a lot in the past few weeks. Plus the original Sentry IV-B's design was almost certainly inspired by Klipsch designs, what with the W bass bin and all. Also, didn't older Heritage models use EV drivers? Quick rundown of the speakers with modifications (then you can skip straight to the picture if the rest is too long winded): - @ClaudeJ1 's QPies bass bins with Eminence Kappa 15c drivers. - Allen A55G mid drivers in SM120A mid horns. - Original EV tweeters, I have a pair of @Dave A SMAHL lenses with DE120 that I intend to try in the coming weeks. So my system is now tri amped, following @Chris A's suggestion. I've decided to use a vintage Sony TA-4300F channel dividing preamp. This is a 1970s active crossover which has been recapped by the previous owner. Though it doesn't benefit from the numerous advantages of modern DSP, it has allowed me to dip my toes in this approach to system building. From what I've found online, the Sony unit is much appreciated and sought after by the french and japanese active crossover crowd, and they've been touting tri amplification with horns for a couple of decades at least! There are apparently plans created by someone at La Maison de l'Audiophile in Paris to improve it's performance. An obvious shortfall in the published measurements is the 85dB S/N ratio, definitely not state of the art "HI-FI". That said, it only adds a tiny bit of hiss through the tweeters/mids, a small price to pay for what I've gained elsewhere. The amplifier is a 6x75W Classé CAV-75, a multichannel amp from the late 90s. From the company's description: "Bl-POLAR? MOSFET? J-FET? Most high-end amplifiers use only one type of transistor. At Classé, we use all three in a unique sequence that makes the most of their particular voltage and input impedance characteristics. In addition, we have designed small but highly efficient extruded aluminum heat sinks that disperse transistor generated heat, ensuring maximum output without distortion." Don't know what any of that really means, I just remember Chris liking MOSFETS. It's strange coming from a flea powered 2A3 SET and EL84 SEP background. The most powerful amp I've ever owned was a Scott 299B. Tri amped 75W per channel seems total overkill in my mind. I've got to say though, this amp is something smooth. @JMON is perhaps the only other guy on this forum that's written about Classé amps here. I think they are tremendous value, and we're proudly made in my province of Québec. @RandyH000, in post #6 I "reviewed and compared" the Sentrys to my LaScalas. So many elements have changed since posting that it warrants another "review", I suppose. I moved the LaScalas inside the family home, on the main floor which had been lacking good speakers since I sold my Forté Is last summer. I'm so fortunate to be able to flood the home with some stock LaScala love! My wife and I hoisted the Sentrys on top of the Qpies, tucked into the corners as pictured. The sound was no longer lean and could give a run to the LaScala's bass in the same position. A tie to my ears. My previous comments on the mid horn stand, smoother than the K400 with great directivity/coverage. A member on the other forum called it "cloud like". I get great balance walking around anywhere in the studio, even right up to speakers they stay smooth. I enjoyed them stock for a couple of days before wiring in the Qpies which brought an entire new dimension to the music! Thank-you again Claude for this brilliant design! In my application it just makes sense. Double bass, kick drums and even electric guitars gain so much raw, grunt power. Like live music. Adding the Sony crossover, CAV-75 amp and installing the A55G really woke everything up! The ability to change the crossover points on the fly as well as the bass boost and low channel frequency shift knobs, I've managed to tailor a sound that I find very pleasing. I want to learn how to use the UMIK and REW to attempt to objectively flatten the FR. For now I've used my ears and feet. My current system goals: excellent coverage, high dynamic impact and low distortion. This system ticks all of those boxes in spades, so I guess it's time for future system goals! In the very short term, I will physically time align the tweeters by building a box for the SM120A and setting the tweeters back on top, this is also when I'll try the SMAHL tweeters. The Sentry bass bin will be set on it's side, thus lower the mid/tweeters to my seated height. The final goal will be to get truly full range speakers with a couple of horn subwoofers. This will likely take some time, next year at the earliest. I don't outright exclude to possibility of getting a DSP based xover. I'll post photos as these goals are reached.

I'm not sure this is the appropriate forum to continue with this thread as these have nothing to do with Klipsch. I've started to post on the Audio Asylum Hi Eff Speakers forum if you'd like to read/see my system progress. Unless, of course, the members/moderators here see no problems with me posting about other brands of loudspeakers... in which case I'd be too happy to continue.

I think it does come in various thicknesses, mine are 4mm or 1/8". I wouldn't paint it, though they can be printed on. Don't know about the USA, but in Canada all of our outdoor election posters are printed on these. I'll respond regarding the actual speakers shortly. I've made some really important changes to my system and will report when I'm ready.

The coroplast, I believe, is a really great material for this type of diffuser. They've been installed for two years now and are held in place by tension only. I purchased them in 4x8' sheets at the hardware store, though art supply shops and print shops should also have them. They cut easily with an xacto blade and t square. Aluminum j moulding is cheap and easy to install and works a charm.

PM sent.

The woofers are original alnico which appear to have been repaired as there was a service sticker on one of them. By all accounts the original foam on these woofers were prone to rotting completely. Mine are in good condition so I presume the surrounds had been replaced. Here is a photo from the net which are identical to mine.

A quick mockup I drew just to be clear, as I don't have much working electronics knowledge, according to the gentleman's calculation over on audio asylum. Does this look correct?

A fellow over on the audio asylum high efficiency forum suggest I wire a 24 ohm resistor in parrallel to bring the 12 ohm driver down to 8 ohm. Shouldn't bee too hard a fix, I believe.