bobdog

Mine are pretty flat in my room without any EQ. I cross them over at 40 though. I have measured and EQd them but the difference from direct is minimal. I really like the subs. They were an incredible bargain.

Probably could have had eliptracs and a pair of JBL 2404Hs for less.

Am I crazy for even considering upgrading? I know you can always upgrade but I guess I struggle with at what point do I become content with what I have. I'm not dissatisfied with any of the HT. I just realize it can be better and I probably will have very little if any cost in it after I sell my RF-83, RC-64 and my 103" screen. Guess I'm just looking for reasons why I should upgrade (probably have no problem getting help here). But I also need help with things like screen size, will my current projector be bright enough for a 130" screen? Then there is design. Awhile back, when I was considering upgrading my screen, wakejunkie drew up some concepts in Google Sketchup. I'm thinking this design would work well, reduce the screen 130" and bring the screen out to accomodate the 3 LaScalas. You should upgrade, but at some point you need to be content. If the Lascalas aren't going to do it skip them, decide what you want the end game to be and save up for that. I am finally done with the upgrade thing. What I have will last me the rest of my life and it is a great feeling.

He is on this forum also.

I have a 136" 2.35-1 Screen. I have never wished I had went smaller or bigger. What are you looking for input on?

Great subs, and a really good price. As long as you don't mind that you will have no output below 25hz grab some.

Not difficult at all. Not a lot of heat either. I hate to think that people might be scared to do this. If someone is able to run a screwdriver they will be able to run a nut driver. Just heat the nut with a soldering gun or pen, unscrew the nut and pull the wires off. A little desoldering rope will easily remove the left over solder. Maybe a 2 on a difficulty scale of 1 to 10.

Hard to tell from the pic but the nuts would not come off without melting the solder. It was more than just the wires soldered to the ring terminals. There may not have even been terminals it was a few years ago and I can't remember for sure.

I have a before pic. Give me a minute and I will post one.

Just use a pair of the binding posts as inputs into the woofer chamber. Unless the fuse needs to be kept (which does require reworking things a little but not too much) a pair of ring terminals can just be attached with nuts. If I recall there was solder on the connections which I had to melt before removing the original nuts from the binding posts. The wire does not have to be very long. The woofer is right there and the door is not far from the floor. As for a way everyone will agree on probably won't happen. Personally I prefer Speakon connections for any bulkhead type connection and would probably just cut a new cover and go that route next time.

It all depends on the DAC. Modern async USB DACs overcome most any problems the interface has. USB has really become the standard which is unfortunate because Firewire really was a much better way of doing it. Toslink almost always will have high levels of jitter and is usually the second worst way to connect after HDMI which has very high levels.

Been lurking here for 15+ years.

I am a big believer in separate preamp/prossesors and amps. Separate amps may go bad but they do not become obsolete. The amps in any flagship receiver will. I also believe that a flagship pre/pro will have performance advantages over a flagship receiver from the same maker. Separate amps also can offer much much more power than all in ones, and I think better sound although many would argue the point.

Junk would not want them, if there so delicate you have to suspend the wires off the floor with "special" risers and build them there own addition, no way. lol!...look up evolution acoustics mm3 or mm7 on youtube, and his system is on there...he does have a nice room, i think his back wall are all records ...yeah i'll still stick with klipsch for sure! i bet they sound like crap for home theater! I bet it sounds great. Reaaly nice room purpose built for 2 channel not theater. Obviously not best bang for the buck but nice none the less.

I love Speakons. I wired my entire theater and bar with wall plates I drilled and installed the speakons in. I also used them as the connections to my Danley DTS 10s, and have replaced the terminal strips on a pair of Cornwalls with them. I have used all STX series, which are heavy duty and have better termination methods than the lighter duty series.

Roots blower is needed to fill the cylinder of 2 stroke deisels at any altitude. The engines would not work without them. I agree with every thing else though.

I have used it without water and it seemed to work, but after a quick trip to their website I see you are right. I would think a little water could be mixed in to the glue like you mix hardner into epoxy though and not get things wet.

Could the glue be Gorrilla glue? The bubbles look like what it does.

Fair enough.

Then you need to look elsewhere for help. Dean is running a business, not a mentoring service. That being said, Dean still shares knowledge on these pages. I have no issue with his post. Obviously YMMV. I'm in the automotive repair business and as such field countless calls from people asking me to tell them how to fix their vehicles. I had one guy go off on me when I told him that if he didn't know what the part was that I was describing, he had no business trying to repair the vehicle. Others simply hang up when you try to schedule them an appointment. I can empathize with him. It gets old after a while. I believe I said I don't have the time to deal with what comes with the territory. I never called anyone an "idiot", I was just inferring that there are many who think they can do this, but end up finding they can't. I guess you're upset because my primary purpose here isn't to provide personal services to you. I'm pretty much the only vendor left fielding questions here, most everyone else has left or quit posting. One need look no further than a post like yours for the reason why. Youthman just showed you how to get the crossovers out. So watch a few youtube videos and get busy -- what do you need me for? I don't need any personal services, and I do not own rf7s. I just miss the days when this forum could help a guy do something for himself if he took the time to read up on it. I did and I have. That people are taking up too much of your time is regrettable but I fail to see how sharing less here will result in fewer questions in your emails and on your phone. Also the ALK universal kits were a great way for a guy to get into a better sounding crossover and having some pride in assembling them himself while saving a small amount of money. I hope the option comes back someday.

A lot of us are here to gain knowledge and are interested in doing things ourselves. I have read this forum since the first days and have learned a lot from you and others over the years. I thank you. That said there has been a big change over the last few years. Where you used to be helpful to those of us that wanted to learn now you say you can't be bothered, and even worse you assume most of us are idiots now. Why are you even here anymore? Oh ya, you need to sell your stuff now. Sorry if this offends you but your post offended me.

I have blown a couple fuses. 2.5 amp in ALK universals. When they blew I was listening to recordings with very low bass content, lower than the horns can reproduce. With most recordings I can listen at any volume without an issue, but nowadays there is material that can probably damage the speaker and fuses are cheap. Why not use them? I can not hear the difference with or without a fuse on a speaker.

I like rubber cement. Holds the badges and is completely removable later.

I use a Lascala for my center.

Ok here is a 1974 price list http://images.klipsch.com/Pricelist_740415_Canadian_635164928721028000.pdf Scroll down to the prices for custom jobs and you will find WR-15s It clearly states they were available without grill cloth. Decorators were different and were designated DR not WR. If the raw units were actually decorator style I bet they were pretty.