jason str

The green is with the padding... Very nice job, thank you. Looks like a loss just where i expected but does not look too bad really. Everything has a tradeoff as always.

Disclaimer: I am not a chart and graph guy, so some explanation is helpful, my ears are open. +++ If there is no benefit to padding the chamber, then why do the numbers in the graph change for (I presume) the better? The fact that the woofer crosses over at a lower point seems irrelevant if padding changes make a positive sonic difference. Thanks! -Dave According to the posted chart the notch at 200 Hz seems better but gets funky around 250-350 Hz but its hard to tell without overlapping the two charts for comparison. If it helped why would Klipsch not use a little padding in one of their higher model designs, more than likely the tradeoff in efficiency. Just my guess anyways.

Horn loaded bass bins & subwoofers do not suffer from above bandwidth harmonic distortion like a direct radiating type would so there is little to no benefit padding the chamber. The downside is padding reduces sensitivity and my guess is this is why PWK decided not to use it in his design. The notch @ 575 Hz & gain above 700 Hz in the above chart is moot as the woofer is crossed over before ever reaching those frequencies.

Male Hickory with a woody, probably chainsaw vibration induced.

Seal the access panel with weatherstripping, not glue.

Jim Do not dampen the bass bin. Seal the woofer enclosure so it does not leak & check the driver screws to make sure they are tight. To check for leaks run a 20-25 Hz tone through the woofer and use a few feet of airhose or vacuum line from your ear around your seal, if its leaking you will hear it better that way. Use a wooden wedge to keep resonances down from the driver enclosure to the outer panels. Tennis ball may help a little but if you're going to do it may as well do it right. Replace your worn crossover caps. Check your gaskets (horn to driver)

Thank You again Will, nice meeting you too.

I will get this back up & working and am available to pick it up any evening.

Happy Birthday Dave, its all downhill from here.

we really listen to when you talk... I am in the same boat as OP. these are the exact two subs I am looking at (because two hornloadeds are not going to happen for me anytime soon unless I can get someone to build them for me and ship them). does the 15" vs 12" having less distortion argument hold true since both enclosures are vented? Depends on the drivers. Comparing one driver type and size to another without measurements is pure speculation.

Buy one of the PSA subwoofers mentioned, at least it was made here in the USA. Sorry but getting kinda sick of all the SVS accolades from the fanboys, they arent the greatist subs in the world + made in Communist sweatshops in China.

The THT & Table Tuba may be paired together. Contact me if you need more details.

Bulbs came in early for the Yamaha, replaced and ready for a new home.

I have owned many speakers where the foam has deteriorated. Advent Pioneer Infinity Jensen Cerwin vega Klipsch And probably some i forgot about.... Not to mention subwoofer drivers and car speakers. The foam that has lasted the test of time was used in my (white van) American acoustic 4 ways from the 1980's and a good friend has a pair of MTX 3 ways that probably date from around the same time. Why spend the extra buck or two ( if that) on a treated foam product that will last, obviously the way to make foam surrounds last has been around for decades but nearly all choose profit margin over everything else. I would be happy to pay a little more for a better, longer lasting product but admit most consumers only care about savings over all else. I highly doubt much has changed over the years, i still see rotten surrounds on products that are not that old. Sure they can be replaced but why should we have to in the first place.

Some like binding posts others prefer terminal plates or barrier strips, i left the raw driver so the buyer can choose not only this but their own preferred type of wire.

Correct. I would never recommend wiring straight from the amp to the driver, at minimum a barrier strip is needed. Hooking straight to the driver is just asking for trouble, your pet or wife vacuuming tangles on the cable will surely damage the input connections.

The long style Table Tuba is just a raw driver as shown in the bottom picture.

Any true audiophile would be proud to have one in their collection. Once you hear a horn loaded subwoofer you will never want to go back to anything else.

The amp will work fine but its way more power than you would need with a horn.

Not too familiar with the sound of the phono stage, i spent little time with just to make sure it worked truthfully. From my experience with the amp it has a very nice midrange and neutral highs.

More realistic bass notes, tight clean bass without the distortion of a ported or sealed subwoofer. Better musical experience, more detail.

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I liked that he seemed to own the master key for all the locked doors he came across.

Yamaha CR-640 Please forgive my amateur photo skills. Very nice condition, just cleaned & lubricated Taken in on trade late last year & just got around to servicing it. 40 clean watts per channel. Specs Sold

Anybody else check out the premere of Last man on earth on Fox last night ? I thought it was pretty good and was worth following another episode myself, hope it does not taper off like a turd like so many others have in the past.