jason str

Page #11 shows a better view of the inside after panel install. I see the same was done on the other build, the overlap of the plywood will allow glue on 2 sides of your side access panel braces insted of one. What i was going to recommend is ripping down some 1/2" plywood and glue down 2 overlapping layers making 1" total.

No, you should have left a 1/2" overlap on panels 2,3, & 4 Panel 1 should be 1" overlap, there is a large detailed picture in the plans on page 6 of 23 (pdf version).

Thats just how it is with driver sizes, has not changed as long as i can remember. Did you leave the 1/2" overlap for the driver access hole ? Maybe its just my poor eyesight. I may have a fix for you if this is the case.

Looking good, i like the fact that you did not overdue it with screws witch tends to weaken the structure due to splitting your panels in two. The finishing is the hardest part if you are picky with the outcome, propper prep is a must for a decent finish. Keep the pictures coming.

Good time tonight, lots of tunes and friendly faces. Pro Cornwall's & Chorus II's W-mods and lots of other goodies listened to tonight, lots of alcohol & stuff to keep my mind off the new gaping hole in my gums where my biggest molar once stood proudly. Maybe a used set of Heresy's to play with if all goes well too (like i really need more stuff right). Hope to see everybody again soon. [Y]

8 track only. [+o(] Wonder if i still have my old Pioneer supertuner with the round dial complete with fancy 8 track player, i cant tell you how many dash boards were cut up to install that bad boy.

Makes sense, my idea was to mainly hide the glue that will be needed for the braces and i figured it would not hurt to do the whole thing. Wood does not ring but it does have its own tone. Good news on the back of the cabinet, i was wondering how much support was back there.

Did you also use rubber grommets to insulate the screws from the horn ? Otherwise all your insulating may not be useful.

We will be over around 7:00, Gary had to work until 5:00 and is headed right over to pick me up rather than taking 2 cars. If you need help with your computer i will be happy to have a look, see you soon.

Yes, brace first then some damping spray was the plan. Nothing is planned for the outside of the cabinet, my plan was to install the braces, remove the driver and go to town with the damping spray on the driver enclosure and inside of the bass bin & maybe the back of the cabinet if i can't find my big roll of self stick damping material.

If you mean the little wedgies that go inside... my understanding is there are enough variations in the dimensions that no single template would fit them all the same. I've got a third laScala, beaterbox. Black with part of the rear (above crossover) brace broken out. I'm looking to maybe make this a little test bin and wrap (blue/screw) another entire layer of 3/4" plywood around the sides and perhaps top. Might also do the front where the 400 mounts if I put a K510 in there. I prefer the 402 sitting on top so we'll see. My hope is this extra layer of plywood glued & screwed will do the same thing as the wedgies and perhaps allow me to make it look a little nicer (hahahahahahaha) No big deal, a little measuring never hurts i guess. I would love the 510 combo but the funds are just not there at this point in time.

Be sure to break in your driver before installing, i had mine on sweep for days and still noticed the volume increasing over the next week or so. Not that its a big deal but its kind of irritating having to keep adjusting down the volume between tracks.

I agree, its hard enough to get one sub dialed in correctly let alone trying to integrate 2 different models in the same system.

A few weeks ago i finally got around to damping my K401 horn with damping spray, what a difference a few bucks and a little time makes. Here is what i used, 1 can per horn. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-250 There is probably other options out there but i had to order other stuff from there anyways. I may also use this on the inside & outside of my LaScala bass bins when i get a chance to make my braces. Anybody have a brace template to make things easier ?

That may leave a scar. Hope you heal quick, try to keep your spirits up.

Don't be shy with the PL Premium, nobody will ever see the inside anyways. [Y]

Ahhh the Yankees, i was part of the club for some time, i graduated and then went to work for Siemens and became their main donor.

$35 + shipping will get you a decent Foster plate amp to power your sub 10. http://home.comcast.net/~jhidley/

What a piss poor list. [N]

It does not work well, you just lose your soundstage. Stacking is no better.

If my audio goodies were a bit smaller it would be a good option but its too much work to bring the assortment of refrigerator size cabinets with me, i will have to have my own party sometime soon i guess. Maybe my order of party goodies will be in this week so we can all have a better time at the event. Probably will not be early, i am having a tooth pulled in the afternoon but when thats done i will head out.

If there is room for 2 more me and my long time friend Gary would like to attend, it is right down the street from me anyways. What mods have been done to your Chorus II's ?

The problem with pre-cutting your panels is that the stock is never the same thickness between brands and such. This means being just 1/16" off in stock thickness equates to 3/16" by the time you are installing your 3rd round of panels so be cautious on your pre-drilling & pre-cutting ideas, you may be shooting yourself in the foot.

dtel, you found my singles wanted ad i see. Dosen't make me sound desperate does it ? [{]

Unless it's rough sawn stock i would not bother with sanding a thing until its done, belt sanders are not for finish work anyways. There is no reason you could not use nails & dowel rods, just countersink the nails as needed then drill the holes for the dowel rod into the same hole to get your desired look.