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JohnA

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Everything posted by JohnA

  1. The '99 drivers have all been unchanged since 1982. The fiberglass squawker horn started well after 1982, but I've never heard when. I doubt you'd improve much going to the aluminum squawker horn. If I had them, I'd listen to them as is for about 6 months before changing a thing. Only make changes to address a shortcoming you hear. I have the metal horns in my La Scalas, but damping the tweeter and squawker horns would be first on my list (use rope caulk from Home Depot, it's in the weather sealing dept.), then I'd tightly stuff the HF cabinet with polyester fiberfil from Walmart. Then, make sure the seals between the bass horn and the corner are good and it sits tightly in the corner. Finally, look into Al Klappenberger's replacement crossover. Your's should have Type AK-3 xovers. They are said to sound a lot like Al's, so consider it last. John
  2. $3,000 is a lot of money over here, too! Hah! Hah! Hah! John
  3. You have an open voice coil. It can be repaired for much less than a new one costs. The diaphragm can be bought from Klipsch or from E-V (for a T-35A). Most pro audio shops can get and install the diaphragm. John
  4. Maintaining the tonal balance all around is important, though less so in the rear. For that reason, I'd go for KLF-20s or 30s. John
  5. Bucking Magnets MAY be available, but all of the drivers will require sheilding or bucking magnets, one. Distance is still your best bet. John
  6. A bunch of nice pictures Doug! There were several I didn't take, so I copied them. John
  7. My Hope Pics are at: http://www.cdc.net/~colt45/klipsch/ They are big files so expect a slow download unless you have a fast connection. John
  8. Mine are tall and refrigerator-shaped. A cube is nearly a sphere and encloses a lot of volume for its size. John
  9. Genesis 41:29-30. The entire story is in the whole 41st chapter. John
  10. The break-in is required to push out all of the non-music electrons! John
  11. The KSF 8.5s are pretty good sized towers aren't they? If so, I'd set them to Large. Your receiver is setting the Low pass for the subwoofer, so I'd set the sub to a somewhat higher frequency so its xover doesn't cause uneven repsonse when added to the receiver's. 100 Hz should be O.K., but the frequency should be selected by the performance of your other speakers. John
  12. You're on the right track with no Mortgage! Get a copy of "Audio/Video Interiors". They usually tell who designed the Hts shown in the mag. John
  13. I just got back a few hours ago. The trip was GREAT! It was beyond our wildest dreams! We got our pictures made with Mr. Paul. Miss Valerie is sweetest grandmother you'd ever want and a great hostess. She practically worships Mr. Paul. Trey, Matt, PhilH, Jim Hunter and everybody we met at Klipsch were Class Acts! We got several nice souvenirs. And we spent quite some time with the Jubilees. They are smoother than the K-horn and very powerful. I think they will further the "Legend". Pictures at 11. John John
  14. You have a mormal pair of LATE Heresy Is. That squawker is used in the H IIs. The early H Is had K-55-V squawkers. john
  15. The K-33-E, the latest version, is optimized for the Belle/La Scala/K-horn back air chamber and compression chamber volumes. It is said there are few better for use in folded horns. If you have a -B, the -E is a nice upgrade. Al Klappenberger's xovers are flexible and very sweet sounding. You'll like them and they will help you match the output of other squawkers. You HAVE wrapped the squawker horn and tweeter with damping material, haven't you? Have you tightly stuffed the HF cabinet with poly fiberfil? John
  16. I guess I can understand "ugly". They're supposed to be sort of avant-garde; I think they are striking. They are over simple in my book. My Act-3 has no frelling tone controls! John
  17. Mondial has bent over backward to help with my ACT-3's "noise" problem. They've spent lots of time explaining the reasons they chose to produce it with such high gain and how I might solve the "problem". I had 2 choices, turn the amp input gains down, or send it in for modification. I elected to adjust the amps, but Tony practically begged me to send it back. It's hard to say too many nice things about Mondial. The Aragon line of amps are tough to beat, too. John
  18. I have never heard a Belle, yet. I have 4 La Scalas. The Belle and La Scala use the same drivers and for most of their life used the same crossover network. The major difference is the squawker horn in the Belle. It is shorter and therefore has a higher cutoff frequency. Since the crossovers are most often the same, you can expect the Belle to have slightly rougher amplitude response around 400 to 500 Hz since her squawker operates nearer the horn's cutoff frequency. None of this is supposed to be audible, at all. John
  19. John, Nice work! Do you have any finished pics? I'm particularly interested in the squawker and horn. They might be applicable to a La Scala. I have a pair of Type ALKs and a pair of Type AA that I hot-rodded with better caps and no KLiP circuit. The sound is similar with the Type ALKs having a better transition from the bass horn to the squawker horn. otherwise they are very similar. John
  20. Colin's description of Carver amps (AWA Phase Linear, a previous Carver design) is the same as mine. Not for Klipsch. I have 140 wpc Parasound amps. They are TOO big. I have discovered the first 1.5 watts is Class A and it transitions to Class AB above that, so these are not as bad as many SS amps. None the less, I RARELY use more than 10 watts per channel (114 dB peaks, LOUD!) A 25 watt (x 5) Class A power amp is all I'd ever need. Parasound has considered this but sees no market, so affordable Class As are not readily available. John
  21. Rat Shack has a pretty good +10 dB in line amp. I've even used 2 in series powered with one power supply with good results. John
  22. Remember those drivers can be OH'd cheaply. John
  23. I'm pretty sure the middle section IS (includes) the diaphragm. I have a spare. They are the same for T-35s T-35As, Bs and all K-77s. If you have the Alnico T-35/K-77 be really careful taking is apart. If the pole piece in isde the magnet moves you'll have to have it remagnitized, tough to do, nowdays. John
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