mike stehr

Build a pair. I'm sure Al would work with you. It'd be a cheaper option. Then you would have a fresh set over a used pair of crossovers that somebody could have blasted 7000 watts through. I'm sure nobody on the Klipsch BB would do such a thing. THANX!

One way to get away from being crucified on AA. ARCHIVES! I know how you feel with the audio geek trolls that have nothing better to do than lurk all the time and slam the poor layman, and suck corn from the AE's. Well, some of the AA Forums are this way, there are other AA Forum's with good freindly helpful folks. But a few keywords in Archives can get lots of answers without the humiliation factor. It's what I do.

Ya know Kelly, You should consider yourself pretty lucky to even have so much exposure to tube amplifiers. I'm 37, the last time I heard a tube amplifier, was the late 60's early 70's, And this was from the junk record consoles my mother had. I guess I can kinda remember the sound, underneath all those trashed Supreme's records my older sisters played. If I did ever hear a good vintage tube amp back then, I was too young to care. So all my exposure is the infamous Solid State, and really only started to get into home audio 3 years ago. I live near Spokane, find a tube amp to listen to in this berg? Yeah, right! Not much to offer in the way of Hi-Fi in Eastern Washington, even SS. I would have to migrate to the West side of the State to find anything. No Prejudice toward tube amps, ain't heard one. Really would like to, I'm curious as Hell. THANX!

I admire your Home Theater, HornED! Nice setup!

Whoa! I have this site Bookmarked, but didn't realize it had so much info. I better read up. THANX!

DAMN, I thought it would be more than 1200 bucks! The chipset seemed like high quality stuff, too bad they don't have any white pages for it, or more tech/geek info. THANX!

What if a guy had a sub out on a DVD player? Could you go into a reciever or a junk amp for sub, and have some sort of bass control? SVS's are tuned pretty low and do well without a active crossover. But a crossover is a nice thing to have. About all you could do is try it, and if they seem to have too much midbass peak, even in mono without no bass control, then a active crossover or EQ may be a choice. If your starting to get into a HT system, the ICBM or some sort of active filtering for subwoofers is a nice option. THANX!

It's like Ray said, It depends on the circuit design and the parts used, as well as the type transistors. Good post BTW, Ray. I think the old metal cap transistors will take a beating better than a newer bipolars or Mosfets, if you beat them with a rock. THANX!

I haven't recieved anything. THANX!

I guess if the guy spends 3/4th of his life driving around in his car, I could see his point. I got too nervous having a $500 car with $2000 in car stereo gear in it, I gave it up. I spend more time at home, and like the idea of enjoying music without traffic, traffic noise, car noise, and all the distractions that keep you from really listening to music. (When your bastin' your stereo on the freeway with the windows rolled up, and a ambulance is behind you with the the siren blaring wanting by, and you don't notice until you look in the mirror, that's not really a cool thing, it happened to me, and this is when I kinda started to get out of the car stereo phase.) Kenratboy, tell your freind it's a phase, we've all been there with the car stereo thing, eventually he'll settle down and then find out what home stereo is about. Then you can make him eat crow. THANX!

Help out Clipped and Shorn, guys.

What I like about these SVS 16/46's is that they dig deep without a crossover. Straight off the pre-amp to a amp bridged in mono. As with most subs in this situation, they will always have a midbass peak, in my experiences. (I do have a active crossover.) This isn't the case with these subs. My only problem is that the amp is way underpowered for the subs, to keep up with the rest of the system. But Hell, I thought the amp was a goner, and was whining about it on another thread, and HornED told me to quit sniveling and scrounge up something. So I figured 'what the heck' gave my NAD another chance and rebiased it. I got it to run stable and now have it back in the system. Didn't cost a dime. Now I can get by until I can scrounge the cash for a real sub amp. I will need a 700 watt amp to keep up. Rare short list of my crap.(Read it quick, because I don't like posting my gear.) Yamaha MX-1 power amp. Yamaha CX-1 pre-amp. Modded Samsung 709 DVD player for music. Panasonic RP-56 for DVD movies. '95 Klipsch Chorus II's with upgraded crossovers. Two SVS 16/46's NAD 2100 junk amp to power the subs. Twisted Teflon Cat5 wire for cables, and internal speaker wire. I have a audio control Richter scale II bass EQ crossover, I'm not using it because it's a noisy little devil. And I have a crossover kit that I plan replacing the audio control with. The reason I went with passive subs is the flexibility of using different amplifiers for them. BLAH! BLAH! BLAH! THANX!

That is very true. I'm just old headbanger, lots of lousy metal bands. But if we all listened to the same genre of music, the world would be a boring place. I try to be opened minded with the new stuff. At least we enjoy music, some folks don't even listen to anything. And we enjoy Klipsch too!

I could be wrong, and I am not sure if there is Class B tube amps, but I don't think there is very many Class B Solid State amps. Due to the fact of the transistor's crossover distortion.(Noise.) In a AB design the transistor's are switched on just a little bit, so the crossover distortion (switching between the two transistors)is at a minimum. Hence A mode at the first few watts, then AB as the transistors start switching between each other. This way the amp can run more efficient for heat dissipation, unlike Class A which is wide open all the time and requires massive heatsinking. A Class B design, the transistor's would switch completely off between each other, making the transistor's lower than their optimum operating range, resulting in the switching noise. Class A is superior sound-wise, but you'll pay for it on the power bill. A class D amp is a amplifier with a switchmode power supply?(There is a whole breed of Digital amps as well.) I'm glad you folks post all this tube amp information, Cream and Corned ain't the only one learning something here. Correct me if I'm wrong, I'm not scared. THANX! This message has been edited by mike stehr on 02-06-2002 at 02:31 AM

A man's got a right to defend his opinion. If the little kiddies think rap is music, then more power to'em! Misled little souls. Some kiddies think Britney Spears and the back-street boys are music. I hope you don't buy into that Cookie-cutter **** . THANX!

Uh...... My amp works.

Yeah, that makes sense.

I work at a AFB, I hear loud aircraft all the time. I think even if you were right behind these aircraft you still wouldn't get over 140 decibels(If you could stand it). But they won't let some average schmuck on the flight line to find out. And these guys around the aircraft wear noise-cancelling headgear. I was behind two F15's or Hornets or something, at about 150 yards, when they decided to to take off together with the backburners wide open. I wasn't wearing earplugs, not a nice experience. I was using a line trimmer that is about 85-95Db's. It was completely drowned out in the noise. I'm guessing it was around 120-130 decibels? The only thing your brain thinks at these SPL's, is to get away! Rarely listen to 190 decibels, I would geuss so, you'll only do it once. THANX! This message has been edited by mike stehr on 02-05-2002 at 03:17 PM

What is clean bass in that sort of application? In SPL contests. Clean SPL? Clean music reproduction? He booms clean? Systems in rigs like that are impressive, but also pointless. What's the point in have a rig that does 190Db SPL, just to think your special, win some trophys, maybe break a record, Yay. There isn't any money in those sound-off contests, the last time I checked. That Blazer is nothing but propaganda to get people to buy Rockford Fosgate products, all SPL, no music reproduction in mind. BOOM! BOOM! BOOM! WOOFAS AND WHEELZ! THANX! This message has been edited by mike stehr on 02-05-2002 at 01:36 AM

Well hopefully if I can get this amp to idle like it should or at a reasonable temp, and get the DC offset down to 0 volts, I can be doing the bass thing for a little bit anyway. I replaced the Trim pots for Biasing the output Transistors, these are better pots with more adjustment, the guy at the local electronics place always feels sorry for me because they never have anything I want, so he just gave me the pots and some .1uF film and foil caps too. I just put it back together and plugged it in, it didn't explode, so now I can break out the multimeter and hopefully set the bias on this damn thing. You gave some insight on giving this amp another shot,HornED. But I'm not gonna bet on it, the ol' NAD transistors are pretty tired. OKAY>>> I managed to get the thing biased. It should be 15mA, but I could only get it to even out at about 40mA. I couldn't get both sides to stay at 15mA, they would drift beyond the 2.5mA tolerance. It runs warmer but I think it will be okay. I'll try Tomorrow and see if it will take another shot at the SVS's,(Hope! Hope!). These pots really helped on keeping these transistors from drifting all over. Isn't this about the most boring post you ever read? THANX! This message has been edited by mike stehr on 02-05-2002 at 05:12 AM

Right now HornED, I can't even pay attention. Not long, though.

Well Mobile, I know Ben understands the effects of break-in with audio gear. I don't think he'll be debating anyone on this issue. Sounds like those speaker's finally settled-in, among other things. I agree with Mobile on not going too hog-wild with a cd/dvd player as a transport, with a external DAC converter. The nice converters are spendy, and a cheap DAC, is a cheap DAC. I think it really takes some knowledge in implementation of a proper Transport/DAC set up, in order to get the best from the idea. Sometimes using average DVD/CD players as transports, with a average DAC may be just more stuff in the single path, and could be more detrimental to sound than just a stand alone player. The clock jitter thing I guess. My two cents, whatever.

You are doing a Noble thing, Horn ED. Whether it's your Mother or not. I'm just Envious because I have two SVS 16/46's and no amp to use them with! I have a amp, but it's underpowered and tired. I tried the Subs with the Amp, I think they are deep and very musical. I geuss I got a little discouraged when Tom and Ken chime in with the JBL tent $220 dual 18' sub sale, And I just dumped $1100 on a pair of 16/46's and still need a amp. But that's okay, I wouldn't had the room for a JBL cab. That's the nice thing about the SVS's, little footprint. It won't be long, I'll have a sub amp. (And I'm enjoying 2 channel at the moment, anyway.) Wah.

Some pretty Esoteric stuff. I'm not sure, but I think these are beyond Klipschorns.

Why does everyone think that a Forte would put out more Bass than a Chorus? A ported 12', against a Passive 15'? A smaller Cab against a bigger Cab? My Chorus II's have plenty of bass, I have Subwoofers that I am not using at the time, and plan on using them for a little more LF extension. But by themselves, I don't notice any lack of bass. Unless you are Bass monster, you would be fine, IMHO. Keep in mind the crossovers on these speakers are nothin' to write home about. Electrolytics in speaker X-overs?! NO! NO! NO! THANX!