mike stehr

Remember now what Al K. said about two subs phasing each either out, Monty. Something mentioned of keeping the subs together, or near the mains, if I recall. Boa, I thought 'Acoustic coupling' was when the amount of bass spl gets to the point where it starts drowning out other drivers, I guess phasing them out. I'm not sure, my knowledge on this subject is pretty light. I'll check that site out, I've been lurking here way to much today, anyway. THANX!

Mobile, You ever thought about swappin' those oil caps for some Jensen copper PIO's?

Polypropelene?

Sorry about the lame remark. If you had the DVD player for 3 years, then the warrantie is probably over. Take the cover off and see if you can get to the laser light/lights. If you can, see if you can clean it/them off. My DVD player has a dust cover over the transport, even though it's there, I took it off and still found clumps of hair on the laser light. I carefully brushed it off with a Mary Kay cosmetic brush. If you use a brush, use a real hair brush, not plastic, you don't want ESD. There are liquid cleaners, and CD's to clean Laser lights on CD players, but I'm not sure about DVD players. (Sometimes a DVD disc can be dirty, even though it doesn't look that way.) Is it running hot? Sorry about the piss poor sarcastic post. Lustmord: 'Where the dark stars hang' Reminds me of traveling through a shi**tie part of the universe. Very different, I like it. Heresy might be the next one to check out. THANX!

http://www.gti.net/wallin/audio/rsmeter/33-2055/33-2055.htmlMods for the Digital meter. THANX!

Guess not!

No text. Just thought I'd keep the thread going.

What would be 'Acoustic coupling'? Or bass coupling?

I don't think the Cowsills had a very long career. But about all I know is the radio tune.

http://www.gti.net/wallin/audio/rsmeter/33-2050/33-2050.htmlMod your meter!

Now this wouldn't be a manufacturer who manufacters one driver full range horn cabinet type loudspeakers? I'm just curious, that paragraph seems to root for that approach. THANX!

I knew I had a reason to be scared of those 10 inch aluminum woofers! Thanks for the reply to my question, ED. THANX!

I'm not looking for anything at the moment. I knew the Denon was a CDP, sorry if I was misleading. The Samsung is a good 2 channel analog player for the money, and with a few mods, It supposedly rates up there with the Marantz 6000, 6000 OSE, a $500 $600 CDP player. Probably because the 709 has a regulated supply with separate supplys for analog and Digital. I'm just keeping my sanity. (I would like to go with a new CDP, but I am holding out until the decent quality line of Sony SACD player gets down to a decent price.) THANX!

HA! HA! Right on, EARS! I think the old school Heritage Klipschs do not have foam or rubber surrounds, BTW. I think they are a treated cloth surround, or untreated. They last a lot longer. If I'm wrong I'm sure I'll be corrected. THANX!

I already did. Read those Reviews, can't see either one of these players doing better two channel analog audio than the Samsung 709. Why? Weak switchmode power supplys. The Reviews clearly point that out on the Toshiba. The Sony seemed to have complaints about DVD's hanging up. The Sony would probably do two channnel analog audio better, maybe, IMO. But the quality of the power supply really dictates the audio on these DVD players, at this price range anyway. But I do notice you have a Denon DCM-370. I'm sure it does better Analog audio cd sound than those two DVD players mentioned. THANX!

I've had a Samsung 709 for 6 months now. Not a bad player stock for redbook CD two channel, and for the price. (The only bummer is you must keep the lid off, or it will die from overheating.) I bought a Pansonic DVD RP-56, terrible two channel analog audio. (Not a bad video player,OTOH.) The Samsung 709 stock is way better audio quality. IMO. I finally got around to doing a capacitor upgrade for the Samsung, It's why I got it. (You throw in a few larger caps here and there.) And I managed to upgrade the player without ruining anything, or smoking the unit. Fired right up like I didn't do nuthin' Whew! The Pansonic was gladly removed, and I tossed the Sammy in my system. Now it really stomps the Panasonic. It was a little nasty on the HF at first, but seems to be settling in little by little. (It could take a few days.) Then again, I could probably just be bullshitting myself. It's gotta sound better than most $200 CD/DVD players, and I'm still under $200. (and still have more mods planned.) I would like to have one of those Esoteric players, but I'm having fun, and keeping my sanity while unemployed for a little longer. If anyone can care less, THANX!

Be a good question for 'Tweakers Asylum', wouldn't it? I brought it up last year, they claim black is better. But these are the same folks who color and freeze cds, freeze cables, put sandbags on there cd players, make oddball platforms with bearings, spoons, swapping power cords more than the material than they listen to, or whatever bizarre things they come up with. The latest that blows me away, is the 'Amber tweak' you pay $200, $250 for some cheesy looking amber chunks with some other stones, configured in what looks like a necklace. You put these on your gear, makes them 'sound better' LOL! There is some tweaks on that particular forum that do have some relevance. Oh yeah, uh...Cornwalls, RF-7's, nice, blah, blah... THANX!

I agree with mdeneeen. That second paragraph doesn't make much sense. If this was the case, then single full-range drivers would be the way to go.

ARGH! for that kind of money, I hope they have a kit, for the more financially challenged. $6550!

Oosting, What is your opinion on black anodized heat sinks having better cooling properties than non-anodized heat sinks? Some claim that black ones have better cooling properties. My only guess is the black color of the sink itself, I have no idea why. Maybe it's because anodized aluminum looks better than a non-anodized peice, and of course to resist oxidation. (Could this be the only benefit for black anodized heat sinks?) Curious. THANX!

I like Bose.

Relax Dean, Like I posted, I would be probably be blown away by a pair of RF-7's. In my experience, with aluminum and titanium (DOME) tweeters is that they seem a tad bright if not properly crossed over. IMO! I sure folks are quite aware of the process of anodizing aluminum, and I knew the woofer cones are anodized aluminum. (Gives them that purdy copper color,heh,Sorry.) From what I gather, aluminum woofers are peaky in the higher frequencies and hard to cross over as well as mid/tweeters of the same material. Never heard them so I can't say myself. There is a couple of Klipsch dealers in town, maybe one of them has some RF-7's up for Demo(Dought it!) I can shut up and go listen to a pair. Hey! at least these are the same brand speakers! THANX!

I would take any one of these speakers. (I like speakers.) Was comparing the KLF-30 and the RF-7 in the product page here. Never heard these speakers before in my life, and would more than likely be blown away by either one. But I have never liked titanium tweeters, they are a little bright to me. Aluminum tweeters aren't too bad, though they are both hard to tame with a crossover. Through a 8'x 8' tractix horn, I hope they have the crossover right. And theres something about a aluminum cone ten inch woofer that scares me. These are just my opinions, I'm not here to chap somebody's buttocks or nuthin' Dickering about what speaker sounds better than the other, has about as much relevance as the ongoing wire debate. It boils down to one's musical preference, and listening to different speakers to suit those needs, amps ...etc... And what you can shell out. If you feel that the speaker is playing the source material as original as the source recording as possible, then wouldn't the speaker be doing it's job? If not, then maybe listening to other speakers is another option. Then you have too factor in room modes, size and all the varibles that come into play as well. THANX!

I think Mouser wouldn't be a bad choice. The caps you are replacing are more than likely general grade capacitors anyway. And what Percy carries in the value you need are Nichicon super-throughs which are way overkill in the way of power supply cap replacment for a sub amp. These are esoteric power supply caps, for a 'No holds Barred' upgrade if you will. I couldn't see them in a sub amp. Cornell Dublier should work for this application. You can go higher voltage on the caps, but don't go under,(POW!)and I would stay with the same capacitance. You could more than likely overload the rectifing circuit if you go higher capacitance. A 80 or 100 volt 10,000uF cap should be fine. The Dublier's might even be a better quality cap, than the ones in the amp now. If your worried about noise, Bypass the power supply caps with a high quality metallized polypropelene of the proper value, to kill the possible hash from AC. I was going to replace some power supply caps on a amp of mine, and were the same value as what you are looking for. The Cornell Dublier replacement you need is about twenty bucks a pop, I think. THANX!

You could probably replace it with another brand capacitor of the same value. 10,000uf 80v is a pretty big value. I'm not sure about Digi-key, But I know Mouser carries computer grade electrolytics in this value. You could get audio-grade caps through someone like Micheal Percy. But the value you want, are forty bucks a pop. (I dought if you want to spend this much.) I assume these are snap-in capacitors? If you are going to replace one, I would go for both. You want to keep them matched. Good luck! THANX!