babadono

Hi All, I asked this question in another thread and never got an answer or opinion so I am starting this thread. To go to a Jubilee set up 2 way an active crossover and bi amplification is recommended. Since the EV DX 38 is a goner (no longer produced) does the EV DC1 do all that is required? Any other makes/models that have the requiered number of filters? babadono Yes, Richard I am still thinking about coming over to the dark side.

heli001, Will your friend in Burbank be wanting to get rid (sell) the TADs? babadono

Michael, Bob Crites has a tutorial on his website on the rebuild of an AA crossover (using the parts he wants to sell you, of course ). But methinks all his instructions and points should translate into what you are doing. IMHO always SOLDER --- if done correctly it lasts forever. babadono

Dandoyen, I sent you a PM. babadono

EZ, I am running Dave's Eliptrac (with his adapter down to 1 inch) with the stock K55 driver in my Khorns. The sound is much improved over the stock K400 horn. Don't know if I will ever upgrade to 2 inch driver. babadono

My 2 cents: Your circuit is increasing the output impedance of the DAC so keep the cable length distance from the output of your volume control to the input of your amp as short as possible. The higher the impedance the more high frequency rolloff effect of the capacitance of the cable. And just a silly question: Do the monoblocks have level controls? If so this circuit is superflous. babadono

Coytee, I've had an Imperial Kamado ( ancestor of the Green Egg ) for going on thirty years now. Cooks anything and everything once you get the hang of controlling the temp. There ain't nothing like a 22 pound bar b q 'd turkey on Thanksgiving. Get one of those charcoal chimney type starters to get your coals ready quickly without starter fluid. babadono

Dave, This looks good and is probably more than most would take the trouble to go through. An RTA with a calibrated microphone would be the way to go instead of a SPL meter although I trust some of those are quite good (and more common). Being meticulous (scientific) about placement of the microphone (i.e. a tripod or microphone stand) when changing from one speaker to another would be in order. Maybe this is off topic but it seems once you have the drivers balanced and an RTA handy the next step is to EQ the entire system from the listening position. Eric

Hi All, OK I'll jump. What's a miniDSP? babadono

railtycoon, I think you will like Dave's horns. I know I sure do. babadono

Keith, I have a pair of La Scalas I purchased new in the 1970's. I recently made modifications to them to bring them 'up to date'. In my opinion these have been great improvements and I am only sorry I waited so long to make them... Anyway only a suggestion but do not overlook changing out the squawker (midrange) horn. "GotHover" a member on this forum produces excellent replacements that take the harshness out of the midrange. Also checkout ALK engineering as well as Bob Crites for entire replacement crossover networks. Welcome to the wonderful world of Klipsch and the forum. Babadono

Mark1101, My apologies to any and all that I have offended. Sorry, I am not trying to dictate only make suggestions to the best of my ability and understanding. That being said in a home environment if tieing 2 chassis together causes a problem be it hum, buzz or fire there is a problem. And it is not the XLR/phono cable. I mean in a home you just have to figure out and fix the problem once. Its not like you are packing it up and moving it down the road to another show tomorrow night. babadono

Coytee, Well that did not work. I am trying to point you to XLR-RCA1.gif from a previous post in this thread. You should wire it like this. NOT XLR-RCA2.gif. babadono

Coytee, If that's what you are doing you should wire it this way. This allows the chassis current to flow from the pro equipment (XLR pin 1) on a seperate wire (the shield) to the chassis of the consumer equipment (RCA shield). The signal low side (XLR pin 3) which in this case will just be signal return will not carry any inter chassis current. If this causes a ground loop (audible hum and/or buzz) you have other problems that need to be addressed. babadono

Coytee, I'm sorry I have joined this thread maybe too late but............ What exactly is it that you are doing? Are you: 1. Taking an unbalanced (RCA) output and feeding a balanced input (XLR)? or 2. Taking a balanced output (XLR) and feeding an unbalanced input (RCA)? Babadono

Why?

I completed the mods to my La Scala set as well this weekend ( KHorns completed a few weeks ago). Dave's tractix squawker horn lens, Bob Crites CT125 tweeter, ALK's extreme slope crossover. Whew! I'm in horn heaven. My thanks and gratitude to those who take their pleasure (and make a little profit too) in making this level of quality of sound reproduction possible. babadono

Yes I'm sorry to say if you are interfacing from one piece of gear to another and they both have RCA type jacks then yes the shield must be tied to ground. babadono

The Jensen Transformers website (you have to dig a little) has good explanations of Unbalanced and Balanced inter connections. Basically the only thing that matters in unbalanced interconnects is the resistance of the shield (because the shield is carrying inter chassis as well as signal return currents) and center conductor to shield capacitance (effecting high frequency rolloff). babadono

EZ, I recently moded my K horns with Dave's Eliptrac squawker with adapter to 1 inch (kept the K55 driver) and Dave's Contrac tweeter lens with a B & C DE10 driver. Also replaced the crossover with ALK extreme slope network. Phenomenal! I hear things in recordings I did not hear before. Beware you will be able to tell good recordings from bad ones. Babadono

I believe Al K. will tell you you need to replace the mid range horn with a tractix type before considering a new crossover. [] Eric

I know this is a liitle off on a tangent, but has anyone ever tried a second set of KHorns on top of the first with the tweeters next to each other? So the bass horn of the second pair is up near the ceiling. Or perhaps with a spacer between the tweeters so the bass horn is at the ceiling level? Eric