derrickdj1

Even though it is active Bi-amping, you are using the speakers x-o. This maybe as good as true external x-o but, you don't have phase and time aligment issues to deal with and the cost of a pure external x-o. There is no learning curve with this particular way. The manufacture has done the x-o work for you. The R&D developed the x-o fit the drivers and the speaker box which is hard to beat for most us that are not that tech savy.

I set mine to auto, but off is ok also.

Thank for the reply Chris. I have seen other post where someone ask if they could use this type of option with the avr and most of the advice referred to it as passive bi-amping. But, since the Hi/Low signals are separated i did not feel that this was passive bi-amping with it's flaws. Now come the qiestion, with the stacked configuration of Klipscsh X-0, dose anything have to be removed from the speaker other than the binding post. I would think that the passive X-0 that has been designed for the driver and speaker cabinet would be better to use than making an active one considering the techical knowledge required to do it correctly. The benefit of using the avr this way should be more than modest. This should be a nice option for 2 channel listenings with some of the 7.1. or 9.1 avr's on the market providing that you willing to go down to a 5.1 or 7.2 for the rest of the system. This may be a shorter post than I first thought.[]

Bi-amping throug the avr using the surround back amp for the hi frequency and the front amp of the avr for the low frequencies. The DSP split the frequencies, coming out of the reciever into 2 separate signals, one for the hi and one for the low. This should be similar to using and active X-0 since it is before the speaker? Klipsch 2 way speaker use a stacked X-0, which is why the towers have 2 set of binding post, one for the hi and one for the low.. In theory, this should not be considered passive Bi-amping ? This set up should not have the hi and low frequency wrave summed together as passive bi-amp, resulting in more headroom, less distortion and most of the other benefits of using an active. X-0. Opinions appreciated. The jumpers between to speaker terminals has been removed in this setup.

Sorry mustang guy, for catching you in the morning, lol. [] For $3.99 at BB, I use them since they are cheap and no risk to the system.

This is my personal opinion, so as not to start a war on the forum. Amps usually have a higher slew rate, so that voltage change can be accomodated and provide better dynamics. They also provid a higher available current and damping factor, which also relates to dynamics and control of the speaker cone. A typical speaker can go from 3-4 ohms to 20 ohm load/impedace during dynamic passages in music/movie. When this occurs the sound from the speakers get compressed or clips. For example when watching a movie, that cause for a 105 db peak and the amp/avr can't deliver it, the signal to the speaker is clipped to protect the amp in most cases. This is why lower or mid price avr may not be the best choice for demanding speakers. Yes, Klipsch speaker can be demanding inspite of their sensitivity. I like the ideal of a good avr with the option of pre-outs for the front stage. This is a more cost effective way to get the benefits of an amp. The aesthetics of your system also comes into play. Now with some of the newer Class D avr's, this become lesser of an issue since there are separate amps for each channel. You should recieve less fat bass, vocal and instrumental clarity. There is a lot more theory concerning amps. A good amp can last you 20-30 years. Buying on the used market makes a lot of sense due to cost / benefit ratio. The build quality is usually superior to an avr and heat is less of an issue, which lead to clipping, equipment burnout and lost of dynamics. Other will disagree, so in the end it is a personal choice. The avr offer the benefit of nice features compared to separate pre-amp due to the economy of scale, that stop smaller companies from upgrading formats and features as often. Not to mention the benefit of passive vertical bi-amping or electronic bi-amping for even greater benefits. Amp up the cost of a system and only you can determine wheater it was beneficial. This hobby is expensive, addictive and rewarding, lol.[]

This is not Disney, but Underworld the Awakening is a great movie for showing of the system.

This is the science behind it: Y-connector There are two formulas used to find the db ratio between sound levels. The first is used ONLY FOR POWER (watts): 10 . log (P2/P1). This formula is used when comparing Sound Intensity, measured in watts. The second is used ONLY FOR VOLTAGES (and SPL levels): 20 . log (V2/V1). This formula is for voltage relationships and Sound Pressure Levels. Using a Y adapter will add two correlated signals. When you sum two equal correlated audio signals (i.e., mono sources from sub output on the receiver/preamp), you will get twice the signal level (A1 + A2 = 2A1, since A1=A2). Therefore , since V2 = 2 V1 and the log (2) = 0.30103, it follows 20 . log (2V1/V1) = 20 . log (2) = 6dB gain in voltage. For power, it will be 10. log (2P1/P1) = 10 . log (2) = 3dB increase in power.http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=95817 , A Guide to Bass Management Part I

I have the gain or volume on the amps at the max and regulate the volume with the avr. So, the RMS wattage is really never comes into play.

Right now I am watching a BD at -20 on my SC 35 avr and my mains and front height speakers are using less than 1 watt 98% of the time. Transient peaks in the movie will increase the wattage up to around 2 watts. This is around an average listening level of 75 db, p[us or minus a few db not counting peaks. Only if the avr is at -10, which I don't use, will the wattage go up to near 20. That is very loud and not my usual listening level. For music the avr is usually between -30 to -50, so I am in no danger of blowing anything.

I agree with your statement that most speakers are not truly full band and using a subwoofer makes good sense to handle the bass work. Some people buy their speakers with the thought of how much bass the speaker can output. Only in a dedicated 2 channel setup, the speakers bass output is a keyfactor. Most of us with HT have a sub, so it makes sense to leave the heavy bass work to the power sub. With proper sub/room integration, music should also sound excellent. Surrounds usually don't get much info below 80Hz when watching BD, DVD or TV. Even when listening to extended stereo or multichannel music, having the surround X-0 below 80 yeilds very little gain in the listening experience IMHO.

The Yamaha M 85 is a legendary amp, that should make the RF 7's sing by it's self. Are you going to use an electronic X-0?

BD players go for around the same price. Check you local BB or HH Gregg. BB also have open box items with full warranty at no extra cost.

Congrats on the purchase. Can't wait to hear how you like it.

Sounds like a great plan, and one that you will be very pleased with.

I leave it on.

Great job! I have been quietly admiring you project.[Y]

The 80 Hz X-0 is ok when running a good sub like that Epik, lol. Some people like to have their mains putting out bass, but why if you have a nice sub? If running speakers set to Large the varible, varible X-0 may be a nice feature. If your woofer are not 8in. or larger like with the RF 7, 83, or heritage line, I don't see much benefit to the lower X-0, except for the sub being monoaural.

Then I read back in the fall about the guy who blew his RF 83 or 82II seeing how loud it would go, and he found out. So, long as you're not foolish, amps should not be a problem.

The speaker RMS is not that important since nobody with Klipsch in their home will run the speakers at 150 watts or what ever it is for a long time. Most of the time 20-30 would be high. My surrounds are 50-200 watts peak and I have an amp on the front height with no fear of the RMS watts and can cover the peaks without a problem. I do not know if it is sound reasoning, but the amp on the front height speaker is meant to protect the least able speaker from clipping and provide the best damping that I can provide theorectically, lol. I have driven my speaker at 100 watts for a short amount of time, way, way, to loud to take for long. The surround just never get that type of wattage except in HT.

I love letting my subs do the bass work for music. I have an Epik legend and a 15in AA modified sub. I will most likely get another legend or empire to eventually replace the 15in sub. The guy that designed the Epik subs was a music major. Enjoy!

Very nice looking system. I love the stand for the components and center speaker![Y]

Outlaw 7700 is a 7 channel amp at 200 watts/channel for one third less money. If space is a problem an avr with pre- out to drive the front stage with a 3 channel amp. I doubt if the sourround and surround back will need or see much over 100 watts. The used market is great for getting amps, but it seems you are going with new. I am sure others will chime in and help spend your money, lol.[:#] I use amps on my mains and front height with the avr taking care of the rest.

I agree that these problems can occur with any amp. I have just seen the frustration that other forum members have had with the Emotiva amps. You pay good money for a new toy and then have to deal with hiss, hums and the likes. There are a great number of members that have Emotiva amps without any problems. Good luck with locating the problem[].

I seen this post earlier and was not going to touch it until others responded, but seeing no other post, I would suggest swapping the 42 and 62 and see if the problem persist. This should at least define the problem to the speaker or the center channel. Just a thought.