J Tanman

Minor correction for dndphishin's post: If I'm not mistaken, the DB-12 is a brand new driver made specifically for the "plus" lines. The CS-U origiinally had a TV-12 driver and the SS had a different "top-of-the-line" driver. A couple months ago, the SS driver was labeled the "TV-12" and was placed in the subsequent CS-Ultras as well as the SS. The original TV-12 was discontinued. Therefore, I guess the "plus" subs are now slightly less than 80% of the new CS-Ultras. I have dual CS+ 16-46 subs and they are more than I'll ever need. IMO the best deal from SVS. Although, I would prefer the PC+ line of subs, and would suggest it instead of the CS+.

It1yw, I have the same front speakers with RS-7s as my surrounds. I listen solely to HT and 2-channel music on this system, so the multichannel music isn't really an issue. The RS-7s are great IMO for HT surrounds, they are very full sounding with good bass and the efficiency matches the KLF 20s/C7 quite well. I would love to have matching identical speakers like HornEd, but alas, I have no room to place three more huge speakers behind the couch. The direct radiating speakers are definitely a plus for multichannel music and critical placement of sounds in the rear soundstage, this is a versatile setup. But, in MY opinion for HT, I like the WDST sound better. The dispersed sound is nice, especially when outside the sweetspot. I like WDST more the dipoles because it still retains a good amount of direct sound -- best of both worlds.

If you don't have room for another pair of Legend full-range towers in the back (like me), I would suggest going with a pair of RS-3s or RS-7s. I have the RS-7s and they sound great with the KLF-20s and KLF-C7. Actally the KSP-S6 surrounds were not part of the Legend series and don't match them perfectly either. Here is a response I got from Phil. (10/9/2001) "J Tanman Actually, there never were any surround speakers designed specifically to match Legends. The best combo with Legends I have heard to date are the RS-7's, even with the tweeter difference the match is surprisingly close. The bass is our deepest yet for a set of surrounds also, so add their higher efficiency to that and you've got some really dynamic table rattling surrounds. If you can still find a KLFC-7 as center, because the center/main timbre match is the most critical, I would lean towards that. PhilH"(Klipsch moderator) After about 5 months with this combo, I can agree fully with that. Besides, in all honesty, it's hard to determine perfect timber match when the rear are WDST speakers. EDIT: I had "RF-3 and RF-7" where is should have read "RS-3 and RS-7". It should make alot more sense now. It really would be interesting to mate RF-7s with KLF-20s, but it wouldn't make much sense. This message has been edited by J Tanman on 03-25-2002 at 03:02 AM

Ear, If you're going to use the ATI 2505 for your front soundstage and the ATI 1505 for the rear, are you going to use the extra two channels on each amp to bi-amp the mains and side surrounds? Way overkill, but you might as well use them, right? Then again, there is no such thing as overkill for you. This message has been edited by J Tanman on 03-13-2002 at 05:56 PM

I have dual 16-46CS+ subs and the Samson S1000 amp. I absolutely love the sound, and I doubt that you would need more bass than they can produce. Having never heard the Legacy Deep Impact, and having no scientific measurements of either, I can't say how they compare, all I can do is cast a vote in favor of the CS+ subs. If you want even greater SPLs, I would go for the 20-39 tuning, but go for the "Plus" line - best bang for your buck. If you are not in a hurry and want a self-powered sub, I'd wait for the PC+ line to come out. It looks to be very promising (especially after the quality of the PCi upgrades). Either way, the SVS "plus" subs will easily keep up with your RF-3IIs. They easily keep up with RF-7s and KLF 30s. As far as amp suggestions, I'll leave that up to someone else to answer. I'm not sure about the quality of those pro amps, but I do like the performance of the S1000.

Great, I bet you can't wait to get them. You said that you plan on getting a third "pair" to modify into center channel speakers. I assume you're going to make front and rear center speakers out of the pair like HornEd did with his KLF30s. If so, what do you plan on using to power the rear center with the ATI 2505? You also stated that you'll be using 1" thick high density particle board, is that the same has HDF (as opposed to MDF)? I wonder if there is any difference between MDF and the pressed wood used in budget furniture? Now you're going to need to build a reinforced shelf to hold those two huge and heavy RF-7s over your TV and behind your seat. Have fun with your new project. Just my opinion, but I would rather get the SVS SS subs ASAP and delay the Sunfire upgrade for now. But then again, I want your review of the new SS subs. HornEd, I just posted this then saw your post. Did you "horizontalize" your rear center KLF30 also, or did you set it up as is (vertical)? This message has been edited by J Tanman on 03-12-2002 at 08:32 PM

I definitely don't think the two subs are overkill if you want the bass, but I have wondered if it is good to mix two different tuned subs like that. Would there be an imbalance down low due to only one sub being able to reach that low. In that case, the lowest registers of 14-18Hz would effectively be rolled off and would not be as usable due to the higher levels at the 18+ Hz of the 20-39CS+. Does this make sense? I would think the balance would be better if you used the same tuning on both subs. Any opinions?

I am curious in regard to Pre/Pros, do most of you actually need to keep up anually with the emerging technologies, or is it force of habit? Also, what new technologies do you forsee in the next year or so? I am planning on getting the Outlaw 950 and keeping it for many years to come. In fact, I am planning on only using 5.1 for a while. The DPL II is a nice feature, but I am not desperate for it. Mostly I am looking to upgrade the sound quality and input options from my current receiver. Keeping up to date is always nice, but is it really as necessary as it is often made out to be? This is a hobby, and as such is personal/subjective, I'm just curious what other opinions are.

I would like to hear an HT with a combination of RSW subs and the SVS subs. The RSWs seem to be very clean and accurate (haven't heard them yet, waiting for my dealer to get them in) and their strengths would seem to mesh well with the SVSs. How about 2 RSW 12s and 2 16-46 SVS CS+ subs for the really subsonic bass. Would be interesting.

HornEd, Honestly, I am just an amateur/hobbiest, so my knowledge is quite limited. I wish I had more contacts with professional photographers/imagers so I could learn more. I know I have tons of questions to ask. Wow, you really have had incredible amounts of experience with imaging. I probably have lower standards that you, that's why I am more easily satisfied with current digital technology, although I completely agree with you that the current lot of cameras are only placeholders that will be replaced soon, that's why I'm going to wait a while to upgrade. Well, I'm not going to give any more of my opinions in light of your vast knowledge (being sincere), besides, this isn't really the place for it. Now back to subs. Someday, I want to get another pair of CS+ subs for the other corner of my HT, but I think I'll wait until I can build a reinforced bunker to handle the subterannean activity. I think my phone is ringing with my dealer calling to tell me they finally got the RSW subs in. Must listen.

HornEd, I was not at all offended, in fact I'm confused now. If I seemed offended, I appologize. I was sincere and truly thought you were an imaging expert. Its amazing how many peoply I meet that are interested in HiFi where it turns out they are also big photo enthusiasts, and the vice versa -- us boys and our toys/hobbies. If you haven't already, you need to look at some large format prints from images taken with the Nikon D1x or the Canon EOS 1D or the Canon EOS D60. I've seen some with no post-processing, just simply up-sizing in the printer itself turn out with no grain, no noise, and no obvious pixelation (40x60 viewed carefully from 6"). Believe me, I was once a skeptic, now I'm a believer. Kind of like with SACD. Sorry to take up more BB space, now back to subs. Speaking of which, I never put any of my expensive lenses in my trunk with the subs, call it paranoia. I definitely wouldn't bring any lenses into The Ears or HornEds house with the seizmik bass and Klipschs pumping . This message has been edited by J Tanman on 03-01-2002 at 12:05 AM

HornEd, not being as seasoned a veteran to this BB as others, I forgot that you have been a big imaging expert throughout life. Its true that digital photography might not yet be up to medium and large format photography, but it is very convenient and honestly I can't tell much of a difference up to 40x60 prints except that the digital image has no grain. I actually got to go to some of the PMA convention these past two years since its been in Orlando,FL. I'm constantly amazed at the new techonology. I'm already on my fourth digicam and wanting to upgrade yet again (told you--addictive, and I'm not a pro, just a hobbiest). It's great to go on photo safaris/outings since HiFi and HT are great recreation at home, photography is great recreation that gets you off the couch and observing the different visual aspects of the world. Seb, those are also great digital imaging sites, although DPReview is my main one. Another good one for photojournalistic photograpy is www.robgalbraith.com. Sorry to divert from the HT/audio topics, but after all, the sole purpose of photography is to take beautiful pictures of HiFi equipment that does them justice, right? I'm also wanting to see more pics of The Ears many systems.

Somewhat OT but since you guys started talking about digital photography my other addiction, I thought I'd point you to a forum where you can get a great deal of info if you're in the market for a digicam. The site is www.dpreview.com. I always learn new things from this site, just a suggestion. HornEd, I wouldn't feel bad about getting the Oly E20, you really can't go wrong with it. How are you enjoying it so far?

I'm curious how they compare to the "great" home audio sub drivers. For example how the new JL Audio W7 would compare to the driver in the SVS SS sub. I must admit, the W7 looks incredible. Honestly most car subs look more "highly" engineered than do home audio subs, of course this may just be aesthetics since the backs of car subs are often shown off instead of hidden in an opaque enclosure as are home subs. Of course sound is the most important. Some of the greatest drivers (e.g. ScanSpeak) have rear structures that are nothing to behold, but they sound incredble. I would love to hear a showdown of some of the best car subs vs. the best home subs in comparable enclusures.

Thanks for your opinions. I too came to roughly the same conclusions. I just wish I could have compared them directly side-by-side.

Any opinions?

I am rather new to Klipsch speakers and have not had the chance to directly (side-by-side) compare these three speakers (due to KLFs being discontinued). I am curious what your opinions on what the major differences are between these three speakers.

T-man, Personally, I would go with dual CS+ subs. For only a couple hundred extra you could get "80% of the performance" of dual Ultras. Or, get a singls CS+ sub now and maybe add another later, and save several hundred for now. I was just about to purchase one Ultra for now and add another later, then the announcement of the CS+ came out and I immediately placed a pre-order for dual 16/46 CS+ subs. It also will give me better bass extension (16Hz tuning) at the sacrifice of a couple of dBs, but more than enough output for me. Just a suggestion.

Ear, I have a question for you since you have a vast array of subs. How would you compare the Revel B15 to the Aerial SW12 in SPLs and in quality/articulation of bass? Also, you would equate a single SVS Ultra to roughly the same performance as the Aerial SW12 correct? I'm trying to get an idea how these three subs would compare to each other. Oh, how is the B15 compared to the HGS 18? I only have had the opportunity to hear the HGS 18 and the B15.

Max, I forgot about that! Unfortunately, I am using a separate rack amplifier for SVS subs which doesn't have any crossover network. Any good priced suggestions for an active crossover? How about any good suggestions for a typical two channel preamp that is of high quality and under $1000? Thanks.

I am looking for a good clean preamp for 2 channel music only that is $1000 or less. Ideally I would like to find a way to have some sort of bass management/active crossover so that I can send a limited frequency range to the main amps and a separate signal to the sub amps. Does this exist outside of a digital HT preamp? Thanks for any suggestions.

I don't have any explanations, but along with this topic I have another question on analog vs. digital inputs on the pre/pro. With just two channel inputs such as a CD player, TV, other various video sources, does it bypass the bass management of the receiver? I know the 6 channel analog inputs do, but how about all other analog inputs? If not, then is the signal converted to digital then back to analog? Thanks for any info.

Anybody have any more info on the Mitsubishi 8020 DVD player? I've checked hometheaterforum, but have not gotten any significant info on this DVD player.

I'm not sure about the Forte IIs, but I have KLF 20s and the KLF-C7 and I use RS-7s with them and they sound great together. I would think that either the RS-3IIs or the RS-7s would sound great with your combination.

I recently bought the HK DVD 50 and the picture quality was great, but the disc changing mechanism was painfully slow and after a week it completely crashed. The picture kept flickering and shifting then the player froze up and wouldn't give me back my discs. I unplugged/replugged the power cord and I was then able to retrieve me DVDs. I read that this is a firmware problem and that HK has addressed it, but I would make certain that the player you get is updated and that it is easily returnable/exchangeable. Other than that, if it works properly, it is quite a nice Progressive DVD changer.