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interesting, thanks. i wasn't aware they changed diaphragms, guess mine are earlier forte2 & chorus2 with the textured diaphragms.

no offense taken on my part, just replying to your comments & comparisons... i didnt compare anything to a horn sub, however, your comparison is using the biggest sub SVS makes... im keeping on track with the OPs comments that he has limited space (as most people do) if i compared anything it was a similar sized SVS to his little klipsch subs... that would be the sb2000pro or sb3000 that are all of a ~14" cube. & at their new or used prices they are hard to beat for everything you get with SVS. im not very familiar with all the horn loaded options but based on the comments above they are priced pretty high, $1500-2000+ without an amp, vs a $1000 new or $700-800 used SB3000 that will outperform his & most other klipsch subs in every way. plus all the other benefits i mention that yourself & some others dont seem to acknowledge yet are very important when buying a new or used sub. im not brand specific & far from a fan boy of any brand, ive owned a lot of subs & speakers over the years from K-horns to KGs & CF4s & countless others in between, maybe not as many as some on here or as large but ive had my share of pretty decent speakers, subs & audio gear & the suggestions i make are based on my experiences with consumer type subs/speakers. nothing wrong with sharing INFORMATION, im sure many appreciate it, its just totally off topic for this thread & nobody was trying to compare horn sub performance to other common subs. also, who the heck needs 130db in their home!?? i have been to A-list rock concerts that reach into the 120dbs & youre ears are muffled & ringing for days afterwards! back in the late 80's in my city we had a rock band try & set the guiness book world record for loudest concert, they did 127db & it was ridiculous! ive been to coutless rock concerts & tried to recreate that sound level in my home for a long time in my teens & 20s-early 30s... im done with all that now & would never care to have a sub or system to reach into the 120s let alone 130db unless i was throwing a huge party outdoors or in a huge venue.... i have a smaller house in a residential neighborhood!

posted in error, please delete...

can anyone confirm if this is an original forte/2 tweeter diaphragm? from what i can tell it is not an original klipsch part when compared to other diaphragms in my fortes or chorus or other similar models that use this tweeter. did klipsch change the diaphragms at some point? i bought this from an ebay seller that stated it was original to his forte but when i pull the tweeter from my fortes it looks different & is not marked with the same numbers, the originals are a textured material & this one is perfectly smooth. just curious before try & use it. thanks. 1st pic is an original with textured dome & 2nd pic is what looks like an aftermarket replacement, has "02-2014" marked near the terminals.

emotional brand fanboy??? LOL!!! your use of CAPS for so many words is whats EMOTIONAL... you clearly are missing the points i explained & continue the SVS bashing for some strange reason... NOBODY is trying to compare a direct radiating sub to a horn loaded sub! ive said 2 or 3 times now that there are better subs than SVS or any given brand of direct radiator subs, its a simple suggestion for a very good sub with many benefits no other brand or DIY sub has. so you can save youre umbrella of audio physics argument for someone else, nobody here is doubting that. re-read what i said again please... not everyone wants or needs or can build a DIY horn sub & run external amps & crossovers, countless people are more than happy with pre made subs with internal amps & most look way better than a DIY horn sub. in fact i bet 9 out of 10 average people out there use a premade direct rad sub & they are all as happy as can be vs horn loaded subs. & AGAIN, thats fine if thats what YOU prefer or anyone wants or needs, but your horn loaded svs bashing parade is very short & not many people are attending it. theres a reason why SVS & many other sub brands get 5 star reviews & win all kinds of awards... wonder why klipsch & majority of other brands dont make a prebuilt horn loaded consumer sub?? the OP started this thread to comment how his smaller cheap subs benefit the big cornwalls, i simply suggested a better sub thats still rather small if/when he wanted to upgrade. sorry if that offended you.

thanks. im far from worried & more than happy with what my dual sb2000 toy subs do for music & movies in a medium sized 21x16 room. & they arent even dialed in yet, just basic tuning & placement thats less than ideal. its actually a huge improvement over just the speakers, i listen to classic/modern rock & some heavier metal type music that doesnt really have super low bass & these fill in & add to the above ~40hz very well, & with more bass heavy electronic rock music they really come alive & fill the entire room with tight deep bass. ive owned lots of subs over the years & always preferred sealed for music & been happy with them for movies. back in the day i owned velodyne servo F series subs, they are sealed & were incredible for the lower power amps they had. im sure bigger or ported subs will have more max DB but myself & many others dont want or need max DB. like west coast said, all that really matters in this or any hobby is that you are happy with what you have.

brand bashing= "SVS are toy subs"... & awhile ago i asked about comparing a single SVS sb13ultra to dual sb2000s & got nothing but claiming those SVS models wouldnt work with my chorus 2 because they are "big boy" speakers & i need huge 15" ported sub(s) or horn loaded subs or nothing at all... LOL. fact is a good smaller or sealed sub can help almost any speaker by adding the lower octave the speaker cant produce or lacks, doesnt have to be huge impact, a subtle fill in of those <~35-40hz frequecies makes a very noticeable difference. & saying "you wont hear it" means it will disappear with the system when set up right, thats kind of the goal is to not be able to localize a sub, not have it over power the main speakers. everyone has different needs & tastes for their system, if you have the room, need & $ for a big sub by all means get one or 2 or 3, but claiming a good smaller sub or 2 wont improve most speakers or that you need a floor to ceiling stack of sealed subs is flat out wrong.

hate to rain on this parade but SVS are far from toy subs, their mid to upper end subs are very good & competitive to other brands at the same price points & they get very good reviews from practically everyone that hears or owns them. thats fine if you or the other naysayers dont like them, have you ever heard a good SVS sub? strange how so many others love them but a couple on here feel the need to constantly bash them or compare them to subs 2-3 times their size or of a different design. & as i mention every time i suggest them, of course there are better subs, nobody is claiming SVS are the best or better than HUGE horn loaded subs you need to build. not everyone needs that type of sub nor can they fit them in their rooms, most people have space limitations or WAF to consider & they dont want to build a sub or pay someone to do it & run external amps & crossovers etc etc. SVS has many benefits i mentioned above that no other sub company or DIY sub has, that is why i suggest them & based on my experience even their mid level subs are as good or better than many other similar priced brands or almost any klipsch sub of comparable price new or used. also consider used SVS for less money than new, i bought my sb2000 for $400ea with 3 years of transferable warranty left & the Sb3000 is one of their best bang for the buck mid level subs & can be bought new on their outlet store for $999 & usually $750-800 used. just a suggestion to consider for a small sub with very good specs & performance. sounds like the OP was impressed with the cheap small klipsch subs with his cornwalls, i suggested SVS for a good performance increase & all the other benefits they offer. he clearly stated he doesnt have space for huge horn or ported subs...try & keep things in perspective for what hes asking about.

everyone has their favorite brands & reasons for liking them... but SVS has some very nice subs & in that price range of $1500 i think their $1500 comparable sub is easily as good if not better in performance alone, but will REL refund your money if youre not happy? or allow full value trade in to upgrade?? or let you transfer the warranty to a new owner if you sell it after a couple years? all those things are huge benefits that have value when buying a new sub. turning your nose up at SVS is fine if justified... but theres a reason why "everyone buys a damn SVS" they are very good performing subs for any given price point & have a lot more benefits than any other sub brand out there.

agreed the sub is not the best place for the amp & its mostly for convenience. however, the main reason for failures in most subs is most these amps & components are china made crap. some are better quality than others but most "mid level" subs, regardless of brand, are built with very cheap parts. even higher end sub amps are usually china made, but many use better quality parts & are held to higher quality control. china can & does make some good stuff but most companies have their parts made there to boost their profits & quality/reliability suffers.

he just measured it wrong , lots of people dont measure woofers right. when you measure just the cone of a 12" woofer its only ~10" , need to factor in the surrounds & usually the entire frame of the driver. a forte 12" woofer is only 12" if you measure the entire OD of the driver. this is a 12" KD13 passive. looks like hes parting out a pair of quartets, has the woofers, mids & tweeters as well as xovers & one decent cabinet... all at very good prices including shipping!

could be loose wire connection or issue with the crossover like something physically broken or came loose. check the tweeters with an ohm meter & the x-over & wire connections before just assuming the tweeters are bad. they very well could be blown but worth checking, there was just a recent thread on here with a non working tweeter that ended up being a connection came loose... also a cf3 with a broken part of the crossover.

why is it so difficult for klipsch service to respond in a timely manner? every other company or utility i call answers the phone on the 4th or 5th ring or maybe a few minutes on hold. & emails are replied to within days with the answer. this has been an ongoing issues for almost 2 years now. it took over a month & closer to 2 months for a reply from klipsch on a basic question for parts i sent a few months ago & one early last year. & when i waited on hold for 20 minutes for an answer on a tuesday afternoon, the guy was not helpful at all & i had to fight for simple basic info on price & part availability. if they can reply saying "we dint forget about you" why cant they just look up the parts info people are asking for & include that in the reply?? is klipsch still using paper catalogs or sending an employee to the parts warehouse to manually search for a part??? sorry but the "service" you get from klipsch service lately is terrible.

i get right around 8.7ohms on the tweeters in my forte2 & chorus2, give or take a couple tenths. fortes should be the same as far as i know but maybe other members can confirm that if they have a forte tweeter handy. i cant say for sure on the originals, maybe klipsch still carries them, will have to call or email them. some other companies sell repro diaphragms like simply speakers. there are mixed reviews on the titaniums but for the most part they get very positive reviews, i use a set in my chorus 2 & they seem to be an improvement, especially at higher volumes. can alwyas look for used originals, they pop up for sale here occasionally.

the 12" passive is for original fortes, the forte 2 use a 15". if you dont have tags you cant identify them but sometimes there is an inspection tag inside the cabinet that may have a date on it, but it wont have a seial #.

before messing with xovers/caps, pull the tweeters & check ohms reading with a meter. if blown you can buy new diaphragms of either stock type or upgrade to the titanium from crites. caps can be changed for very low cost if you can solder, very easy to do on chorus & others from this era.

if those arent the common mylar type caps, the "klipsch approved guys" mylar caps wont be the correct type. from what crites has stated, changing the electrolytic caps in the woofer circuit to poly caps will not make any audible improvement since the lytic caps arent in the mid/tweet section. some say otherwise but hard to say how much of their perceived improvement is placebo effect. i would just replace the lytics & see how the speakers sound & go from there. plus a poly cap in that 40uf value will be HUGE & hard to place on the boards.

agree with using subs for 99% of speakers out there, klipsch or other brand. the fact that you heard an improvement to big cornwalls with even cheap subs just goes to show that even "big boy" speakers can benefit from using subs, even smaller ones. majority of speakers fall off after 40hz or maybe upper 30hz, decent subs play down into the 20's or even teens & will add that missing lower octave for most music & especially movies. i have chorus 2 & have owned countless other large klipsch & other brands, they all benefit from subs, even smaller ones. you dont "need" huge subs or horn loaded subs as some insist to increase the performance of most speakers, especially heresy or lascala that are definitely lacking on lower bass. depending on your budget, i would suggest looking into SVS for all their benefits from cust service to warranty to free in home trials & upgrade program, even their entry level subs are as good or far better than your $200 klipsch sub. the mid range 2000/3000 SVS subs are top rated & will be all many/most people will ever need for music/movies on the average mid-fi system in a small to medium sized room. i have dual SVS SB2000 in a 21x15 room & they are barely set at half of max volume with excellent performance. yes there are better/bigger/way more expensive subs or even good deals for DIY subs, but if youre happy with those klipsch subs, you will be amazed at others a little higher up the food chain.

if the auto off feature isnt working it either went bad or there is noise in the line from something like maybe a ground loop in the power cable. easiest way to deal with it not shutting off is to get a power strip or surge suppressor with an on/off switch. good idea to have a surge supp anyways for audio gear to protect from lightning & power surges. leaving the sub on all the time is debatable, even with the auto off feature the amp is still seeing power to portions of the circuits & from what ive been told by eletronics guys is that its best to unplug or switch off the power when not in use for long periods of time, a couple days shouldnt be a problem, more for like if you dont use it all week when at work & only for a few hours on the weekend, or when away on vacation etc.

the sub wont work if you connect the AVR sub out to the line out on the sub. they are just as labeled, one is for the line in to get a signal to the sub, & one is for line out to send a crossed over signal to a separate amp.

think i recall reading on here recently that the resonance is part of the design on fortes & chorus etc. there was a long thread on the AK forums i posted here a year or so ago where a guy did some major mods to the F3 that included the common internal bracing & lots of added damping material... the results were that they lost bass & upper bass impact. while i do agree forte1/2 & especially chorus1/2 have a lot of resonance/ringing when slapping the sides, i tend to side with the engineers that designed them knowing they did this & it was part of the characteristic of the speaker. adding some damping to the horns & woofer/passive baskets & maybe a little extra to cabinets probably wont hurt, but getting carried away with bracing on a speaker that wasnt designed for it might have diminishing returns.

i agree the differences between F3 & F4 are much more significant than F1 to F2, my main point was the price difference/loss going from F3 to F4 after a couple years. maybe someday soon i will hear the F3 & f4 & change my mind that $3000+ price difference is worth the upgrade, in the meantime i would much rather spend that $3000 on a nice pair of used K-horns, or other models like lascala & a nice sub or 4 KPT 904s or KPT456 & have better speakers than the F4 & have $1000+ left over.

Your math makes no sense. It’s not a 4000 upgrade. It’s only the difference between the price of the two speakers, also factoring in depreciation for the earlier model. But it’s not 4K. the math was a general comment. however, if someone paid $3000+ for F3 then buys F4 for $4000-- correction $4998 at most places, thats a ~$2000 difference. of course you can sell the F3s to recoup some money but after depreciation you'd get maybe $2000 used, usually closer to half the initial investment. you spent $3000, sell for $1500-$2000, thats a $1000-1500 loss, then turn around & spend $5000 for the F4... so the new number comparison is $3000+ to upgrade from F3 to F4s. each person has a different budget but for the most part i dont see that being a bargain or money well spent.

nice! cant even come close to the sound of these for that price or double! if i was closer they would be my 5th set of 5.5s. looking closer... the top woofer on the right speaker has been changed from the original, still worth 200 bucks.

the axial caps are very easy to use, the leads are plenty long that you can bend them into shape to fit right into the stock holes on the board. i like the tighter tolerances of the 6% vs the 10% of most other lytic caps. they do have a minimum order but their shipping charges are lower than most other places, if you keep the order under 1lb (which is a LOT of caps) they ship first class for under $5.