001

thanks for chiming in dean. same question about the capacitors, how can you tell they are stock if the OPs pics dont show the rest of the caps? all i can see is one blue lytic cap in his pics. they could indeed be stock, just suggesting maybe they arent since the wires were replaced. EDIT: on second thought, the top board where it attaches to the posts does look like original unbroken glue, so they are probably still all original but with changed wires. & speaking of wires, any input on the twisting causing a noticeable issue with the sound? knowing they are what some consider quality brand name wires & expensive, wouldnt kimber know if twisting their wires was a bad thing? genuinely curious since ive never heard of twisted wires being an issue if they were designed that way.

& how can you tell that by the pics he posted? his pics dont show the rest of the caps? someone changed the wires for some reason at some point, its very possible they changed capacitors too. need him to post more pics to confirm that.

sorry cant answer your technical questions on inductance/impedance of those wires. how much inductance would a 1ft run of twisted wires create vs untwisted? just saying its doubtful the wires are causing the issues he's hearing. its not easy enough for the average person to do a frequency sweep... but its easy to simply untwist the wires or replace them with a straight run in one speaker & then compare to the other speaker. im guessing nobody can tell the difference, or at least not repeatably in a blind A-B test. & thats all that really matters is what the average human ear can hear.

the wires are definitely not original for klipsch chorus, someone has replaced the internal wires & quite possibly the capacitors, the small blue electrolytic looks original but strange the wires were replaced. can you post a pic of the underside of the top board to see what caps are in it? as for the twisted wires, i doubt that will make any noticeable difference in the sound, some speaker wires are made twisted like that on purpose, not sure why but ive seen them made like that before. any sound difference vs untwisted wires on that short of a length is probably minimal to nonexistent. the capacitor thing is debatable & majority of people say they notice a big improvement when replacing the stock mylar caps, with either the same stock type or other poly types, the caps can & frequently do go bad from age, which is all relative to how they were treated in their life. ive owned speakers that i abused daily more than the average person for 20+ years & they sound fine still, yet ive bought speakers from the original owner that lived in an apartment & said he never turned them up much but they sounded like crap, thats the chorus2 i own now that sounded like a wet towel was covering the front, some budget poly caps made them sound as good as new, & that was comparing them to 2 pair of stock cap chorus2 i had here at the same time that sounded great. the electrolytics obviously can go bad sooner but they are not in the signal path so have minimal effect on the mid/tweet frequencies, in my experience. worst case scenario is they will let a little bit of higher freq bleed through to the woofer. the amp comment i made earlier isnt about current the voice coil can handle before melting. its that on higher power speakers, low wattage doesnt get the woofer moving as well as higher power does, a few other members here have verified this on chorus speakers & other higher power speakers like the EPIC line or big KLFs etc. of course they will sound good with quality lower power amps like tubes, thats the high efficiency of the speaker, what i meant was that on chorus with the high power PRO K48 woofer, low wattage doesnt really get it moving as well as higher (quality) watts will. having a higher power amp means there is a reserve or headroom that will produce better bass, lower distortion & overall better sound for all frequencies, watt for watt. thats why a 25 watt per channel amp wont sound as good up loud as a 100 watt amp of the same type/brand... especially on higher watt speakers. ive confirmed this on many different speakers using the same series of adcom amps but more power, a GFA555ii will make a higher power speaker sound better, go louder & have a lot better low bass than a GFA 535ii... 200wpc vs 65wpc. my apologies if i didnt explain that the right way. but again, im no expert so will refrain from questioning what the captain says above, just stating my experience.

LOL! just want to be sure we understand each other best. its smarter to replace caps only, the other parts in the crossover dont go bad, its only the caps that affect the sound. aftermarket parts will NOT "mess up the sound of your speakers" thousands & thousands of people use crites for crossover work & are very happy with the results, but some seem to have a problem with that & think only stock klipsch caps sound good... many other members on here use better quality caps with excellent results & 99+% are more than happy. nothing wrong with using the stock caps but its not required as implied. i will leave it at that since the capacitor subject is kinda touchy around here. best of luck whatever you decide.

yes, correct. sorry for any confusion on my part. remove the screws & the whole thing will come out. sometimes it can be stuck in there from the gaskets but gently prying with a small screwdriver or knife will let them come out.

can you post a pic of what youre seeing? if they are original, they are attached to the speaker wire terminal on the back of the speaker, you just remove the screws around that terminal cup from the back side of the cabinet & the whole assembly will pull out. stock crossovers are not screwed to the back wall. a pic would help but will be very easy for you to remove the speaker wire terminal from the back of the speaker first before removing the woofer.. which is VERY heavy so need to be careful when removing the woofer.

the crossover (filter) is attached to the speaker terminal cup, remove the screws & it will come right out of the cabinet, no need to google that. mark the wires with something to know where they go, but most klipsch crossovers have the wire location marked on the board. or take a pic before removing the wires. if you know someone that can work on your amp they definitely can replace a few capacitors, just gotta decide what caps you want to use. i use ERSE Pulse X caps on my chorus 2 & forte2 with excellent results & they are only a few dollars each, have also used daytons & solen brands from parts express on other speakers. the titanium tweet diaphragms are very easy to replace, no soldering & made a nice improvement in the higher frequencies on my chorus. let us know what you do & how it sounds afterwards.

youre very welcome, im far from an "expert" but have owned a lot of klipsch of this era as well as many other brands over the 30+ years ive been in this hobby. ive also replaced quite a few capacitors on speakers & they alll have a noticeable improvement. lots of good info on this forum... & lots of bad info, just gotta sort through it all. the crossovers are attached to the rear speaker terminal & will pull right out removing the 4 screws, mark where the wires go & you can remove them to work on them or send them to someone that can do the work. id offer to help but im sure there are others on here just as or far more capable than me. i ship international all the time for auto parts i sell so if i can help order & ship some capacitors to you id be happy to help. also check out crites speakers website for lots of info, they can replace the caps for you for a decent price. i also think the titanium tweeters would help a lot & make the chorus sound "fresher" & crisper. you can also watch some youtube videos on how to solder, its really very easy if you practice some... or maybe find a local electronic repair shop or a friend or family member that can solder. or post a wanted ad on here for someone that would replace the caps for you, should be able to find a member that will help for not a lot of money.

replace the capacitors if/when you are ready. personally i say 30 years on stock caps is a good time to consider replacing them. based on your description i would say that is not the normal sound for chorus, they should sound as good or better than the heresy, they are a few steps above the heresy on the klipsch chain of models & price level. also consider the chorus handle a lot more power than heresy, so at yoru normal listening volume the chorus are barely being pushed, they can handle something like 1000 watts peak. tubes are great for klipsch speakers but for the bigger models like chorus, many prefer a good solid state amp with at least 100 watts per channel, or even 2oowpc... you dont need to use all that power but having it in reserves will make any speaker sound better & allow for much better bass.

you dont have to listen to them for a week to see if anything changes, never heard of that one before. the sound wont change after a day or a week or a month related to capacitors... caps need to be checked with an expensive meter to know if they are out of spec or degraded & they need to be removed from the board to do that. caps do degrade over time & how the speakers were treated during their life. some on here will claim caps dont go bad but thats not really true, i have had klipsch speakers & others that the caps definitely were bad, most recent was my pair of chorus2 that i bought used, ive owned countless klipsch speakers & have a good idea what they sound like, the chorus2 sounded like a towel was covering the fronts, very muddy & dull mids & tweets but all drivers checked out good, i replaced the caps with budget but good quality caps from ERSE & noticed an immediate difference & they now sound as good as new or better compared to other stock chorus2 i have owned. can you do basic soldering or know a friend that can? replacing the capacitors is really very easy to do on these speakers, you can buy the same value caps from a number of sources & many different levels of quality & price, all depends on your budget. many people use crites speakers to replace the caps as they offer a service to do that or you can buy the kit from them & do yourself but the caps they sell are just common sonicap brands that can be purchased direct from the manufacturer for a little less money, or you can use mid grade caps like dayton from parts express or many other brands that are a few dollars each all the way to $20-$100 each. another recent option that some like are the klipsch authorized caps that are the same mylar type as original but many say they are not as good of quality as other polypropylene caps so again it comes down to your choice/budget. but the improvement is replacing the 30 year old possibly degraded caps, even some cheap daytons will sound much better than whats in there now. chorus are considered very good speakers & should sound better than heresy, especially in the bass & overall soundstage they produce, they are similar in that they both are 3 way & have the same type of mid horn. listen to them for awhile & make sure all drivers are working good, maybe even pull the mid & tweets & measure with an ohm meter to confirm they are within spec & same for all drivers. another option to consider is to use titanium tweeter diaphragms, they are not very expensive & most say they make a very good improvement of higher frequencies. final thing to play with is positioning, most speakers will have better bass when placed in or near the corners of the room & slightly towed in towards the listening position. hope that info helps & congrats on some excellent speakers!

probably best to just google "copper screws" & look for whats available to meet your needs, lots of choices & most places will ship international. i dont think klipsch sells the screws they use but you can always email them & wait a month or more for a an answer. https://www.google.com/search?q=copper+screws&source=hp&ei=2NwkYsWuMKibptQPzu6DwAc&iflsig=AHkkrS4AAAAAYiTq6AiU0Q32JfEabUQuJpfBlJpefTy8&ved=0ahUKEwjF-uvW77H2AhWojYkEHU73AHgQ4dUDCAk&uact=5&oq=copper+screws&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAMyBQgAEIAEMgUIABCABDIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEMgUIABCABDIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEMgUIABCABDIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEOhEILhCABBCxAxCDARDHARDRAzoICAAQgAQQsQM6CwguEIAEEMcBEKMCOg4ILhCABBCxAxDHARCjAjoICC4QsQMQgwE6CwguEIAEEMcBENEDOggIABCxAxCDAToOCC4QgAQQsQMQgwEQ1AI6CAguEIAEENQCOgsILhCABBDHARCvAToOCC4QgAQQsQMQxwEQrwE6CwgAEIAEELEDEIMBOgUIABCxAzoLCC4QsQMQxwEQrwE6CAgAEIAEEMkDOgUILhCABFAAWJ8RYIEVaABwAHgAgAFtiAGaCJIBBDExLjKYAQCgAQE&sclient=gws-wiz

mumps? says no horns included--- this is only for the bottoms.

they are CHERRY FINISH & are very late 1995 date... version 3. sale is pending in less than 24 hours so looks like they are worth $1800 to someone.

probably not much to read on the klipsch cabinet resonance thing, it was some comments on a recent thread that said the cabinets are part of the design. maybe post a new thread asking why they do this. lots of people brace the cabinets & swear to the improvements so im sure theres some valid benefits to it & some benefits to not doing it. its not just the Kg series, its pretty much all models of klipsch, they dont do any real bracing in the cabinets & internal sound damping is minimal... that would suggest its done for a reason... yet most other mid to upper level speakers have a lot of internal bracing & absorbing material & other features to avoid the speaker sounding "boxy".

probably easier to buy original KG4 woofers for them or some of the repro copies so the specs stay as original design for the cabinet. experimenting with other woofers will be hit or miss & a waste of money if they dont work as good as the originals. im sure youve seen whats available on ebay since you bought other parts but if not, heres some current kg woofer options. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=klipsch+kg4+woofer&_sacat=0 as for bracing the cabinets, you will get mixed opinions on that, being they are so small they are more rigid than a larger cabinet so probably dont really need bracing... but some recent comments on here suggest the cabinets are part of the speaker design & they will lose some of the bass if braced or braced too much. one guy on the AK forum did some heavy bracing & added insulation to some forte3 & said they lost a lot of the bass impact & depth compared to stock. i would focus on getting some good/correct drivers, new gaskets for them & spend your time & money on the crossovers & maybe consider the titanium diaphragms? KG4 are great speakers for the price/size, i wouldnt try to deviate from their original design too much, but thats just my opinion, im sure others will have more input for you if you decide to go further down the modification rabbit hole.

mine was. sarcasm of your comment(s) about sealed subs.

simple answer, yes. a good sub, of any design or size, will increase the bass performance of most speakers. the KLF20 & other larger speakers have very good bass alone but a sub will add the lower octave most speakers cant produce or not very well & will increase the bass above ~40hz. some dont feel the need for a sub even with speakers known to lack lower bass & some feel the need for big massive subs, & there is nothing wrong with either, its all personal preference.

it was a sarcastic comment... you know, like when you used it in regards to a suggestion of sealed subs. was that being of help or ranting on?

didnt ignore anything or not listen to you... i said i agree with the points you & others made for horn subs, i was aware of horn subs & their benefits before this, even looked at some of the DIY ones people have mentioned but just wasnt practical for me at this time. but this thread wasnt about horn subs, it turned into that when the comparison of horn subs of any size to the toy sub SVS thing started. the topic was CHEAP SMALL SUBS MADE ME FALL IN LOVE, i didnt know the budget or level of upgrade desired so i suggested another small sub that could be had for less than $500ea on the used market. after that it took a left turn & went way off track, im usually only on here in the late mornings every few days & when i signed back in over the next day or 2 it became all this other stuff. im sure the other info was helpful & people can learn something from it, i know i did. my apologies if anything i posted contributed to that or was taken the wrong way, just trying to keep things on track & mention my experiences with smaller subs & bigger speakers like the OPs situation.

the whole horn loaded sub tangent or comparing a suggested brand or type of sub to another this thread & others like it turn into would be like if a member asked for advice on buying some heresys & stated he doesnt have room, budget or need for bigger speakers. then gets a bunch of replies saying you dont want heresys because they are small & sealed etc... you need K-horns or jubilees or nothing else because they are horn loaded, heresys wont have any impact unless they are stacked to the ceiling. then people start talking about how a driver works or what the proper terminology is for a woofer vs driver etc etc. it becomes completely off topic & unrelated to what the member asked about kinda like how the OP here wanted to mentioned he was surprised & happy with what a couple of the cheapest small klipsch subs did for his cornwalls. yet after 7 pages of posts 9 out of 10 replies werent even related to his post. nothing wrong with conversation but sometimes forum threads get so far off track it becomes counter productive. stay on topic or start another thread to discuss other things. to the OP, please update this to let us know what you decided to go with for new subs... or start another thread.

looks very nice! the recone kit is the way to go for correct looking passives, if you have the basket & weight still.

agreed, iv spent a lot of time with lascalas when my sisters x-boyfriend bought a pair brand new, pushed by 200w adcom amp, they were very loud but lacked any real lower bass. most those comments about people saying lascalas have all the bass they need, have usually never heard them with a good sub or a good full range speaker that doesnt drop off at at upper 40h or 50z! bingo! thats what ive been trying to point out in this thread & many others where people get into debates or arguments over speakers or bass or amps etc, everyone wants & needs & likes different things, if youre happy with your lascalas thats all that matters, but realize that they are not producing the lower octaves possible with a good sub... of any type.

im a huge tool fan, probably in my top 3 favorite bands for heavier rock. ive seen them 4 times, i skipped the show before covid since it was so expensive & i wasnt a big fan of their recent ambum to justify seeing them. the earlier shows werent as loud but the last one i went to for 10,000 days album was like you explained, but we did sit dead center on the first row of the balcony that all the big overhead speakers were pointing at to fill sound in to teh nose bleed areas... actually tickled my ears on some of the loudest peaks, & not in a good way. the show in the 80s was motley crue & i was about 13 years old, i think they tied or did set a record but im sure thats been beat by now. was quite the experience for me at such a young age, but today i prefer medium level volumes but with strong full bass. no need or desire to hit even 120s for peaks on bass or mids, i prefer to keep my hearing for the next half of my life!

depending on how deep they are, probably need to sand smooth & repaint to match the original paint. a product called duratex is very close to the textured finish klipsch used on many models.