Dave A

WOW go away for most of a day and it went crazy. Anyway I measure with a B&K 885 and it does not lie and the only time I have not replaced old caps was on my set of MCM 1900's. It was pretty shocking and the capacitance was right on and the ESR was like .004 at the worst. I just soldered them back in and closed it up. I can begin to see why Bob likes the Sonicaps even though I don't want to spend the money on them all the time. ESR on those is so low I cant measure it most of the time and high for them seems to be maybe .002 and I may be remembering it to high. As an aside here I bought a Fluke 117 for general electrical work. Now it has a capacitance reading capability to according to the manual but after seeing it against the B&K I would be afraid to trust it for capacitance and the larger the value the worse it gets. If you think your multi meter is good enough let me assure you it is not. The more I think about it the more I am wondering what those MCM's would sound like with new Sonicaps in them.

They are worth every bit of that and I would not go lower unless you just HAVE to get rid of them quickly. Someone will buy at that price if you wait.

Well we don't know if it is a pretty AA without pictures do we ;D

If you read the quote from B&C they tell you that phase plugs are there in all those drivers. They are meant to be used in different horns so the phase plug has to be an integral part of the driver and not the horn. This thing Klipsch has made can only work with itself so they could put the phase plug on the horn lens or the driver and chose to put it on the horn lens. This K-77 is the strange one here compared to most drivers on the market so don't get hung up on the idea that this K-77 is the only way or the best way because most drivers are not made like this.

Wouldn't work for what? I don't understand your comment.

I have a good test meter and all the old oil filled caps I have measured may be OK for capacitance but the ESR is bad to very bad. Older film caps I have tested the vast majority have higher ESR than new production ones do. I have never regretted recapping crossovers and do so every time I get a set of speakers in to work on. I only work on things from say the mid 90's and older though. Re-capping is the cheapest significant upgrade you can make on those Fortes if you can do it yourself and don't buy expensive caps.

The K-77 is designed to work only with that driver/lens combination. Drivers like the DE10,110 120 and APT50 incorporate phase plugs internally and independent of the horn lens because they are meant to be used with differing horn lenses. From B&C " Standard features in our compression drivers include copper shorting rings, FEA optimized phase plugs, and edge-wound copper-clad aluminum voice coil wire. "

HAH he said nothing about a sub though did he :D

OK I could live with that horn but the bass is seriously lacking according to the spec sheet..

No I have not. Looking at the specs though I think I would rather have the 456 or 942. That double woofer bass bin which digs MUCH deeper has superb presence and the horns aren't slouches either. I like my organ music to shake things on my table top if I want to. Plus twice the watts output if that matters.

How true and he does not care if his TDS wrecks the league since his future is secure. About time for multi million dollar a year crybabies to find out most watchers happen to have regard for the USA and face serious paycuts as a result of their disdain for their fans and the police that are protecting them..

I have no idea where that $200.00 drop came from because my price has not changed. Where are you seeing such a thing?

I you ever get the chance to get a set of KP-450's or even better KP-456's or KPT-942's the footprint is not much more than say La Scala. The 456 and 942 are both better than anything that will reasonably fit into your house except perhaps Jubilees. IF you can find them they are normally bargains especially compared to what the better vintage will cost. A set of these will ruin you for life and you ask anyone who has these what they think.

He has some of them not all of them His toys belonged to other forum members before he got them and they still have toys that might even be bigger.

I am priced very close to Bob's DE120 setup but mine will allow you to use many more drivers if you care to experiment. I also will sell just the horn lenses and you can use your own drivers IF they fit in the restricted space typical for the K-77's. JBL and Beyma make 1 3/8 18tpi drivers for instance small enough to work here and I am sure there are others to. The B&C DE110 will also fit and is smaller than the DE120 if Klipsch crowded the top of the cabinet with their cutout. One KHorn buyer did have this problem on one of his cabinets where Klipsch was not consistent in their pre CNC days. On the larger tweeter lens set you can use a TON of drivers. The DE110, DE120, DE10 and anything with a two hole 1/4 20 3" diameter bolt hole pattern and the 1 3/8 18 threaded snout drivers which is the same size as the K-55-V for instance. A lot of guys liked the ASD 1001 for their Cornscalla builds and the two hole or threaded snout versions will both fit here. Faital, Eminence, Beyma and B&C all make drivers that will fit these although I am certain not all will work right for this horn size. The discovery process is going on to find the good ones as we speak.

Jim has the finest set of KP-301's I have ever seen and you could swear they were new just taken out of the box.

Those fuse values reflect what the factory did at the request of techs and installers so they would not have to climb up in the air and fix things when the sound guys exceeded correct levels. Their assumption was the correct way to protect speakers was to do so with electronic protection downstream from the speakers and put a grossly oversized fuse in there which was never supposed to be needed anyway. JW is right.

OK Jim tell us why you are asking for fuse information. Inquiring minds want to know🤣

If there is anyone in Middle Tennessee that has the new stuff I can measure the motorboard cutouts on? Accurate dimensions if you have them and can send them to me would be even better.

Finding a used one that matches exactly is hard. Klipsch will sell you a new one but it will have a rubber surround and not a cloth like the old one and side by side the difference is pretty glaring. EBay is probably your best bet and be prepared to wait. Simply Speakers sells a recone kit that looks like the old one does and I have used one before with success. Make sure you get the weights out of the old passive to put into the new one. 3.5oz if I remember right.

Hey for anyone interested the K-79 larger tweeter road show setup is back and available. The next guy who had asked for them has not responded to emails so they are ready for the net inquiring mind. Yes Dave says they sound really good but what does he know right? Find out for yourself as hearing is believing.

Hey I thought all you guys did was buy a point and shoot and hit print. You mean there is more to it then that?? In the don't get me started category how dumb is it that smart iPhone people don't realize you can turn the phone 90 degrees and actual have more than a silly little strip of image t look at.

Thanks and I was hoping I did not sound harsh but I thought it was time to explain some things about how objects are created and the cost of doing so.

Anything can be done but for a one of type unit it will not be cheap. I have to figure out what you want, then we trade drawings and measurements, then I have to do a 3D CAD part so I can then create a machining plan and THEN finally get around to cutting. I am going to go over somethings here not because I am whining or complaining but I want to explain some basics about what is involved here. Most have absolutely no idea how things get done. If I were to have charged someone for the tweeter designs it would have been AT LEAST appx $650.00 as I look back to see the billable time spent. Then the CAM plan for machining a one of part would be another $150.00. Then there is machine time and that and material would amount to about $90.00. People who are not in the industry have no idea of costs. The design program is typically $7,000.00 for a good one and then another $1,500.00 each year for support and new updates. Three axis machining programs worth a hoot are at least $6,500 to start off with and quickly go up from there and yes they are another $1,500 per year to stay current. Then there is the mill you cut them on which in my case was right at $96,000.00 and the shop to put that in and the endmills and holders for them to cut the parts and it never ends. Vices and holders add another 7 or 8 G when you are done tooling up. Also this aerodynamic thing sounds good but I still have to have a way to tie all the pieces together and be able to bolt the clamp plate to the horn which means it will protrude beyond the footprint of the driver itself. I see that someone has stuck a tweeter in the mid horn lens but that seems contrary to producing good sound. This kind of thing can consume far more time than people realize who do not do this for a living. It would cost just to even figure out what can be done and to do the CAD file and that would be up front and not refundable. I run across this in business and companies want you to figure things out for free and then they decide not to do it and there you are. I made a rule some time back that if you are not willing to pay for things like this up front you are not serious. I don't intend for this to sound harsh it's just that you have no idea how many times I get asked to spend what can be days for free and these little things can easily do that by the time we go back and forth. Its just like I was asked recently here on the forum to design something that would adapt a DE120 to a KP-600 manifold. Now I did this because I was curious to do the same thing for my MCM 1900. But what about the guy who wanted the time? Oh that's nice I like that he says. He goes on and states I am thinking though that I am going to sell these off and so I don't know if I am interested or not. I will get back to you if I decide I am. This is how 90% plus of these things turn out when your time is given for free and that is why I respectfully decline this little item unless you are serious and we will figure out what it will cost before I do anything. Or you can buy a horn lens kit and use some little angle brackets like that picture shows and do it that way. The horn lens bolt holes to the motorboard should work fine for that. I am thinking of something free standing for these horn lenses to sit on top of things where they can be moved around for time alignment. If I decide to do this I absorb all the development costs hoping for sales. Before I do anything further though I am going to wait and see how these existing horns lens kits do. I would like for them to sell and lead to other things because I enjoy tinkering with speakers but we will see.

Something you need to try while I watch. A pepper rated at 1,500,000 scoville units average heat and tops out at about 2,250,000.