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Dave A

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Everything posted by Dave A

  1. OK just curious. I know you are new here but why don't you fill out your system specs under your profile?
  2. DATS V3 and a UMike should get you the T&S if you have a sample to measure from. I have not done so yet but have the bits and pieces to do so as I have been told this works. One day I will get around to trying it all out. On this whole share your data stuff. I have people actually ask me to share my design and cut files for my tweeters like I would actually give them away. The answer is NO and if you really want it figure out how to do it on your dime and time. I don't blame Roy one bit for not sharing. The audio world seems to be full of people who can't figure out how to do things and then want answers handed to them by those who do figure it out. Sales shtick is always crap to some degree and go hear in person in someones house on their setup. I would trust dealers like Cory who don't pull fast ones and will share how they got to what you hear.
  3. My experience has been that the HF will make or break your setup faster then anything else. When I was dialing in a resistor L-Pad for a two way on the HF side of things merely going an additional estimated .5 DB in attenuation took sound from really great to ho hum. It does not take much to be over or under the sweet spot. My favorite two way from Klipsch is the KPT-456. Meant for main or side fill sound and not this THX movie crap they were just musical with no harsh edges. When I got some KPT-904's with OEM crossovers they were shrill and unpleasant and only an L-Pad fixed that problem. I am sure someone with greater knowledge of crossovers could tell you what to do better then I can. Looking into a MINI DSP also and if my Super MWM is any indication going active will get you better results then passive though a PITA to learn and implement.
  4. For me on some KPT-904's where the K-510 + DE75 drivers were too hot I used an L-Pad to tame them down. Never thought about using a movie screen.
  5. Many of you do not know my wife had a stroke on 5/2 this year and so lots of projects were delayed or on hold. I have a ton of wood to work with and much of it I have never cut before. Curly Ash, Curly spalted hard Maple, and some big old Walnut Live edge slabs I might just turn into tables. Really nice crotch wood in them. I have some White Oak with spalting also. And then there is some Cherry that I started on some time ago and just finished today. Kind of tells you where my mind is at with the rod stock holes all the way through to the front side because I left the wrong "Z" level in there. You cut one wrong you cut them both wrong and act like it was a plan. Anyway I thought the wood grain was interesting the closer you look and the picture does not do it justice. I have some curly Cherry I have to glue together to get pieces thick enough to make a set of these but they look like they will have real character to them. I enjoy working with wood as the variables are considerable. The downside is learning the idiosyncrasies of each wood type with no one here to show me how to avoid mistakes. Here is an example of what I mean. I use a 3" face mill to cut the front and back sides and on these freestanders where the width is 7" there are three left to right passes to face them off with. It kind of picks the wood out a bit and you can see where the pass edges are. It requires a fair amount of sanding to make those go away. Probably reducing the step over to maybe 40% of the cutter width will stop this and I will find out soon. I also wonder if changing the direction of cut 90 degrees would end the problem. Crossing the wood grain and not paralleling the wood grain.
  6. All these older speakers are fun to play with but not many stick around long. I have a set of KP-301's right now I keep debating selling or keeping but most just move on. I just sold a set of K-22's and wont try finding more. If the KP-480 works well with them good and if not as you say they make good monitors.
  7. I bought these to fix up and sell and do not intend to keep them. Now as they were stock they were mid range only and lows and highs cut off. The recapping did not hurt the sound but also did not make a real improvement. Adding an SMAHL helped the HF side of things. I figured these would go to a band somewhere just like the one I bought these from and to be used as monitors. The bass is cut off like you say. I have a set of Type E crossovers coming in and I might just stick those in and see how they do. I also wondered about the Super Heresy port idea and need to get with Claude and see what he thinks. I have a single KP-480 I am thinking of using with this set to see how that does. The slants are musical withing their limited range now but just no bass slam to speak of.
  8. Tried a new wood the other day and thought the result was interesting enough to post on. The chunk of Ebony came covered in wax so it was hard to really see what the wood looked like. Anyway here it is with a rubdown of Watco Rejuvenating oil on it. I am kind of leaning towards using wipe on Polyurethane from now on because it brings the beauty of wood out more without making it as dark as the Watco oil seems to.
  9. It could be. I can't tell with the fiberglass on it though.
  10. OK I will bite. Just how do capacitors on a crossover manage to do time alignment?
  11. Medwin school right ? ;D Hey at least my solder work is nice.
  12. Melted wax and no it is not a problem.
  13. OK would those go in after the L-Pad?
  14. I have been working on a passive crossover for a two way for some time now and the major problem was the mismatch of driver efficiencies. Along the way I was using the common crossover calculators online and I got to thinking about how the OEM crossovers are often rounded off to even numbers both in capacitance and resistance. The calculators would give a number like say 4.56 UF or 5.17ohm and I thought "OK why not try to do just this and not round things off". So I built the 2nd order Linkwitz–Riley and an L-Pad doing just this and the results were really good. It took up to three capacitors to drill in as close as I could to calculated values as nothing out there was dead on like I wanted. With the resistors it was different and I found some really close without having to add some together. The end result is that the precise calculated values gave a much better sound then rounding off to the nearest whole number value. Not an expert by any means but I know what my ears tell me and has anyone else tried this?
  15. I have to admit to being interested in this idea too or at least enough to try them once and see.
  16. That's what is cool about Claude's comments and threads. He has actually owned most of what he talks about so has actual experience to speak from. He also documents things and has actual pictures which are always of interest.
  17. You do realize those MCM-1900 piezo tweeter sets were from the 80's and were most definitely not the chinese "Speaker Piezoelectric Tweeter Loudspeaker 150W Ceramic Buzzer TrR5" right? So how do these sound since you reference them as I assume you would not reference something you have not heard.
  18. A suggestion with a valid example done by the poster would lend credibility to the piezo idea. Otherwise just more words.
  19. Well the 402 horn and that Celestion driver are far superior to any part of a K-Horn and yield more accurate sound reproduction with more presence.
  20. MCM 1900's for me too. Jubes La Scalas Belles K-horns are all anemic sounding compared to those 1900's. You can get deeper bass with other Klipsch but none as profoundly moving as those MWM bins. The 1900's have presence you quite simply can't believe until you hear them and then you can never unhear them. You have been warned. If space and WAF was the key factor Chorus I's for me.
  21. So when are you going to bring those tube amps down for audition?
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