winglet

Alnico K77 vs K77M.... From this thread..

Appears to be a phenolic diaphragm from the pics. Klipsch doesn't sell them any more as far as I know. Post a WTB ad in the garage sale section and I'm sure someone will have a used one for short money. Fleabay is the other option. I'd stay clear of any of the inexpensive aftermarket ones though. You could upgrade them both to the titanium diaphragms from Klipsch directly or from other popular sources online. Dig around the forums. Many like the upgrade, myself included.

According to ALK, the AA network is sending full power to both the squawker and tweeter between 5k-6k. And the k77M is 5-6bd more sensitive than the k77F over that range...

Are you sure you can only fit a 3” or shallower speaker? Odd depth for a ceiling cavity.

Are you sure about that mid driver being a k52 and not a k66? Actually, it looks like you’ve used the KI362 specs to describe all those KP362 componants.

Their ‘training center’ is an little old brick building on main st.. Probably turn the ac off every night all summer. I wouldn’t worry if they sound good. If anything, use it to negotiate lower. How do you feel about the oak color tho? Not nearly as nice as your walnut heresy and chorus.

Bought them from the original owner and that’s what he told me. Picked up a velodyne uld15 from him as well and the woofer surround was completely rotted and cracked out. Assume it’s environmental effects on both.

My forte ii looked similar when I got them 8 years ago. Look the same now. Sound as they should and I like the grilles on, so I’ve never touched them. They lived their life in FL, and at least the last couple years in a garage before the owners wife made him get rid of them. I assume it’s just from the humidity.

There are others here that know WAY more about networks than I do, but that’s the way I understand it since the tweeter is immediately after the filter. The bandpass (lowpass portion) that is added for ti mid diaphrams for the k53 is similar. It’s the same componants for all autoformers as it is located just prior to the k53.

I would think you can just use the same tweeter filter that is used in the HIE or AA if you want the same crossover frequency and slope as those (two 2uF and one .245uH). It sits between the autoformer and the tweeter and should still only "see" just the k77 impedance.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1138593970139918/?hoisted=false&ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Ad61e5e40-add8-426a-9e14-8facdc2cc9c0

K-75-K ~99db (Not attenuated in Forte I/II) K-79-K ~101db (Not attenuated in KLF20/30 Chorus I/II)

Simply speakers has a recone kit for these in stock. https://www.simplyspeakers.com/klipsch-speaker-passive-radiator-recone-kit-rk-klpkd15.html I’ve never used the kit, but somewhere on here is a writeup about doing the repair.

Same scammer posting all over New England CL with similar ads

He’s parting a pair of cf-2 as well it looks like

Saw these while poking around. Don’t know the seller and don’t know if the price is good. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1569299020197839/?hoisted=false&ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Aea58263a-678a-4500-8e2f-e60dde81a0e2

End of the day, if the Heresy III is the sound you want, and the 70th walnut is the look you like, paying a few hundred dollar premium for it isn't that big a deal. Personally, I'd be looking toward the Forte III for not much more money.

You’ve probably done so already, but.. Checked the wiring to the bad driver? Swapped the bad driver into the good speaker and still dead? Measured the resistance of the bad voice coil?

K61-k is the klipsch designation for the k53K driver intended to be used in k602 horn combo. Any k53K driver will bolt on to your existing horn. Good read posted by Hudsonvalley half way down

Agreed. Had a rc62 ii between a pair of forte ii for years. Great speaker, but did not blend well. I use a KLF-C7 now with crites Ti diaphragm between those same forte ii with DE10 drivers on pht-409 horns (klipsch tractrix tweeter horn) and it blends MUCH better. I wouldn't use heresy I components in a custom center either. My heresy with k55 don't sound similar to the forte at all. Heresy 1.5 or II mid would be a better match. Custom build with a chorus/forte/quartet mid horn and LMAHL tweeter would be the best match aside from another chorus ii.

I think your issue is the cable box. Quick google search says it can output dd 5.1 on the hdmi and/or optical. Dig around the cisco setup menus and see if you can configure the audio out to allow this. https://www.avsforum.com/threads/cisco-8742-and-dd-5-1.1405001/

Is the content you’re watching on the cable box being broadcast in more than 2 channels? Avr can’t input 5.1 if the cable box is only sending it 2.0 data. It can however use it’s processing to ‘create’ the additional channels. Also, I remember reading some cable boxes required using optical to transmit 5.1. Not sure this is still the case with newer boxes. I get connecting the cable box directly to the tv and not the avr for simplicity. I have one of my parents tvs set up this way because the cable box has hdmi handshake issues when connected thru the avr. If your avr and tv support hdmi arc tho, you do not need a splitter.

I’m not understanding why you need a hdmi splitter. Does your tv and avr support arc (audio return channel)? If so, you can connect the avr to the hdmi arc input on the tv. Your cable box to any other tv input. The hdmi between the tv and avr will carry any audio input to the tv (your cable box or over the air broadcasts for example) back to the avr. Or.. If it was working fine before any changes, just return to that setup and use the tv digital optical out connected to the avr. It is more than capable of transmitting 5.1 dolby digital format. Only the highest data rate formats require hdmi (atmos and dts hd for example I think).

Looks like SF Bay area according to his previous posts

Chorus II from the factory only had the copper Klipsch logo on the grille. They were not badged with a scripted "name" logo like the newer heritage speakers. You'd have to look aftermarket if that is the style you want.