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robert_kc

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About robert_kc

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  1. I'd like to learn more. I thought I had all of the classical on-line sites bookmarked, but I'd like to hear about more. Can you provide a link to the seller? Is the download uncompromised DTS-HD MA 5.0 audio and 1080p video? Here's another Blu-ray box set that I think is excellent: Jean Sibelius: Complete Symphonies There are other Blu-ray box sets of symphonies, plus of course many Blu-ray opera and ballet. I've downloaded some 24bit/192kHz FLAC classical recordings from HDTracks, but last time I checked they're audio only (no video), and stereo (no multi-channel). I've seen a few DSD multi-channel classical downloads on other sites, but I haven't tried any.
  2. Where can I download the following? Rafael Frühbeck de Burgos Danish NSO Ludwig van Beethoven: Symphonies Nos. 1–9 Joaquín Rodrigo: Concierto de Aranjuez Hector Berlioz: Symphonie fantastique, Op. 14 Richard Strauss: Eine Alpensinfonie (An Alpine Symphony), Op. 64, TrV 233 My point is that the availability of downloads and streaming depends on genre.
  3. That depends on the genre of music. For the classical music and opera I love, Blu-ray audio/video discs featuring DTS-HD MA 5.1 surround-sound are my favorite consumer deliverable. Ultra HD Blu-ray classical recordings are slowly becoming available. (Pure Audio Blu-ray and SACD featuring surround-sound are my second choices.) The state-of-the-art audio/video recordings of classical music that I like are not available via streaming. Also, it's been a few years since I investigated streaming movies, but last time I checked there was a small fraction of titles available via streaming compared with discs. Similar to music, it depends on the genre of movies you like. Moreover, IME, discs are much more reliable than streaming, and provide uncompromised audio and video quality.
  4. For the classical music I love, high-quality hi-res audio/video recordings are commonly available. Many operas, ballet, and a growing number of classical concerts are available on Blu-ray, featuring DTS-HD MA 5.1. Blu-ray audio/video (featuring hi-res surround-sound and hi-def video) is my favorite way to enjoy classical music. A few classical recordings are available on Ultra HD Blu-ray. Provenance of the recording is critical – i.e., modern recordings that were captured and mastered as hi-res. If you haven’t experienced classical music via Blu-ray, IMO the following is a very enjoyable high-quality set of all Beethoven symphonies (plus 3 other works) for a very reasonable price. (I bought the deluxe box set for approximately $50. Apparently the Blu-rays discs are now also available with “non-deluxe packaging”.) Rafael Frühbeck de Burgos Danish NSO Ludwig van Beethoven: Symphonies Nos. 1–9 Joaquín Rodrigo: Concierto de Aranjuez Hector Berlioz: Symphonie fantastique, Op. 14 Richard Strauss: Eine Alpensinfonie (An Alpine Symphony), Op. 64, TrV 233 I can make other Blu-ray audio/video classical and opera recommendations if anyone is interested.
  5. OP: Please help me understand. Does "F&F" mean "Friends & Family"? Am I correct that with F&F the buyer would be wiring you money with no commitment from you that you will deliver any product or service - i.e., they're just sending money to a "friend or family member" - and they have no recourse if you don't deliver any product or service? Unless I'm missing something, wouldn't it make more sense for you to send the buyer a PayPal invoice, clearly stating what you're selling (including product condition), and PayPal buyer protections would therefore govern? From PayPal's web site: "If you don't receive the item that you ordered, or it shows up significantly different from its description, you may qualify for Purchase Protection, and we'll reimburse you for the full purchase price plus any original shipping costs, subject to terms and limitations. If you are charged for a transaction that you didn't make, let us know within 60 days, and we've got you covered. What’s covered with PayPal Purchase Protection · You bought a book, but received a DVD · You bought an item described as “new,” but received something that was used · You purchased 3 items, but only received 2 · The item was damaged during shipping · The item is missing major parts (that the seller didn’t report) · You purchased an item described as authentic, but received a knockoff instead What’s not covered with PayPal Purchase Protection · Real estate · Motorized vehicles · Custom-made goods that are significantly not as described · Industrial machinery · Prepaid cards · Items that violate our policies · Anything bought in person (not over the internet) · Send Money transactions to friends or family · Disputes filed more than 180 days after the purchase for item not received and significantly not as described claims · Unauthorized transaction claims reported more than 60 days after the transaction date of the transaction · Items that were described accurately by the seller" ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- FWIW … unless I’m missing something … I’d never buy something from a seller who asked me to just send them money via “F&F”. According to UCC, and long-standing principles of business, don’t you as a seller have an obligation to deliver to the buyer the product as advertised, and isn’t the buyer entitled to protections if you don’t deliver? If you are honest and thorough in describing and documenting (e.g., photos) the item’s condition, and you ship with delivery confirmation, then you will be protected (as much as possible) from false claims. You can somewhat mitigate your risk of loss due to shipping damage via insurance (if you meet the shipper’s packaging standards), but if you ship the item you are responsible for delivering the item to the buyer's address in the same condition as advertised. (Make certain that the shipping box is stamped with the strength rating. FYI, I bought a box from FedEx that didn't have the stamp, and my insurance claim was denied.)
  6. Hey @Codyred, I just realized that we shared some thoughts in another thread: You've obviously done extensive research on modern integrated amps, and I'm certain they are good products. I wish I could hear them all. I'm a fan of vintage tube amps. Additionally, I have one modern single-ended-pentode amp that was hand-built by Dennis Had called Inspire “Fire Bottle” SE Stereo Tube Amplifier HO. I drive it directly from an Oppo UDP-205. (No pre-amp – I’m using the Oppo's built-in "pre-amp" functionality.) With 6L6GC, my Inspire amp is probably putting out 8 wpc, which isn't quite enough for large scale orchestral music, but sounds good with jazz and big band - especially if augmented by powered subwoofers connected to the Oppo (which off-loads the power-hungry bass from the main amp and speakers). My only point is that for music that doesn't have a lot of dynamic range, in an average size room, at moderate listening levels, a lot of power isn't needed for the RF-7II. OTOH, for the large-scale classical music that I like, a PP tube amp with 30 wpc plus dual powered subs will deliver a near-concert-hall-experience for large scale classical music and opera. Of course, in a large room, and/or at “ear bleed” loudness, exponentially more power would be needed. Where do you live? Perhaps it would be useful for you to hear your music on someone else’s RF-7IIs. I encourage you to listen to a variety of tube amps with the RF-7II. (FWIW, I think 6L6GC sound good with RF-7II ...)
  7. OP: $64k question: What genre(s) of music do you listen to?
  8. My favorite integrated amps with my RF-7II: Scott 296 Scott 272 Fisher KX-200 P.S. I have other integrated amps that I like, but they're in other systems (i.e., not paired with the RF-7II): Fisher X-1000 Scott 299C Scott 299B Altec 353A
  9. Kathleen Battle singing "Lovers" from The House of Flying Daggers.
  10. I discovered this movie because Kathleen Battle sings the song whose leitmotif is featured throughout the movie. I think this movie would surprise a lot of people - it's not really about martial arts. This scene where we first see The Echo Game is pretty cool - Mei can't resist the challenge of The Echo Game, and it becomes apparent that she is not the "poor helpless blind girl" she pretends to be. Zhang Ziyi is gorgeous ...
  11. I think there’s been good discussion in this thread. I’ll be interested in hearing the OP’s results if he tries a different amp. FWIW, following are my thoughts. OP: You say that you listen to “classic jazz from the 50's”. It seems to me that this is one of the least demanding music genres for a hi-fi system to recreate. Is your goal to feel your body being assaulted by low frequencies (i.e., “kick your chest”), or recreate in your home a live performance of 1950s era jazz? FWIW, I’ve never experienced “natural music” (i.e., classical, chamber music, jazz, big band) “kicking me in the chest”. I attend more than 20 live classical music performances each year, including large-scale orchestral music - and I’m in awe of the power of large-scale orchestral music. However, large scale orchestral music doesn’t involve “kicking me in the chest” – even though a bass drum (and six double bass) in the symphony hall can be very powerful. As a point of reference, I’ve heard live performances in a world-class symphony hall of Mahler Symphony 2, Saint-Saëns Symphony No. 3 (Organ Symphony), Beethoven Symphony 9, Brahms German Requiem, and many other large-scale powerful works that greatly exceed the power of a jazz quartet. I suggest that if you want to challenge your hi-fi system with powerful music, get a hi-res recording (e.g., 24bit/192kHz FLAC download) of Bach’s Toccata and Fugue in D minor and crank it up to the volume level of a live performance from a large pipe organ (e.g., the Wanamaker organ). In terms of demand on a hi-fi system, “classic jazz from the 50's” is far less demanding in comparison. (No disrespect intended towards you by calling your music wimpy. 😊 ) $64k question: Do you attend live performances of the music you like? Does this form your benchmark for music reproduced via your home hi-fi system? How does your RF-7II perform in comparison to your recollection of live jazz? FWIW, this is how I think you should judge the sound from your home hi-fi system. FYI, there are people on this forum who use Klipschorn with 3wpc SET amps to listen to jazz. RF-7II are 4dB less sensitive, so – painting in broad brush strokes - double the power required. In an average size room at sane listening volumes, I’d say that the RF-7II can deliver a realistic simulacrum of a live jazz performance with a tube amp rated at 10wpc, because there’s little dynamic range to jazz. (I don’t listen to jazz, but my RF-7II can successfully recreate big-band music with an 8wpc single-ended-pentode tube amp. For large-scale orchestral music (which has far greater dynamic range), a 30wpc tube amp works well.) If you’re dissatisfied with the bass from RF-7II for jazz, then something seems amiss with your hi-fi system, or you have a problem with room modes (try moving your listening position backwards or forwards), or … candidly … perhaps the problem is with your expectations. (No offense intended.) In light of the fact that RF-7II are – relatively speaking - “big boy” speakers, they should provide ample acoustic power in an average size room for 1950s era jazz without worrying about a “high current” amp. My advice: get a 6L6GC based PP tube amp with tone controls, and you can enjoy natural timbre, and tailor the frequency balance to your liking. OTOH, a subwoofer is useful for hi-res recordings of large-scale orchestral music, and pipe organ, particularly in a large room, and/or if you listen at “ear-bleed” listening volumes. And, multiple subwoofers are indicated if you want to “feel” the concussion of explosions in a Blu-ray movie “slamming against your body” - or feel the room shake during a buffalo stampede or earthquake scene in a movie. Where do you live? Perhaps it would be useful for you to hear your music on someone else’s RF-7IIs that are “dialed in”. Bottom line: If you’re happy with your RF-7II with a subwoofer, why not just “crank up” your sub? Your thoughts? P.S. In my basement system I have no problems with dynamics or deep bass, for any music. Front, center, and left speakers are Klipsch RF-7 II. A single rear speaker is a Klipsch RF-7. Subwoofers: SVS SB16-Ultra, Klipsch R-115SW. Source: Oppo UDP-205. I have multiple tube amps in this system. If I use a Scott 296 to drive the left and right channels, and a Fisher KX-200 (or Scott 272) to drive the center and (single) rear channel, there is dynamic range and frequency range approaching symphony hall experience. No problems with dynamics, or deep bass, for any genre of music. As I mentioned above, the subwoofers are useful for hi-res recordings of large-scale orchestral music, and pipe organ.
  12. OP: What genres of music do you listen to? Is the same system used for movies? I listen to classical music and opera. I use RF-7II (left, center, and right) with tube amps. IME, RF-7II deliver fairly powerful bass when driven with a 30wpc tube amp. However, I use subwoofers (SVS SB16-Ultra and Klipsch R-115SW), crossed-over via an Oppo UDP-205, in order to deliver the full dynamic range, and frequency range, of a large-scale symphony orchestra. I believe that each person must define their goals for their hi-fi system (or home theater system). Is your goal to reproduce the natural timbre – and the full dynamic range and frequency range - of orchestral instruments at realistic sound levels (i.e., concert hall levels) in an average size room? For a string quartet? For Mahler’s Symphony No. 2? Do you want to reproduce the lowest pedal notes of a pipe organ? Different genres of music place significantly different demands on a hi-fi system. For movies, do you want to feel the impact of explosions, and the rumble of a buffalo stampede? In an average size room, at reasonable sound levels, IME for most music RF-7II perform OK without a sub. However, large powered subs help deliver the full impact of hi-res recordings (e.g., SACD, Blu-ray) of music that contains significant dynamic range, and significant low frequencies. I don’t think a different amp “with more grunt” is the answer. I’d stick with a main amp that delivers “musical sound quality” (IMO a tube amp), and if you want full dynamics and full frequency range, then off-load the main amp and speakers with a crossover before the amp (e.g., Oppo universal player), and use large powered subs. IME, this works great for hi-res recordings of large-scale music, and for movies with LFE (low-frequency effects).
  13. LOL. I should have suggested that you first turn down the volume on the sub. Try a Y cable from the DAC to feed the pre-amp and sub .... but turn down the volume on the sub first ... 😊 If it sounds good ... enjoy the music ... P.S. This configuration will work best if the subwoofer has a remote volume control. You might also try the Y cable between the pre-amp and amp, so that the sub's volume level tracks with the volume level of the main speakers. (FWIW, I use Oppo players, which have "bass management", with configurable crossover parameters for the sub, and an RCA line-level sub connection, and a remote volume control. I also have volume control on most of my subs.)
  14. What is the source component? Have you proven that the subwoofer works OK? If so, what was the configuration (i.e., how were components connected) when the sub worked OK? Have you tried disconnecting the preamp from the DAC, and connecting the sub directly to the DAC? If this works, then perhaps use a Y-cable from the DAC feeding the sub and pre-amp??? We're all rooting for you ...
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